[PhaseP]

Dude you had 2D06 code right? That indicates either faulty Maf sensor or electrical connection to it is bad. My understanding this code means computer received a value from sensor that corresponds way too much air , like impossible amount. You in the past replaced your sensor and didn't cute it. So why don't you try the most obvious clean or replace your electrical connector?

[alx.]

Originally Posted by PhaseP

Dude you had 2D06 code right? That indicates either faulty Maf sensor or electrical connection to it is bad. My understanding this code means computer received a value from sensor that corresponds way too much air , like impossible amount. You in the past replaced your sensor and didn't cute it. So why don't you try the most obvious clean or replace your electrical connector?

Hi Phase, the connector looks good, it doesn't look faulty and the old MAF throws no code, only when i plug in the new maf do i get 2D06. This points to a vacuum leak or perhaps a bad valve.

[PhaseP]

Originally Posted by alx.

Hi Phase, the connector looks good, it doesn't look faulty and the old MAF throws no code, only when i plug in the new maf do i get 2D06. This points to a vacuum leak or perhaps a bad valve.

The connector will look good, you cannot judge by its looks. I had similar problem if not same symptoms like you, didn't suspect the connection tried lots of other things and eventually found for good that it was the electrical connection. It has been 3 weeks I replaced my Maf connector housing and cleaned the pins real good in the process and I have had no issues since.
There are four things going on I believe: the internal springs of the pins get looser as this connection is undone and done due to it being on the way for many jobs to work on the car. The second the connector housing also gets s little sloppy in there again for same reason. Third by time some corrosion, dirt, oil later builds up on the connections, you cannot visually see these. Fourth the MAF connection side pins look too thin to me from production to give good contact.
A good cleaning with a good purpose contact cleaner cleans them up. Opening the connector housing allows full access to the pins for cleaning.
My two cents, easy to test , and I believe many of those complaining about idle issues may be easily fixing them with this.
Vacuum leak will cause lean codes.

[alx.]

Took the intake off today and the valves looked extremely clean. Intake is crack/leak free. Also checked on the DISA valves and they are very stiff(they don't have any play or move at all). I was thinking about the ECC or perhaps the fuel pressure regulator / fuel filter as i doubt they have been changed.

[alx.]

I'll go ahead and fix the maf connector. In the meantime, anyone know if the bosch spark plugs part # 0242236510 are any good for these cars? I did not gap them, mind you.

I understand that could be an issue, can anyone tell me if ngk code # ILZFR6D11 come pre-gapped?

[alx.]

Apparently the spark plugs i installed have a 0.4 inch gap(1 mm) which would be the correct specification.

[Suhb]

Newest plug for our engine is lzfr6ap11gs
Gap is 0.044
They come pregapped and are not recommended to be altered with

[alx.]

Originally Posted by Suhb

Newest plug for our engine is lzfr6ap11gs
Gap is 0.044
They come pregapped and are not recommended to be altered with

These would 100% fit my 2007 n52 325i?

[alx.]

To update everyone: this issue was finally fixed after changing the MAF sensor AND the fuel pump. Car now runs stronger than ever with no rough idle.

Cliffs on what was changed in the past year:
- Coils
- Spark plugs
- Both solenoids brand new
- MAF
- Fuel pump
- o2s pre cat
- PCV + hoses
Total price of the above parts was around $1000 including labour.

What i'll do next: Valve stem seals next week as the car smokes and eats a lot of oil. Around 500 ml/1500 KM.

In romania the price for the stem seals replacement will be around $207 usd with parts and labour.

All in all i'm pretty satisfied with the car.

[alx.]

Valve seals are here



Will come back with reviews about the oil consumption.

[lwarren0074]

E91 – Sports Wagon / Engine = N52K

Feb 2017 – 144,000 miles; 95% Freeway daily driving; Always top-tier gas; Pulls strong so I don’t suspect a vacuum leak.

