So many codes...where do i start?

Ironhead Dave · 01-09-2019, 07:57 PM

I have another thread started on here labeled ‘spark plug tubes’ that morphed into a discussion about the real issue so I thought I would start this one to be more geared to what the issue is.

I changed my valve cover gasket on my 2011 328xi with a N52. Afterward I took the car for a drive. After a few miles it started running rough and got progressively worse to where it will barely start now. I bought a new Foxwell NT520 scanner and got a ton of codes. I don’t even know where to start. Maybe someone will be able to pinpoint something that may trigger all of this.

TheBlackDeath · 01-09-2019, 08:11 PM

For all your cylinders misfiring I would replace the spark plugs I got the same code but only for 4 and 5 and the other code for several of them misfiring i also have the same scanner as you Vanos solenoid aka the Vanos are in the engine by the spark plugs they might need to be replaced or cleaned but that’s just my word I could be wrong though. And I hope you get your car fixed.

Ironhead Dave · 01-09-2019, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBlackDeath

For all your cylinders misfiring I would replace the spark plugs I got the same code but only for 4 and 5 and the other code for several of them misfiring i also have the same scanner as you Vanos solenoid aka the Vanos are in the engine by the spark plugs they might need to be replaced or cleaned but that’s just my word I could be wrong though. And I hope you get your car fixed.

Thanks for the info. The car ran fine. I changed the valve cover gasket and this happened. But since it keeps getting worse, I am afraid that there are more things happening as a result of the original issue. Plugs do make sense. Since I have been trying different things and running it with the misfires, I may have messed up the plugs. I will have to pull them and check.

mojobmw_e90 · 01-09-2019, 08:29 PM

One of ur vanos sensors might be acting up or going bad causing all those codes. Bmws are just like that. One issue throws codes for alot of other stuff when in reality it's only 1 item needs repairing

Ironhead Dave · 01-09-2019, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mojobmw_e90

One of ur vanos sensors might be acting up or going bad causing all those codes. Bmws are just like that. One issue throws codes for alot of other stuff when in reality it's only 1 item needs repairing

I was wondering about the eccentric shaft sensor. It seems to be fairly touchy from what I have read. Likebif it gets any oil or moisture in the connector. I just feel like it has to be something related to working on the valve cover since that was all i did to the car and then this issue started. I was just hoping that I could get something a little more definitive before I started throwing a bunch of money at it. I am really hoping it is like you said and one thing is triggering the others.

nsjames · 01-09-2019, 08:45 PM

my ESS was the cause of my hard/no starts when cold.

after replacement, car idles better than it ever has in my ownership.

it's definitely one to look at.
You've also got crank sensor issues, which would possibly cause an entire littany of cam errors.

frankly I'd clear that mess and then see what comes back immediately.

fleet · 01-09-2019, 09:11 PM

I had 23 current or stored codes when I got my e91 and had a lot of the same issues and codes you did. I did the VCG, eccentric cam sensor, plugs, coil-packs, cleaned the Vanos solenoids, belt, tensioner, and replaced a couple of cooling system parts that broke during the work. I put it all back together, and it was still running as you describe. I swapped out the crankshaft position sensor ($12 on ebay) and it's running like a champ.

While doing the other work, on a whim I used a rebate/gift card to buy Burger Tuning cabin air filters after reading about them here. Installing them meant the rain-tray/underhood cowl got deleted. I'm glad I did it as the missing cowl allowed me to swap the crankshaft sensor without removing the intake manifold. It was tight, and frustrating at times, but way easier than pulling the intake manifold.

ckanderson · 01-09-2019, 10:09 PM

Clear codes and see what comes back. Go from there

gbalthrop · 01-09-2019, 11:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ironhead Dave

...I changed my valve cover gasket on my 2011 328xi with a N52. Afterward I took the car for a drive. After a few miles it started running rough and got progressively worse to where it will barely start now. I bought a new Foxwell NT520 scanner and got a ton of codes.

I would start by reading & recording ALL Freeze Frame Data for each DME code -- your first 5 screens (forget the others for now). What is helpful is to know the mileage/km at which each code was saved (as well as the mileage at which you replaced the VCG, and NOW, in km). Also FF Data will tell you engine conditions, such as load, RPM & Temp when the code was saved. That may be helpful in diagnosing misfire codes, particularly if at high RPM/Load.

