[MachWon]

Installed a UR charge pipe and Tial BOV on my car yesterday morning. Upon starting it, I immediately noticed the BOV was quiet, like REALLY quiet. I could not hear it at all while revving the car, and you have to be above 5 psi to even remotely hear it on the road. I checked all clamps, and all are tight.

After driving the car for a day, I am convinced I have a small leak somewhere. I switched to map 0, and my car hits 5.5 psi max, and feels sluggish until it gets into boost.

On map 5, the car hits and holds 15psi, but feels really sluggish until it gets there. It is like the car has lost the low end "kick" it had with the stock CP and DV's. I checked target boost, and it was below half on fuel gauge until I hit full boost, then it was right in the middle. The BOV also sounds like it has 2 stages to venting, and sometimes I can hear it flutter when letting off hard.

No codes at all. Does this sound like a small boost leak? If so, where should I check first?

[///Mposter]

Check the O-ring at the throttle body. Make sure you put the C-clip on first before pushing it on the throttle body to mate. You may have to reseat it again. Also the clamp you used on the other end should be secured and re-tightened as a heat cycle happens to ensure it is tight.

[gabylonfive]

Yup sounds like throttle body connection may not be secure. I'd check that first.

[MachWon]

My CP to TB connection is silicone... am I still supposed to be using the C-clip? I am confused as there is not really a groove for it like on the stock CP. I am running without it right now, and the TP > CP is secured with just a clamp.

Can I get a more detailed explanation please?

[mojobmw_e90]

Check the coupler by the front turbo intake.. Tends to slip off underneath

[MachWon]

Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90

Check the coupler by the front turbo intake.. Tends to slip off underneath

I don't believe I would hold 15+ psi if a coupler came off..

[LGCubana]

If you didn't buy a chargepipe that uses the C-clip, then no, you don't re-use it.
But Don't throw out the C-clip, it's an easy part to sell

Originally Posted by MachWon

My CP to TB connection is silicone... am I still supposed to be using the C-clip? I am confused as there is not really a groove for it like on the stock CP. I am running without it right now, and the TP > CP is secured with just a clamp.

Can I get a more detailed explanation please?

[MachWon]

Originally Posted by LGCubana

If you didn't buy a chargepipe that uses the C-clip, then no, you don't re-use it.
But Don't throw out the C-clip, it's an easy part to sell

That's what I thought. I went out and checked everything this morning, and nothing seemed loose. The clamps had a couple more turns in them after sitting, but definitely nothing that was causing a leak.

I can't hear the valve at all with radio on windows down. I don't want some obnoxiously loud sound, but I want it to work like it should. It is no louder than the stock DV's running VTA.

[MachWon]

UPDATE:

Finally got a 30ff code and the car is starting to lose boost, so I definitely have a leak somewhere.

What is the best way to find a boost leak WITHOUT removing the turbo inlet?

[tofu?]

Smoke test

[Mike@N54Tuning.com]

Originally Posted by ///Mposter

Check the O-ring at the throttle body. Make sure you put the C-clip on first before pushing it on the throttle body to mate. You may have to reseat it again. Also the clamp you used on the other end should be secured and re-tightened as a heat cycle happens to ensure it is tight.

+ check boring and make sure all clams are pretty tight at the other end of the charge pipe.

Mike

[buylongterm]

Originally Posted by LGCubana

If you didn't buy a chargepipe that uses the C-clip, then no, you don't re-use it.
But Don't throw out the C-clip, it's an easy part to sell

That "C-Clip" is like gold nugget. I recently lost mine when my CP busted, & after buying a VRSF Chargepipe (which doesn't come with one), I had to also buy a new OEM CP simply for the damn clip.

[MachWon]

Originally Posted by Mike@N54Tuning.com

+ check boring and make sure all clams are pretty tight at the other end of the charge pipe.

Mike

I have checked all clamps, had the charge pipe off twice, and I just can't find anything. My TB connector is silicone, so I don't use an o-ring correct?

