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      03-09-2015, 10:39 PM   #111
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Zigsman,
Are you still out there? Are you sure the solenoid change will take care of the issue? I saw your in the Phoenix area. Are you a mechanic? Do you have a shop? I'd like a little assurance. I'd even be willing to drive up there from San Diego as I'm going nuts putting money into this money pit of a car.
I have a 2007 335i with 69K miles. It is doing the same hard down shift from 2nd to 1st. I already dump a couple grand in getting the intake walnut blasted because it was misfiring. Now the dealer wants 8K for a new trany. Of course since there's no codes given they don't know what to do, so they just say put a new trany in it!
Are these parts you have the links too good parts and not made in china crap?
Or is it better to get them from BMW?
I know... a lot of questions...that's why going nuts!
Your help is greatly appreciated.
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      03-13-2015, 10:47 PM   #112
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Any body else out there have any experience with the hard down shifting from 2nd to 1st? Any other repairs that fixed the problem?
My 07 335i does it when cold, warm or hot. No difference.
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      03-14-2015, 12:47 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going nuts View Post
Zigsman,
Are you still out there? Are you sure the solenoid change will take care of the issue? I saw your in the Phoenix area. Are you a mechanic? Do you have a shop? I'd like a little assurance. I'd even be willing to drive up there from San Diego as I'm going nuts putting money into this money pit of a car.
I have a 2007 335i with 69K miles. It is doing the same hard down shift from 2nd to 1st. I already dump a couple grand in getting the intake walnut blasted because it was misfiring. Now the dealer wants 8K for a new trany. Of course since there's no codes given they don't know what to do, so they just say put a new trany in it!
Are these parts you have the links too good parts and not made in china crap?
Or is it better to get them from BMW?
I know... a lot of questions...that's why going nuts!
Your help is greatly appreciated.

Yep, I'm still out here in cyberspace!

Dealers have no idea how to fix anything anymore. I got the same answer from both Dealers here in the Phoenix area (replace the transmission). I knew it was B.S.!

I am not an ASE mechanic, nor do I own a shop. However, I have an extensive background in maintenance, including vehicles. I spent almost a decade in aviation as a helicopter mechanic, so I know my way around a vehicle and how to troubleshoot. I am an enthusiast and hobbyist. I own three E90's, one of which is a project car that I purchased in non-working order. I do all the work on all of my cars and consult with friends and acquaintances who own shops when need be.

I can not say, FOR SURE, that the problem you are having is identical to the problem I had. Nor can I say, FOR SURE, that my fix will work for you as well. However, what I do know, is that nobody in the Phoenix area, or on these forums, knew what the issue was or how to fix it. Through troubleshooting and knowing how systems work, I deduced that it was the solenoids because those are what control the transmission pressure and when/how to shift. I figured that one of them was "gummed up" and getting stuck. It's kind of like having gum stuck to your shoe. It holds on for awhile, then, suddenly breaks free. That is what was happening with the solenoid. So, it would hesitate when down shifting, then, would break free and slam into gear instead of gradually and smoothly shifting.

So, I replaced all the solenoids and haven't looked back. That was at 120k miles. I now have 145k and still no issues. The links for the parts are from the manufacturer's website (ZF Transmissions), they are not Chinese or cheap knock-offs. You cannot buy the parts from BMW because they do not manufacture them, nor do they have a "BMW" brand transmission. BMW won't even work on the transmissions, they just recommend replacement.

If you are looking at a 5k transmission replacement, it might be worth the few hundred dollar investment to try this first. Just an idea... Just make sure that you knock everything out while you are in there, as I recommended in the original post. That way, you avoid future issues down the road, such as a leak from the adapter or broken down fluid and poor performance as a result. FYI, BMW will not service your transmission either because it is a "closed" transmission.
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      05-22-2015, 03:08 PM   #114
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zigsman,

I am here in Tucson. I have the same issue. I tried to follow the link to purchase the solenoids, but they were no longer in stock. Where is the cheapest place to buy them currently. Also I would be interested in bringing my 530i up to phoenix to have you change them out. Are you interested?
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      05-22-2015, 03:35 PM   #115
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Hello there,
Seems I have the same issue for a while, I drive Bmw 335i e90 07 and I have the latest transmission update, also I changed all the seals, pan, filter, fluid and I installed the zip kit from sonnax! The problem still there: rough shift, harsh downshift and jolt 2to1, cold/warm/hot! So if somebody can help me I really appreciate! This car drive me crazy!
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      05-23-2015, 12:26 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nirvanabob View Post
Hello there,
Seems I have the same issue for a while, I drive Bmw 335i e90 07 and I have the latest transmission update, also I changed all the seals, pan, filter, fluid and I installed the zip kit from sonnax! The problem still there: rough shift, harsh downshift and jolt 2to1, cold/warm/hot! So if somebody can help me I really appreciate! This car drive me crazy!