QUESTIONS:

1) Did you disconnect Battery (-) terminal BEFORE beginning to remove VC? If NOT, did you notice any sparking/ arcing at any time?

2) Did you read codes BEFORE beginning the work? I don't mean to beat-up on you, as I assume from your post you did NOT have a code reader available at that time, but I assume ALL can understand why that is good practice.

3) Can you provide the Freeze Frame Data supplied above? If not, can you let the car sit overnight, clear all codes (after recording any NOT previously cleared) and do another test drive to see what happens, NOW checking ALL Codes & FF Data?

4) Did you get any SES or other warning light during the first test drive, and if so, please identify EACH light and approximately how long after startup each occurred.

5) I presume that since each of the BMW Fault Codes is "NOT Present" your engine was off (but ignition ON) when you read those codes?

The Codes that mention "Crankshaft", 2A98 & 2A9A, relate to the Inlet CAMshaft sensor signal, although the first such code suggests the camshaft signal does NOT correlate with the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) signal. However your work did not get anywhere near the CPS, and the engine started fine afterward, so no reason to believe the CPS is related to your issue.

With answers to the questions above, we could come closer to providing help instead of SWAGs.

On the info provided so far, my SWAG would be a wiring issue, arising from wiring or connectors damaged/ not properly connected during the VCG replacement. All DME faults appear related to the Valve Gear, excluding misfire (apparently random) in all 6 cylinders. Improperly seated coils, loose ground wires, or wiring faults could likewise explain the misfire codes. Here is the TIS circuit diagram for "Valve Gear" on your model:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ording/vOpiTYU
Also check fuse F37 which powers the various sensors/solenoids:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lim/1VnYmxVJ04

If you followed a written procedure, copied from Bentley or TIS, please identify that procedure & retrace your steps. If you simply followed a video or "winged it" try to identify steps taken as best you can and retrace your steps. As stated, my SWAG is a wiring/connector issue from improper reassembly, and NOT a component failure, and I would strongly suggest NOT throwing parts at it until proper evaluation & testing is done. That assumes you don't have oil leaking into plug wells or anything of that nature which you can quickly check.

I don't know anything about Foxwell NT520 -- can that read Parameters (PIDs or Live Data), or perform Activations? Do you have the Manual or have you downloaded it from the Web?

There is probably a silly solution to the "terrible unknown", so just approach it as though you were working on a car owned by someone else, and enjoy taking the time to learn how to use your new Scan Tool and take it a step at a time. Easy for ME to say, right?

George

juld0zer · 01-10-2019, 05:00 AM

Did you disconnect the VANOS solenoids during the repair?

Ironhead Dave · 01-10-2019, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I don't know anything about Foxwell NT520 -- can that read Parameters (PIDs or Live Data), or perform Activations? Do you have the Manual or have you downloaded it from the Web?

George

George- I will get you answers to some of this today so maybe it can speed things along. Any of the scanner stuff I cannot do until later tonight after work. In the meantime, here is a link to my scanner so you can know its capabilities. It is brand new so I do have all of the literature for it.

https://www.foxwelltech.com/product/item-340.html

Ironhead Dave · 01-10-2019, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Did you disconnect the VANOS solenoids during the repair?

I believe one. There is a plug that is part of the injection harness that is down on the front of the engine that I unplugged.

Ironhead Dave · 01-10-2019, 05:20 PM

George. Here are answers to some of your questions:

1) Did you disconnect Battery (-) terminal BEFORE beginning to remove VC? If NOT, did you notice any sparking/ arcing at any time? I broke the cardinal rule of automotive repair. I did not. I am new to BMW and after reading all the issues with battery installation and programming, I was reluctant (scared) to do so. I deserve all of the shaming that comes my way. As far as sparking…I disconnected the two large power wires from that right side terminal on the strut tower. I did hit the ratchet when doing the smaller one and it did spark. I wrapped the ends with electrical tape and placed the cover over the terminals

2) Did you read codes BEFORE beginning the work? I don't mean to beat-up on you, as I assume from your post you did NOT have a code reader available at that time, but I assume ALL can understand why that is good practice. I did not. It was only a valve cover gasket and I had just did the one on my wife’s car a few weeks prior.so it was all fresh in my mind and the CEL was not on so I had no reason to think to. The code reader I had was generic and the first time I got the CEL, it would not even read that there was a fault.

