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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N55 Turbo Engine Tuning and Exhaust Modifications - 335i Tuning > N55 rod knock/spun bearing tracking



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      02-24-2020, 07:04 AM   #353
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Originally Posted by Marq_z View Post
I bought my 2012 335i used 3 months ago and it has been making this knocking sound. Has anyone had a similar experience? Only makes the noise when car has been driven for awhile and the temperature is close to 250. The knocking is very obvious and can be heard even from 10-15 feet away. Cold starts are quick without any noises or issues.


I've heard a very very similar noise for quite some time (since ownership) and never had any issues. I regularly push my 2011 N55 engine, since I have been tuning it.

I believe that some other owners (with a louder version of this noise) said it had to do with the vacuum pump. I have put off doing any repairs as it's just not significant enough.
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      02-24-2020, 11:55 AM   #354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marq_z View Post
I bought my 2012 335i used 3 months ago and it has been making this knocking sound. Has anyone had a similar experience? Only makes the noise when car has been driven for awhile and the temperature is close to 250. The knocking is very obvious and can be heard even from 10-15 feet away. Cold starts are quick without any noises or issues.


I've heard a very very similar noise for quite some time (since ownership) and never had any issues. I regularly push my 2011 N55 engine, since I have been tuning it.

I believe that some other owners (with a louder version of this noise) said it had to do with the vacuum pump. I have put off doing any repairs as it's just not significant enough.
Thanks for the insight. It sounds like a helicopter but it hasnt triggered any problems so far. I dropped my car off at an indy shop this morning so they can look into it. From the researched I've done, I'm leaning towards the transmission. Either the flywheel or torque converter. I say that because Ive notice that when I put the car into park, neutral or drive, when the clutch disengages the noise stops for about a second and then comes back. I also noticed yesterday that my rpms suddenly went up and now the car doesn't want to shift into 8th gear when I'm in sport mode on the highway, which did not happen before. Fingers crossed that its nothing too serious.
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      02-24-2020, 12:00 PM   #355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marq_z View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by anjuna View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marq_z View Post
I bought my 2012 335i used 3 months ago and it has been making this knocking sound. Has anyone had a similar experience? Only makes the noise when car has been driven for awhile and the temperature is close to 250. The knocking is very obvious and can be heard even from 10-15 feet away. Cold starts are quick without any noises or issues.


I've heard a very very similar noise for quite some time (since ownership) and never had any issues. I regularly push my 2011 N55 engine, since I have been tuning it.

I believe that some other owners (with a louder version of this noise) said it had to do with the vacuum pump. I have put off doing any repairs as it's just not significant enough.
Thanks for the insight. It sounds like a helicopter but it hasnt triggered any problems so far. I dropped my car off at an indy shop this morning so they can look into it. From the researched I've done, I'm leaning towards the transmission. Either the flywheel or torque converter. I say that because Ive notice that when I put the car into park, neutral or drive, when the clutch disengages the noise stops for about a second and then comes back. I also noticed yesterday that my rpms suddenly went up and now the car doesn't want to shift into 8th gear when I'm in sport mode on the highway, which did not happen before. Fingers crossed that its nothing too serious.
The car will never shift into 8th in sport.

That's just the Transmission Control Unit logic (TCU)
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      02-24-2020, 02:10 PM   #356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anjuna View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marq_z View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by anjuna View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marq_z View Post
I bought my 2012 335i used 3 months ago and it has been making this knocking sound. Has anyone had a similar experience? Only makes the noise when car has been driven for awhile and the temperature is close to 250. The knocking is very obvious and can be heard even from 10-15 feet away. Cold starts are quick without any noises or issues.


I've heard a very very similar noise for quite some time (since ownership) and never had any issues. I regularly push my 2011 N55 engine, since I have been tuning it.

I believe that some other owners (with a louder version of this noise) said it had to do with the vacuum pump. I have put off doing any repairs as it's just not significant enough.
Thanks for the insight. It sounds like a helicopter but it hasnt triggered any problems so far. I dropped my car off at an indy shop this morning so they can look into it. From the researched I've done, I'm leaning towards the transmission. Either the flywheel or torque converter. I say that because Ive notice that when I put the car into park, neutral or drive, when the clutch disengages the noise stops for about a second and then comes back. I also noticed yesterday that my rpms suddenly went up and now the car doesn't want to shift into 8th gear when I'm in sport mode on the highway, which did not happen before. Fingers crossed that its nothing too serious.
The car will never shift into 8th in sport.