If you ask me.... I'd say your next step would be to replace the solenoids...
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      05-23-2015, 12:28 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyz View Post
zigsman,

I am here in Tucson. I have the same issue. I tried to follow the link to purchase the solenoids, but they were no longer in stock. Where is the cheapest place to buy them currently. Also I would be interested in bringing my 530i up to phoenix to have you change them out. Are you interested?
The only place that sells the parts for the transmission is ZF, as far as I am aware. I could be wrong.... If you call them directly you might have better luck. I sent you a PM regarding getting the work done.
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      05-23-2015, 01:24 AM   #118
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      05-23-2015, 02:55 AM   #119
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You are talking about driving in -D- ? I find it strange that your cars shift to 1st in general. Mine always stays in 2nd except I hit the shift paddle. Then it holds 1st gear for 3-4 seconds and imediatedly shifts back to 2nd, even when going strong uphills with walking speed. If I want to keep 1st I have to rest my thump on the paddle.
I really don't believe in a tranny issue. Rather a broken wire that goes to the shifter stick is what comes to my mind. Something must be telling the tranny to shift down. Like I wrote above - It doesn't do it on itself.

Weird shifting behavior can often be cured by replacing the MAF sensor.
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      05-23-2015, 03:13 AM   #120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiteblue View Post
You are talking about driving in -D- ? I find it strange that your cars shift to 1st in general. Mine always stays in 2nd except I hit the shift paddle. Then it holds 1st gear for 3-4 seconds and imediatedly shifts back to 2nd, even when going strong uphills with walking speed. If I want to keep 1st I have to rest my thump on the paddle.
I really don't believe in a tranny issue. Rather a broken wire that goes to the shifter stick is what comes to my mind. Something must be telling the tranny to shift down. Like I wrote above - It doesn't do it on itself.

Weird shifting behavior can often be cured by replacing the MAF sensor.
I drive a 2006 330i (E90) automatic, and when in "D", it always downshifts into 1st when I come to a stop. If I move into sport mode "S" while stopped, it show's "1" for first gear...and when I accelerate, there is no question it is in first. And, I verified with MY car that it was a transmission issue and not a MAF issue before I did the work. While sitting at a stop and in sport mode, when I shifted between 1 - 2, either upshifting or downshifting manually (stopped), there was an extremely rough jolt of the entire car as it lurched and thunked into gear after hesitating. After replacing solenoids...smooth as glass ever since. So, although MAF can cause idle, general running issues, and shifting issues, in my case it was the transmission. But, I cannot speak for everyone.
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      07-17-2015, 01:21 AM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zigsman View Post
Yep, I'm still out here in cyberspace!

Dealers have no idea how to fix anything anymore. I got the same answer from both Dealers here in the Phoenix area (replace the transmission). I knew it was B.S.!

I am not an ASE mechanic, nor do I own a shop. However, I have an extensive background in maintenance, including vehicles. I spent almost a decade in aviation as a helicopter mechanic, so I know my way around a vehicle and how to troubleshoot. I am an enthusiast and hobbyist. I own three E90's, one of which is a project car that I purchased in non-working order. I do all the work on all of my cars and consult with friends and acquaintances who own shops when need be.

I can not say, FOR SURE, that the problem you are having is identical to the problem I had. Nor can I say, FOR SURE, that my fix will work for you as well. However, what I do know, is that nobody in the Phoenix area, or on these forums, knew what the issue was or how to fix it. Through troubleshooting and knowing how systems work, I deduced that it was the solenoids because those are what control the transmission pressure and when/how to shift. I figured that one of them was "gummed up" and getting stuck. It's kind of like having gum stuck to your shoe. It holds on for awhile, then, suddenly breaks free. That is what was happening with the solenoid. So, it would hesitate when down shifting, then, would break free and slam into gear instead of gradually and smoothly shifting.

