[shrek_pce]

Bought this bugger recently with blown NOX sensor and some other stuff.
Most issues have been addressed but this keeps on popping up. Cold idle is a bit unstable but nothing major concerning this. I have a strong rattle above 2k rpm. Car jupms in the limp mode after like 0,5km of driving and the rattle suddenly stops. When starting warmed up car - nothing happens.


Throws 2A99 code (exhaust cam correlation) + 29CC, 29D0 (misfires - unstable cold idle)

INPA shows - the adaptations of camshafts are at the edge (+10, +11 deg).


Videos below

https://youtu.be/uzE9QuZ3Vvs

https://youtu.be/iOojp6sst3U

Plan to switch sensors and vanos solenoids - to see if the fault code moves to different camshaft. If not, my only suggestion are VANOS units.
Also would be good to check the timing because of the cam adaptation values at the limit.

When the car is warmed up - it drives like a charm.
Thanks for any suggestions.

[N52bigblock]

Sounds like it could be the timing chain, especially with those fault codes. Your N43 engine is really bad for stretching the timing chains. When the chain becomes stretched it starts flapping around (which causes the noise you are probably hearing) causing the plastic guides to break and fall into the sump. Those little bits of guide then block the oil pickup and starve the engine of oil. I would get the timing chain checked straight away. Like yesterday.

[shrek_pce]

Yes, I do understand that.
But why only when the engine is cold...?

I have switched the cam sensors, those adaptation values have changed. No camshaft correlation code though, no limp mode. Rattle still present.

[N52bigblock]

Originally Posted by shrek_pce

Yes, I do understand that.
But why only when the engine is cold...?

I have switched the cam sensors, those adaptation values have changed. No camshaft correlation code though, no limp mode. Rattle still present.

Not sure why the noise goes away when warm. That's just what they do. You could try replacing the timing chain tensioner. BMW brought out a revised tensioner as the old ones were shit. They're not expensive either and 15 mins to fit. I would definitely still get the chain checked though. If it is stretched and it snaps, your complete engine will be fucked, probably beyond repair.

[N52bigblock]

Google N43 and N46 engine rattle and you will see how big the problem is.

[shrek_pce]

Thanks guys.
I understand the problem. However, there are different views on the topic and I would love to diagnose the problem first rather that throwing money on it.

I was told that just swapping the tensioner is not a good idea since the chain could jump a teeth...what do you think?

Will arrange to have that timing checked.

[N52bigblock]

Originally Posted by shrek_pce

Thanks guys.
I understand the problem. However, there are different views on the topic and I would love to diagnose the problem first rather that throwing money on it.

I was told that just swapping the tensioner is not a good idea since the chain could jump a teeth...what do you think?

Will arrange to have that timing checked.

That's why I'm saying to check the chain for stretching. With a noise like the one you have that is the FIRST step in diagnosing especially since the chains are such a big issue. CHECKING the chain. You're not throwing money at it if you're checking things.
I've been a mechanic for 26 years and have replaced loads of these tensioners. I have NEVER had one jump teeth. If you don't know what your doing it would be possible. My advice would be to take it to BMW and have them check the chain. They have a special tool that screws in where the tensioner goes. It only takes 1/2 hour to do it. Unless you have that specific tool you are just guessing the condition of the chain. A BMW specialist may also have the tool. Here is the instructions on how to check the chain with the special tool.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...aft/1VnZ2ySUQB

[Sayek]

I have the N43 engine and fortunately not experienced the chain issue yet. Had my fair share of injector trouble though.

I have seen few people mention the plastic tensioner break off and block the oil passage.. and thats big trouble.
I hope the video i found on the web of N43 helps.
There are some theories the timing chain trouble is due to the crazy BMW long interval oil service.

As for the blown Nox i would ignore it as i been driving with that sensor damaged almost a year now.

[shrek_pce]

Originally Posted by neilj35

That's why I'm saying to check the chain for stretching. With a noise like the one you have that is the FIRST step in diagnosing especially since the chains are such a big issue. CHECKING the chain. You're not throwing money at it if you're checking things.
I've been a mechanic for 26 years and have replaced loads of these tensioners. I have NEVER had one jump teeth. If you don't know what your doing it would be possible. My advice would be to take it to BMW and have them check the chain. They have a special tool that screws in where the tensioner goes. It only takes 1/2 hour to do it. Unless you have that specific tool you are just guessing the condition of the chain. A BMW specialist may also have the tool. Here is the instructions on how to check the chain with the special tool.
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...aft/1VnZ2ySUQB

Thanks man.
I have arranged an appointment at my mechanic to check and change the timing chain. Cam addaptations are at the edge (one outside the area). Oil pressure and PWM of the valve are ok. So I presume there chain is the next step to check, as you have said in the beginning.

