[JMWhite]

When blocking off the EGR Cooler Has anyone found a kit that does not involve me fabricating my own parts?

Does anyone know of a gasket kit with all the hard ware that needs to be changed when removing intake (gaskets ect.)

Anyone got a link to a good catch can (into atmosphere)?

[JMWhite]

bump

[335dlci]

There are a few that are offered f ok r the block off or even delete. Andrew sells them

I have a add w1 catch can. Got it off of newegg. There are plenty of DIY threads of needed parts

[JMWhite]

I am failing in this forum for sure!

I have been searching this thing intermittently I'll find a thread with good links I wont need until 3 days later!
I am definitely failing this forum thing right now I cannot find a link or post with simple click here buy this accessibility! However my car is down right now (not voluntarily) I have some mechanical inclination (I don't know much about BMW M57 engine but I am learning) so I decided (in light of the value of my car shitting the bed) that I would DIY the whole repair.

That being said I do need the parts in a hurry as I don't have time to search for days for the parts I need. I will continue to look and if you find a helpful link or thread for me in my quest to repair this thing, please forward it to me!

Thanks for the interest in my thread and I will try to run down Andrew and Newegg!

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by JMWhite

When blocking off the EGR Cooler Has anyone found a kit that does not involve me fabricating my own parts?

Does anyone know of a gasket kit with all the hard ware that needs to be changed when removing intake (gaskets ect.)

Anyone got a link to a good catch can (into atmosphere)?

Yes, it's been posted here in several recent threads. http://www.fixmyvw.com/egr-race-pipe...5d-and-x5-35d/

Are you doing a cbu?

These cars won't work with with an atmosphere vented catch can, they require the vacuum form the turbos. There are several catch can install threads. Mostly unnecessary with an egr block. I have a catch can setup with all the parts custome spruced.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=965053

[JMWhite]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

Mostly unnecessary with an egr block.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=965053

I thought without catch can oil seeps in, was under the impression to stop oil and carbon dust, tell me what you think?

Dang vacuum from the hose... Dang! I'll figure it out! Thanks!!!

Just seen the EGR Ad So I just install that and remove the EGR Cooler Then delete code everytime I start it (until I get it coded out?)

[JMWhite]

Yes I am doing a CBU cleanup!!!

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

Yes, it's been posted here in several recent threads. http://www.fixmyvw.com/egr-race-pipe...5d-and-x5-35d/

Are you doing a cbu?

These cars won't work with with an atmosphere vented catch can, they require the vacuum form the turbos. There are several catch can install threads. Mostly unnecessary with an egr block. I have a catch can setup with all the parts custome spruced.
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=965053

I have the same parts from that thread. Just haven't had the time to install it after doing all the trimming of the hoses. I also have block off plates from Iamknown

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by JMWhite

I thought without catch can oil seeps in, was under the impression to stop oil and carbon dust, tell me what you think?

Dang vacuum from the hose... Dang! I'll figure it out! Thanks!!!

Just seen the EGR Ad So I just install that and remove the EGR Cooler Then delete code everytime I start it (until I get it coded out?)

The catch can helps, but can't trap all sources of oil in the induction path. The catch can reduces blow by from the pcv system it's not 100%. The turbo seals leak oil and so do the valve stem seals. Bottom line there is no preventative that can completely stop cbu, but the egr block alone will slow it down to the point it won't matter to most owners. Of course lots of folks go over 100k miles without cbu. The reasons why cbu is such an issue for some are unknown, but the theorie are many. Blocking the egr is the signle best mod you can do to reduce cbu. The catch can is helpful too, but with blocking the egr isn't probably a big deal.

I can't answer about the egr cooler delete, probably info on the tread. But at least with the block, your car will run fine without a tune and on ever second start through an ses. The engine may also runs bit rougher.

[JMWhite]

Thanks everyone I think i am set now just to clean this CBU! This forum has been great!

[Hoooper]

Originally Posted by Thecastle

These cars won't work with with an atmosphere vented catch can, they require the vacuum form the turbos.

Worked fine for me and sounded like it worked fine for tdiwyse also

[JMWhite]

I am really thinking about using Liqui Moly for my CBU issue @ 105k. do a egr delete and ride it out until I can get JR Tune and delete the rest of the alphabet.

My issue is that this is the first CBU cleaning this car has had... I am already throwing codes/Limp mode indicating possibly that CBU is bad. So just curious how effective it will be. I will post pictures, If it does not work out I can just remove the intake and clean it with walnut shells!

Advice/Predictions??

[335dlci]

Originally Posted by JMWhite

I am really thinking about using Liqui Moly for my CBU issue @ 105k. do a egr delete and ride it out until I can get JR Tune and delete the rest of the alphabet.

My issue is that this is the first CBU cleaning this car has had... I am already throwing codes/Limp mode indicating possibly that CBU is bad. So just curious how effective it will be. I will post pictures, If it does not work out I can just remove the intake and clean it with walnut shells!

Advice/Predictions??

liquid moly engine oil?

[pbdm4k]

Originally Posted by JMWhite

I am really thinking about using Liqui Moly for my CBU issue @ 105k. do a egr delete and ride it out until I can get JR Tune and delete the rest of the alphabet.

My issue is that this is the first CBU cleaning this car has had... I am already throwing codes/Limp mode indicating possibly that CBU is bad. So just curious how effective it will be. I will post pictures, If it does not work out I can just remove the intake and clean it with walnut shells!