So, I replaced all the solenoids and haven't looked back. That was at 120k miles. I now have 145k and still no issues. The links for the parts are from the manufacturer's website (ZF Transmissions), they are not Chinese or cheap knock-offs. You cannot buy the parts from BMW because they do not manufacture them, nor do they have a "BMW" brand transmission. BMW won't even work on the transmissions, they just recommend replacement.

If you are looking at a 5k transmission replacement, it might be worth the few hundred dollar investment to try this first. Just an idea... Just make sure that you knock everything out while you are in there, as I recommended in the original post. That way, you avoid future issues down the road, such as a leak from the adapter or broken down fluid and poor performance as a result. FYI, BMW will not service your transmission either because it is a "closed" transmission.
I own a 2006 BMW 325i and I have a similar situation. Car jerks while coming to a full stop while in D mode. While driving in manual it does not jerk when coming to a full stop as the gear goes only till M2. But when shifted from M2 to M1 it jerks forward. From all the posts above the symptoms are same pointing to the fact most likely its a solenoid issue. Replacing solenoid will solve the problem for the rough transmission. Is there anything else I need to change or repair to make sure there is no hard downshift? Or changing solenoid should be sufficient ?
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      07-17-2015, 02:19 AM   #122
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This all sounds like a bad tranny. I've seen my friend's 535i with the same exact issues. He replaced the transmission and all is well
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      07-17-2015, 03:18 AM   #123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xtreme122 View Post
I own a 2006 BMW 325i and I have a similar situation. Car jerks while coming to a full stop while in D mode. While driving in manual it does not jerk when coming to a full stop as the gear goes only till M2. But when shifted from M2 to M1 it jerks forward. From all the posts above the symptoms are same pointing to the fact most likely its a solenoid issue. Replacing solenoid will solve the problem for the rough transmission. Is there anything else I need to change or repair to make sure there is no hard downshift? Or changing solenoid should be sufficient ?
You should purchase a solenoid kit, not individual solenoids. And this solved my problem. Yes, replacing your transmission will also fix the problem, but at a much higher cost. If you choose to replace the solenoids, be sure to complete a transmission service as well, and replace both the seal adapter and the mechatronics seal at the same time.
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      07-17-2015, 10:43 AM   #124
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      10-15-2015, 12:37 PM   #125
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Tranny jerk

Hey Zigs,

Looking for your expert advice here. My 2006 BMW 330i (auto transmission) has a bump/jerk while in “D”, right as the car comes to a stop. Took to BMW stealership, they “upgraded the software”. Upgrade didn’t work as the car was doing the same thing before I even drove out of their service bay. Took to an Indy shop, they rebuilt transmission (new mechatronics unit and rebuilt torque converter). The car still jerked at stop. I took back to Indy shop, they said maybe it was a bad valve body and put yet another valve body and solenoids in. After they replaced they said it's still doing it and that maybe a solution is to reset the adaptations but it may come back after it re-learns.
I've noticed when the car is in “DS” mode, it does NOT jerk at a stop. I seems to me that the car does not downshift to 1st gear when in “DS” mode and starts from 2nd gear. In “Manual” mode when coming to a stop and I do NOT manually downshift, the car will downshift itself but only to 2nd gear (with no jerk since its not going to 1st) and takes off in 2nd gear in “M” mode. When stopped in manual mode and I shift the car from 2nd to 1st, I get the jerk. Seems like the jerk is coming from the shift from 2nd to 1st.

Do you have any insight you can share, so I can get pointed in the right direction to fixing this problem? Thanks!!
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      10-15-2015, 01:57 PM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by al330 View Post
Hey Zigs,

Looking for your expert advice here. My 2006 BMW 330i (auto transmission) has a bump/jerk while in “D”, right as the car comes to a stop. Took to BMW stealership, they “upgraded the software”. Upgrade didn’t work as the car was doing the same thing before I even drove out of their service bay. Took to an Indy shop, they rebuilt transmission (new mechatronics unit and rebuilt torque converter). The car still jerked at stop. I took back to Indy shop, they said maybe it was a bad valve body and put yet another valve body and solenoids in. After they replaced they said it's still doing it and that maybe a solution is to reset the adaptations but it may come back after it re-learns.
I've noticed when the car is in “DS” mode, it does NOT jerk at a stop. I seems to me that the car does not downshift to 1st gear when in “DS” mode and starts from 2nd gear. In “Manual” mode when coming to a stop and I do NOT manually downshift, the car will downshift itself but only to 2nd gear (with no jerk since its not going to 1st) and takes off in 2nd gear in “M” mode. When stopped in manual mode and I shift the car from 2nd to 1st, I get the jerk. Seems like the jerk is coming from the shift from 2nd to 1st.

