[trader14]

we took our 2010 e92 convertible with about 110k miles for a oil change.

because of covid the dealer picked our car up and dropped it off. We have had this car for roughly 8 years (bought used cpo) and for the past 6 years every oil change we are told we to replace the valve cover gasket and we decline every time because we rarely see oil drip and are never notified we are low on oil. this past time we were told we need new rear brakes and there is a oil filter housing leak.

I bought new brakes/rotors/sensor to take to my indy who charges me $50 per hour labor and it seems like a lot of "grunt" work to replace the valve and oil filter housing gasket but was thinking about letting him do this work. parts are cheap but it seems like lots of patience and know how is necessary to get the job done

I am always dubious about what our bmw shop says, there is no notification that brakes are running thin and they actually feel typical...if we don't notice much if any oil leaking ever do you think the gaskets need replacing or i am guessing we ought to open the hood and see if there is oil dripping??? On occasion I can smell the residue of buring oil when the car is turned off for less than 30 seconds

[Emilime75]

Have you ever popped your hood and took a look for yourself? VCG and OFHG leaks are easy to spot, and they can cause other problems even if you don't see drips on the ground. Don't forget there's also an under belly pan that would keep most leaks from reaching the ground. Not too mention that both of those seals are very prone to leaking and it is not at all too far fetched to believe that they are if they haven't been replaced recently. The oil burning you smell is most likely the exhaust side of the head where the oil is dripping down onto your turbos and downpipes which get really hot, also a very common experience with a leaking VCG.

An OFHG leaks can lead to severe problems, even the death of your engine. A. If the seal between the oil and coolant passage leaks, you can introduce coolant into the oil and kill the motor. B. If the oil leaks down the front of the engine, and it gets on the serpentine belt and/or pulleys, it can slip off, wrap itself around the crank pulley and be ingested through the front main seal...not only destroying the seal, but also very, very possibly getting into the timing chain where it could throw the engine out of time and cause valves to contact pistons and/or get sucked up by the oil pickup and cause oil starvation, again leading to the death of an engine.

For the VCG, of it's leaking down into the injector and spark plugs/coil area, it can cause further problems with those components, as well.

So, the moral of the story is to definitely inspect them and replace them if needed.

[mecheng77]

Yes to both especially the ofhg but also do you want to breath oil fumes? Replace the vcg too it only gets worst.

Use oem gaskets for both

[ppointer]

If you can smell it, then that valve cover gasket definitely needs to be addressed. Indy probably won’t have a problem.

Like other poster says, you can see the oil filter housing right up front and on top. This gasket is a bit tricky and I would not let the Indy learn on your car. But at this mileage your Bmw dealer is probably telling the truth. Needs to be addressed. Don’t put it off.

[tmo24]

Originally Posted by trader14

we took our 2010 e92 convertible with about 110k miles for a oil change.

because of covid the dealer picked our car up and dropped it off. We have had this car for roughly 8 years (bought used cpo) and for the past 6 years every oil change we are told we to replace the valve cover gasket and we decline every time because we rarely see oil drip and are never notified we are low on oil. this past time we were told we need new rear brakes and there is a oil filter housing leak.

I bought new brakes/rotors/sensor to take to my indy who charges me $50 per hour labor and it seems like a lot of "grunt" work to replace the valve and oil filter housing gasket but was thinking about letting him do this work. parts are cheap but it seems like lots of patience and know how is necessary to get the job done

I am always dubious about what our bmw shop says, there is no notification that brakes are running thin and they actually feel typical...if we don't notice much if any oil leaking ever do you think the gaskets need replacing or i am guessing we ought to open the hood and see if there is oil dripping??? On occasion I can smell the residue of buring oil when the car is turned off for less than 30 seconds

Yes replace it. I am about to do mine. Oil is dripping into the spark pulls and causing misfires and rough acceleration. I take the 2 and 3 spark plug out and they have oil on them. I clean them off and it runs nice for a bit but it's not a permanent fix.

[Ginobass]

If your car is a SULEV (N51) and you're in a SULEV state then your VCG is covered under the extended emissions warranty. OFHG is not but it's not a bad job if you are handy, a snap for an indy.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by ppointer

If you can smell it, then that valve cover gasket definitely needs to be addressed. Indy probably won’t have a problem.

