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Please Help...Car continuing to overheat after 5k in repairs...
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01-13-2018, 02:58 AM | #1 |
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Please Help...Car continuing to overheat after 5k in repairs...
Car is a 2010 335i with 71k miles...
*Stock turbos and HPFP were replaced 3 months ago by BMW Quick backstory: About a month or two ago I was coming home one afternoon and all of a sudden my iDrive triggered an engine temperature warning (yellow code) and then immediately changed to engine overheating (red code) pull over, etc etc So I pulled over and was baffled because I was actually driving slow and had never experienced anything like this before and turned off the car, waited 15 minutes, plugged in my tabled and pulled the codes; I got this: 2EFF-DME Electric Fan self-diagnosis, cleared the code, turned the car back on and everything was good. I didn't see this issue come up again until this past week and it didn't affect anything until now. A few days ago all of a sudden once again the car starts to overheat, wasn't driving hard it just happened. Ok, I follow the same steps as last time and get back on the road. Wake up the next day and the batteries dead..ok? Get a new one, doesn't work, get towed to shop, the replace the following listed below So long story short; this week alone I've had the following replaced and still have problems... water pump thermostat 6 spark plugs (NGK) 6 coils (BMW) 6 injectors (index 12) Fuel it stage 2 LPFP 2 new batteries 4 new tires I'm sure I'm forgetting something, the point is, after all of these repairs my car is still overheating and throwing the following codes: 2EFF-DME Electric Fan self-diagnosis 2EE3-DME Coolant temperature sensor, plausibility: gradient Yesterday Morning- Had injectors replaced and coded, car fired right up and was running strong! Drove 10 minutes down the road to get gas and the car overheated on the way again! This is after water pump and thermostat replaced...Go figure.. Guys who were working on the car say that the fan is shot because it's not turning on/working when they try a few things. Ok, I agree to get a new fan and have it installed within the next few days.. Last night, I drove the car for 15 minutes and it ran fine, like nothing was wrong. Pulled hard and everything, then the fan kicked on high for a minute and then turned off.. it went into a limp mode- reduced power, floored the car but wouldn't accelerate? (didn't throw codes, just reduced power oddly) so I went home and let the car idle in the garage for 10 minutes to see if it would overheat and nothing? (It didn't throw a new code, only the ones mentioned above) but it didn't overheat like it did earlier? Today I turned on the car and the radiator fan instantly kicks on high and stays on. I pull codes and it’s the same two as before. Didn't drive it or leave it on long enough to see what would happen... Now the shop I'm working with says that the fan and sensor are both getting power so it's sounding like that's, not the problem and they need to re-diagnose.. I don't understand... Does anyone have any idea what is causing this or what I should do? This is my daily driver and a huge pain in the ass lately, I just want my car to drive again... I know these cars are prone to problems, but damn man...all in the same 3 days?!?!?
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01-13-2018, 08:43 AM | #2 |
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From experience I would've figured the water pump/thermostat would have been the culprit. But something else obviously....are you able to get the actually engine/coolant temperature when its gives you overheat warning or even monitor the temperature and see how quick it changes or stays he same
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01-13-2018, 08:44 AM | #3 |
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why did you replaced injectors, coils, plugs and lpfp ?
all this is not linked with overheating
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01-13-2018, 12:10 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
As for monitoring temperatures, I haven't been able to get the temp as it's overheating but the other day I connected my tablet via MHD and monitored the values. It was around 225 Fahrenheit and all of a sudden it dropped down to 167 Fahrenheit out of nowhere and stayed there until I took the car back home and parked it..
