[mweisdorfer]

Updated the LPFP sensor to the new improved version for $40.00. I did not buy the fuel line with it. The new one fits into the old fitting. The new one has a compression fitting vs the old brass one does not. The old one had 164,000 miles on it.

I'm now able to feel confident that I can now pull accurate data from logging on MHD to see what my LPFP is doing at WOT.

It's good at idol being 72 psi and fluctuates like it should. However, under load it drops to 40-44psi at 6500 rpm. This isn't good

My understanding is that 50psi is the absolute lowest it should go at WOT, and that 50psi really is that good to be honest.

I was getting shadow codes for my LPFP when I went WOT; now I'm getting actual codes stating the pressure is too low.

The LPFP is original from 2007 (164,000 miles) So, probably time for a change.

I got a deal for $169.00 for a VDO (OEM supplier) at FCP Euro. I'll have it by Wednesday next week.

[BM3Rrrr]

What made you not choose to upgrade to Fuel-It stage 2 if you don't mind me asking.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Mine is on its way out too I think...but I’m not getting any code yet. It drops to 46 psi under WOT.

I’m gonna limp along a little while longer until I start getting codes. I was hopeful that fcp would put the pump on 4th of July day...but no luck yet.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

Mine is on its way out too I think...but I’m not getting any code yet. It drops to 46 psi under WOT.

I’m gonna limp along a little while longer until I start getting codes. I was hopeful that fcp would put the pump on 4th of July day...but no luck yet.

I think $169.00 might be on sale. Idk for sure but ECS tuning has it for $199.00. So, I'm thinking it might be an on-sale item.

I picked up a tool to open the lid for $17.00 on Amazon. 84% of the ratings were 4 & 5 star.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by BM3Rrrr

What made you not choose to upgrade to Fuel-It stage 2 if you don't mind me asking.

Well, $169 vs $400,00 for starters. Even if I get upgraded turbos in a year let's say, I probably won't go higher than stage 1 turbos. Plus, I saw a DIY, where you can add a stage two for about $135.00 to an an existing "healthy" LPFP. I don't plan on using e85. I can add a stage one fuel pump for about $169, if I need to when I get stage 1 turbos.

[mweisdorfer]

ABN Fuel Pump Module Spanner Wrench, 3/8" to 1/2" Inch Adjustable - Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Audi, Volkswagen (VW), Chrysler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QL6HXJI..._IZkiDbAM64BQ5

[buster84]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

ABN Fuel Pump Module Spanner Wrench, 3/8" to 1/2" Inch Adjustable - Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Audi, Volkswagen (VW), Chrysler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QL6HXJI..._IZkiDbAM64BQ5

If you have a ton of miles or your car was from the east coast you'll need something more precise. I bought that and cut my finger trying to use it and all it would do is jump the tracks since my car was form the upper east coast it saw alot of snow whoch caused the lid has some rust on it.

I used this and it came off the first try super easily. I highly recommend this one to anyone with a pump lid that's never been removed in over 100k miles or a car thats been around alot of snow. I also threw on a new lid too once the old one was removed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015Q1JK0I..._euliDb7914F83

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Yeah I saw that wrench but I’d much rather get the $20 option. My car has only lived in Texas, California, and now Louisiana so I may take a chance on the cheaper wrench...

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

Yeah I saw that wrench but I’d much rather get the $20 option. My car has only lived in Texas, California, and now Louisiana so I may take a chance on the cheaper wrench...

Typically speaking, ECS tuning is lower priced than FCP Euro on most things. FCP Euro is higher, but you get the lifetime warranty. So, I guess that's why I'm saying I think the $169.00 price is probably on sale..

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Good thought...thx...

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Updated the LPFP sensor to the new improved version for $40.00. I did not buy the fuel line with it. The new one fits into the old fitting. The new one has a compression fitting vs the old brass one does not. The old one had 164,000 miles on it.

