[Emilime75]

[desertman123]

Just get camber plates

[Emilime75]

Not helpful, but thanks.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

Not helpful, but thanks.

Do it.

[The Maxican]

I would just go with camber plates personally, you'll have way more adjustability and its 100% reversible. Now will it actually harm your car to notch the strut tower? Most likely no. But if you screw up, it will be difficult to fix and can potentially ruin your ability to properly align the car.

[desertman123]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

Not helpful, but thanks.

You asked for thoughts and I gave you mine, did you just want your idea validated?

I would advise against cutting into the strut tower, especially if you're running a stiff suspension setup. One bad pothole and that shock will be through your hood.

Originally Posted by The Maxican

I would just go with camber plates personally, you'll have way more adjustability and its 100% reversible. Now will it actually harm your car to notch the strut tower? Most likely no. But if you screw up, it will be difficult to fix and can potentially ruin your ability to properly align the car.

^^

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by desertman123

You asked for thoughts and I gave you mine, did you just want your idea validated?

I would advise against cutting into the strut tower, especially if you're running a stiff suspension setup. One bad pothole and that shock will be through your hood.



^^

Easy there, bud. Don't anything validated and it isn't my idea, just something I came across while searching for info about camber plates.

If you even watched the video, very little material is being removed and not likely to cause any issues...but that's why the question was asked.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

Easy there, bud. Don't anything validated and it isn't my idea, just something I came across while searching for info about camber plates.

If you even watched the video, very little material is being removed and not likely to cause any issues...but that's why the question was asked.

If very little material is removed then very little we be gained. I guess if you have zero money but are tracking the car (sort of oxymoron) you’d prolly be better off not doing one track day and buying plates

[neilvan]

Slotting is done all the time on built or track cars. Just do it properly(take your time) and make sure its tight.

That being said have you pulled the pin/m3 lower control arms and or camber plates to max your existing options before modifying the chassis?

[whyzee125]

I would never do that. Camber plates, springs/coils, and m3 control arms should give you all the camber you could dream of. With stock tophats and the pins intact, I had about 3.5 deg. Camber up front with just an eibach pro kit and m3 arms.

[9krpmrx8]

Dumb AF.

[Biginboca]

I did it. Dremel and carbide cutter no reason not to do it...

[bluewater328]

To me, you're asking for trouble as at least with a camber plate, it's made to take on the stress and angle. This means you're pretty much riding on the shear rate of the nuts since everything doesn't sit flush.

1) You spent a little extra getting a BMW instead of a common tuner car like a nissan, honda, subie (I had a few)
2) You're spending money (presumably) buying different parts to create a potential need for more camber
3) The tuning bug never stops abruptly -- which could lead to more stress on that tower for other pieces you eventually add.

...so why not spend a few extra bucks for camber plates that would probably give you more adjustability and last longer with no risk to the strut tower. Just my thoughts, it's obviously your car.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by bluewater328

To me, you're asking for trouble as at least with a camber plate, it's made to take on the stress and angle. This means you're pretty much riding on the shear rate of the nuts since everything doesn't sit flush.

1) You spent a little extra getting a BMW instead of a common tuner car like a nissan, honda, subie (I had a few)
2) You're spending money (presumably) buying different parts to create a potential need for more camber
3) The tuning bug never stops abruptly -- which could lead to more stress on that tower for other pieces you eventually add.

...so why not spend a few extra bucks for camber plates that would probably give you more adjustability and last longer with no risk to the strut tower. Just my thoughts, it's obviously your car.

Everything sits flush with the mod. Doing the cut in my pic above netted me -.6 degrees extra camber.

The reason I decided to cut is after adding bmw performance suspension and full m3 arms I was at -1.1 camber. I wanted -1.7 degrees camber because I DD the car and wasn’t looking for anything too extreme.

So I was about to add the Dinan camber plates but then feuer pointed out that they won’t work with drop perches I run.

I didn’t want adjustable camber plates. They add a potential failure point and are known to be noisy. I wanted a set and forget solution. Plus camber plates are pricey if you don’t need or want the adjustability.

Why do you say camber plates would “last longer”? How can parts that clunk and become loose last longer than no added parts using a permanently bolted in place factory mount?

Why is everyone so afraid to actually mod their car and only wants to bolt aftermarket parts on lol

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by tlow98

If very little material is removed then very little we be gained. I guess if you have zero money but are tracking the car (sort of oxymoron) you’d prolly be better off not doing one track day and buying plates

LOL. Assume much? Who said anything about finances and/or tracking?

Originally Posted by whyzee125

I would never do that. Camber plates, springs/coils, and m3 control arms should give you all the camber you could dream of. With stock tophats and the pins intact, I had about 3.5 deg. Camber up front with just an eibach pro kit and m3 arms.

Your car must one of those special camber editions...and what do your lowering springs have anything to do with this?

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

Dumb AF.