3) Can you provide the Freeze Frame Data supplied above? If not, can you let the car sit overnight, clear all codes (after recording any NOT previously cleared) and do another test drive to see what happens, NOW checking ALL Codes & FF Data? I do not have Freeze Frame data. The car has been sitting overnight but it is not drivable. It takes about three tries to start it and it will not stay running unless I continuously play with the accelerator. And even then it will still stall.

4) Did you get any SES or other warning light during the first test drive, and if so, please identify EACH light and approximately how long after startup each occurred. I did not get any light the first time. It started and drove fine. After a few miles, it started running rough. There were no lights that came on. I checked some stuff online and decided to take it back apart and check all of the connections and the gasket for being rolled. Everything looked ok. I started it and it acted the same. Ran fine and then went rough. This time the CEL came on but my reader would not read the codes. Since then, I have taken it apart one more time to ensure the gasket was correct, and it has gotten progressively worse since. The spark plug tubes had gotten burrs on the holes that I used snap ring pliers on to remove them and cut into the rubber on the sides of a couple coils. But not all of them. I have repaired the tubes and wrapped the bad spots on the coils with a double layer of electrical tape. I will replace them when I get this figured out. I have heard both sides of the story whether or not the damage will effect anything.

5) I presume that since each of the BMW Fault Codes is "NOT Present" your engine was off (but ignition ON) when you read those codes? Yes that is correct. I am trying not to run it if possible for fear of causing further damage.

The Codes that mention "Crankshaft", 2A98 & 2A9A, relate to the Inlet CAMshaft sensor signal, although the first such code suggests the camshaft signal does NOT correlate with the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) signal. However your work did not get anywhere near the CPS, and the engine started fine afterward, so no reason to believe the CPS is related to your issue. I did not include the CPS, however…When I moved the coil/injector harness out of the way, I did pull on those wires to put the harness over the radiator tank. I did not yank on it and given the bends and curves to the sensor, I do not believe I did any damage. I have felt the connector and the wires are not pulled out and the sensor is still plugged in. I also checked the other end and it is fine also so unless I literally pulled the wires in two, I feel it should be ok.

Ironhead Dave · 01-12-2019, 08:19 AM

I finally got a chance to get some more info. This is the freeze frame data that was stored when I had retrieved the codes from the first post above.

Ironhead Dave · 01-12-2019, 08:23 AM

I cleared the codes and ran the car again and this is the live data I got:

Ironhead Dave · 01-12-2019, 08:25 AM

After getting the live data, this is the list of codes I got:

Ironhead Dave · 01-12-2019, 08:28 AM

And finally, this is the freeze frame data that was pressing after running it this last time.

nsjames · 01-12-2019, 10:25 AM

is your MAF sensor unplugged?
cause 0.0 lbs of air.

control module voltage of 9V may be an issue as well.

Ironhead Dave · 01-12-2019, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nsjames

is your MAF sensor unplugged?
cause 0.0 lbs of air.

control module voltage of 9V may be an issue as well.

I didn’t notice that. I will check. I unplugged to to force it into a condition going off of a suggestion from an earlier response. Maybe I forgot or did not get it in all the way.

nsjames · 01-12-2019, 11:32 AM

well it read .10 earlier, which is real real low.

a wonky maf could certainly cause your running issues.

your fuel trims are at 0, but it also says it's running open loop, so the computer hasn't attempted to adjust it yet.

gbalthrop · 01-12-2019, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nsjames

is your MAF sensor unplugged? cause 0.0 lbs of air. control module voltage of 9V may be an issue as well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nsjames

well it read .10 earlier, which is real real low. a wonky maf could certainly cause your running issues. your fuel trims are at 0, but it also says it's running open loop, so the computer hasn't attempted to adjust it yet.

I'm NOT familiar with the Scan Tool Dave is using, and am NO expert on codes, but my interpretation of Dave's last FF Data (Post #17) is that is Freeze Frame Data showing engine conditions at the time that code P0016 was saved in DME Memory. My SWAG is THAT Code (P0016) is key to the rough running and all the other codes (including misfire on all cylinders except #2). Here's my take on that FF Data:

1) Code P0016 was SAVED DURING STARTER CRANKING and BEFORE engine fired. That code is set when Crankshaft Position Sensor signal & Intake Cam Position signal are NOT consistent. In simple terms, the signals received by the DME from those two sensors CANNOT both be correct: Either (a) there is a fault in the CPS circuit, or (b) there is a fault in the CMP circuit.

