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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY E90 N54 Valve Cover Gasket



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      02-11-2018, 08:46 AM   #331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tys90 View Post
Does anyone know the part number for the bolts holding down the wiring harness? The two pointed out in the left side of this photo:

I'm also looking for this part number. I've spent an hour combing through the ETK and I cannot find it.
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      02-11-2018, 05:31 PM   #332
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First off thanks! This diy is awesome! I just wanted to point out on the 08 335i (n54) the bolts are steel, not aluminum. I ended up replacing the whole valve cover since I was under the impression I had to replace the bolts (cheapest I found was $210).
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      02-28-2018, 02:41 AM   #333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mthr33 View Post
First off thanks! This diy is awesome! I just wanted to point out on the 08 335i (n54) the bolts are steel, not aluminum. I ended up replacing the whole valve cover since I was under the impression I had to replace the bolts (cheapest I found was $210).
Where did you find it for $210?
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      03-09-2018, 07:53 PM   #334
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Two of the bolts snapped when removing the valve cover. I drilled one through but still can't get the holow shell out. Do I need to retap it?
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      03-15-2018, 07:57 PM   #335
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Originally Posted by robc1976 View Post
you are perfectly fine!
My mechanic done it for 12N.m. Should I adjust it back?
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      03-28-2018, 09:41 PM   #336
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Is this guide the same for the e91? I also need to replace my valve cover gasket but I noticed this is for the E90. Is it the same or are there differences?

Thanks in advance
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      03-29-2018, 12:22 AM   #337
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Originally Posted by harrimann View Post
Is this guide the same for the e91? I also need to replace my valve cover gasket but I noticed this is for the E90. Is it the same or are there differences?

Thanks in advance
If it's an N54 engine, then Yes.
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      04-01-2018, 09:24 AM   #338
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335i valve cover gasket leak; great DIY!

Thank you for a great DIY.

My car is 11yrs old with 118k miles. Started noticing smoke coming from cowl when parked and idling. Rubber gasket was very hard and brittle. Small crack in valve cover on rear exhaust side. Oil in one spark plug hole.

Notes:
Placed front wheels on ramps to raise front of car. Brings stuff a little closer as you will be bending over the engine compartment for a long time. Saved my back.

Removed the vacuum bottles and the radiator expansion tank.

Took opportunity to install ECS oil catch can. Nice high quality product.

Also took opportunity to replace all vacuum hoses with 3.5 mm silicone hose. The ones on the exhaust side were pretty hard and brittle. Front turbo wastegate actuator nipple was difficult. Had to chamfer end of hose to facilitate starting hose on nipple.

The three 10mm bolts with the extension for the ground nuts required the use of a half inch drive extension socket. 1/4 and 3/8 drive sockets would not clear the extension.

Removed both sides of the strut tower braces. Just for more room.

I spent a whole day doing all the work. About eight hours.

Hopefully good for another ten years!
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      04-05-2018, 08:08 AM   #339
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Bit nervous about cleaning the old gasket material away
How do you do this without getting dirt and debris from the mating surfaces from falling into the motor??
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      04-05-2018, 09:05 AM   #340
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Originally Posted by Socket View Post
Bit nervous about cleaning the old gasket material away
How do you do this without getting dirt and debris from the mating surfaces from falling into the motor??
I put old shirts along the motor side and use Scotch Brite pad to clean the surface. Have done many without problems.
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      04-05-2018, 10:02 AM   #341
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Originally Posted by feuer View Post
I put old shirts along the motor side and use Scotch Brite pad to clean the surface. Have done many without problems.
Thanks again
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      04-13-2018, 03:10 PM   #342
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Is there a particular pattern I need to torque the bolts in? Doing mine now.
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      04-13-2018, 03:17 PM   #343
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GEOS07335i View Post
Is there a particular pattern I need to torque the bolts in? Doing mine now.
EDIT: Look at post #7 in this thread.

Something like this (pic is for a Ford but the logic is the same):



Key is to alternately balance force in any torquing situation.

Just don't over torque...I used an inch-lb torque wrench to make sure I didn't overdo it.
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Last edited by AndyW; 04-13-2018 at 03:22 PM. Reason: New data
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      04-21-2018, 03:08 PM   #344
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Did any of you use anything on the bolt threads when reinstalling (anti-seize, thread locker, etc)?
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      04-22-2018, 09:09 AM   #345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
EDIT: Look at post #7 in this thread.

Something like this (pic is for a Ford but the logic is the same):



Key is to alternately balance force in any torquing situation.

Just don't over torque...I used an inch-lb torque wrench to make sure I didn't overdo it.
I replaced my VCG last weekend. I also replaced the breather hose and used the RB PCV valve to eliminate any potential PCV issues.

Thanks that's pretty much how I did mine. My Torque wrench was 3/8 to big I didn't trust it. I snugged hand tight and used 1/4 drive 1/4" past snug. So far so good no leaks or stripped bolts.
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      06-07-2018, 06:38 PM   #346
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Question: has anyone replaced the plastic cover with the magnesium cover? I'm at 97k, replacing the valve cover for the 2nd time, and I've seen a few used magnesium covers at local salvage yards . This way, if I have another leak, it's just a gasket replacement vs. the full cover. Thanks in advance!
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      06-16-2018, 09:53 PM   #347
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Thanks OP, great DIY.

I'm quite surprised the valve cover is plastic (made by BMW), is there any aftermarket OEM alternative that produces the valve cover in aluminium?
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      07-19-2018, 11:38 AM   #348
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Interested to know if any other brand for valve cover is recommended.
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