Yes, you are, if that's the best that you can do.

Originally Posted by bluewater328

To me, you're asking for trouble as at least with a camber plate, it's made to take on the stress and angle. This means you're pretty much riding on the shear rate of the nuts since everything doesn't sit flush.

1) You spent a little extra getting a BMW instead of a common tuner car like a nissan, honda, subie (I had a few)
2) You're spending money (presumably) buying different parts to create a potential need for more camber
3) The tuning bug never stops abruptly -- which could lead to more stress on that tower for other pieces you eventually add.

...so why not spend a few extra bucks for camber plates that would probably give you more adjustability and last longer with no risk to the strut tower. Just my thoughts, it's obviously your car.

Not much of this makes sense.
What doesn't sit flush? It sits just as "flush" as it would before elongating the holes.
How is the "shear rate" of the nuts involved? It remains fastened exactly as the it was.
1), 2) and 3)...have no clue.


All I've got so far are the experts with nothing real to offer, and 1 person who's done it and doesn't recommend against it.

Do you all really believe that elongating the holes .25" is somehow going to destroy the car? Seriously? And NO, I'm still not saying I'm going to do this, but some of you don't really have a good grasp of what's being asked.

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

Everything sits flush with the mod. Doing the cut in my pic above netted me -.6 degrees extra camber.

The reason I decided to cut is after adding bmw performance suspension and full m3 arms I was at -1.1 camber. I wanted -1.7 degrees camber because I DD the car and wasn’t looking for anything too extreme.

So I was about to add the Dinan camber plates but then feuer pointed out that they won’t work with drop perches I run.

I didn’t want adjustable camber plates. They add a potential failure point and are known to be noisy. I wanted a set and forget solution. Plus camber plates are pricey if you don’t need or want the adjustability.

Why do you say camber plates would “last longer”? How can parts that clunk and become loose last longer than no added parts using a permanently bolted in place factory mount?

Why is everyone so afraid to actually mod their car and only wants to bolt aftermarket parts on lol

Excellent. Thanks.

[Biginboca]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

Looks good. Can you add some details? How long/miles has it been since you did this? What's the car used for? What's your experience been? Have you noticed any negative side effects? Any pre/post alignment numbers...how much camber was gained?

It’s been about 7 months and 10k miles. No negative effects. I think you will find the other answers in my post above.

Do it!

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by Biginboca

It’s been about 7 months and 10k miles. No negative effects. I think you will find the other answers in my post above.

Do it!

Yes, missed that reply from you quoted quicker than I could edit my post.

Thanks again.

[feuer]

Only Ground Control currently makes camber plates compatible with OEM springs and unfortunately they are not very good. There is absolutely nothing wrong with slotting the wholes on E-chassis. Strut tower will not collapse, crack or what ever. Is funny how most of the comments on here come from people that don't have neither camber plates yet recommend them. Just mod the strut towers.

[bluewater328]

Originally Posted by feuer

Only Ground Control currently makes camber plates compatible with OEM springs and unfortunately they are not very good. There is absolutely nothing wrong with slotting the wholes on E-chassis. Strut tower will not collapse, crack or what ever. Is funny how most of the comments on here come from people that don't have neither camber plates yet recommend them. Just mod the strut towers.

Just because this car doesn't have a camber adjustment, doesn't mean two of the other three didn't. Also just means I'm a bit older in age and even older in mind...and not into that anymore...so we'll leave that there.

I saw something happen back in my Nissan days that strayed me - granted this one went sideways on occasion. Bolt dug into the tower and made the "slot" look like an erruption...and sheared off.

So call me a wuss or whatever, but reinforcing or a sacrificial piece means more to me. And to be fair, I hate some of the cheap camber plates that are basically screws on plates as well, but something that's built to adjust and support an angle is something I'd support.

I'm glad it worked for those of you who tried and more power to you and anyone willing to try. I actually agree with feuer in that the system has to be designed for the car and system almost specifically to make a difference.

I have no idea if a BMW tower is stronger that the one I saw (I'd guess and hope 'yes') but I won't be trying it.

Originally Posted by tlow98

If very little material is removed then very little we be gained. I guess if you have zero money but are tracking the car (sort of oxymoron) you’d prolly be better off not doing one track day and buying plates

This dude gets it. Not a worthy mod for only ~-0.5* of camber gained IMO; unless there are pressing reasons why your particular setup won't work with a more traditional setup (like Biginboca mentioned).

CN: get the Dinan fixed plates

[Emilime75]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

This dude gets it. Not a worthy mod for only ~-0.5* of camber gained IMO; unless there are pressing reasons why your particular setup won't work with a more traditional setup (like Biginboca mentioned).

CN: get the Dinan fixed plates

No, he doesn't. Dinan plates only provide .7° anyway, so why add parts and spend money if it isn't necessary? You're telling me it isn't a worth while mod, but $150+ for the same result is?