[Omar717s]

I have installed a jbl gt5 1,100 watt subwoofer powered by a one channel amplifier, but i can barely hear the subs sound. i really don't know what to do, should i change the amplifier, please help me because am really thinking of selling them because i have not gained anything except filling my cars trunk..

[L3O710]

It feels like the sound has difficulty traveling through the car because of the leather. I pull my ski hole down or pull the seats down.. Im running two mtx 10s powered by an 600 rms watt. It mostly depends on the songs your listening to

[fdriller9]

Don't know if you meant to put 1000 or 100 but the GT5 is mean to handle 1100 watts. So if your pushing 100w to it then you definitely want to get a more powerful amp. At least a 500w.

[e90TiAg335i]

I would say you definetly need to look at your equipment / setup! I have a single soundsplinter 10 run off of a Zapco dc500.1, which is only 350 watts at 4 ohms, and it easily keeps up with the rest of the system. It is mounted in a custom fiberglass enclosure corner loaded on the driver's side. I also have a 2010 e90.

[kaigoss69]

What kind of amp? What audio system do you have and where are you getting the signal from? Is the sound loud in the trunk and barely audible in the cabin or does the sub perhaps not produce enough bass to begin with?

[Omar717s]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

What kind of amp? What audio system do you have and where are you getting the signal from? Is the sound loud in the trunk and barely audible in the cabin or does the sub perhaps not produce enough bass to begin with?

Its a Kenwood amp. and am running them on my stock audio system, the sound in the trunk is not that loud, car speakers sound is louder than the sub which ends with a lot of distortion without getting the bass i want. i want to know if its the amp's problem or its just the cabin is really isolated from the trunk ?

[kaigoss69]

Well the last question you can answer yourself by sticking your head in the trunk...

But I suspect something is not right in your signal path. Where are you getting the signal for the Kenwood amp?

[VP Electricity]

I bet $100 you tapped your rear speaker wires.

[E90 87ss]

I did an install with a single JL12W3V3 in a sealed box and a mono channel amp rated at 300RMS amp in an 01 maxima and the sound through the seats wasn't that great. We had to Dynomat the entire trunk before the sound was acceptable. Try a different sub with a lower power rating. I bet a JL12W0 will sound better. Other brands of course, but I'm a JL fan...

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by E90 87ss

I did an install with a single JL12W3V3 in a sealed box and a mono channel amp rated at 300RMS amp in an 01 maxima and the sound through the seats wasn't that great. We had to Dynomat the entire trunk before the sound was acceptable. Try a different sub with a lower power rating. I bet a JL12W0 will sound better. Other brands of course, but I'm a JL fan...

I mean no offense when I say this argument doesn't make any sense, and I hope the OP doesn't follow this advice.

[E90 87ss]

Sorry just read through it really quick, should have checked the specs on the sub first... 275 is the RMS handling 1100 is the peak power handling. Basically thought the sub was being underpowered and the amp running hard that's why i suggested a matching amp and sub combination.

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by E90 87ss

Sorry just read through it really quick, should have checked the specs on the sub first... 275 is the RMS handling 1100 is the peak power handling. Basically thought the sub was being underpowered and the amp running hard that's why i suggested a matching amp and sub combination.

Now I understand, and I'm afraid I must still disagree. Not sure where this myth came from - I'm sure amp makers would be happy to perpetuate it - but the amount of electricity it takes to melt a voice coil doesn't have any relation to the amount needed to make a speaker sound good, or loud. Increasingly common misperception, I'm afraid. That's all Power Handling means - "when does it melt?"

[E90 87ss]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

Now I understand, and I'm afraid I must still disagree. Not sure where this myth came from - I'm sure amp makers would be happy to perpetuate it - but the amount of electricity it takes to melt a voice coil doesn't have any relation to the amount needed to make a speaker sound good, or loud. Increasingly common misperception, I'm afraid. That's all Power Handling means - "when does it melt?"

I know, that's why I mentioned the RMS rating. The OP said he had 1100 watt subwoofer, but actually has a 275 watt sub. Now I understand that the power handling tells you at what point the sub will burn up, but isn't the RMS rating of the sub a good guide to determine your amp and sub combo as well as the amount of power you should give your sub. I don't see how under powering a sub would make it sound as good or as loud as it would if it were in it's peak operating range usually in the middle or a little above the middle of it's RMS rating. I'm not an audio expert, but would you care to explain what is good guide to match an amp to a sub and how determine how much power a sub actually needs to be loud or sound good given its specs?

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by E90 87ss

...but isn't the RMS rating of the sub a good guide to determine your amp and sub combo as well as the amount of power you should give your sub.

No, it's not. It's not relevant whatsoever.

Originally Posted by E90 87ss

I don't see how under powering a sub would make it sound as good or as loud as it would if it were in it's peak operating range usually in the middle or a little above the middle of it's RMS rating.

Take a given amp and sub combo. Double the power going to it. It gets 3dB louder. 3dB. 3dB is considered by some to be the smallest volume difference that is perceptible as a volume difference (smaller volume differences are perceived as tonal shifts). If you want to get louder, amp power is a very costly way to do it.

The assumption that the peak operating range of a woofer is necessarily centered on its RMS rating is an assumption with no basis of fact behind it, I'm afraid.

If the OP has his signal tapped of the rear speaks, he is sending his amplifier NO BASS AT ALL, and that would be a problem

[Omar717s]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

I bet $100 you tapped your rear speaker wires.

No Front speakers, I guess the 350 watts amp cant boost enough power to the sub.

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by Omar717s

No Front speakers, I guess the 350 watts amp cant boost enough power to the sub.

I'm not saying that, I don't think it's true.

Where did you grab the front speaker connections?

Which way is the box facing, and have you tried rotating it 180 degrees?

Can you post a pic of the box in the trunk?

Thanks,

[Omar717s]

Originally Posted by VP Electricity

I'm not saying that, I don't think it's true.

Where did you grab the front speaker connections?

Which way is the box facing, and have you tried rotating it 180 degrees?

Can you post a pic of the box in the trunk?

Thanks,

sorry about the bad quality

[Gavin@MMW]

Your running 350 watts to an 1100w sub, "We need more Powar! "Ive Given Her all Shes Got Captain!"

im running 1800 watts to 2 1000 watt subs.

[VP Electricity]

Some points:

1) If you read the specs on that amp, it's a 55 watt by two channel amp, 150 watts bridged. 350 watts is what it generates when lightning hits your car.

2) I can't tell anything about the box with that photograph. The woofer has a single 4 ohm voice coil, so your amp is doing 150 watts. I would expect a 12" with 150 watts to be loud, but I don't have any idea about your box size, type, or why it's sideways.

I recommend you go see a pro. This is what they do.

[VP Electricity]

Originally Posted by Craven 328

Your running 350 watts to an 1100w sub, "We need more Powar! "Ive Given Her all Shes Got Captain!"

No, he's not. He's running 150W to a woofer rated for 275W.

I'm afraid that the power handling rating of a sub has nothing to do with how much power it needs.

[Everling]

Check ur taps. Did u make sure to keep the + wire from the loc with the + signal source and the - wire with the - speaker source. Did you follow this for both the left and right?

The first time time i did the install, i accidentally switched one side... thus my signals were basically almost canceling each other out. U can take a look at that.

Also, did u tap into the fronts? Why dont u tap into the sub signals?

[VP Electricity]

If he has a 2010 with base audio, he has no sub signals - the F door and underseat speaker are shared. He would have to run into the door to be on the other side of a crossover.

The rear speakers have a high pass crossover in the deck itself.