Advice/Predictions??

From personal experience doing the CBU cleaning, I don't think liquid cleaners on their own will do it.

The carbon is caked on and baked in. I followed another DIY here and soaked the entire intake manifold in a hot water/cleaning solution bath overnight and that alone was not enough to remove the CBU. It required manual cleaning by using a power washer and even picks and hard bristle brushes to clean off. It's still not 100%, but it was a significant amount of carbon grit that came out of the manifold and the runners. I had to clean the engine valve cover/head itself with picks and a shop vac with solvent to remove as well.

I would skip any sort of liquid cleaner short cut and seriously dedicate a weekend to removing the manifold and cleaning it properly.

Any cleaner or meth injection you do in the intake stream might help as a CBU preventative measure for long term maintenance of the car, but if your car has never had a cleaning done before, I think you're way past that and need a physical/manual cleaning.

[BB_cuda]

Originally Posted by JMWhite

Does anyone know of a gasket kit with all the hard ware that needs to be changed when removing intake (gaskets ect.)?

Don't think anyone answered this question unless I missed it.
We all use realoem.com a whole lot. Enter the last 7 of your VIN, hit enter, and then click the browse parts button down low. This is taking you to all of the parts that fit your car and even shows when there are updates to the original parts due to revisions and recalls. this link is taking you to the intake manifold sub section.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_3876

You need (6) of item 2 and (6) of item 3 as a bare minimum. There are these orange rubber discs associated with the rectangular ports. They are supposed to be captured by another part as you pull off the intake. I've pulled my intake 2 times and both times a couple fell off but somehow didn't go into the rectangular ports. They get a little deformed too. I changed all of these on the first intake pull. They aren't directly related to the sealing of the large rectangular ports. I saved these parts after 1st intake removal. On the second removal, I found a few of these were deformed and used a few undeformed ones saved from the first pull. I will go hunt this part number down and edit it back into this same post.

The best advice that I can give is to make sure to pull out the central firewall piece (its black plastic) BEFORE trying to remove the rear portion of the engine cover. Three 10 mm screws holding this on to nut clips.

I use a little clean motor oil on the new seals. I also put the same oil on the other seals that you will be reusing on the throttle body/charge pipe/EGR valve. I'm not sure if you're putting on Andrew's faux EGR valve otherwise known as his "race pipe". You will get a new seal (perhaps 2) I believe in his kit if you get it.

I have systematically changed the lower and upper green seals on both ends of the intercooler's outlet pipe. It isn't necessary to do this often. Some have reported boost leak (you see a little oil residue) on the upper spot where the pipe hooks to the throttle body inlet (Andrew calls this the ASV=anti shudder valve).

EDIT: I found the part and it is also shown on the link that I had given above. It is item 7 (p/n 11-61-2-246-949). I seem to tear up 2 or 3 of these everytime I do the intake pull. You might consider buying a set of these as you will consume them eventually. My 2nd intake pull was to remove the swirl flaps and replace them with blanking plates. A couple people asked me after the fact if this is a worth while mod and I would say meh. I didn't notice any difference in throttle response.

[JMWhite]

BB_Cuda thanks so much ton of info, exactly what I needed!!!

Thanks for the replies these have been helpful!!!

I think I will just soak the intake like suggested by PDMK!

[RollingCoal]

Good info being given here.

I'll add to be careful with the electrical connectors. They get very brittle, and can break easily and the one next to the firewall is a bitch.

[BB_cuda]

Good one Rolling Coal. That fuel rail connector has to come off to get to that very back rectangular port nut. There is a pretty good thread from a 5 series guy (UK) that shows the fundamental steps. I'll try to go dig it up. Just google "pull intake on M57 BMW".

[Whhorn]

As BB said - I'd at least replace the contact gaskets in the intake/ports. I just did mine and replaced everything in the parts list, which is in the SIB..

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=983574

http://www.e90post.com/forums/attach...0&d=1399666494

In the CBU SIB you'll find links for the "prework" to remove all the ancillary bits, which is also handy in reverse when reassembling. Also in there is a vacuum diagram which is great in addition to realoem for replacing vacuum hoses, I did mine while I had everything apart(with verocious 3.5 silicone), as well as the egr delete and intercooler swap.

It's a good time to do things when you have everything pulled off and accessible...

[terry335d]

When I did mine, I took it to a local shop that has a tank specifically for delicate (plastic) parts. He left it in for almost 3 days and it came out perfectly clean. Cheap, too, about 50 Canadian.

[JMWhite]

WOW!! What kind of shop? Are you talking about just the intake or the valves?

[Thecastle]

Originally Posted by Hoooper

Worked fine for me and sounded like it worked fine for tdiwyse also

Yeah, I probably stated that a little strongly. Venting the ccv to atmosphere on these cars appears to be be okay from the perspective of not over pressuring the crank case as tdiwyse measured. However, cars do benifit from pulling a small vacuum on the crank case to help with evacuation of water, voilatiles and acids. So not ever running the crank case under vacuum may not be as effective at removing contaminants from the oil, shortening oil life and potentially engine life. Plus the problem with occasionally dripping and puffing smoke by venting to the air.

So it will work without over pressuring, but it may not be the best thing for engine/oil life.