Symptoms

1st: Every once in a while the car would shut-off after driving freeway speeds and then coming to a stop. Either after exiting the freeway at a stop light, or stopping due to traffic on the freeway. A real PIA. No codes, no lights
2nd: One day the car was idling low and vibrating hard upon start-up. The check engine light came on and I was able to limp to a Firestone to get the code read. If I remember correctly it was P0012 ‘A’ Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1). They were able to change the Intake Camshaft Sensor and I was able to carry-on the next day.

Secondary Symptoms

After having the Intake Camshaft Sensor replaced, the car seemed to idle a bit lower, and shut-off twice. Once due to low idle and the second after coming to a stop on the freeway due to traffic. It then idled hard through traffic, but didn’t notice much once traffic was moving again.

But the car was harder to start. With a newly replaced (< 1year) starter, the car had a few “ka-ka-ka-ka-Vroom” upon start-up. Where before it would immediately start-up. No codes, no lights.

Possible remedy

After reading the posts about VANOS solenoids, rough idling, and the like, I cleaned and swapped the VANOS solenoids. This was my first thought because since the oil filter gasket was leaking, it had been throwing tiny specs of oil for some time and collecting dirt all over the VANOS connections and gaskets. I figured that over time those gaskets may have corroded some and that oily dirt may have found its way inside the VANOS causing my problems. I was able to blow out what looked like gunk from the solenoids, but maybe just specs of oil.

Results

After cleaning and swapping VANOS, the car immediately fired up like it used to before. The next morning it had a little slower start, but not like before. Solved? I guess only time will tell. Double checked the hose connections around the MAF and throttle body and it’s all tight.

Help from the Community

Without throwing money at random sensors and parts, does my experience mirror anyone else’s? I am considering changing the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor because changing pairs of sensors always seems to be better. Please, throw out some ideas.


2014 Repairs
Battery replaced

2015 Repairs
1 of 6 coils replaced
All new spark plugs
Starter replaced
K&N filter installed
Regular oil changes

[alx.]

Originally Posted by lwarren0074

E91 – Sports Wagon / Engine = N52K

Feb 2017 – 144,000 miles; 95% Freeway daily driving; Always top-tier gas; Pulls strong so I don’t suspect a vacuum leak.

Symptoms

1st: Every once in a while the car would shut-off after driving freeway speeds and then coming to a stop. Either after exiting the freeway at a stop light, or stopping due to traffic on the freeway. A real PIA. No codes, no lights
2nd: One day the car was idling low and vibrating hard upon start-up. The check engine light came on and I was able to limp to a Firestone to get the code read. If I remember correctly it was P0012 ‘A’ Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1). They were able to change the Intake Camshaft Sensor and I was able to carry-on the next day.

Secondary Symptoms

After having the Intake Camshaft Sensor replaced, the car seemed to idle a bit lower, and shut-off twice. Once due to low idle and the second after coming to a stop on the freeway due to traffic. It then idled hard through traffic, but didn’t notice much once traffic was moving again.

But the car was harder to start. With a newly replaced (< 1year) starter, the car had a few “ka-ka-ka-ka-Vroom” upon start-up. Where before it would immediately start-up. No codes, no lights.

Possible remedy

After reading the posts about VANOS solenoids, rough idling, and the like, I cleaned and swapped the VANOS solenoids. This was my first thought because since the oil filter gasket was leaking, it had been throwing tiny specs of oil for some time and collecting dirt all over the VANOS connections and gaskets. I figured that over time those gaskets may have corroded some and that oily dirt may have found its way inside the VANOS causing my problems. I was able to blow out what looked like gunk from the solenoids, but maybe just specs of oil.

Results

After cleaning and swapping VANOS, the car immediately fired up like it used to before. The next morning it had a little slower start, but not like before. Solved? I guess only time will tell. Double checked the hose connections around the MAF and throttle body and it’s all tight.

Help from the Community

Without throwing money at random sensors and parts, does my experience mirror anyone else’s? I am considering changing the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor because changing pairs of sensors always seems to be better. Please, throw out some ideas.


