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      03-09-2017, 09:14 AM   #1
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Exclamation Help on clutch pedal! E92 335I

Hello everyone. I am having a really stubborn issue with my manual E92 335i. I was driving home one day coming back from school just to find out that my clutch pedal was being extremely stubborn. Long story short I couldn't put the car in gear anymore.

After looking into what was going on I noticed this little pin that holds the clutch pedal with the clutch master cylinder snapped in half. At first I figured that was the issue (because it was a bit hard to actually push in the clutch pedal). I also noticed a bit of fluid in the clutch master cylinder so I went ahead and replaced that too.

So anyway after replacing those two parts I went through a phase of trying to bleed my clutch lines and whatnot. After having a hell of a day trying to screw off the bolt of the slave cylinder I ended up not being able to so I removed the slave cylinder itself. AFTER REMOVING IT I REALIZED THAT THE SLAVE CYLINDER WAS BROKEN TOO.

So I replaced that too. I also took the liberty of doing the CDV delete while I was at it (not actually removing it just gutting it out). So I rebleed my clutch.. everything seemed normal. but sadly, of course, nope. After I finished bleeding the clutch with my Motive Powerbleeder I pressed on the clutch and it was still just laying on the floor. So I kept pumping the clutch.. after I while I noticed pressure being built up. The pressure was so bad to the point where I couldn't press the clutch all the way in without really putting down force.. so thats what I did.

As soon as I manage to press the clutch in I hear a pop coming down from the bottom of the car.. just to find out the newly installed slave cylinder started leaking AGAIN.

So my questions are.. once I replace the slave cylinder again what can possibly be the issue? PLEASE HELP. I AM OVER THIS CRAP.

I have also noticed that the clutch gets easier to press down after not pumping it for a while.
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      03-09-2017, 06:27 PM   #2
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Are you doing the following procedure?
1)open valve, then depress clutch

2)close valve, then release clutch

3)Repeat steps 1 & 2 until no more air comes out of the tube attached to the bleeder valve.

4)Check reservoir and add fluid as needed.

Try the instructions on this site:
http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWCDVMod.html

Let us know if that helps!
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Manual transmissions keep my left leg ripped. Other activities keep my right arm buff. It looks strange, but at least it's exercise.
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      03-09-2017, 09:43 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lab_rat View Post
Are you doing the following procedure?
1)open valve, then depress clutch

2)close valve, then release clutch

3)Repeat steps 1 & 2 until no more air comes out of the tube attached to the bleeder valve.

4)Check reservoir and add fluid as needed.

Try the instructions on this site:
http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWCDVMod.html

Let us know if that helps!
I just wanna start off by saying thank you for taking time to try to help me.

Anyway my replacement slave cylinder came in today and after setting all of it up I stepped away from using the power bleeder and did it the old fashion way with a friend. After what it seemed like it was finally not giving any issues out of nowhere the slave cylinder broke again. My friend told me it was getting harder and harder to fully press down on the clutch until kaboom.. a leak.

I spoke with a mechanic and he informed me that it had something to do with the pressure plate. Does this sound about right?
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      03-09-2017, 09:56 PM   #4
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Sounds like the slave cylinder may not be getting pressure from the clutch assembly before it fully extends. With no pressure to push the piston back in, you're just building pressure in the slave until it blows. Broken clutch fork, maybe?
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      03-09-2017, 10:22 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by GATORB8 View Post
Sounds like the slave cylinder may not be getting pressure from the clutch assembly before it fully extends. With no pressure to push the piston back in, you're just building pressure in the slave until it blows. Broken clutch fork, maybe?
Good point - thank you for your input. I might just go ahead and do the 335is clutch kit installation and go from there. I found a list of parts needed and I'm just going to have the mechanic do the entire job for $350 while my only job is to source all the needed parts. Is $350 reasonable guys?
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      03-09-2017, 11:36 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevisoft View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by lab_rat View Post
Are you doing the following procedure?
1)open valve, then depress clutch

2)close valve, then release clutch

3)Repeat steps 1 & 2 until no more air comes out of the tube attached to the bleeder valve.

4)Check reservoir and add fluid as needed.

Try the instructions on this site:
http://www.billswebspace.com/BMWCDVMod.html

Let us know if that helps!
I just wanna start off by saying thank you for taking time to try to help me.

Anyway my replacement slave cylinder came in today and after setting all of it up I stepped away from using the power bleeder and did it the old fashion way with a friend. After what it seemed like it was finally not giving any issues out of nowhere the slave cylinder broke again. My friend told me it was getting harder and harder to fully press down on the clutch until kaboom.. a leak.

I spoke with a mechanic and he informed me that it had something to do with the pressure plate. Does this sound about right?
No problem, I like to help where I can and learn along the way.

It could be related to the pressure plate as your Tech said. Here is a product you might want to consider purchasing & installing along w/the new cylinder if you chose to try installing it yourself again:

http://www.rogueengineering.com/Rogu...Pin_p_235.html

If you went ahead and had your Indy perform it, you probably wouldn't need the Rogue Engineering slave pin. I think $350 sounds reasonable, and can understand your frustration at this point for sure, so having him do it isn't a bad call at all.
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Originally Posted by JeffyD
Manual transmissions keep my left leg ripped. Other activities keep my right arm buff. It looks strange, but at least it's exercise.
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      03-10-2017, 05:53 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevisoft View Post
I just wanna start off by saying thank you for taking time to try to help me.

