[Feldburg]

Took my car into the emissions center and I didn't fail but I couldn't test because my o2 sensor and cat monitors aren't ready. Hooked a scan tool up, there are no codes being set. Then I decided to watch o2 voltages and lambda. My upstream(eq lambda) o2's did fluctuate but stayed above one more often than not. Downstream(V) both sat at around .73 . Haven't actually tested at the o2 sensors themselves because it's more work than I've had time for at the moment. The car has been driven long enough for all the drive cycles to have met. Any ideas? Oh and my car is an 08 335xi

[Jeff@TopGearSolutions]

Is the vehicle stock, if not, what modifications and tunes are on it?

[Feldburg]

Yeah powertrain wise it's all stock

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Feldburg

Yeah powertrain wise it's all stock

Have you recently deleted any codes?
Is it saying it failed emission or not ready?
If it failed and you are stock, your cars might be damaged
if it is saying not ready then you should ask for the readiness drive cycle

[Feldburg]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

Have you recently deleted any codes?
Is it saying it failed emission or not ready?
If it failed and you are stock, your cars might be damaged
if it is saying not ready then you should ask for the readiness drive cycle

I answered all those questions already

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Feldburg

I answered all those questions already

I had to do the drive cycle 3 times in order for it to work

[shadow191]

If your car is stock, you just need to drive it more. It sometimes takes more than 1 drive cycle or a lot more miles than you'd think. I'm not sure what the difference is between the emissions scan and a typical OBD scanner, but a couple of times now my scanner shows all monitors ready, and then the testing facility will tell me that 1 or 2 are still not ready. I typically then just drive it some more and it passes.

[335NJ]

Mine reached readiness when I drove highway mixed with stop and go, atleast a 20 minute cruise on the highway btw (consistent RPM). And I tried to get as many cycles of cold starts to driving to full op temp, back to cold start again numerous times.

[Feldburg]

Thanks guys while the drive cycle not being met could be the case, I have a feeling it's not I'm a delivery driver so stop and go is my speciality and I've driven many times on the highway. Also I looked on my scan tool and it keeps popping up with those two monitors not ready. Finally all of this still doesn't explain why my downstreams( after the cat) are reading rich. Just because a drive cycle is not met doesn't mean that that should be happening. The fact that my cat and o2 sensors aren't ready and the o2 sensors after the cat are reading kinda high makes me think there is something else

[ferocity02]

When was the last time you cleared codes?

If you only do short stop and go trips, that might explain why the monitors haven't set. The drive cycle has some steady high-speed parts. Even if you do the drive cycle exactly not all of the monitors may become ready. Most people don't have the roads to follow the drive cycle exactly anyways. I've found that in my normal driving, which includes city/highway, the monitors will set after several trips and heat cycles.

As for the O2 sensor readings, what are you using to monitor them?

[shadow191]

If there was an actual issue with the cat or O2, it should throw a code. FWIW, the portion of the drive cycle that sets to cat and O2 is done between 40 and 60mph. So if you spend all your time over that, it isn't setting. The actual procedure calls for something like 15-20 minutes at 40-60mph and you can't go over 3k rpm. That is what took me the longest to set, I live in the city so the low speed stuff was done quickly. But staying under 60mph on the highway here basically means you get tailgated even in the right lane.

[Feldburg]

Cleared codes probably going on 3 weeks now. And like I said the drive cycle could still be a problem but I'll try getting a little more highway driving even tho I've had plenty. I was using a snap on solus

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Feldburg

Cleared codes probably going on 3 weeks now. And like I said the drive cycle could still be a problem but I'll try getting a little more highway driving even tho I've had plenty. I was using a snap on solus

Which drive cycle are u using ?
The one that the Smog place gave me did not work for my car ... I used another one i found online (from a company that makes Catless DP )

[Feldburg]

There's one I found on this forum that I reference but I've never actually followed one to the t because it's almost impossible nor have I ever had to do that with any of my other cars... I just drive a lot and normally works out.

[scottp999]

Interesting. Every time I have disconnected the battery or cleared codes the EVAP readiness is always the last one to set as ready by a long shot.

I see you picked up a 2008 in Feb 2014. Have you looked in the ECU box? We have seen people buy a "stock" car before and then be shocked to find a piggy back tune in the ECU box that is set on the stock map. A couple possibilities, Procede piggy back with stock map and Canclear set to on, which will never let the cats get readiness, comparable code clearing setting with the JB3/JB4 piggyback tune. A wired in stand-alone downpipe fix to the ecu harness would not do it as it would either allow readiness or be set wrong and you would get codes. What you described could be Canclear, which constantly clears codes and keeps the dash light from coming on but will never allow readiness. Good luck!

[135Pats]

Originally Posted by scottp999

Interesting. Every time I have disconnected the battery or cleared codes the EVAP readiness is always the last one to set as ready by a long shot.

Crazy, my experience was the polar opposite. A "complete" cold start and putz around, the EVAP monitors were content.

The O2 was a different story, that took probably 20-30 miles of driving.

Passing emissions is a finicky thing - buying the $20 OBD scanner you rec'd way back was the quickest solution. Knowing exactly what the issue is, is very helpful (who woulda thunk it ).

[Feldburg]

I have not looked in the ecu box but I will just in case however I have had a check engine light come on for a misfire problem that has been fixed so I don't think canclear is a problem

[scottp999]

Originally Posted by Feldburg

I have not looked in the ecu box but I will just in case however I have had a check engine light come on for a misfire problem that has been fixed so I don't think canclear is a problem

Excellent, give it a quick check. That's the thing about canclear is it specifically only clears o2 related codes and not misfires or others.

From the user manual:

CANClear (On (1)/Off (0))
○ The CANclear feature, when turned ON, constantly checks for diagnostic codes typically associated with running additional modifications (higher boost, catless downpipes, exhaust systems, etc,.) If a code is triggered, it is automatically cleared. Furthermore, it also prevents dealerships from seeing any “Tuner related” codes that could otherwise compromise your warranty.
○ Note: If any serious, non-tuner codes are triggered, the CANclear feature is paused. This means that no performance-related code (misfire, fuel pump, etc,.) will ever be suppressed.

[Feldburg]

Sweet I'll look tomorrow during the day. However I haven't dug much into this car at all. Where is the ecu box located exactly and what exactly am I lookin for thanks

[scottp999]

Here is an install video that will show how to get into the ecu box and what to look for. Opening the box is at about 1 min 30 seconds in (may take 15 minutes to get to that point the 1st time). At 4:24 you see what the procede box looks like. If you find a piggy back box, don't start messing with it, just take a picture and post what you found. You would definitely want to disconnect the negative battery terminal before you would want to reverse the install, if you find one and want to remove it. Another option at that point would be to install the user software, and communicate with the device to turn off the canclear setting. If nothing is there then at least you have eliminated the possibility. Take your time with the process. If you go too fast the 1st time this car is notorious for rigid/brittle plastic parts that like to snap off with any force. If you don't want to tackle it yourself, find someone in the regional form that has already done it a few times to help.