[Aerickson95]

taibanl, If it turns out that you need a HPFP Ill happily sell you mine for cheap. I have been looking for an excuse to upgrade to the R90 pump anyway because of my tune. If this is something that interests you just let me know, also If it is anything emissions / sensor related and you need a part feel free and ill check if I have what you need. I have lots of spares from cars that I have deleted and worked on. Hope all goes well and you get back on the road without breakin the bank.
-Alec

[B16]

Originally Posted by taibanl

Based on what?

No fuel pressure after the HPFP
They tested the lift pump (as did I) and they confirmed that was ok.

[B16]

Originally Posted by Aerickson95

taibanl, If it turns out that you need a HPFP Ill happily sell you mine for cheap. I have been looking for an excuse to upgrade to the R90 pump anyway because of my tune. If this is something that interests you just let me know, also If it is anything emissions / sensor related and you need a part feel free and ill check if I have what you need. I have lots of spares from cars that I have deleted and worked on. Hope all goes well and you get back on the road without breakin the bank.
-Alec

Thank you! Just bought a used one from another member. Also loaning out the specialty tool to replace it. Awesome guy.

[B16]

Originally Posted by BB_cuda

i'm not convinced your problem is the HPFP though. Good luck

I'm also not completely convinced. I suppose if a new (used) HPFP doesn't fix it maybe it is the DDE? I mean a diesel just needs fuel and compression to run. What else could it be? :\

[B16]

HPFP replaced, still no start...

[B16]

DDE replaced, still no start...

What say you e90 post? What else could it be?

I suppose I should try @taibanl suggestion and throw a crank position sensor at it?

[Andrew@FixMyVW]

Sounds like a bad crank sensor, just had a customer go through that.

[B16]

Thanks, I have one on the way. It appears it is below the intake manifold near the bellhousing?

[Monroe]

I dropped several fuses down some cracks. Now I forget which ones I pulled.
It's been one-year and seven months cleaning and the fuse diagram doesn't
match the fuse panel. I have pics of both.

Yes, I haven't started for the whole time.

[B16]

Wow, that crank position sensor was fun to replace. Had to pull the starter which is not easy to do in its location. Who knew a 10mm box wrench with a pipe on it for leverage would work? lol.

Got the CPK sensor replaced, now the car cranks forever. I think I have solved the "original" problem with the short crank no start. I've replaced the HPFP and now the CPK and still have no start. However I think my issue may be different now?

I'm guessing I need to prime the fuel system which is usually done with a tool. Does putting 12v directly on the lift pump achieve the same thing? How long should I let that run for?

[B16]

Just to update. After putting everything back that I swapped out I got the car running again.

Real issue was the CPK sensor. Thank you to everyone for helping out!

[rkstar9]

experiencing short cranks here as in the video as well.
changed camshaft and crankshaft sensors, new battery, able to prime the pump with ISTA but not able to get any fuel when cranking the engine.

will check lpfp and relay as suggested above.

[B16]

If you doing a prime with ISTA that is the lpfp. What I did was unplug the fuel hose to the hpfp and crank to see if fuel comes out. Makes a bit of a mess, but told me I was getting fuel to the hpfp.

Also try unplugging your rail pressure sensor (front of car on rail) and try to start, that tells the hpfp to give all fuel.

[alex sol]

guys what a journey esp for b16, monroe, have you fixed your D? I am going through similar issues so will start with:

1. fuel pump relay
2. low pressure fuel pump - check for operation (can i pull out of the tank and put 12volts on it?)
3. fuel filter - replace
4. crank position sensor - get new
5. fuel pressure regulator - check
6. high pressure fuel pump - check

[Monroe]

Alex,

About June of 2018 I finished cleaning the oily-soot from intake, and

intake valves. I needed help so the dealer, through the Better Business

Bureau, agreed to finish starting the car. I had pulled off two

glow plug leads and left a fuel leak of some sort. The car ran but I

suspected that the diesel oxidation catalyst and diesel particulate filter

needed replacing. Carly f. BMW confirmed that. So I went to a tuner


near Atlanta who removed the two. The acting janitor asked me


to clean up the floor afterward. Wizard welded back up the container


so the car appears un-modified. ( I have a downpipe and signed a waiver.)