2) That interpretation is based upon the following FF Data points:
(a) RPM = 144 RPM (starter cranking speed)
(b) Time Since Engine Start = 0
(c) Control Module Voltage = 9.4V (due to Starter Draw?)
(d) Absolute Load Value = 0

3) That interpretation is consistent with:
(a) Fuel System Status = Open Loop
(b) Calculated Load Value = 0
(c) Air Flow Rate (MAFS) = 0 (NOTE the Units are lb. per SECOND as opposed to lb./Min. which is more commonly used, so earlier .10 lb/sec is actually quite healthy for idle?)

4) I have NO opinion on, but a LOT of questions about:
(a) why is Relative/ Absolute Throttle Position in 88% range?
(b) why is Accelerator Pedal Position in 30% range?
(c) why is "Commanded Throttle Actuator Control" 100%
(d) WHAT IS "Commanded Throttle Actuator Control"???

So if Code P0016 is in fact key to diagnosis of the problem, AND that code is being saved in DME during starter cranking, BEFORE the engine fires and oil pressure is developed to operate the VANOS Units, there MUST be an issue with:

1) The wiring/connectors associated with the CPS or CMP (Crankshaft Position Sensor or Intake Cam Sensor) which is saved in the DME during the second(s) of starter cranking, before engine startup/firing.

2) A problem with one of those two sensors. If the car ran normally BEFORE the VCG procedure, it is much more likely that the issue is wiring rather than component failure.

Dave, I do NOT have any personal experience with the issue you are addressing. As stated earlier, if I were in your situation as I understand it from your posts thus far, I would do an exhaustive test/examination of the wiring from the DME to the various components of the "Valve Gear" per the TIS circuit diagram.

Here is a good discussion of the P0016 code, possible causes, etc.:
https://www.troublecodes.net/pcodes/p0016/

That is a discussion of the P-code as it pertains to multiple applications or manufacturers, and a LOT of BMW BS-Artists will try to persuade you that your BMW is actually so unique that you should dismiss out-of-hand any such "plebian" discussion. I would personally dismiss the BMW-is-UNIQUE argument, and just approach the diagnostic puzzle from an engineering (and NOT market-image ;-) approach.

As I stated in Post #9:

On the info provided so far, my SWAG would be a wiring issue, arising from wiring or connectors damaged/ not properly connected during the VCG replacement. All DME faults appear related to the Valve Gear, excluding misfire (apparently random) in all 6 cylinders. Improperly seated coils, loose ground wires, or wiring faults could likewise explain the misfire codes. Here is the TIS circuit diagram for "Valve Gear" on your model:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ording/vOpiTYU
Also check fuse F37 which powers the various sensors/solenoids:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lim/1VnYmxVJ04

Hope you find the Fault soon & can educate all of us on Troubleshooting 101,
George

Ironhead Dave · 01-12-2019, 02:18 PM

I had a fear of the data looking a bit strange since it is extremely hard to get the car to start. It will not idle at all so i have to constantly be fussing with the accelerator to keep it going. And even then it won’t run for long. I really feel like it was something simple and has snowballed it then mess i have now. I did check, per the suggestion of an earlier post, my spark plugs. I pull #2 and #5 (no significance to the cylinders). And both plus were black but dry I assume from all of the misfires.

Is there a chance that the car has been trying to adjust for the poor running condition and is so far out of it that it is perpetuating all of the other issues? I had a car donthat once that had an injector go bad and it adjusted itself right out of running. It was a GM so i just unhooked the battery to reset the computer. Installed a new injector and it was fine after that. My Toyota did the same thing too. Just an out of the box random thought. I will start going through the wiring and such. It just seems so straight forward that unless I somehow dames something in the harness i don’t see where it may be. Let the fun begin....

