[iqraceworks]

This weekend my plan is to replace the oem subframe bushings in my 07' 335i with the whiteline black bushings, and also install the M3 rear arms.

I already have the exhaust off, and shields pulled off. The plan is to unhook the driveshaft from the transmission and leave it hooked to the diff and drop the entire subframe down along with the driveshaft.

Any tips and tricks for getting the subframe off? I know the brake lines need to be unhooked, and also the e-brake cables....how big of a pain is that? Getting the old bushings out, and new ones in should be easy....I'm just worried about dropping the subframe down.

Any info, tip, tricks, or advice of any kind would be a big help!!

[Antetokounmpo]

I would just take the calipers off and hang the caliper from the body to avoid opening the brake lines. And yes it's a lot of work, not necessarily hard. If you're not very confident working on car I probably wouldn't attempt. A lot of things will be rusty, get an impact wrench.

[iqraceworks]

Thanks for the info. Compared to other jobs I've tackled, I'm not to worried about it.....just trying to see if there are easier or faster ways to do thing. Good idea regarding the brakes....I really didn't want to disconnect the lines.

How difficult is it to get the e-brake lines off? Is the only way to disconnect them from the e-brake handle in the cabin?

[tlow98]

Doesn’t seem too bad. Just remove at the rear hub and let it hang. Not sure if you need to relieve tension from the center console or not. I’m guessing likely you do.

[mweisdorfer]

Take the entire rear subframe out of the car.

If you have rust on the subframe, use a wire wheel and get it off. Prime with 2 coats of Rustoleum Primer & maybe use 3 coats of Rustoleum Black.

If putting in M3 subframe bushings, lightly coat the bushing hole with silicone grease before installing them. They will go in a lot easier & the silicone won't deteriorate the rubber of the new bushing.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by Antetokounmpo

I would just take the calipers off and hang the caliper from the body to avoid opening the brake lines. And yes it's a lot of work, not necessarily hard. If you're not very confident working on car I probably wouldn't attempt. A lot of things will be rusty, get an impact wrench.

I was up under my car last night (I have it up on my lift)....and I'm pretty sure I have to disconnect the brake lines to drop the subframe on my 335i. The flex lines from the calipers attach to hard lines that are mounted to the subframe with welded on brackets.

I can't think of anyway to drop the subframe without disconnecting the lines... Or am I missing something?

[IllSic_Design]

You will need to disconnect the brake lines and e brake cables to drop the subframe completely/remove it. I just did all this over Christmas time.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

You will need to disconnect the brake lines and e brake cables to drop the subframe completely/remove it. I just did all this over Christmas time.

Tips for disconnecting the e brake cables?

[IllSic_Design]

Pretty easy; pull rotors off, take off emergency brake shoes/springs/clips and slide cables out of the axle carrier/brake shield.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by IllSic_Design

Pretty easy; pull rotors off, take off emergency brake shoes/springs/clips and slide cables out of the axle carrier/brake shield.

Thanks! For some reason I thought I had to do some work inside the cabin to disconnect them.

[iqraceworks]

Well....I dropped the subframe, got the new M3 arms and Whiteline bushings in, and got it all back together. Took me about 8hrs from start to finish.

The toughest part was getting the e-brake pads and springs installed....what a pain! Everything else went pretty smooth!

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Well....I dropped the subframe, got the new M3 arms and Whiteline bushings in, and got it all back together. Took me about 8hrs from start to finish.

The toughest part was getting the e-brake pads and springs installed....what a pain! Everything else went pretty smooth!

So, you had to bleed the brakes, etc. then?

Also, which bushing removal tool did you use - the HPA one?

[Serf27]

Why would you remove the brake calipers and bleed the brakes?

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by Serf27

Why would you remove the brake calipers and bleed the brakes?

The brake lines are connected to the subframe with a welded on bracket. To drop the subframe down, you have to disconnect the lines ....no other way to do it.

[iqraceworks]

Here are a couple pics from the weekend. Having a lift sure makes this kind of stuff easy.

For being 13yrs old with 100K miles on it, I was actually surprised how clean and non rusty everything was up under the car.

