[CHLe90]

Just relying on the experience of others. Due to the geometry of the rear suspension spring placement, the 670 rating doesn't drive a change to the dampers. My thinking was also to minimize the tendency for the loaded side of the car to squat (or bottom) during hard cornering. At the end of the day, the additional investment for the springs was worth it IMHO. Good luck with your decision!

[badass335]

Cheap setup! All crap!!

Just kidding.. I have similar setup. Olhins R&T with swifts but mine are 400/800. I have the upgraded rear arms, toe plus lower and upper as well as m3 bushings.

Enjoy the ride!

[swifty]

Originally Posted by CHLe90

Just relying on the experience of others. Due to the geometry of the rear suspension spring placement, the 670 rating doesn't drive a change to the dampers. My thinking was also to minimize the tendency for the loaded side of the car to squat (or bottom) during hard cornering. At the end of the day, the additional investment for the springs was worth it IMHO. Good luck with your decision!

Thanks man. Wonder if anyone is running the original springs with this kit.

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by swifty

Thanks man. Wonder if anyone is running the original springs with this kit.

Yes I am (UK). Daily driver road car use only (no track work) so a good handling/ride compromise was my aim. I also had real difficulties adjusting the rears, until I increased the size of the holes in the trunk lining.

Ohlins recommended settings were 10 clicks front and rear, but I'm running on twice that. Still gives taught handling but a silky smooth ride, which on the UK's broken road surfaces is ideal...

[DieselDiner]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Ohlins recommended settings were 10 clicks front and rear

Phil, could you please elaborate on this? Is full soft defined as the the final click in the counter clockwise direction, therefore you are 20 clicks from that position (i.e. 20 clicks clockwise from null)?

[Phil325i]

OK. The owners manual says they are set at 7 clicks from the factory. But the installation instructions 'Recommended set-up' says 10 clicks.

And by that I mean (quoting from the manual):

"To set: Turn the adjuster clockwise to the fully closed position (the position zero [0]). Then, turn counter clockwise to open, and count the clicks until you reach the recommended number of clicks".

So mine are set 20 clicks from position zero [0].

Hope that helps.

[swifty]

phil, thank you so much. How many clicks are there?

[Alpina_B3_Lux]

Originally Posted by swifty

Thanks man. Wonder if anyone is running the original springs with this kit.

I do as well. Haven't had any reason to change the springs as the factory springs work very well, at least for my purposes. Lots of bad roads here too, so I didn't want anything stiffer (had that with the previous Bilstein coilover, no thank you).

After some experimentation I've reverted back to the factory settings for the dampers, i.e. 7 clicks.

I'm very happy with the kit, worlds better than the Bilstein B16 RC I had before. During everyday driving, but also on twisty mountain roads and the Nürburgring Nordschleife.

Alpina_B3_Lux

[swifty]

^ this is great news. Thanks for all the feedback.

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by swifty

phil, thank you so much. How many clicks are there?

Not sure exactly (I must try it one day) but I believe there are somewhere between 25 and 30 clicks available.

[DieselDiner]

Phil, thank you for the detailed explanation. Very helpful!

Alpina, thank you for chiming in. Everyone who has followed your mod thread knows you bring much background to the discussion.

[CHLe90]

Originally Posted by Phil325i

Not sure exactly (I must try it one day) but I believe there are somewhere between 25 and 30 clicks available.

30 - 32 clicks.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux

I do as well. Haven't had any reason to change the springs as the factory springs work very well, at least for my purposes. Lots of bad roads here too, so I didn't want anything stiffer (had that with the previous Bilstein coilover, no thank you).

After some experimentation I've reverted back to the factory settings for the dampers, i.e. 7 clicks.

I'm very happy with the kit, worlds better than the Bilstein B16 RC I had before. During everyday driving, but also on twisty mountain roads and the Nürburgring Nordschleife.

Alpina_B3_Lux

At the Ohlins recommended settings or even a tad above that, the ride is better than OE Sport. Even on firmer settings the ride is firm, but well controlled. OE sport is somewhat firm, but without any control and doesn't give the driver any confidence.