Soot gathered on the back of the car and the exhaust smelled. Since I


have driven a diesel for 43 years, I did not mind the smell. Don't stop


reading yet.



I make mistakes when I stay up late, and made two since then.


I accidentally applied 25 volt d.c. to the jump connector. My hand on


the wire notified me within a second or two. Now where did the


excess current go and what is damaged? Nothing obvious happened


for a while until I rushed to make a funeral when I should have taken


the Mercedes ( with seven-hundred-thousand miles ). Instead, the


battery was too low to start, although it spun the engine nicely.

I used a battery charger to help jump. It worked, I thought.


Returning, the engine quit without any preliminary warnings near an


Atlanta BMW dealer. They could not fix it and a hurricane was coming.

The car will drive almost a mile then quits. I have spent more months


trouble shooting. One possibility is the engine electronic control module


getting too hot at 80C. Another is the cable to fuse box connector.


And I cannot be sure whether a poison pill exists to stop the engine with the


differential pressure across the missing DOC and DPF. Most likely,


the charger spiked the engine and battery modules during a rushed start.


I will report success.

[alex sol]

wow still not fixed...

@monroe sounds like it is still not resolved

it's been a bit chilly here in Toronto so no rush to fix my daily D....

i don't quite understand the differential pressure switch

i tuned out the dpf and scr so can rule out the ecu wanting to shut down

my nox sensors unplugged also... tuned out

egr cooler and egr valve.. out

what about the good old fashioned diesel fuel filter? or faulty fuel relay?

[jomiri]

This thread has helped me, and I see it's become the mecca of "no start" threads, so I wanted to add my experience with my no-start in the hopes that maybe it'll help someone. Car is a 2011 335d with EGR deleted and JR stage 2 street (emissions intact minus EGR). Throughout the whole debacle, the car had full power and never had any SES lights or warnings.

To summarize what happened, I had some sort of failure in the fueling system (I think it was the LPFP), and something I did caused an air pocket in the system, which caused my no start.

Now for all the details. It all started in late 2017. I parked the car after a short drive and let it sit for maybe 45 minutes. I come out and it cranks just fine but doesn't start. Never gave an indication that it would start either. No signs of troubles, no codes, no indications anything went wrong. Diagnosis showed nothing out of the normal. After an hour or so of sitting, it starts and all was fine for the time being.

Fast forward a couple months. Nearly exactly the same scenario. Car sat for maybe 30 minutes after a long drive, it cranked but didn't start. This time I was hoping it would start on its own, so I let it sit for about 30 minutes and it started, lucky for me.

Now my luck takes a turn for the worse. It's about a year after the last scenario. I went on a LONG drive from NJ to CT. I stopped in a gas station for snacks. I come out maybe 10 minutes later and the car won't start. I let it sit the standard 30-60 minutes, but nothing changed. This is troubling since I was nearly 4 hours from my house. I tried diagnosing and various fixes for about the next 3 hours, but had no luck with anything. The car seemed perfect, but would just crank all day long. Long story short, I put an SOS out in the Facebook group (join the groups if you haven't) and a nearby member came to my rescue after my battery began to die. For some reason, the car got started with a jump from a X5 35d's battery (we also tried jump packs, but they did NOT work). With the car started, I said my thank you's and booked it back home, never shutting the car off. The whole time the car ran and drove 100%, no signs of anything off. I got the car home and stopped and started it again. It fired right up, but it always did after I had this issue. Sitting 15-60 minutes seemed to break it and also fix it. After sitting for the night, things took a turn for the worse (again). Now it would not start frequently, and whenever it felt like it, without rhyme or reason.