That's just the Transmission Control Unit logic (TCU)
I've actually been reading up this, I guess I just never noticed that the car didn't shift to 8th even though I drive it in sport/sport+ mode most of the time. Aside from that however I have experienced other potential issues that point to the transmission. I actually just got a call from the shop. They said that they isolated the noise and seems to be coming from the transmission. They said it sounds like a metal on metal sound. Looks like the transmission will need to pulled out to identify the cause.
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      03-08-2020, 12:22 AM   #357
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2011 e93 n55

103xxx knocking motor think I spun a rod bearing , changed oil roughly 1000-2000 miles liquid moly 5w30 in summer 5w40 in winter at the time of incident I was running mobil 5w30 smh
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      04-08-2020, 09:03 PM   #358
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Originally Posted by Komayo456 View Post
103xxx knocking motor think I spun a rod bearing , changed oil roughly 1000-2000 miles liquid moly 5w30 in summer 5w40 in winter at the time of incident I was running mobil 5w30 smh
was using pennzoil 5w30 smh 2013 535i n55 134k miles here - for record.
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      05-31-2020, 03:36 PM   #359
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My 2nd 2011 n55 engine has also got rod knock https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1725430
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      06-24-2020, 09:57 AM   #360
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Chiming in here, 2012 MY, 11/2011 build, 135 just ate a rod bearing at 113,000 miles. I just did the OFHG and OCHG, let it idle and warm up, took it for a 10 mile drive or so everything seemed fine, went to a track day and like three laps in, boom. I got three different codes for super knock on cyl 3, but maybe that was just the bearing clattering?

I've owned it since 2016 when it had 102,000 miles. Oil has been Castrol 0W40 every spring, and every 5-6 track days, not much history on it before my ownership but it looked well maintained, the oil pan and head are super clean. I've been running MHD Stage 1 for pretty much the entire time I've owned it.
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      06-24-2020, 05:49 PM   #361
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Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
Chiming in here, 2012 MY, 11/2011 build, 135 just ate a rod bearing at 113,000 miles. I just did the OFHG and OCHG, let it idle and warm up, took it for a 10 mile drive or so everything seemed fine, went to a track day and like three laps in, boom. I got three different codes for super knock on cyl 3, but maybe that was just the bearing clattering?

I've owned it since 2016 when it had 102,000 miles. Oil has been Castrol 0W40 every spring, and every 5-6 track days, not much history on it before my ownership but it looked well maintained, the oil pan and head are super clean. I've been running MHD Stage 1 for pretty much the entire time I've owned it.
1. Bought the car used, unknown maintenance record - check

2. Had high mileage (100k+) - check

3. Was tuned on an OTS map - check

4. Changed the oil once a year - check

5. Used 40 weight oil - check

6. Recently changed OFHG - check

7. Tracked the car - check

Do you happen to go above 3k rpm in the morning (oil temp below 190) as well?

Rod bearings are a wear item.
Your rod bearings must've been on its way out.
My theory is some debris or air that got in during OFHG change must've put a nail on the coffin of your dying rod bearings.
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      06-25-2020, 07:19 AM   #362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post
1. Bought the car used, unknown maintenance record - check

2. Had high mileage (100k+) - check

3. Was tuned on an OTS map - check

4. Changed the oil once a year - check

5. Used 40 weight oil - check

6. Recently changed OFHG - check

7. Tracked the car - check

Do you happen to go above 3k rpm in the morning (oil temp below 190) as well?

Rod bearings are a wear item.
Your rod bearings must've been on its way out.
My theory is some debris or air that got in during OFHG change must've put a nail on the coffin of your dying rod bearings.
For the record, as stated, oil changes were once a year, and every 5-6 track days. So, 2-3 times a year, maybe 1500 miles between them. No revving on cold starts. It’s primarily a track car and it’s always warmed up when heading out.

Also when it went I got a bunch of codes for super knock and then cyl 3 deactivation so I’m not convinced it was because of the OFHG but who knows. My leading theory is bad gas leading to super knock and then the rod bearing failure.
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      06-26-2020, 10:30 PM   #363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supermoon View Post
1. Bought the car used, unknown maintenance record - check

2. Had high mileage (100k+) - check

3. Was tuned on an OTS map - check

4. Changed the oil once a year - check

5. Used 40 weight oil - check

6. Recently changed OFHG - check

7. Tracked the car - check

Do you happen to go above 3k rpm in the morning (oil temp below 190) as well?