Like other poster says, you can see the oil filter housing right up front and on top. This gasket is a bit tricky and I would not let the Indy learn on your car. But at this mileage your Bmw dealer is probably telling the truth. Needs to be addressed. Don’t put it off.

Nothing tricky about the OFHG. It’s about as easy as a gasket could be. Takes 30 mins.

Certainly do that gasket - could cause you to lose your engine, as mentioned.

[trader14]

just closing loop with you guys - took it over with all the parts to get the ofhg and valve cover gasket taken care of and after removing everything he looked at the gaskets and said they are loose and just need to be tightened so he tightened them, put everything back together cleaned up the oil affected area and i will monitor the area and see if oil starts leaking again.

on another note my windshield wiper fluid hasn't been working in a couple years so we took the wheel off and the wheel lining and cleaned out the clog in the filter and that is now working.

the stealership quoted $1042 for valve gasket and $612 for oil filter housing leak. while they were at it the said i needed a brake flush $220 and when we looked at the brake fluid it couldn't have been cleaner, stealership quoted $612 for rear brake pads (not rotors) so having those done sunday bosch basic pads cost $20 and labor will be $50. stealership quoted $185 for microfilter i will do that myself cost $19.

my head is telling me that maybe i just should have had him change the valve cover gasket while he was down there...

[Bimmer_Engineer]

If you insist on having a mechanic do the gaskets then find a BMW Indy...I did the VCG in about 4 hrs over several days and the OFHG in about 2 hrs...there’s no way they’re worth $1600...

[alpnwss]

Originally Posted by tlow98

Nothing tricky about the OFHG. It’s about as easy as a gasket could be. Takes 30 mins.

Certainly do that gasket - could cause you to lose your engine, as mentioned.

I wouldn't say it's THAT easy unless you're being sloppy. You have to remove the intake manifold a little, clean around it, bleed coolant, torque stuff properly etc. Not for a newbie.
If you have a handy friend and/or some tools there are a LOT of very good DIYs on YouTube and on these forums.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by alpnwss

I wouldn't say it's THAT easy unless you're being sloppy. You have to remove the intake manifold a little, clean around it, bleed coolant, torque stuff properly etc. Not for a newbie.
If you have a handy friend and/or some tools there are a LOT of very good DIYs on YouTube and on these forums.

No. All you need is E8 (maybe 10) torx swivel 1/4” from snap-on. No need to remove manifold on n52. Release oil cover to allow oil to drain.

Stuff surround area with towels to catch 1 cup of coolant. Twist back OFHG with coolant hose still attached. Clean gasket surfaces. Replace gasket. Run auto coolant bleed procedure. Top off coolant.

No need to over complicate this one. Maybe first time I did it was 45 mins. Second def under 30.

[solo118]

Originally Posted by tlow98

No. All you need is E8 (maybe 10) torx swivel 1/4” from snap-on. No need to remove manifold on n52. Release oil cover to allow oil to drain.

Stuff surround area with towels to catch 1 cup of coolant. Twist back OFHG with coolant hose still attached. Clean gasket surfaces. Replace gasket. Run auto coolant bleed procedure. Top off coolant.

No need to over complicate this one. Maybe first time I did it was 45 mins. Second def under 30.

When ordering the parts, there are options on Amazon, but I assume OEM is better.

Either way, do I need new bolts with this or just the gasket itself and reuse the bolts?

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by solo118

When ordering the parts, there are options on Amazon, but I assume OEM is better.

Either way, do I need new bolts with this or just the gasket itself and reuse the bolts?

Oil filter housing bolts can be reused. Don't go aftermarket on the gasket. I used Elring-Klinger brand which was an OEM supplier since the start of the E90 but just recently BMW switched to a Japanese supplier which is allegedly a better and longer lasting gasket, so get an OEM one from a reputable BMW supplier and it should say Made in Japan if it's one of the newer ones. The older ones are fine but might leak in another 8-10 years just like the original. Might is the keyword.

One thing that might be worth replacing is the coolant connector that goes to the cylinder head. With enough time and mileage the heat cycles destroy this plastic and it crumbles when you touch it. You can get a machined aluminum replacement for $20 on eBay.