At this point, I ordered oem quality replacement parts for it based on my internet searches, since it still showed 0 issues and gave me nothing to go by. I ordered a cam sensor, crank sensor, ekpm3 module (aka fuel pump relay), fuel rail pressure sensor, low pressure fuel pump (in-tank), and fuel filter (old one was 30k miles old, not the best but I can promise there's been cars with worse).

I replaced the filter first. But when I reinstalled everything and primed, the fuel pump sounded very weak, so that got replaced as well. After that, I replaced the rail pressure sensor since I still had no fuel at the rail and I was banking on the HPFP being ok. After many minutes of cranking, the car actually started! But instead of starting on the 2nd or 3rd crank, it now started after about 7 SECONDS of cranking. Definitely odd. I took it for a test drive. Turns out I installed the rail pressure sensor wrong, it started leaking diesel everywhere and the car lost all power and stalled under throttle. I restarted it as quickly as I could and limped it back home. After parking it and letting it cool, it never started again. Ended up taking it to a shop, who told me there was a misfuel warning, but then found massive amounts of air in the lines after confirming I never misfueled it. After bleeding, it ran perfectly and does to this day. Still not sure what caused my initial issue. I'm guessing it was the LPFP, but something I did caused a huge pocket of air to be pushed to the HPFP and rail. I'm guessing it was something in my fuel filter installation since the rail sensor leak was more fuel coming out rather than air going in and I installed the filter completely dry and used the failing LPFP to prime it. Whatever it was, I'm glad it's in the past and I got my car working again.

Here's my lessons learned: don't ignore early signs of an issue, address it early and avoid being stranded and higher costs. Be very wary about getting air in the fuel system (embarrassing for me since I'm well aware of this and this isn't my first diesel. I never thought this was what was causing my no-start). When replacing the fuel filter, prime with the filter with the outlet draining into a waste container to be sure the air is out. Always be ready to diagnose with basics like a cable and software. The Facebook group is a great resource, but they can't be everywhere at all times, I was lucky I was near a good Samaritan who had time to help me out.

[nickhawaii]

Similar case for me, maybe somebody has suggestions...
2011 335D.

Purchased in non start condition. Cranks very nice, but won't start. No fault codes.

Jumped LPFP and get about 4L/min of diesel pumped before HPFP. Very low fuel pressure in rail, between 50-180 psi during cranking. Cracked lines going from rail to injectors while cranking, no fuel. Diagnostic: HPFP.

Purchased a rebuilt HPFP and installed it. Now I get up to 280psi in fuel rail while cranking and I also get fuel coming out when cracking the fuel lines to going to injectors. Still no start. I have no way to prime it as I don't have any pro BMW software.

Suggestions?
Injectors? Crank sensor? Fuel pressure sensor?

[B16]

You can manually prime by jumping the LPFP with 12v. I ended up buying a the cable to prime via software. Which I have for sale if you're interested for $40. lol.

https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1531481

[nickhawaii]

Tried priming by jumping LPFP....still no start.

Started dismantling stuff back again and trying to check on every connector.
Tested resistance on each injector and I get 182 Khoms...plus each injector connector gets voltage when I crank...

So I get diesel to the injectors. But do I get it at the required pressure is the question? Anybody have any experience regarding the Fuel Rail Pressure Regulator failure?

I could buy your cable, but I still don't have the software

[robnitro]

Nick also test each injector pin to ground and after double check the ground itself...

[nickhawaii]

LPFP ok
HPFP changed
Diesel gets to HPFP
Diesel gets to rail and injectors
Not enough pressure in fuel rail
Requested 400 bar
Actual 19 bar while cranking
Hard lines not clogged
FPR resistance 3.8-4.1 ohm
Starts with starter fluid
Injectors 3v while cranking
Injectors resistance ok

Any thoughts?