Rod bearings are a wear item.
Your rod bearings must've been on its way out.
My theory is some debris or air that got in during OFHG change must've put a nail on the coffin of your dying rod bearings.
How can I put lol as answer under all of these bullet points? Especially on the 100k high mileage oh wow ....
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      06-26-2020, 10:36 PM   #364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
For the record, as stated, oil changes were once a year, and every 5-6 track days. So, 2-3 times a year, maybe 1500 miles between them. No revving on cold starts. It’s primarily a track car and it’s always warmed up when heading out.

Also when it went I got a bunch of codes for super knock and then cyl 3 deactivation so I’m not convinced it was because of the OFHG but who knows. My leading theory is bad gas leading to super knock and then the rod bearing failure.
Since this is track car look into engine swap and change the bearings on the replacement engine before you install it. Also look into better lubrication solution like accupump or external oil pump.
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      06-28-2020, 11:32 AM   #365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amg6975 View Post
For the record, as stated, oil changes were once a year, and every 5-6 track days. So, 2-3 times a year, maybe 1500 miles between them. No revving on cold starts. It’s primarily a track car and it’s always warmed up when heading out.

Also when it went I got a bunch of codes for super knock and then cyl 3 deactivation so I’m not convinced it was because of the OFHG but who knows. My leading theory is bad gas leading to super knock and then the rod bearing failure.
I am pretty sure that the super knock ended the bearings but that they were very close to their way out, like the super knock is not the main and sole cause of the spun bearing.

Across the last two years I had a few super knock codes because I overboost at 28 psi and nobody knows what to do about it, but my bearings are still holding up.

Like Supermoon mentioned, I still think it has something to do with air entering the feed system or a lubrication handicap.

Anyways, sorry to hear about this and I hope you get to fix it.
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      07-14-2020, 11:20 AM   #366
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2011 e90 xdrive, 185 000km. Spun bearing last week engine dead
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      08-17-2020, 10:31 PM   #367
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      08-22-2020, 05:37 PM   #368
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Member of the MiamiBimmerClub was driving his e92 n55 and said it just turned off, he sent a video and I had to break the news his engine is seized. His mechanic reassured him that it is in fact seized. What a junk platform, think that I got an n55 instead of n54 to deal with less problems and ended up with two seized engines.
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      08-22-2020, 10:01 PM   #369
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Member of the MiamiBimmerClub was driving his e92 n55 and said it just turned off, he sent a video and I had to break the news his engine is seized. His mechanic reassured him that it is in fact seized. What a junk platform, think that I got an n55 instead of n54 to deal with less problems and ended up with two seized engines.
Funny how my only reason to break my back more at Walmart as a mighty fruit and veggies clerk while I was studying was to get just enough money so I could go ahead a purchase a "more reliable" N55 over an N54.

Sometimes this life, I swear.
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      08-24-2020, 10:51 PM   #370
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Yet people told fatty and me that we were crazy to proactively swap the rod bearings at 60 K miles.
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      08-24-2020, 11:25 PM   #371
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also a victim

My #6 piston spun at 90K miles. Can't afford to purchase a used engine so I try to salvage it and planning to replace all rod bearings this week. Hope it works.
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      08-25-2020, 10:10 AM   #372
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Yet people told fatty and me that we were crazy to proactively swap the rod bearings at 60 K miles.
While I'm certain preventatively replacing rod bearings is not the right decision for everyone, for me and my goal of keeping the car in good working order for years to come - and especially after seeing what condition mine were in after only 72K miles, it was more than worth it. ~15K tuned miles later and still running strong!
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      08-25-2020, 02:19 PM   #373
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Originally Posted by glenpointe View Post
My #6 piston spun at 90K miles. Can't afford to purchase a used engine so I try to salvage it and planning to replace all rod bearings this week. Hope it works.
I did this and 2 weeks later it started knocking so my suggestion is fix it and sell it right away.
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      08-25-2020, 10:44 PM   #374
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I did this and 2 weeks later it started knocking so my suggestion is fix it and sell it right away.
I’m sorry. If crank looked ok then probably the big end on the rod got deformed from the knock. What are you going to do now?
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