Do you have any insight you can share, so I can get pointed in the right direction to fixing this problem? Thanks!!
I would first find out EXACTLY what they replaced/rebuilt in your transmission and ensure they also replaced the transmission seal adapter, mechatronics seal, oil pan/filter, and replaced the fluid. It is also important that the "learning adaptations" are reset so your transmission can "start over". I find it odd that after a mechatronics rebuild that you are still having this issue, unless they did not replace ALL of the solenoids. I have 150k on my car now and it still shifts like new (about 25k on tranny after this fix).

If your tranny was actually rebuilt, to include the mechatronics (valve body), it is basically a new transmission and there would be NO reason why it wouldn't operate as such. Even if they did not reset the adaptations, it should still shift smoother.

Assuming they did replace all of the solenoids, the next thing I would do is ensure they reset the adaptations and go from there.

Where do you live? I'd be more than happy to take a look if you're in my area.
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      10-15-2015, 02:52 PM   #127
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I'm also in "solenoids replacement" club.
If somebody needs DIY I can write it down. I did some pictures plus I have ZF manual
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      10-15-2015, 04:26 PM   #128
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Thanks for the reply Zig. I am not sure if they did the seals. The shop says they did the valve body, solenoids and separator plate. I am up in Denver, if I was closer I would totally have you take a look. I will have the adaptations reset and see if that does the trick. Thanks again for the help!!
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      10-16-2015, 08:37 PM   #129
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Hey guys,
I'm wondering if I have the same problem with my 2010 535i M Sport. To me it feels like I've hit a pothole or something. I it's always been when I'm slowing down, but I can't be certain what gears (definitely in the 1-3 range though). I've had it happen in sport or regular mode, but never in manual mode.

Does that sound similar to what you guys are talking about? I don't have any lurching, just a hard hit like I mentioned.

Thanks!

Sam
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      10-17-2015, 03:13 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slenser View Post
Hey guys,
I'm wondering if I have the same problem with my 2010 535i M Sport. To me it feels like I've hit a pothole or something. I it's always been when I'm slowing down, but I can't be certain what gears (definitely in the 1-3 range though). I've had it happen in sport or regular mode, but never in manual mode.

Does that sound similar to what you guys are talking about? I don't have any lurching, just a hard hit like I mentioned.

Thanks!

Sam
I'm reluctant to say "yes", but it is a possibility. Mine would do it in D and M modes, but not DS. The reason was that in DS mode, the car does not shift into 1st gear when coming to a stop as it does in D mode. So, I could be at a stop light, go into manual (M) mode, and manually shift between 1 and 2. On the downshift to 1, the car would physically jolt! (even while stopped). Try to isolate the gear. Drive it in manual mode and between all gears (up and down). Once you think you found it, shift between those two gears multiple times to verify. This is how you will know if you have a bad solenoid.

You might just need a drain/service, you may not need a new solenoid if this does not happen in manual mode.
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      10-17-2015, 03:13 PM   #131
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Hmmm...

First of all, thank you for responding. I've posted in the E60 forums and N54tech with no response yet.

I'll try testing it to see if I can recreate it. I haven't been able to do it; it's been completely random aside of the fact it always happens when I'm slowing down. I know if I can duplicate it I can find a solution.

I do have an aftermarket warranty that will hopefully cover this, but I don't want to start taking it to the dealer until I can show them the problem.

Do you know of most BMW shops charge to update the transmission software?
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      10-17-2015, 04:09 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slenser View Post
Hmmm...

First of all, thank you for responding. I've posted in the E60 forums and N54tech with no response yet.

I'll try testing it to see if I can recreate it. I haven't been able to do it; it's been completely random aside of the fact it always happens when I'm slowing down. I know if I can duplicate it I can find a solution.

I do have an aftermarket warranty that will hopefully cover this, but I don't want to start taking it to the dealer until I can show them the problem.

Do you know of most BMW shops charge to update the transmission software?
In my experience, most dealers charge $120/hr coding fee, some charge a 2hr min. You might be better off finding a good indy shop in your area to do that for you. It is normally about 1/2 the cost.
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