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      08-03-2020, 10:40 AM   #8647
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Originally Posted by Achappell8 View Post
Thanks NRigs. I do have a VRSF upgraded FMIC, the new design 5"
Ah gotcha. Sorry I missed the "plus" at the end of your tune version. but 100* IAT is still never good. I have been in the same boat. It has been really hot up here in Ma and even with meth I am still getting some corrections.
Hey I'm in MA too. These temps are outrageous.
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      08-04-2020, 12:01 AM   #8648
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I'm not sure what map to run, I have JB4, Burger Intake, burger Charge pipe, and straight piped exhaust... Can somebody help me out? Or have any customer maps you know of? I run 91 Octane as well... Oh, I drive a 2011 335i e90 N55

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      08-04-2020, 12:24 PM   #8649
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Originally Posted by NRigs View Post
Ah gotcha. Sorry I missed the "plus" at the end of your tune version. but 100* IAT is still never good. I have been in the same boat. It has been really hot up here in Ma and even with meth I am still getting some corrections.
I feel like when it is this hot out, even with a pretty good FMIC, if your gas isn't 100% 93oct, it's gonna pull timing. I feel like there are a lot of gas stations selling 93ish octane gas, so maybe all 93 isn't quite 93. Something to due with (R+M)/2 calculation of the octane rating. If you switch the map down to 91 and the corrections go away, then I guess your gas is somewhere between 91 and 93, even though it was advertised as 93.
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      08-04-2020, 12:28 PM   #8650
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Ah gotcha. Sorry I missed the "plus" at the end of your tune version. but 100* IAT is still never good. I have been in the same boat. It has been really hot up here in Ma and even with meth I am still getting some corrections.
I feel like when it is this hot out, even with a pretty good FMIC, if your gas isn't 100% 93oct, it's gonna pull timing. I feel like there are a lot of gas stations selling 93ish octane gas, so maybe all 93 isn't quite 93. Something to due with (R+M)/2 calculation of the octane rating. If you switch the map down to 91 and the corrections go away, then I guess your gas is somewhere between 91 and 93, even though it was advertised as 93.
So you don't think I should be overly concerned with the stats in the log?
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      08-04-2020, 01:03 PM   #8651
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So you don't think I should be overly concerned with the stats in the log?
Other than the timing correction, this seems good. I personally daily drive my car on 93 gas with the 91 tune and I almost never see consistent timing pulls (like 3 degrees or more over more than 3 cylinders). I would consider myself a little overly cautious though. 6 degrees across multiple cylinders is something you don't want to be doing all summer.
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      08-04-2020, 01:16 PM   #8652
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I feel like when it is this hot out, even with a pretty good FMIC, if your gas isn't 100% 93oct, it's gonna pull timing. I feel like there are a lot of gas stations selling 93ish octane gas, so maybe all 93 isn't quite 93. Something to due with (R+M)/2 calculation of the octane rating. If you switch the map down to 91 and the corrections go away, then I guess your gas is somewhere between 91 and 93, even though it was advertised as 93.
There have been quite a few people complaining about the quality of 93 up here in Ma/Nh. I was filling up with BJ's gas because I get 93 for like $2/gal with the membership discount but noticed increased timing. I have been going further out of my way to fill up with Shell 93 now and my corrections have improved a bit. I would definitely recommend everyone to fill with shell or equivalent gas if they can. Seems more consistent.
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      08-04-2020, 03:18 PM   #8653
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I have been going further out of my way to fill up with Shell 93 now and my corrections have improved a bit. I would definitely recommend everyone to fill with shell or equivalent gas if they can.
I fill up exclusively at Shell (East Providence & Attleboro stations). Given my logs, it may still not be 100%. I did reflash down to a 91 tune for now until it cools off. I don't drive too much right now (covid) but just overly cautious on my 110k Stage 2+ joy machine.
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      08-05-2020, 07:50 PM   #8654
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Can anyone look at my log and tell me why I'm not hitting peak boost? https://datazap.me/u/unrulyteach/3rd...&data=3-16
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      08-05-2020, 08:26 PM   #8655
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Can anyone look at my log and tell me why I'm not hitting peak boost? https://datazap.me/u/unrulyteach/3rd...&data=3-16
I'm not an expert so take this with a grain of salt but from reading all the forums and various responses to log posts - it looks like your waste gate is maxing out or close to it in your log (wdgc %). I think this is usually indicative of a boost leak since your waste gate is trying to increase vacuum to hold boost & achieve the DMEs target (but failing to achieve)
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      08-06-2020, 06:27 PM   #8656
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I love the MHD OTS E50 tune on my PWG e92 2012 335i XDrive that I just installed a EWG turbo from F87 BMW m2 on. Had to shave the EWG wastegate bracket off the m2 housing and use a bolt on RB26dett wastegate bracket for the PWG wastegate. That compressor though! I usually run a mix of e85 and 100 octane. Do not run E50 tune without at least a walbro 450 or 255 inline. MHD tunes are so good. I have been using them for over 2 years with no issues.