I'm now able to feel confident that I can now pull accurate data from logging on MHD to see what my LPFP is doing at WOT.

It's good at idol being 72 psi and fluctuates like it should. However, under load it drops to 40-44psi at 6500 rpm. This isn't good

My understanding is that 50psi is the absolute lowest it should go at WOT, and that 50psi really is that good to be honest.

I was getting shadow codes for my LPFP when I went WOT; now I'm getting actual codes stating the pressure is too low.

The LPFP is original from 2007 (164,000 miles) So, probably time for a change.

I got a deal for $169.00 for a VDO (OEM supplier) at FCP Euro. I'll have it by Wednesday next week.

Hey in case it's helpful, the updated line includes a bushing against the block. The issue with the original sensor was that the old fuel line would pick up vibrations that would eventually lead to the lp sensor failing. I did the same as you and replaced just the sensor at first bc it's a much simpler job, and then a couple years later when I had a walnut blast done had them replace the entire line and the sensor again along with it.

[mweisdorfer]

Just following up with my DIY on the LPFP.

I have an 07 335i with a 01/07 born date.

I replaced the fuel sensor with the updated Bosch version for $40.00, minus the updated fuel line. I did this to ensure the data I was reading at WOT & idol was accurate.

I was getting 72psi at idol & 42psi at WOT.

It took me about an hour to change out the LPFP. Several DIY's in YouTube etc.

I bought a VDO (OEM supplier) LPFP from FCP Euro for $169.00.

Getting the various electrical connections fuel lines/ vents etc were not too difficult. I did run the fuel out after disconnecting the connections via starting the car. I then disconnected the battery before opening taking the sealing ring off.

I will say the top of my fuel pump was really, really dirty. Nothing a shop vac, some simple green & some shop towels couldn't handle. I was just really surprised on how filthy this area was.

One thing I will mention that I don't thin I saw/remember from the YouTube videos was that that top of the fuel pump has a lip that must go in a slot at 1:00, in order to seal correctly. So, this will effect how you orientate the bottom of the fuel pump before you press the top down & apply the mental ring.

The $16.00 tool I bought at Amazon worked like a charm.

ABN Fuel Pump Module Spanner Wrench, 3/8" to 1/2" Inch Adjustable - Mercedes-Benz, BMW, Audi, Volkswagen (VW), Chrysler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QL6HXJI..._ogHkDb6HFKNHY

I have a Midwest car, and I'm pretty sure the LPFP has never been changed. I have owned the car since it has had 20,000 miles on it; it now has 164,000.
The key was to use an 18" 1/2 drive, power bar & to not focus on the same set of notches. With two pulls, it was open.

Before starting the car, I reset my adaptations for the Fuel Pressure via MHD.

I now have 82psi at idol.

I will report back after a few pulls and let you know what I'm getting at WOT.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Awesome thx...I was gonna do mine today but I didn’t want to incapacitate my car with a tropical storm making landfall...will save it for next weekend.

[mweisdorfer]

At WOT, I got 79psi.

I do have to go back in there. I think the float got messed up when I put the bottom half in. I filled the tank to the brim & I'm only showing 7/8 of a tank of gas!

Now I gotta wait a week or so. I took the forum & YouTubers advice to work on the pump with less than a 1/4 tank of gas. That was a really good piece of advice.

I won't work on it till I get below a 1/4 tank. Working on it when you have more then that is a mistake.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

At WOT, I got 79psi.

I do have to go back in there. I think the float got messed up when I put the bottom half in. I filled the tank to the brim & I'm only showing 7/8 of a tank of gas!

Now I gotta wait a week or so. I took the forum & YouTubers advice to work on the pump with less than a 1/4 tank of gas. That was a really good piece of advice.

I won't work on it till I get below a 1/4 tank. Working on it when you have more then that is a mistake.

Yeah...I'm at 1/8 tank right now...

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

At WOT, I got 79psi.

