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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Control Arm Bushing Upgrade for XI?
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06-11-2017, 11:23 AM | #177 |
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I assume you mean the OD of the poly part that goes into the control arm? Or do you mean the OD of the ends of it that stick past the ID of the control arm's race?
I could measure the latter but not the former.
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BMS DCI, BMS OCC, VRSF stepped 5" FMIC, VRSF CP, VRSF DP's, SPEC stage 3+ and SMFW, PRW stage 3 LPFP, MHD custom E85 tune, solid motor mounts, RB PCV valve, SS brake lines, Prospeed RS683 brake fluid, Strongflex poly bushings, VTT inlets, M3 rear control arms, ECS trailing arms, turbo smart DV's, CP-E PI, VTT HS CP, UUC short shifter, custom solid transfer-case mount, RBTurbo vacuum side OCC, PRW upgraded ignition coils.
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06-14-2017, 05:20 PM | #179 | |
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Use 95A Durometer which is only about 5mm thick between the inner bushing and the outer press in wall of the bushing. I like solid bushings here but NVH is an issue. By introducing a very thin 95A poly core it would solve the NVH issues and it would make an enormous difference in handling. The yellow Strongflex ones are nice, but they still flex too much. I'm almost tempted to go with UHMW at this point. Maybe what we need is OE style outer, with the bushing like the Strngflex, but a two part UHMW core. It may be time to talk to my machinist. |
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06-25-2017, 09:43 AM | #180 |
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I put the red bushings in. I am lucky work has a solid Snap-on puller set. I used a 1/2in drive air impact to get the old bushings out, but it still took quite a time. The bench vise was perfect for pressing the new bushings in. Keep em straight, and they'll suck right in.
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07-05-2017, 02:23 PM | #181 | |
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BTW, the RWD and AWD bushing is the same OD. The only difference is the width. The RWD bushings are 10mm wider than AWD. See post #36. I honestly don't see the benefit for you to produce these. With strongflex making them and RWD being easily modified to fit AWD, it's just not worth it. |
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07-20-2017, 07:33 AM | #182 |
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How do the red powerflex bushings ride and handle potholes and such?
I know normal bushings are fairly brutal when you hit the occasional hole to hell. |
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07-23-2017, 12:23 PM | #183 |
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If anyone is interested in a set:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1403844 |
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08-14-2017, 09:24 AM | #184 |
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Ive read through the majority of this thread. Is there a way to replace the ball joint on the opposite end of the arm without replacing the entire arm? I'm already tracking the correct p/n's for the strongflex bushing.
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08-14-2017, 11:15 AM | #185 | |
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Are you talking about the wishbone (31126768989) ? |
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08-15-2017, 09:27 AM | #187 |
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08-17-2017, 12:00 PM | #188 |
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Yellow are stiffer than red.
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2011 335Xi 6AT - VRSF catless DP - VRSF 7" FMIC with turbo inlet pipe - VRSF chargepipe - Pure Stage 1 turbo - JB4 - E30 - xHP Stage 3 - Strongflex tension bushings - Whiteline RSFB - UUC rear swaybar
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10-11-2017, 03:44 PM | #190 |
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Received my yellow bushings from strong flex. Will I be able to use a standard bench press to remove the old bushings (3.0 inch hole saw recommended above( and press the new yellow bushings in? Or is this more of a pain?
I’d get my car on jacks and look myself, but I’m waiting for a garage roof repair to be finished before I can do the relacement. |
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10-12-2017, 09:07 AM | #191 | |
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Quote:
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2011 335Xi 6AT - VRSF catless DP - VRSF 7" FMIC with turbo inlet pipe - VRSF chargepipe - Pure Stage 1 turbo - JB4 - E30 - xHP Stage 3 - Strongflex tension bushings - Whiteline RSFB - UUC rear swaybar
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10-12-2017, 11:45 AM | #192 |
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It’s a hydraulic press. Thanks for the info! I’ll hit you up if I have any questions if you don’t mind!
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10-15-2017, 02:11 PM | #193 |
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I got my 12 ton press and everything set up. Got the drivers side arm off and used the recommended 3 inch hole saw and also tried 3” stainless exhaust pipe. Neither worked..... the stock bushings are seized pretty well. I actually bent the exhaust pipe and damaged the hole saw trying to budge it. Any ideas?
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10-15-2017, 03:44 PM | #194 | |
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http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1114977 I had not used a receiver, instead very carefully placed the arbor plates on the triangle cut sections under the arm. When driving old one out, this is easier since old one is sticking out, I just pushed the arbor plates triangle sections until they touched the sticking out bushing. When driving the new one in, it is more difficult to place them exactly so that they will hold the arm but not be in the way of the bushing that will come out. But I had it worked for me. This is how I did it, do it or not at your own risk. The arbor plates free ends may come up and plates may slide out forciably under force, so again there are risks and I am only conveying how I did it. I would try to use exhaust section as receiver, or something else like that would be better. You can try tree jaw puller also http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm The 2" conduit piece matches perfectly though for any of these techiniques as a driver. |
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10-16-2017, 11:24 AM | #195 | |
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Quote:
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2011 335Xi 6AT - VRSF catless DP - VRSF 7" FMIC with turbo inlet pipe - VRSF chargepipe - Pure Stage 1 turbo - JB4 - E30 - xHP Stage 3 - Strongflex tension bushings - Whiteline RSFB - UUC rear swaybar
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10-17-2017, 12:57 AM | #196 |
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I appreciate everyone’s posts and assistance. I tried the sawzall method before I ran out to get the pipe for the other method.
Sawzall method worked great and had both stock bushings out within 20 minutes. Very easy. Greased the strong flex bushings up and pressed then into the arms using a vise. Worked great and learned that they will most certainly “suck” right into the arms even if they aren’t perfectly straight. Test drive the car about 30 minutes later and am very surprised at how much of a difference they make in tightness and steering feel. Absolutely worth the small amount of money and medium amount of work involved. Again, thanks everyone! |
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10-19-2017, 09:54 PM | #197 | |
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The only thing I'm not doing with the stiffer poly is the rear subframe, which I'm doing with billet aluminum. All the new M cars have solid bushings and I have not noticed any NVH change in cars with solid rear subframe bushings, and the handling is night and day better. The only bushing that I can tell has any contribution to NVH is the rear diff carrier bushing, and the yellow is fine there too.
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10-19-2017, 09:56 PM | #198 |
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Exactly how we do cutlass bearings. Works a treat!
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