01-09-2019, 07:57 PM	#1
Ironhead Dave Private First Class 12 Rep 112 Posts Drives: 2011 328i X-drive Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Paris, KY iTrader: (0)	So many codes...where do i start? I have another thread started on here labeled ‘spark plug tubes’ that morphed into a discussion about the real issue so I thought I would start this one to be more geared to what the issue is. I changed my valve cover gasket on my 2011 328xi with a N52. Afterward I took the car for a drive. After a few miles it started running rough and got progressively worse to where it will barely start now. I bought a new Foxwell NT520 scanner and got a ton of codes. I don’t even know where to start. Maybe someone will be able to pinpoint something that may trigger all of this. Attached Images
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01-09-2019, 08:29 PM	#4
mojobmw_e90 Major 380 Rep 1,497 Posts Drives: 2014 E63S Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Chicago IL iTrader: (3)	One of ur vanos sensors might be acting up or going bad causing all those codes. Bmws are just like that. One issue throws codes for alot of other stuff when in reality it's only 1 item needs repairing
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01-09-2019, 08:45 PM	#6
nsjames Brigadier General 2440 Rep 4,330 Posts Drives: 08 328xi Touring Join Date: May 2017 Location: ohio iTrader: (0)	my ESS was the cause of my hard/no starts when cold. after replacement, car idles better than it ever has in my ownership. it's definitely one to look at. You've also got crank sensor issues, which would possibly cause an entire littany of cam errors. frankly I'd clear that mess and then see what comes back immediately.
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01-09-2019, 09:11 PM	#7
fleet Private 54 Rep 74 Posts Drives: 328xi Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Upstate NY iTrader: (0)	I had 23 current or stored codes when I got my e91 and had a lot of the same issues and codes you did. I did the VCG, eccentric cam sensor, plugs, coil-packs, cleaned the Vanos solenoids, belt, tensioner, and replaced a couple of cooling system parts that broke during the work. I put it all back together, and it was still running as you describe. I swapped out the crankshaft position sensor ($12 on ebay) and it's running like a champ. While doing the other work, on a whim I used a rebate/gift card to buy Burger Tuning cabin air filters after reading about them here. Installing them meant the rain-tray/underhood cowl got deleted. I'm glad I did it as the missing cowl allowed me to swap the crankshaft sensor without removing the intake manifold. It was tight, and frustrating at times, but way easier than pulling the intake manifold. __________________ I like broken things.
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01-09-2019, 10:09 PM	#8
ckanderson Second Lieutenant 67 Rep 193 Posts Drives: 2013 335i Xdrive Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Nashville iTrader: (0)	Clear codes and see what comes back. Go from there
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01-09-2019, 08:11 PM	#2
TheBlackDeath Registered 2 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 2007 BMW 335i Black Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Tulsa iTrader: (0)	For all your cylinders misfiring I would replace the spark plugs I got the same code but only for 4 and 5 and the other code for several of them misfiring i also have the same scanner as you Vanos solenoid aka the Vanos are in the engine by the spark plugs they might need to be replaced or cleaned but that’s just my word I could be wrong though. And I hope you get your car fixed.
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01-10-2019, 05:00 AM	#10
juld0zer Lieutenant Colonel 480 Rep 1,600 Posts Drives: Prev 135i 7DCT, Now 130i 6sp Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: 2153 iTrader: (0)	Did you disconnect the VANOS solenoids during the repair?
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01-10-2019, 05:20 PM	#13
Ironhead Dave Private First Class 12 Rep 112 Posts Drives: 2011 328i X-drive Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Paris, KY iTrader: (0)	George. Here are answers to some of your questions: 1) Did you disconnect Battery (-) terminal BEFORE beginning to remove VC? If NOT, did you notice any sparking/ arcing at any time? I broke the cardinal rule of automotive repair. I did not. I am new to BMW and after reading all the issues with battery installation and programming, I was reluctant (scared) to do so. I deserve all of the shaming that comes my way. As far as sparking…I disconnected the two large power wires from that right side terminal on the strut tower. I did hit the ratchet when doing the smaller one and it did spark. I wrapped the ends with electrical tape and placed the cover over the terminals 2) Did you read codes BEFORE beginning the work? I don't mean to beat-up on you, as I assume from your post you did NOT have a code reader available at that time, but I assume ALL can understand why that is good practice. I did not. It was only a valve cover gasket and I had just did the one on my wife’s car a few weeks prior.so it was all fresh in my mind and the CEL was not on so I had no reason to think to. The code reader I had was generic and the first time I got the CEL, it would not even read that there was a fault. 3) Can you provide the Freeze Frame Data supplied above? If not, can you let the car sit overnight, clear all codes (after recording any NOT previously cleared) and do another test drive to see what happens, NOW checking ALL Codes & FF Data? I do not have Freeze Frame data. The car has been sitting overnight but it is not drivable. It takes about three tries to start it and it will not stay running unless I continuously play with the accelerator. And even then it will still stall. 