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01-13-2018, 12:12 PM | #5 |
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You're right, that wasn't directly related but after upgrading to the Fuel-It stage 2 apparently, it sprays more fuel now/performs better which causes me to have 4 misfires in a matter of 15 minutes on the highway so the injectors went out so i had those replaced along with the supporting parts as well
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01-13-2018, 10:54 PM | #7 | ||
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I'm still waiting to hear back from the shop as to when I can have the car re diagnosed and the fan replaced if it even needs to be replaced now? This is a lot of bullshit to deal with in such a short time span
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01-14-2018, 12:52 AM | #8 |
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Current Update
Current update:
So just now I just cranked up my car for the first time today and immediately the radiator fan kicked on like before. No change/nothing different. The actual check engine light was on and I pulled the codes via my tablet/MHD and they were the same two that I've had: 2EFF-DME Electric Fan self diagnosis 2EE3-DME Coolant temperature sensor, plausibility: gradient I then decided to cleared the codes and as soon as it finished, the fan immediately turned off and the car sounded normal for a change. I didn't have a chance to drive the car and see if the codes reappeared and or the fan kicked back on but I found that very strange though and I'll have to test drive the car and see what happens either tonight or in the morning.
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01-14-2018, 07:57 PM | #9 |
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Just replace the Water Pump and Tstat and you will be fine.
been there and done that with the EXACT SAME Diagnostics. but the Fan will spin super high .... on your first drive. Don't risk a coolant leak on the road..... just replace them. |
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01-14-2018, 08:06 PM | #10 | ||
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I already posted above ; all of that's been replaced this past week. Still having the issue.... Replaced Monday: water pump thermostat 6 spark plugs (NGK) 6 coils (BMW) 6 injectors (index 12) Fuel it stage 2 LPFP 2 new batteries 4 new tires
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01-16-2018, 12:57 AM | #12 |
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It wasn't bad
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01-16-2018, 12:59 AM | #13 | |
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Update!!
Quote:
Finally she's running strong again. I drove the shit out of the car on my way home (60 miles) to ensure it was running strong/well. So far so good FINALLY! They fully diagnosed the car, electrical, etc and found the DME fan (as expected) to be the issue. It worked which was weird but after a few minutes it would die and not activate Stage 2 for the A/C, so the best course of action was to replace it and in doing so finally fixed the dreaded issue I've been dealing with the last 7 days. Coolant thermostat sensor was totally fine so this nightmare appears to finally be over..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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01-16-2018, 07:46 AM | #14 |
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01-16-2018, 12:31 PM | #16 | ||
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01-16-2018, 04:54 PM | #17 |
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I think you may still have an intermittent temp sensor issue, either an actually bad sensor or a wiring issue or something.
It's hard to know what's actually going on with so many parts having been replaced at this point, but just having a bad fan often won't make it overheat unless you're idling a lot. It's even possible that it never actually overheated and a bad sensor was just making it think it did. Seeing the temperature drop from 225 to 167 points to that. If it happens again that's where I'd look. |
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01-16-2018, 05:04 PM | #18 | ||
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Hopefully this morning was it's final hiccup and never happens again...
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01-17-2018, 10:18 PM | #19 | |
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I called my local BMW dealer earlier today for the hell of it and they said to replace the sensor it would be $512 not including the $186 diagnosis fee... So around $700 to replace this shit....
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01-17-2018, 10:23 PM | #20 |
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UPDATE:
I knew this was too good to be true... The next morning I leave for work, turn the car on and guess what?! The fan kicks on just like before....What the fuck is going on.... I drove about 2 miles hoping that it will turn off on its own and that this was just a fluke...It doesnt..I pull the codes and of course the coolant temperatur sensor code is there just like before...The fan code is gone however... I clear the code and the FAN TURNS OFF... It also stayed off my entire commute to work (45 miles) and the car drove fine the whole way?? I stayed overnight at work and this morning when I was leaving to come home the same thing happened again...Turned car on, fan kicked on again, drove 500 feet, fan didnt turn off like i had hoped, i clear codes and the FAN TURNED OFF AGAIN and stayed off AGAIN my entire trip home and the car drove fine.... I can't even anymore......
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01-17-2018, 10:26 PM | #21 | |
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I drove home with my tabled connected and monitored the coolant temperater for most of the drive and it didnt jump around like it did the other day. It was consitant (started around 137 degrees and stayed around 220/225 degrees) Like I mentioned before, the shop stated that they tested the coolant sensor and that it was reading fine, but the code i keep getting stays something different.......:mad02 59:
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01-18-2018, 12:25 AM | #22 |
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the wiring to sensor may be damaged and car enable protection measures to cool engine
you need good car electric who can check all wiring between DME and sensor
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