[MachWon]

Bump, haven't had time to really chase this down but I did have a thought...

Could it be a failing/failed boost solenoid? Over time, I noticed my car was starting to make a metallic ticking sound, and I have read that a failing boost solenoid will make a similar noise. My ticking is loudest when stadium at the passenger mirrors, and is very faint when listening from the front with the hood open. I always thought it was just normal chatter until now.. anyone else have experience with this?

[anteuz]

Late to this thread but I installed a vrsf chargepipe and Tial bov hoping to get rid of the 30ff code that I sometimes get when pushing my car and instead of fixing it it's just a continuous 30ff code?

O ring?

Bov?

[relative4]

Did you smoke test before throwing parts at the problem? How bout after?

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by MachWon

Installed a UR charge pipe and Tial BOV on my car yesterday morning. Upon starting it, I immediately noticed the BOV was quiet, like REALLY quiet. I could not hear it at all while revving the car, and you have to be above 5 psi to even remotely hear it on the road. I checked all clamps, and all are tight.

After driving the car for a day, I am convinced I have a small leak somewhere. I switched to map 0, and my car hits 5.5 psi max, and feels sluggish until it gets into boost.

On map 5, the car hits and holds 15psi, but feels really sluggish until it gets there. It is like the car has lost the low end "kick" it had with the stock CP and DV's. I checked target boost, and it was below half on fuel gauge until I hit full boost, then it was right in the middle. The BOV also sounds like it has 2 stages to venting, and sometimes I can hear it flutter when letting off hard.

No codes at all. Does this sound like a small boost leak? If so, where should I check first?

Do you have a log?

Have you checked your vacuum lines, cannisters?

Have a read through this guide...

https://bmwtuning.co/bmw-n54-30ff-en...-repair-guide/

[anteuz]

Originally Posted by anteuz

Late to this thread but I installed a vrsf chargepipe and Tial bov hoping to get rid of the 30ff code that I sometimes get when pushing my car and instead of fixing it it's just a continuous 30ff code?

O ring?

Bov?

So last night after a couple of drinks I took everything off and re assembled got the same problem so I took my bov apart and it needed to be lubricated the piston would not move before also the O ring on the base of the bov was placed funny now I have no boost leaks everything is working perfectly

Currently hitting 12psi on jb4 map 1

[anteuz]

[IMG][/IMG] my friend got this to pop up any ideas what it could be?

[Bimmer_Bro]

Originally Posted by anteuz

So last night after a couple of drinks I took everything off and re assembled got the same problem so I took my bov apart and it needed to be lubricated the piston would not move before also the O ring on the base of the bov was placed funny now I have no boost leaks everything is working perfectly

Currently hitting 12psi on jb4 map 1

Glad you solved the issue.
I see you are running a tail bov. Have you upgraded the vacuum line to it? It needs a larger line that the stock 3.5mm. I believe the vacuum line to the top needs to be a 6mm to operate the bov correctly.
If you haven't already upgraded the line I suggest this kit:

https://burgertuning.com/collections...vacuum-adapter


Also the symbol you showed is for the micro filter (Cabin filter). Could be clogged or need replacing.

[Saif2018]

Originally Posted by anteuz

[IMG][/IMG] my friend got this to pop up any ideas what it could be?

Cabin microfilter warning light, just replace and reset light.

Best to get the carbon ones, better at blocking vehicle fumes, but normal pollen filter will do as well.

[anteuz]

Originally Posted by Bimmer_Bro

Glad you solved the issue.
I see you are running a tail bov. Have you upgraded the vacuum line to it? It needs a larger line that the stock 3.5mm. I believe the vacuum line to the top needs to be a 6mm to operate the bov correctly.
If you haven't already upgraded the line I suggest this kit:

https://burgertuning.com/collections...vacuum-adapter


Also the symbol you showed is for the micro filter (Cabin filter). Could be clogged or need replacing.

Thanks ! Yeah I actually ended up getting the Vader solutions kit