I do have to go back in there. I think the float got messed up when I put the bottom half in. I filled the tank to the brim & I'm only showing 7/8 of a tank of gas!

Now I gotta wait a week or so. I took the forum & YouTubers advice to work on the pump with less than a 1/4 tank of gas. That was a really good piece of advice.

I won't work on it till I get below a 1/4 tank. Working on it when you have more then that is a mistake.

Did you get around to fixing the float issue? I'm probably gonna work on this tonight and i'm hoping I don't have the same problem...

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

Did you get around to fixing the float issue? I'm probably gonna work on this tonight and i'm hoping I don't have the same problem...

I made the mistake of filling the tank. So, now I have to wait till I get back down to an 1/8 of a tank again. Maybe by the weekend.

I think it's hung up slightly on the vent hose, or one of the hoses in there. There are 4 hoses. The vent hose is a little bear to get off. The other 3 are easy. The two electrical connections are easy, if you use two small, flat screw drivers. One to push the fitting tab in and one to pry up.

When you open up her up, you'll see why they say to work on it with an 1/8 of a tank of gas!

I did find an alternative to a Walboro stage 2 pump for $299.00 made by spool performance. I'm keeping this in mind in case I need to upgrade when I go to a stage 1/2 turbo.

[Bimmer_Engineer]

Well I got the old pump out after about an hour of messing with it. I decided to give it a rest until tomorrow. Nothing really bad about it...just every step seemed 50% more difficult than for the guy on YouTube...

The ring was a real PITA to get off. I tried a half inch drive and my electric impact which just seemed to make it mad. I finally got it off with a breaker bar...

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

Well I got the old pump out after about an hour of messing with it. I decided to give it a rest until tomorrow. Nothing really bad about it...just every step seemed 50% more difficult than for the guy on YouTube...

The ring was a real PITA to get off. I tried a half inch drive and my electric impact which just seemed to make it mad. I finally got it off with a breaker bar...

Yep, good ole Roman Engineering. The more leverage the better. 😉

[Bimmer_Engineer]

It took an hour to get it out...10 mins to put the new one in. I ran a log afterwards...my fuel pressure is 75+ psi now so that’s good. My throttle closures are better but still not fixed...the search continues...

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

It took an hour to get it out...10 mins to put the new one in. I ran a log afterwards...my fuel pressure is 75+ psi now so that’s good. My throttle closures are better but still not fixed...the search continues...

Went back in today.

The cartridge that holds the float was slightly out. So, the float wasn't going to ever read full tank. I re-inserted the float cartridge, made sure the 4 lines were not going to tangle and or hinder the float at all and re-installed the top lid.

I filled up the tank to the brim. All is well !!!

[techwhiz]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Went back in today.

The cartridge that holds the float was slightly out. So, the float wasn't going to ever read full tank. I re-inserted the float cartridge, made sure the 4 lines were not going to tangle and or hinder the float at all and re-installed the top lid.

I filled up the tank to the brim. All is well !!!

I hate to revive an old thread.
I did both the regulator side and the fuel pump.
It took about 1.5 hours to do the whole job.
I knew the parts were coming so I never put more than 1/2 tank of gas.
I was at 1/8 tank, and yes you want to do this with an empty or close to empty tank.

I bought the expensive spanner.
This is the one FCP carries. Same as Amazon by CTA.
It was the same price so I got it from FCP.
https://smile.amazon.com/CTA-Tools-2...8523516&sr=8-4

I bought the new pump and regulator from FCP.
The lid on the regulator was leaking. It's kind of stupid not to change them both with 200K+ on my car.

I'm still getting codes but it's the HPFP. I'm not seeing anything really above 700. So I can't go WOT or even accelerate fast.
I'm getting 29DC and 2AAF codes.

Anyway, I have the HPFP and from the DIYs I've seen it's about a 2 hour job.
Can't be any worse than the starter job.

Happy New Year!