I have discovered, that sadly, VANOS units are not repairable and only new ones can be bought (unlike the old ones).
Is there "SOME" way how to inspect them?

[shrek_pce]

Originally Posted by Sayek

I have the N43 engine and fortunately not experienced the chain issue yet. Had my fair share of injector trouble though.

I have seen few people mention the plastic tensioner break off and block the oil passage.. and thats big trouble.
I hope the video i found on the web of N43 helps.
There are some theories the timing chain trouble is due to the crazy BMW long interval oil service.

As for the blown Nox i would ignore it as i been driving with that sensor damaged almost a year now.

My nox problems seem to be solved since the car runs in stratified charge mode. Have used NOXEM form bimmerprofs with quite a success I have to say.
According to their blog using the car with the blown NOX sensor/filter is not a good idea since the car won´t run properly, not anymore.

[david in germany]

Originally Posted by shrek_pce

My nox problems seem to be solved since the car runs in stratified charge mode. Have used NOXEM form bimmerprofs with quite a success I have to say.
According to their blog using the car with the blown NOX sensor/filter is not a good idea since the car won´t run properly, not anymore.

I am also running the Noxem. awesome option if you enjoy your car and want fuel efficiency and better response.

[Sayek]

I was reading at bimmerprof website about the Noxem emulator and was considering it as my car was not running in stratified charge.
Also my car had code 30EA due excess Nox held in the cat..was over 1200mg.

But recently did a few motor blast and activated Nox regen via Carly app.
I monitored the Nox level drop to 600mg and the Carly app was showing engine running in Stratified under light acceleration and changed to Homogenous hard acceleration.

To me it looked like the code 30EA was preventing stratified charge.. i still have 4 codes about failed Nox sensor.

Well i am confused

[shrek_pce]

Originally Posted by Sayek

I was reading at bimmerprof website about the Noxem emulator and was considering it as my car was not running in stratified charge.
Also my car had code 30EA due excess Nox held in the cat..was over 1200mg.

But recently did a few motor blast and activated Nox regen via Carly app.
I monitored the Nox level drop to 600mg and the Carly app was showing engine running in Stratified under light acceleration and changed to Homogenous hard acceleration.

To me it looked like the code 30EA was preventing stratified charge.. i still have 4 codes about failed Nox sensor.

Well i am confused

To be honest there is a LOT to read there...but all of it is very valuable info. Have been able to fix most of my problems with the car and guys are very helpful over the email as well.
NOXem seems to be a really good product solving many NOX-related issues.

Sadly, these engines are not just about deleting fault codes but also about deleting the adaptations and creating new ones. All of it can be found at their blog.

[shrek_pce]

Sooo...it seems that problems are gone! Knock on the wood.

Chain guides have been broken - most likely the cause of the rattle.

Changed chain kit, vanos camshaft seals, cover seals and sparkplugs (they looked way too old)

Readapted the engine and it runs without any problems so far :-)

From my experience, I wouldn’t have guessed the timing chain. That’s the reason for changing the camshaft seals as well. If the rattle persisted - only possible solution would be the vanos units. And since they cost only around 15€...I strongly suggest.

Hope this thread helps someone

[ibz]

Originally Posted by Sayek

I was reading at bimmerprof website about the Noxem emulator and was considering it as my car was not running in stratified charge.
Also my car had code 30EA due excess Nox held in the cat..was over 1200mg.

But recently did a few motor blast and activated Nox regen via Carly app.
I monitored the Nox level drop to 600mg and the Carly app was showing engine running in Stratified under light acceleration and changed to Homogenous hard acceleration.

To me it looked like the code 30EA was preventing stratified charge.. i still have 4 codes about failed Nox sensor.

Well i am confused

I have carly and the NOx codes come up as well, however when I tried to request a NOx regen it wouldn’t load, but when I back out it says regen request accepted, so once accepted do I just go on a drive cruising at 70 for 30 mins or so I need to drive for longer