[bilbobagends]

I have a bone stock 07 e92 6MT RWD with 140k miles. By bone stock i mean nothing done to it at all. Im about to pull the trigger on a 6466 doc race top mount kit, but wanted some advice beforehand. The car has no jb4, no mhd, no intakes charge pipes or anything, so what is the best way to go about this?

What im trying to understand more than anything is how does going from bone stock to a single turbo swap differ from going fbo jb4 to single turbo software wise.

Should I start with the vrsf charge pipe/ tial bov?

I know it’ll have to be tuned once the kit is on, but should i flash it with a jb4 or mhd tune beforehand? Would starting the ST kit for the first time on a stock tune be bad news?

So far i’m planning on ordering the vrsf 7.5” stepped IC, vrsf charge pipe and bov, and the precision raceworks upgraded lpfp

Is there anything else that I need to look into or consider? I think the kit comes with some kind of catless downpipe, and I know ill need a jb4/mhd or maybe both lol

Appreciate any advice or help!

[oVeRdOsE.]

like any projects, depends on your goals and budget.

A lot of people will tell you go big or go home, but imo this make no more sense when a 335 nowadays are around 5-10k$.

1- go big
2- go smaller and reliable and leave it
3- go smaller and improve the built each year.


1 - big I mean : index12 (or delete kit), 7'' IC, port injection (or meth), dual fuel pump, aftermarket ignition coils, last gen HPFP, reflex engine management, dual catch can, 3.5'' exhaust, clutch kit, all maintenance done (water pump, seals, rod bearings, pcv), etc.

I mean this is endless, especially if you want to built the bottom and close deck... can be 15-20k$ easy in parts alone.

2- Since those car are old, and people want to have fun, you still can go small. MHD custom tune and full licence to monitor (no need of a jb4). Keep an eye on older injectors, upgrade the spark plug, put Eldor ignition coils.

A friend dont use any boost management, he put a 13psi spring on his waste gate, and run the car like this on a used franken single turbo kit. All stock but charge pipe. Even fuelling is stock.

A 6466 is a bit big for a fun-n'-cheap setup.

3- The route I went.

I did the basics, went with a smaller T4 turbo, and plan to upgrade it through the years.
For now : index12, gen3 hpfp, eldor, direct injection only, JB4 with a backendflash, 5'' intercooler, twindisk clutch kit, single bank fueling, charge pipe with ebay bov, ebay CC, dummy water meth kit. On all stock engine and fuel system.

[Mustafa.e92]

Response above should awnser all your questions but I’ll just list some things that come to mind.
I’d hold off on index 12’s and hpfp as we should have dme controlled full port injection over the winter. Lots of money that could be saved their.
6466 will be fine little more laggy but lots of headway for the future. I daily drive my 6266 I get full boost around 3700 if I dog it from like 2400rpm in third. When she spools it comes in hard with a single setup. It’s really not that bad but I do have a smaller turbo AR. if I punch it on the highway in 6th gear it builds 15 psi no problem by low 3000’s.
In my opinion Precision turbos suck if that’s what’s on the kit. I would get a Garret or atleast something that is also water cooled and ball bearing.
Docrace had issues with their original turbo drain melting so make sure that’s updated or upgrade to a braided line.
I’d pull the motor do all the common maintiance. First comp and leak down test to make sure engine is healthy. Look through filter make sure oil looks clean too. Can send a oil analysis if you want I did before I went single everything checked out for me.
Oil pan, ofhg, spark plugs (gapped), coils (eldors or oe type), pulleys,belt,engine mounts, waterpump, coolant hoses ect
Switch to mhd and go single bank fueling.
-reliable tuner have it ready and flashed before first start. Make sure to disconnect fuel pump and crank engine to get oil to turbo before you do the first start.
-Get a turbo blanket and heat wrap for the downpipes
-dei heat sleeve for turbo feed lines
-I have some heat wrap on the ground, ac, and brake line because they run right beside the downpipe and turbo
-good wastegate like a tial
-boost control mac solenoid can go with a GFB3 or boost control through mhd
-clutch kit, smfw, steel pivot pin, trans fluid
- walnut blast, block head ports, external pcv setup if going aftermarket metal valve cover. If topmount Plastic ones melt people here seem to disagree but I can post some pictures of it.
- I have a 335D intake scoop cuz that’s what I had laying around
-fuel pump,intercooler,charge pipe bov, 3.5bar tmap can be done after if you want. Can use stock coolant resivoir relocated but it looks like shit. Some guys run the 335d tank and charge pipe. If ur balling can get the turner tank
-nexus oil pressure sensor. (Really reccomend this one)

I’d hold off on the build until you have most parts. That’s the issue with most of the n54 community. Everybody’s in a rush to make power instead of doing it right and developing the car over time. These cars are old things need refresh you can do it once and enjoy the car or keep having to go back and fix things every weekend. I have 35,000 kms on my single turbo build and haven’t really done shit but oil changes and spark plugs.
Hope it helps

[oVeRdOsE.]

nice write up.

I agree people rush things up.

Also , the info is all over the place. I had to do a complete excel sheet, price, pros and cons to understand what will be the best option.

Because a lot of options and parts are available for N54.

And I read people having perfect experience on chinesium 19T s and some got major issues with reputable kits like speedtech.
You need to read between the lines where the owner fails to tell you something, and mainly they fail on the basics ; mod and/or maintenance.
Often knowledge too, when you go BEF (backendflash) you can street tune the car without any tuner, but if you dont understand it's easy to overboost on a lean scenario...


* tks mustafa, good point to add some wrap on A/c and brake line. I did the wiring, but skip those. Ill address during holidays.

