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Questions on tuning
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06-26-2013, 12:40 PM | #1 |
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Questions on tuning
So on friday i am getting the cobb ap and a fmic. The hiy at vac motorsports suggested a charge pipe, is that really necessary? To my understanding, the ap tune and fmic are the two standard things needed for good and safe performance, and all the other stuff isnt necessary, just extra. I am just getting the tune and the fmic, is there anything else i will need that i dont know about?
I was lookong at conns website, and with the AP and fmic, it looks like tunning the stage 1 + fmic map os the best performance map. However it says linear throttle and raised rev limiter. I am very new to this and did search, just couldnt find my answers. What do these two things mean? Thanks |
06-26-2013, 01:08 PM | #3 |
Leeeroy Jankins
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Save some questions for when you actually have it! I think your asking great questions but will realize some of these questions/concerns get answered once you start messing around with your cobb. I suggest you drive around with the cobb on a stage 1 map for a good 100mi so you see how crazy a difference you get adding the FMIC!
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06-26-2013, 01:10 PM | #4 |
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assuming that you are going to use the tune to up the boost on your car i would say go for an aftermarket charge pipe, the stock one works for stock boost levels but anything beyond that it can break the C clip and start to pop off. Plus an aftermarket charge pipe will prevent things like boost leaks etc.
I used to think running jb4 and a few other bolt on mods and a little more boost would not make a difference and then one day on WOT the charge pipe popped off and broke my tmap sensor, so in short i guess you dont have to but running higher boost levels youre better off doing so. |
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06-26-2013, 01:20 PM | #6 |
Leeeroy Jankins
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Some FMIC will require you to upgrade the charge pipe
http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-7-front-mount-intercooler-fmic-kit-135i-335i-n54-e82-e90-e92.html
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e90 LCI w/ -= VRSF 7" FMIC =-
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06-26-2013, 01:22 PM | #7 |
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You dont "need" an upgraded CP, it just removes a potential issue down the road. Its your call really.
Stg1+ will be the best map for your car, assuming you still have the OEM downpipes. Its a pretty solid map, i was impressed considering its an off the shelf map. Raised rev limiter is self explanatory, but irrelevant. You shouldnt be shifting past 6.5K, the powerband is weak at that point. Linear vs stock throttle is pretty simple, linear attempts to replicate a more...well...linear powerband. Cobbs website probably explains it better. |
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06-26-2013, 01:33 PM | #8 |
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I am planning on running stage 1+ fmic aggresssive. So the raises rev limiter doesnt do anything different to the car or anything? Im not really understanding the raises rev limiter thing
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06-26-2013, 02:40 PM | #9 |
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lol dude, if you have't figured out the difference between LT and ST yet, or what a "raised limiter" does, how can you possibly trust yourself to tune your own car? lol negligent You should be at the stage where you're asking about reading datalogs, not rudimentary fundamentals.
There is literally a post ~5 threads down that discusses this...and another about 1000 pages long that discusses the rest. For the love of God; figure some of this stuff out on your own by READING WHATS ALREADY BEEN DISCUSSED A MILLION TIMES before you blow something up. |
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06-26-2013, 03:33 PM | #10 |
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So i called vac mototsports and cobb, and they both recommended just the ap tune for me. I in no way beat my car or have plans on tracking, they said for a nice hp gain i could go with the ap tune itself and just use stage 1 non aggressive. They said no fmic or any other mod needs to be done...does this sound right and are there a good amount of people just using the ap tune and nothing else?
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06-26-2013, 03:49 PM | #11 | |
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Oh and before you start a thread on how to data log : http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696472
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06-26-2013, 03:52 PM | #12 |
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That is exactly what i am going to do. I was getting in wayyyy over my head truing to learn and do too much at once. I will get the ap tune and have fun with that.
Sorry for being a pain, there was just so mich information, and being that i dont kkow engines, i wanted to make sure i was taking the right steps and not doin anything stupid. I certainly wouldnt want to mess something up due to ignorance...ive been down that road, i like to have my facts straight |
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06-26-2013, 03:55 PM | #13 | |
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06-26-2013, 03:58 PM | #14 | |
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Yes there have been cases of stock CP's cracking or failing but i doubt you will have an issue running Stage 1 or 2 tune. Save the CP money and get catless DPs you will thank me. CP is one of those things like tires, you can always upgrade them but you may as well get the use out of them first then upgrade later
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06-26-2013, 04:05 PM | #15 |
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Raised rev limiter means it will let you rev a little higher. Not needed for most twin setups on our platform unless you get up to VS3 turbos or you have a big single turbo set up. At those levels you make more power up high
You dont need to worry about that though now. You will make peak HP at 5800-6300 RPM and fall off fast after that
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06-26-2013, 04:37 PM | #16 | |
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5 years I've been running 18+ psi with no problems with the charge pipe. |
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06-26-2013, 05:50 PM | #18 |
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you have to remember... with a tune means you'll be paying more out of pocket indirectly. i.e. running higher boost = more potential for the turbos to go and any other parts that can break due to heavier output. spent money on more tires since youll most likely be burning more rubber... etc etc.
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