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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > auto transmission hard down shift



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      10-02-2013, 01:51 AM   #89
betaruce
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so I test together with BMW mechanics (but not the same mechanics who help me last visit)
the real jolt only happen for ~2-3 times within 10+ times of car stopping
the mechanics think it is not very disturbing and quite minor, and he probably will just do some maintainence and computer stuff
i asked him about solenoid and obviously he did not commit anything and very likely he is not gonna change it.....

also, he think that since my car mileage is low (less than 28k km since 2006), the gearbox run in may not be so good....

Last edited by betaruce; 10-02-2013 at 08:28 AM..
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      12-27-2013, 05:53 PM   #90
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Similar problem?

I'm wondering if my car has the same issue ('07 335i, 82K, had the mechatronic sleeve fixed under warranty several years ago due to a leak). It's always shifted smoothly and I've never had problems with jerky downshifts when coming to a stop. Here's what happens:

1) Get the car on the open road (think LA to Vegas) and drive it 75+ for a good hour or so, this ensures the transmission is at high temperature.
2) When going ~65 or so, push the gas pedal down about halfway which will trigger a 6->4 downshift.
3) BANG! The whole car jolts and you check the rearview mirror to make sure there isn't a pile of broken gears behind you.

Alternatively, from a constant 60+ mph you can trigger a manual downshift with the steering wheel paddles and you'll get a similar jolt, just not as bad because you don't have a lot of engine power behind it.

It's done this for a while but it seems to be getting worse. It will NOT exhibit this problem unless the transmission is at high temperature. If I drive it for 20 minutes at the typical 65-75 speeds around here, it behaves normally. Has to be like ~80mph for a long time to get it hot first.

Time for a fluid change? Maybe this solenoid thing is to blame? Does old transmission fluid's viscosity change significantly when it heats up?
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      12-27-2013, 11:15 PM   #91
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I cannot say for sure, but it sounds like you (might) have the same issue. The rough shifting in my car only started after the transmission was warmed up. Like you, it got really bad when it was "hot".

Quote:
Originally Posted by andy92782 View Post
I'm wondering if my car has the same issue ('07 335i, 82K, had the mechatronic sleeve fixed under warranty several years ago due to a leak). It's always shifted smoothly and I've never had problems with jerky downshifts when coming to a stop. Here's what happens:

1) Get the car on the open road (think LA to Vegas) and drive it 75+ for a good hour or so, this ensures the transmission is at high temperature.
2) When going ~65 or so, push the gas pedal down about halfway which will trigger a 6->4 downshift.
3) BANG! The whole car jolts and you check the rearview mirror to make sure there isn't a pile of broken gears behind you.

Alternatively, from a constant 60+ mph you can trigger a manual downshift with the steering wheel paddles and you'll get a similar jolt, just not as bad because you don't have a lot of engine power behind it.

It's done this for a while but it seems to be getting worse. It will NOT exhibit this problem unless the transmission is at high temperature. If I drive it for 20 minutes at the typical 65-75 speeds around here, it behaves normally. Has to be like ~80mph for a long time to get it hot first.

Time for a fluid change? Maybe this solenoid thing is to blame? Does old transmission fluid's viscosity change significantly when it heats up?
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      12-28-2013, 02:02 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigsman View Post
I cannot say for sure, but it sounds like you (might) have the same issue. The rough shifting in my car only started after the transmission was warmed up. Like you, it got really bad when it was "hot".
After re-reading this thread I'm pretty bought in to your bum solenoid theory. I'm gonna run it by my local BMW indy to see what he thinks. Too bad it's still not a cheap fix even if you do all the labor yourself.
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      01-27-2014, 09:51 AM   #93
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I am experiencing this same jolt when idling to a stop in my 07 530i. The tech says the tranny software upgrade corrected the issue but I am sure once it gets hot it might still have the same problem.
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      01-30-2014, 11:32 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPKinAZ View Post
I am experiencing this same jolt when idling to a stop in my 07 530i. The tech says the tranny software upgrade corrected the issue but I am sure once it gets hot it might still have the same problem.
I have not heard of the software update ever fixing this issue. Although BMW claims this is a fix for the problem, I am quite skeptical.
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      02-02-2014, 11:28 AM   #95
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After reading through all your research and information I informed the BWM Tech before I even brought it in. The end result from them was the transmission upgrade. We will see, if it doesnt work I will try to get them to correct it but if they refuse I guess I am stuck attempting to do it myself.
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      02-04-2014, 12:38 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPKinAZ View Post
After reading through all your research and information I informed the BWM Tech before I even brought it in. The end result from them was the transmission upgrade. We will see, if it doesnt work I will try to get them to correct it but if they refuse I guess I am stuck attempting to do it myself.
Let me know if you need some help. I am in the Phoenix (east valley) area and more than willing to give you a hand with the job.
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      02-04-2014, 08:35 AM   #97
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Awesome, thanks Zigsman! I am in Tempe myself. I will shoot you a PM for sure if I need any help/info.
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      02-04-2014, 10:43 AM   #98
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Originally Posted by Verbatim View Post
You have a nice dealership. I wouldn't be complaining. The fact that they pointed out the problem and admitted it before you pointed it out goes to show that they care.
Its a known fact that <21 year olds don't get rental cars period.
Next time you go, take your parents or a friend, or manage a ride home. I know it sounds like crap, but you don't have a choice. I have the same problem as you, maybe have your parents take the car in instead.
Correction, less than 25 years old. I'm 23 and I can't get one. It's actually quite annoying at this point. I pay my bills just like anyone else, yet I can't enjoy the same luxury of getting a loaner (which would be useful for my bi-monthly service appointments on my 335 )
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      02-04-2014, 11:01 AM   #99
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try shifting the gears yourself, I never liked AT.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chaosticbry View Post
bmw has tried to fix my transmission and its under warranty, it was shifting hard going up from gears 1-3 and then when i stopped completely the car would jolt from 2nd to 1st. i took it in and they said they fixed the problem. (they just reset the car)
I drove my car off the lot and for the next week it was all fine. but now my car is starting to do the same thinks again. and its slowly getting worse.