4) Did you get any SES or other warning light during the first test drive, and if so, please identify EACH light and approximately how long after startup each occurred. I did not get any light the first time. It started and drove fine. After a few miles, it started running rough. There were no lights that came on. I checked some stuff online and decided to take it back apart and check all of the connections and the gasket for being rolled. Everything looked ok. I started it and it acted the same. Ran fine and then went rough. This time the CEL came on but my reader would not read the codes. Since then, I have taken it apart one more time to ensure the gasket was correct, and it has gotten progressively worse since. The spark plug tubes had gotten burrs on the holes that I used snap ring pliers on to remove them and cut into the rubber on the sides of a couple coils. But not all of them. I have repaired the tubes and wrapped the bad spots on the coils with a double layer of electrical tape. I will replace them when I get this figured out. I have heard both sides of the story whether or not the damage will effect anything. 5) I presume that since each of the BMW Fault Codes is "NOT Present" your engine was off (but ignition ON) when you read those codes? Yes that is correct. I am trying not to run it if possible for fear of causing further damage. The Codes that mention "Crankshaft", 2A98 & 2A9A, relate to the Inlet CAMshaft sensor signal, although the first such code suggests the camshaft signal does NOT correlate with the CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor) signal. However your work did not get anywhere near the CPS, and the engine started fine afterward, so no reason to believe the CPS is related to your issue. I did not include the CPS, however…When I moved the coil/injector harness out of the way, I did pull on those wires to put the harness over the radiator tank. I did not yank on it and given the bends and curves to the sensor, I do not believe I did any damage. I have felt the connector and the wires are not pulled out and the sensor is still plugged in. I also checked the other end and it is fine also so unless I literally pulled the wires in two, I feel it should be ok.
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01-12-2019, 08:19 AM	#14
Ironhead Dave Private First Class 12 Rep 112 Posts Drives: 2011 328i X-drive Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Paris, KY iTrader: (0)	I finally got a chance to get some more info. This is the freeze frame data that was stored when I had retrieved the codes from the first post above. Attached Images
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01-12-2019, 08:23 AM	#15
Ironhead Dave Private First Class 12 Rep 112 Posts Drives: 2011 328i X-drive Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Paris, KY iTrader: (0)	I cleared the codes and ran the car again and this is the live data I got: Attached Images
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01-12-2019, 08:25 AM	#16
Ironhead Dave Private First Class 12 Rep 112 Posts Drives: 2011 328i X-drive Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Paris, KY iTrader: (0)	After getting the live data, this is the list of codes I got: Attached Images
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01-12-2019, 08:28 AM	#17
Ironhead Dave Private First Class 12 Rep 112 Posts Drives: 2011 328i X-drive Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Paris, KY iTrader: (0)	And finally, this is the freeze frame data that was pressing after running it this last time. Attached Images
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01-12-2019, 10:25 AM	#18
nsjames Brigadier General 2440 Rep 4,330 Posts Drives: 08 328xi Touring Join Date: May 2017 Location: ohio iTrader: (0)	is your MAF sensor unplugged? cause 0.0 lbs of air. control module voltage of 9V may be an issue as well.
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01-12-2019, 11:32 AM	#20
nsjames Brigadier General 2440 Rep 4,330 Posts Drives: 08 328xi Touring Join Date: May 2017 Location: ohio iTrader: (0)	well it read .10 earlier, which is real real low. a wonky maf could certainly cause your running issues. your fuel trims are at 0, but it also says it's running open loop, so the computer hasn't attempted to adjust it yet.
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01-12-2019, 02:18 PM	#22
Ironhead Dave Private First Class 12 Rep 112 Posts Drives: 2011 328i X-drive Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Paris, KY iTrader: (0)	I had a fear of the data looking a bit strange since it is extremely hard to get the car to start. It will not idle at all so i have to constantly be fussing with the accelerator to keep it going. And even then it won’t run for long. I really feel like it was something simple and has snowballed it then mess i have now. I did check, per the suggestion of an earlier post, my spark plugs. I pull #2 and #5 (no significance to the cylinders). And both plus were black but dry I assume from all of the misfires. Is there a chance that the car has been trying to adjust for the poor running condition and is so far out of it that it is perpetuating all of the other issues? I had a car donthat once that had an injector go bad and it adjusted itself right out of running. It was a GM so i just unhooked the battery to reset the computer. Installed a new injector and it was fine after that. My Toyota did the same thing too. Just an out of the box random thought. I will start going through the wiring and such. It just seems so straight forward that unless I somehow dames something in the harness i don’t see where it may be. Let the fun begin....
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