[Jaronbwall]

Check your bank account because it's going to be more expensive than you think.

[Mustafa.e92]

Thanks, Yup that’s the thing a lot of common failure points even if their fine right now with a stock car they will not last when you crank things up. Weak points will show and we have enough knowledge on the platform to know exactly what will fail. Other platforms like a b58 you can take a full stock car throw like 5 parts at it and have 600whp comfortably all day.

I completely agree on the amount of parts I spent a few months before pick and choosing what things I wanted. I’m happy with everything other than the catchcans which I should have went with radium for. Vtt is fine no issues but the quality does not justify the price.

Yup as overdose said lots of mixed opinions online. People like pointing fingers. I’ve had a few customers with china turbos apparently they have gotten better over time and their are certain ones you want to avoid. Quality control and the turbo balancing has improved. 11 blades don’t balance nice the 6x6 are ussually better. IMO china turbos are only worth it if you do your own work. I’ve seen them last 10,000-50,000 kms. Ussually the oil seals will go on those and they will smoke like a freight train.

Yeah dei makes some great heat sleeve make sure it’s the fire wrap.

I have a speed tech and it’s what I would reccomend to most people unless your going after sounds. Cannot beat a tubular manifold. Much better heat management and space with the speedtech. Way easier to install and remove too.
OP If you need some help feel free to reach out

[oVeRdOsE.]

Originally Posted by Jaronbwall

Check your back account because it's going to be more expensive than you think.

100%.

but in the mean time, there's not tons of option with : ''modern commodity'' + manual + 600whp .

Even the popular golf R mk7 will cost wayyy more to reach 400awhp.
JDM is crazy since covid.

The next best thing is LSx swap something cheap.
Of course you have other option, but as commun than a e90 ? with all this support and parts available? doubt.

B8 s4 wont reach that power . Maybe a 340 with B58, but does the manual will hold 600whp? and they are not cheap with the 6mt (rare)

Right now, Ill run around 20k$cad (including the car) for a fully loaded E91 no rust with a low mileage N54 single turbo swap. Around 600bhp.

[Jaronbwall]

oVeRdOsE. Completely agree. From a used sportscar to new it's not even a question. I'd rather budget build something fun. The price for a fun car in 2024 is crazy! That's why I keep holding onto my 335i. Nothing makes 400hp, 30mpg hwy, manual, for the price I paid. You're looking at $40-60k cars all day long at the dealerships. Finance it and it hurts even more. No thank you.

[SlowE92]

Originally Posted by Mustafa.e92

Response above should awnser all your questions but I’ll just list some things that come to mind.
I’d hold off on index 12’s and hpfp as we should have dme controlled full port injection over the winter. Lots of money that could be saved their.
6466 will be fine little more laggy but lots of headway for the future. I daily drive my 6266 I get full boost around 3700 if I dog it from like 2400rpm in third. When she spools it comes in hard with a single setup. It’s really not that bad but I do have a smaller turbo AR. if I punch it on the highway in 6th gear it builds 15 psi no problem by low 3000’s.
In my opinion Precision turbos suck if that’s what’s on the kit. I would get a Garret or atleast something that is also water cooled and ball bearing.
Docrace had issues with their original turbo drain melting so make sure that’s updated or upgrade to a braided line.
I’d pull the motor do all the common maintiance. First comp and leak down test to make sure engine is healthy. Look through filter make sure oil looks clean too. Can send a oil analysis if you want I did before I went single everything checked out for me.
Oil pan, ofhg, spark plugs (gapped), coils (eldors or oe type), pulleys,belt,engine mounts, waterpump, coolant hoses ect
Switch to mhd and go single bank fueling.
-reliable tuner have it ready and flashed before first start. Make sure to disconnect fuel pump and crank engine to get oil to turbo before you do the first start.
-Get a turbo blanket and heat wrap for the downpipes
-dei heat sleeve for turbo feed lines
-I have some heat wrap on the ground, ac, and brake line because they run right beside the downpipe and turbo
-good wastegate like a tial
-boost control mac solenoid can go with a GFB3 or boost control through mhd
-clutch kit, smfw, steel pivot pin, trans fluid
- walnut blast, block head ports, external pcv setup if going aftermarket metal valve cover. If topmount Plastic ones melt people here seem to disagree but I can post some pictures of it.
- I have a 335D intake scoop cuz that’s what I had laying around
-fuel pump,intercooler,charge pipe bov, 3.5bar tmap can be done after if you want. Can use stock coolant resivoir relocated but it looks like shit. Some guys run the 335d tank and charge pipe. If ur balling can get the turner tank
-nexus oil pressure sensor. (Really reccomend this one)

I’d hold off on the build until you have most parts. That’s the issue with most of the n54 community. Everybody’s in a rush to make power instead of doing it right and developing the car over time. These cars are old things need refresh you can do it once and enjoy the car or keep having to go back and fix things every weekend. I have 35,000 kms on my single turbo build and haven’t really done shit but oil changes and spark plugs.
Hope it helps

Not to thread jack but what valve cover and injector cover is that, where did you get them? Your setup looks amazing.

[Mustafa.e92]

Originally Posted by SlowE92

Not to thread jack but what valve cover and injector cover is that, where did you get them? Your setup looks amazing.

Thank you, it is a m18 valve cover with their coil cover. I also have some of the harness redone to tuck wiring

[bilbobagends]

Appreciate all the input! This was great to read and i'll definetly make sure to source everything first before going ahead with the build. I've gotten the IC/rad/CP/DP and MHD license for now so ill slowly work my way up there and get started on the single build the end of summer