Overall it was a pretty easy job....just takes some time. The brake lines, and all of the brake pad wiring connectors are a small pain, along with the e-brake cables....but not a huge deal. Also, don't forget about the wiring/connector for the rear headlight level sensor. It helps to have a tray where you can organize all of the nuts, bolts, and screws as you remove them from the car. And don't forget to mark the location of the bottom cup washers on the rear bushings that the exhaust hangers mount too....that makes putting it all back together easier.

Getting the bushings out wasn't too big of a deal.....heating them up with a torch let them press out pretty easy. Without a press, or the right tool(s) to press them out.....it would be almost impossible to just beat them out with a hammer. Hopefully the new M3 arms and Whiteline bushings make a noticeable difference in how the car handles, and gets rid of that loose rear-end feeling.

[Mantraxalos]

It looks like great progress so far. I wish mine lacked all that rust. Very clean.

[Tambohamilton]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

The brake lines are connected to the subframe with a welded on bracket. To drop the subframe down, you have to disconnect the lines ....no other way to do it.

This. You have to disconnect the line even just to remove the line and caliper from the subframe (so the subframe can be removed separately).

The thing to do is press the brake pedal before disconnecting the lines, and keep it pressed until the lines are reconnected. This way the fluid won't drain out of your reservoir, and you'll only need to bleed the rear brakes. Disconnect the battery too, of course, otherwise it'll get drained by running the brake lights all day.

[juld0zer]

For those considering this job, use newtis.info and familiarise yourselves with what's involved. They are the official instructions from BMW.

You must disconnect the middle brake lines but use the above tip and you'll be fine. That will be the least of your worries. Use a jackstand or a watercooler water bottle against your seat to hold the brake pedal down. You'll need to crack both rear bleeders to relieve the line pressures before disconnecting the middle lines.

The handbrake cables can be a wrestle. I couldn't get the cable disengaged from the lever. I ended up using a hook pick and small screwdriver to flick/heave each cable out of the actuators. That saved me having to disassemble the handbrake components.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

This. You have to disconnect the line even just to remove the line and caliper from the subframe (so the subframe can be removed separately).

The thing to do is press the brake pedal before disconnecting the lines, and keep it pressed until the lines are reconnected. This way the fluid won't drain out of your reservoir, and you'll only need to bleed the rear brakes. Disconnect the battery too, of course, otherwise it'll get drained by running the brake lights all day.

I wish I would have known about that brake pedal trick. I ended up pushing some rubber plugs into the lines to keep them from driping....worked good.

[iqraceworks]

Originally Posted by juld0zer

For those considering this job, use newtis.info and familiarise yourselves with what's involved. They are the official instructions from BMW.

You must disconnect the middle brake lines but use the above tip and you'll be fine. That will be the least of your worries. Use a jackstand or a watercooler water bottle against your seat to hold the brake pedal down. You'll need to crack both rear bleeders to relieve the line pressures before disconnecting the middle lines.

The handbrake cables can be a wrestle. I couldn't get the cable disengaged from the lever. I ended up using a hook pick and small screwdriver to flick/heave each cable out of the actuators. That saved me having to disassemble the handbrake components.

Instead of disconnecting the e-brake lines from the lever in the cabin.....I just pulled the rotors off, and disassembled the e-brake pads...and disconnected the cable at the wheel hub. I didn't have to mess with anything inside the cabin. Much easier I thought.

[juld0zer]

Originally Posted by iqraceworks

Instead of disconnecting the e-brake lines from the lever in the cabin.....I just pulled the rotors off, and disassembled the e-brake pads...and disconnected the cable at the wheel hub. I didn't have to mess with anything inside the cabin. Much easier I thought.

That's what i ended up doing except i just flicked/hooked the cable ends off the actuators. Shoes and springs stayed in place. By disengaging the lever it is supposed to provide more than enough cable slack to just flick the cables out.

Depending on your jack (or hoist) and what tools you have, compressing and removing the springs will make it easier to reinstall the subframe as you are not then fighting the springs also. You'll need an inner spring compressor to do it without disturbing the camber arms but if you don't have that type of compressor then you probably won't save any time or effort

[Serf27]

I believe if you remove the e brake boot, there is a locking pin/plate that holds the cables loose. Making it easier to disengage from the rear without having to completely remove the cables from the center and not giving a lot of trouble in the rear.