[swifty]

To the guys running on the original springs that come with the kit, are you using camber plates?

If not, are there any issues lowering the ride to where the OP has it or are you sitting higher than that?

If you don't track the car but want to lower the car, do you still need camber plates with this setup?

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by swifty

To the guys running on the original springs that come with the kit, are you using camber plates?

If not, are there any issues lowering the ride to where the OP has it or are you sitting higher than that?

If you don't track the car but want to lower the car, do you still need camber plates with this setup?

We have installed the R&T with and without the camber plates, what specifically would you like to know about them?

With camber plates, there is no problem using the Ohlins springs to go extremely low. However, with the OE upper mounts, you will need shorter springs in order to go lower.

No, just get shorter static height springs for more lowering.

[DieselDiner]

When I bought mine from Harold, his advice was that I could use the Ohlins springs and still go perhaps an inch lower than the sport suspension on my car. I don't have photos yet, but my car is probably about the same ride height as the OP, give or take. I also have M3 arms up front, and my camber is typical of M3 mods (with pins still in place).

[swifty]

Originally Posted by HP Autowerks

We have installed the R&T with and without the camber plates, what specifically would you like to know about them?

With camber plates, there is no problem using the Ohlins springs to go extremely low. However, with the OE upper mounts, you will need shorter springs in order to go lower.

No, just get shorter static height springs for more lowering.

I'm not looking to go extremely low. Just a finger gap between the fender and the tire. Will I still need shorter springs to achieve that?

Originally Posted by DieselDiner

When I bought mine from Harold, his advice was that I could use the Ohlins springs and still go perhaps an inch lower than the sport suspension on my car. I don't have photos yet, but my car is probably about the same ride height as the OP, give or take. I also have M3 arms up front, and my camber is typical of M3 mods (with pins still in place).

Would it be possible for you to post a pic of how the car sits. OP, I apologize in adv if this considered thread jacking.

[Phil325i]

Without camber plates, and set as per Ohlins instructions, the ride height lowers by 20mm front and 25mm rear. However I think these figures relate to non-MSport springs. Here's a pic of how mine looks on R&Ts (18" wheels, MSport spec), if it helps...

[CHLe90]

No problem, swifty. As a side note, when lowering the car at HPA, we raked the stance by lowering the front .25" more than the rear. Before I just mentioned lowering "about an inch"... FWIW.

[swifty]

Thanks Phil. My car currently sits a little lower in the front with Tcklines and plates. Do you think you can go a bit lower than that in the front? Any issues with camber without the plates?


CHLe90, your car did look like it had bit of a rake in the pictures but I assumed it's just the way the e90s sit.

Man, I can't wait to get mine. Appreciate all the help.

[Phil325i]

Originally Posted by swifty

Thanks Phil. My car currently sits a little lower in the front with Tcklines and plates. Do you think you can go a bit lower than that in the front? Any issues with camber without the plates?

No camber issues at all. And yes I'm sure it can go a bit lower - I'm thinking about it myself. What's putting me off is the greater likelihood of scraping something (hi kerb, speed bump etc) with the lower edge of the front bumper.

[jippii ensio]

Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux

I do as well. Haven't had any reason to change the springs as the factory springs work very well, at least for my purposes. Lots of bad roads here too, so I didn't want anything stiffer (had that with the previous Bilstein coilover, no thank you).

After some experimentation I've reverted back to the factory settings for the dampers, i.e. 7 clicks.

I'm very happy with the kit, worlds better than the Bilstein B16 RC I had before. During everyday driving, but also on twisty mountain roads and the Nürburgring Nordschleife.

Alpina_B3_Lux

Thanks for your input. You are lapping nurburgring with stock springs with no problem. Some who are not even tracking their car are doubling the front spring rate. I don't get why people double the front spring rate. I've seen like +100% and +200% front spring rates compared to the stock, and the stock spring rates front and rear are very well balanced from the factory.