any idea what it could be? the car is going back to the dealer tomorrow.
and what happens if they cant fix it?
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      03-27-2014, 02:08 PM   #100
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are the solenoids covered under CPO?
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      03-27-2014, 03:36 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petelazro View Post
are the solenoids covered under CPO?
If I had to guess, I'd say no. But, don't take my word, talk to your dealer.
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      11-14-2014, 09:49 AM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigsman View Post

The logical steps to take in order are:

1. Reset adaptations
2. Update software
3. Complete transmission service
4. Replace transmission seal adapter and mechatronics seal with solenoid replacement
By transmission seal adapter are you referring to the mechatronics seal adapter? And by mechatronics seal are you referring to the seal sleeve? I've seen these two parts used and wasn't sure if they are the same. Thanks.
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      11-14-2014, 02:54 PM   #103
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There are two seals/adapters. One sits between the mechatronics and the transmission body, this is the mechatronic seal adapter. The second one is the sealing sleeve, it's a tube looking adapter that the electrical plug connects to. This is the sleeve that is prone to leaking and is located on the front of the transmission. Hope this helps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 335driver07 View Post
By transmission seal adapter are you referring to the mechatronics seal adapter? And by mechatronics seal are you referring to the seal sleeve? I've seen these two parts used and wasn't sure if they are the same. Thanks.
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      11-22-2014, 10:26 PM   #104
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Zigs I wasn't having any jolts when coming to a stop but now I am. Also today for the first time the 40-30 downshift was rough. I wasn't braking, just letting the car coast to the light and damn. Is this how your issues started? Also has this improved the quickness of your shifts? I find the shifts in my 335i to be slower than my Corolla. :X

I don't even feel them in that car and it's quick.

Also are you still running well? How many miles on your car? And how many miles have you put on since these changes you made? Which fluid do you run ?
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      11-22-2014, 10:41 PM   #105
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I bought my car with 118k on it and it had the rough shift issue. I had never owned a BMW prior to my 330, so I had no idea if it was normal or not, I just knew it was annoying. After surfing the forums, I found that it was not normal, it was a problem. So, I did the service and solenoid replacement at about 120k. I also reset the adaption values at the same time. The transmission shifted extremely smooth, and quickly after the maintenance. I have about 140k on the car now and it still shifts quickly and smoothly. When I did the service, I used all ZF parts and fluid...all OEM from ZF directly. Maybe the gasket and filter was aftermarket...I don't remember. But, I've had no problems since the service. I've also purchased two additional e90s since then...great cars, love them all!


Quote:
Originally Posted by ThatRWD View Post
Zigs I wasn't having any jolts when coming to a stop but now I am. Also today for the first time the 40-30 downshift was rough. I wasn't braking, just letting the car coast to the light and damn. Is this how your issues started? Also has this improved the quickness of your shifts? I find the shifts in my 335i to be slower than my Corolla. :X

I don't even feel them in that car and it's quick.

Also are you still running well? How many miles on your car? And how many miles have you put on since these changes you made? Which fluid do you run ?
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      11-22-2014, 11:00 PM   #106
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Which E90s? Did they have any similar problems?
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      11-22-2014, 11:13 PM   #107
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Just got my car's 6 speed auto flashed to alpina B3.

Now the transmission is quick and smooth like DCT or CVT.
The rev match, shift is just unbelievable.

If you hate your 6 speed auto, get it flash by someone in the coding section for $80 something, or let them remote control your laptop to do it for you for 110$ with additional programming features.
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      11-22-2014, 11:44 PM   #108
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I've got the cable and I've been meaning to do it, just need to get the turbos done by the stealers so i can say fuck you to them and stick with Indy's.

If I can get the transmission to be quick and as smooth as toyota/lexus this car will become near perfect to me after the M3 suspension swap.
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      11-22-2014, 11:49 PM   #109
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I have 2 2006 325i's and an 06 330i

Quote:
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Which E90s? Did they have any similar problems?
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      03-09-2015, 09:59 PM   #110
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Zigsman,
Are you still out there? Are you sure the solenoid change will take care of the issue? I saw your in the Phoenix area. Are you a mechanic? Do you have a shop? I'd like a little assurance. I'd even be willing to drive up there from San Diego as I'm going nuts putting money into this money pit of a car.
I have a 2007 335i with 69K miles. It is doing the same hard down shift from 2nd to 1st. I already dump a couple grand in getting the intake walnut blasted because it was misfiring. Now the dealer wants 8K for a new trany. Of course since there's no codes given they don't know what to do, so they just say put a new trany in it!
Are these parts you have the links too good parts and not made in china crap?
Or is it better to get them from BMW?
I know... a lot of questions...that's why going nuts!
Your help is greatly appreciated.
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