Anyway my replacement slave cylinder came in today and after setting all of it up I stepped away from using the power bleeder and did it the old fashion way with a friend. After what it seemed like it was finally not giving any issues out of nowhere the slave cylinder broke again. My friend told me it was getting harder and harder to fully press down on the clutch until kaboom.. a leak.

I spoke with a mechanic and he informed me that it had something to do with the pressure plate. Does this sound about right?
So, I've been noodling this for a day after I read it yesterday. I've replaced a few clutches in my time, and two BMW clutches in particular, so I'm familiar with the design enough to give advice.

The E90 slave cylinder bleed screw is a bitch to get at, even when the car is on a lift. The alternative way to bleed the master cylinder is to remove it from the bell housing and use a C-clamp to hold the piston rod closed, then bleed it. Once you've bled the slave cylinder remove the clamp and reinstall it. [I tried to bleed my E90 clutch one time (after 200,000+ miles) being I had never flushed the fluid from it during a brake fluid flush. I could not get it to build pressure by the pump method, nor pulling a vacuum on it. The only bleeding procedure that worked was using a Motive (power) bleeder; a Godsend of a tool if you ask me.]

But I think there is a problem with the mechanical operation of the clutch in your car. You should not be blowing the seals of the master cylinder nor slave cylinder and the severed pin is a tell tale sign there is an mechanical issue with the clutch, and it is most likely with the pressure plate. In other words, something broke in the clutch and not in the hydraulic actuation components. An easy way to check is to remove the slave cylinder and get a short wooden dowel like 18 inches or so of a broom handle, and try to hand actuate the clutch. You should be able to push it in. At least there should be a little play in the actuation arm. If you can't feel any play or can't push the clutch in, then you'll have to remove the transmission and see what's what. But a clutch refurb kit is less than $400, so you might as well get the parts and just replace the clutch.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      03-10-2017, 10:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevisoft View Post
I just wanna start off by saying thank you for taking time to try to help me.

Anyway my replacement slave cylinder came in today and after setting all of it up I stepped away from using the power bleeder and did it the old fashion way with a friend. After what it seemed like it was finally not giving any issues out of nowhere the slave cylinder broke again. My friend told me it was getting harder and harder to fully press down on the clutch until kaboom.. a leak.

I spoke with a mechanic and he informed me that it had something to do with the pressure plate. Does this sound about right?
So, I've been noodling this for a day after I read it yesterday. I've replaced a few clutches in my time, and two BMW clutches in particular, so I'm familiar with the design enough to give advice.

The E90 slave cylinder bleed screw is a bitch to get at, even when the car is on a lift. The alternative way to bleed the master cylinder is to remove it from the bell housing and use a C-clamp to hold the piston rod closed, then bleed it. Once you've bled the slave cylinder remove the clamp and reinstall it. [I tried to bleed my E90 clutch one time (after 200,000+ miles) being I had never flushed the fluid from it during a brake fluid flush. I could not get it to build pressure by the pump method, nor pulling a vacuum on it. The only bleeding procedure that worked was using a Motive (power) bleeder; a Godsend of a tool if you ask me.]

But I think there is a problem with the mechanical operation of the clutch in your car. You should not be blowing the seals of the master cylinder nor slave cylinder and the severed pin is a tell tale sign there is an mechanical issue with the clutch, and it is most likely with the pressure plate. In other words, something broke in the clutch and not in the hydraulic actuation components. An easy way to check is to remove the slave cylinder and get a short wooden dowel like 18 inches or so of a broom handle, and try to hand actuate the clutch. You should be able to push it in. At least there should be a little play in the actuation arm. If you can't feel any play or can't push the clutch in, then you'll have to remove the transmission and see what's what. But a clutch refurb kit is less than $400, so you might as well get the parts and just replace the clutch.
Oh yeah that slave cylinder screw was an absolute PITA to get to.

I feel more confident in knowing what could be the possible issue. I'm going to just go ahead and fork out the $880 that's going to be needed to do the job. :

I'll keep everyone posted as I begin to undergo through this. I appreciate everyone taking their time to drop their 2 cents.
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      03-01-2019, 10:46 AM   #9
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did you ever get this sorted? I'm curious what the results were
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      03-12-2019, 10:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post

But I think there is a problem with the mechanical operation of the clutch in your car. You should not be blowing the seals of the master cylinder nor slave cylinder and the severed pin is a tell tale sign there is an mechanical issue with the clutch, and it is most likely with the pressure plate. In other words, something broke in the clutch and not in the hydraulic actuation components. An easy way to check is to remove the slave cylinder and get a short wooden dowel like 18 inches or so of a broom handle, and try to hand actuate the clutch. You should be able to push it in. At least there should be a little play in the actuation arm. If you can't feel any play or can't push the clutch in, then you'll have to remove the transmission and see what's what. But a clutch refurb kit is less than $400, so you might as well get the parts and just replace the clutch.
This. You keep blowing the slave cylinder because the clutch pressure plate is either frozen or very, very stiff. You'll need to drop the tranny and check the pressure plate. If you do this, you might as well replace the clutch and pressure plate while you're in there.
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