[alpnwss]

Originally Posted by tlow98

No. All you need is E8 (maybe 10) torx swivel 1/4” from snap-on. No need to remove manifold on n52. Release oil cover to allow oil to drain.

Stuff surround area with towels to catch 1 cup of coolant. Twist back OFHG with coolant hose still attached. Clean gasket surfaces. Replace gasket. Run auto coolant bleed procedure. Top off coolant.

No need to over complicate this one. Maybe first time I did it was 45 mins. Second def under 30.

Oh. Us N54 maniacs have to remove the manifold. I think I remember seeing N52 doesn't have to.
Reusing bolts: The bolts are aluminum (N54 only? Unlikely but possible) though. Probably smart to get new bolts so one doesn't snap in the head. Super cheap anyways.

[alpnwss]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

One thing that might be worth replacing is the coolant connector that goes to the cylinder head. With enough time and mileage the heat cycles destroy this plastic and it crumbles when you touch it. You can get a machined aluminum replacement for $20 on eBay.

Best N5X tip of all time (maybe). So simple, so cheap, could save you from being stranded. Can't recommend enough.

[solo118]

Originally Posted by lowrydr310

Oil filter housing bolts can be reused. Don't go aftermarket on the gasket. I used Elring-Klinger brand which was an OEM supplier since the start of the E90 but just recently BMW switched to a Japanese supplier which is allegedly a better and longer lasting gasket, so get an OEM one from a reputable BMW supplier and it should say Made in Japan if it's one of the newer ones. The older ones are fine but might leak in another 8-10 years just like the original. Might is the keyword.

One thing that might be worth replacing is the coolant connector that goes to the cylinder head. With enough time and mileage the heat cycles destroy this plastic and it crumbles when you touch it. You can get a machined aluminum replacement for $20 on eBay.

Thank you, I did find Elring online. That is perfect, I doubt I will have the car in 8 years lol, but it is an easy job so I am sure I can do it again in a few years if needed.

As for the coolant connector, thank you so much for the tip. Assuming it is also an easy install while I am there? Can you advise part # or link for this?

[Bimmer_Engineer]

On the n54 the coolant flange isn’t too bad. It’s right below the filter housing. Be careful when you wiggle it out that you don’t get any plastic from the old flange in the hose or the coolant passage. I put a set of vise grips on the hose. After you unbolt the old flange and free it from the block you need to use a dremel on the clamp. If you’re careful you can reuse the hose. Take your time because the other end of that hose is a real pain to get to...

[solo118]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Engineer

On the n54 the coolant flange isn’t too bad. It’s right below the filter housing. Be careful when you wiggle it out that you don’t get any plastic from the old flange in the hose or the coolant passage. I put a set of vise grips on the hose. After you unbolt the old flange and free it from the block you need to use a dremel on the clamp. If you’re careful you can reuse the hose. Take your time because the other end of that hose is a real pain to get to...

Thanks. Same instructions with an N51?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by solo118

Thanks. Same instructions with an N51?

I posted a DIY in the DIY section for the N52 (N51 is the same basic engine as N52). Basically, drain coolant radiator only, remove the hose from the cylinderhead, plug the hose with a rag, break up the old plastic bib, install the new aluminum bib.

[Emilime75]

When I did mine(N54) I just pointed the hose down and used channel locks to squeeze the hose and crush the plastic fitting until it fell out.

[K9Leader]

I did my OFHG a couple of years ago and discovered the problem with the coolant connector when I went to disconnect it to get to one of the OFHG bolts and it disintegrated on me. I ordered one of the billet aluminum ones (this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAMBA-BMW-N...item3d55a9b4e7).

I did Dremel the perma-clamp off and used a worm-drive clamp and all has been good.

[solo118]

Originally Posted by K9Leader

I did my OFHG a couple of years ago and discovered the problem with the coolant connector when I went to disconnect it to get to one of the OFHG bolts and it disintegrated on me. I ordered one of the billet aluminum ones (this one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAMBA-BMW-N...item3d55a9b4e7).

I did Dremel the perma-clamp off and used a worm-drive clamp and all has been good.

Out of stock.... can I use this or is it different?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...iABEgLo3vD_BwE