Last edited by Vegas N55; 08-06-2020 at 06:33 PM..
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      08-07-2020, 12:56 AM   #8657
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unrulyteach View Post
Can anyone look at my log and tell me why I'm not hitting peak boost? https://datazap.me/u/unrulyteach/3rd...og=0&data=3-16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Achappell8 View Post
I'm not an expert so take this with a grain of salt but from reading all the forums and various responses to log posts - it looks like your waste gate is maxing out or close to it in your log (wdgc %). I think this is usually indicative of a boost leak since your waste gate is trying to increase vacuum to hold boost & achieve the DMEs target (but failing to achieve)
Also not an expert but I think the logs look pretty decent. Don't worry about meeting targets perfectly, especially with IATs of 113. A better intercooler would probably help, but from what I understand 16 psi at the top of the rev range is pretty damn good for stock turbos.
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      08-07-2020, 06:36 AM   #8658
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Thoughts and observations always welcome.


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      08-07-2020, 09:24 AM   #8659
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Maybe some of the more knowledgeable folks on here can help me learn to better interpret my logs:

1. What is the difference between Timing Cyl. 1 (*CRK) & Cyl [1-6] Timing Cor (*)?

2. What are these three parameters:
  • Boost Ratio (TPS)
  • Boost set limit
  • Boost setpoint factor

3. I understand that LTFT (%), STFT 1 (%) are long & short term fuel trims, but how do you analyze them? What's would you look for?
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      08-08-2020, 09:59 AM   #8660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Achappell8 View Post
Maybe some of the more knowledgeable folks on here can help me learn to better interpret my logs:

1. What is the difference between Timing Cyl. 1 (*CRK) & Cyl [1-6] Timing Cor (*)?

2. What are these three parameters:
  • Boost Ratio (TPS)
  • Boost set limit
  • Boost setpoint factor

3. I understand that LTFT (%), STFT 1 (%) are long & short term fuel trims, but how do you analyze them? What's would you look for?
1. The difference is ; one (crk) is the 'actual timing' and COR is the corrected after it has detected a anomaly from using its knock sensor (microphone). Wheb the dme decides to ignite changes all the time based on many parameters. (Crk). When a dme decides to COR is dependant on the knock sensor.

2. These parameters are not clear and generally more useful for tuner not user.

3. All you need to know is that under load STFT should be negative. And LTFT ideally should be zero. LtFT will adjust over time to be close to zero unless u reset adaptations.
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      08-08-2020, 02:20 PM   #8661
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Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
1. The difference is ; one (crk) is the 'actual timing' and COR is the corrected after it has detected a anomaly from using its knock sensor (microphone). Wheb the dme decides to ignite changes all the time based on many parameters. (Crk). When a dme decides to COR is dependant on the knock sensor.
Thank you for responding, very helpful. When people talk about timing corrections, is it safe to assume they are referring to the *COR and not the *CRK? I am getting all sorts of negative numbers in the *COR of my logs and trying to understand if there is an issue or if this is normal.

Thanks in advance!
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      08-08-2020, 07:43 PM   #8662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Achappell8 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pladi View Post
1. The difference is ; one (crk) is the 'actual timing' and COR is the corrected after it has detected a anomaly from using its knock sensor (microphone). Wheb the dme decides to ignite changes all the time based on many parameters. (Crk). When a dme decides to COR is dependant on the knock sensor.
Thank you for responding, very helpful. When people talk about timing corrections, is it safe to assume they are referring to the *COR and not the *CRK? I am getting all sorts of negative numbers in the *COR of my logs and trying to understand if there is an issue or if this is normal.

Thanks in advance!
People use CRK when they refer to timing (even if both parameters are consider timing) and use COR when they talk about corrections.