2014 Repairs
Battery replaced

2015 Repairs
1 of 6 coils replaced
All new spark plugs
Starter replaced
K&N filter installed
Regular oil changes

Sounds like a maf issue to me, specially if it turns off and you have a rough start. Try cleaning it with some maf cleaner, it's very easy. If not, i purchased new solenoids(i don't believe in cleaning them and swapping). How are the cylinder readings? Download INPA and check them at idle and during driving.

[BMW 420i]

Originally Posted by lwarren0074

E91 – Sports Wagon / Engine = N52K

Feb 2017 – 144,000 miles; 95% Freeway daily driving; Always top-tier gas; Pulls strong so I don’t suspect a vacuum leak.

Symptoms

1st: Every once in a while the car would shut-off after driving freeway speeds and then coming to a stop. Either after exiting the freeway at a stop light, or stopping due to traffic on the freeway. A real PIA. No codes, no lights
2nd: One day the car was idling low and vibrating hard upon start-up. The check engine light came on and I was able to limp to a Firestone to get the code read. If I remember correctly it was P0012 ‘A’ Camshaft Position Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1). They were able to change the Intake Camshaft Sensor and I was able to carry-on the next day.

Secondary Symptoms

After having the Intake Camshaft Sensor replaced, the car seemed to idle a bit lower, and shut-off twice. Once due to low idle and the second after coming to a stop on the freeway due to traffic. It then idled hard through traffic, but didn’t notice much once traffic was moving again.

But the car was harder to start. With a newly replaced (< 1year) starter, the car had a few “ka-ka-ka-ka-Vroom” upon start-up. Where before it would immediately start-up. No codes, no lights.

Possible remedy

After reading the posts about VANOS solenoids, rough idling, and the like, I cleaned and swapped the VANOS solenoids. This was my first thought because since the oil filter gasket was leaking, it had been throwing tiny specs of oil for some time and collecting dirt all over the VANOS connections and gaskets. I figured that over time those gaskets may have corroded some and that oily dirt may have found its way inside the VANOS causing my problems. I was able to blow out what looked like gunk from the solenoids, but maybe just specs of oil.

Results

After cleaning and swapping VANOS, the car immediately fired up like it used to before. The next morning it had a little slower start, but not like before. Solved? I guess only time will tell. Double checked the hose connections around the MAF and throttle body and it’s all tight.

Help from the Community

Without throwing money at random sensors and parts, does my experience mirror anyone else’s? I am considering changing the Exhaust Camshaft Sensor because changing pairs of sensors always seems to be better. Please, throw out some ideas.


2014 Repairs
Battery replaced

2015 Repairs
1 of 6 coils replaced
All new spark plugs
Starter replaced
K&N filter installed
Regular oil changes

Sounds very familiar. After doing what you are doing, my problem turned out to be the plastic mesh filter holder in the oil filter housing cap. If that is missing or the little o-ring is pooched it doesn't seal to hold in crankcase pressure at low idle and starts throwing cps/vanos codes, causes stumbling idle, stalls while stopping. Check it, it's 2 minutes and can save you a lot of money.

[tpmmazo]

Originally Posted by BMW 420i

Sounds very familiar. After doing what you are doing, my problem turned out to be the plastic mesh filter holder in the oil filter housing cap. If that is missing or the little o-ring is pooched it doesn't seal to hold in crankcase pressure at low idle and starts throwing cps/vanos codes, causes stumbling idle, stalls while stopping. Check it, it's 2 minutes and can save you a lot of money.

What part exactly are you reffering to. I have high crankcase pressure and vanos codes and stalling coming to a stop after replacing the pcv valve.

[Saico]

@alx. Did you finally replace valve stems? Did it help with oil consumption?

[juld0zer]

Originally Posted by tpmmazo

What part exactly are you reffering to. I have high crankcase pressure and vanos codes and stalling coming to a stop after replacing the pcv valve.

The middle part of the oil filter cap.

[Thebimmer57]

So whats the cost of an ecu upgrade from bmw outside warranty, anyone know?

[rizah]

(Doesn’t let me show vid pictures in order of vid)
Would this be camshaft position sensor?
Or is this cylinder missfire