If you troubleshoot your logs without going deeply into tuning on your own, you will probably mostly/onky use COR.

Send logs!
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      08-09-2020, 11:41 AM   #8663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Achappell8 View Post
Thank you for responding, very helpful. When people talk about timing corrections, is it safe to assume they are referring to the *COR and not the *CRK? I am getting all sorts of negative numbers in the *COR of my logs and trying to understand if there is an issue or if this is normal.

Thanks in advance!
Ideally negative numbers are not good. Up to -3 is ok. Negative COR values should only be looked at for the portion of the log where u have fully pressed ur gas pedal (WOT). They are irrelevant any other time.

When you look at CRK for 1 of the cylinders on the WOT portion you will see that timing advance drops to below 10. Typical is 5.5 degrees up to 9.

That is the timing that the dme is using for that instant in time. As soon as an abnormal condition is derected by the sensors the dme will then subtract from that timing value. Hence the negative COR. ( corrected amount).

Say you go full wot and the timing actual is 5 degrees during your pull. When a knock is detected DME will 'pull' accordingly timing in negative values to lower timing and make the combustion safe. Timing is just the 'actual time" the dme deicides to ignite.

The ideal time is when piston is at the top of its travel. Top dead center as its called.

The higher the timing the more power a car makes. As i said you need to look at these numbers only during WOT. For power. If u look at the timing any other time its more for effeciency.

The best analogy i have heard for ignition timing is the peadal on a bycicle. The best time to push on the pedal is when is at the top. If you push on each stroke when the pedal is at the bottom then u get more tired and ur ride slower. But its safer on ur knees. Lol.
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      08-09-2020, 02:25 PM   #8664
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Quote:
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Ideally negative numbers are not good. Up to -3 is ok. Negative COR values should only be looked at for the portion of the log where u have fully pressed ur gas pedal (WOT)...
Ignition timing is bit more complicated than that. Having ignition timing at TDC would be 0 of timing, when like you said more advanced timing actually makes more power, ie the sparkplug actually fires before the piston reaches TDC giving the spark time to propagate and burn all the fuel. This of course generates more heat and greater pressures and so with more advanced timing octane becomes a more important consideration. Higher octane fuels are more resistant to detonation, and so more aggressive timing can be used. When you see timing pulls the ECU has detected knock (or in severe cases super-knock) using microphones and responded by quickly retarding the timing to prevent damage as the uncontrolled detonation can/will cause damage. Two solutions to this problem, higher octane fuel or less aggressive timing/boost targets. It's also a good idea to change out your sparkplugs and ignition coils if you're seeing larger timing corrections across multiple cylinders as the pressure in the cylinder can blow out weaker spark and cause knock that way too.
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      08-10-2020, 07:50 AM   #8665
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Quote:
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Ignition timing is bit more complicated than that. Having ignition timing at TDC would be 0 of timing, when like you said more advanced timing actually makes more power, ie the sparkplug actually fires before the piston reaches TDC giving the spark time to propagate and burn all the fuel. This of course generates more heat and greater pressures and so with more advanced timing octane becomes a more important consideration. Higher octane fuels are more resistant to detonation, and so more aggressive timing can be used. When you see timing pulls the ECU has detected knock (or in severe cases super-knock) using microphones and responded by quickly retarding the timing to prevent damage as the uncontrolled detonation can/will cause damage. Two solutions to this problem, higher octane fuel or less aggressive timing/boost targets. It's also a good idea to change out your sparkplugs and ignition coils if you're seeing larger timing corrections across multiple cylinders as the pressure in the cylinder can blow out weaker spark and cause knock that way too.
Yeah my intention is to keep it to the point and as simple as possible. I went on too much.
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      08-10-2020, 03:30 PM   #8666
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How long does it take to reset an adaptation?
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      Today, 11:17 AM   #8667
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tagzz View Post
I'm not sure what map to run, I have JB4, Burger Intake, burger Charge pipe, and straight piped exhaust... Can somebody help me out? Or have any customer maps you know of? I run 91 Octane as well... Oh, I drive a 2011 335i e90 N55
you will want to run the 98G0B pump BEF.
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      Today, 06:23 PM   #8668
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How long does it take to reset an adaptation?
As long as it takes a solid state device to switch the state. Like micro seconds.


Nowww if your asking how long does it take for an already reset adaption request to fully adapt. Will depend on how often u drive and alot of other variables but lets say 100 miles of driving should be good.
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