[Jonny11Quest]

Originally Posted by johnmyster

it's behind the front exhaust manifold and was a huge pain to swap...as I had to loosen the manifold to get to it and was still next to impossible to put the new one in.

So if I plan to replace headers, I'm guessing retrofitting this oil cooler would be a good thing to do at the same time?

[johnmyster]

Originally Posted by Jonny11Quest

So if I plan to replace headers, I'm guessing retrofitting this oil cooler would be a good thing to do at the same time?

Yes, having the front header out would make swapping the coolant inlet pipe much easier.

[Jeb_]

Question for those of you that have already done this swap, how much coolant ends up draining out when you pull the original pipe off? I'm going to tackle this this weekend and want to make sure I have enough coolant on hand.

[johnmyster]

Originally Posted by Jeb_

Question for those of you that have already done this swap, how much coolant ends up draining out when you pull the original pipe off? I'm going to tackle this this weekend and want to make sure I have enough coolant on hand.

I've flushed my car once, and then did a drain and refill when I added this oil cooler.

Each time I added right at 1 jug of coolant, and seem to be right a 50% mix. I use bottled distilled water going back in, so I can monitor how much of each goes back.

Listed capacity for our cars is 8.2 L. One jug might be a bit shy once you dilute to 50%. Having a second on hand is a good plan. IIRC my BMW dealer isn't out of line on price.

I busted a radiator in my truck a few winters ago because the book capacity for my vehicle was incorrect, so my mix was weak after a flush. It sat in my unheated, detached garage for about a week of sustained single digits. A hygrometer was under $10 from amazon and is cheap insurance going forward.

[Jeb_]

Originally Posted by johnmyster

I've flushed my car once, and then did a drain and refill when I added this oil cooler.

Each time I added right at 1 jug of coolant, and seem to be right a 50% mix. I use bottled distilled water going back in, so I can monitor how much of each goes back.

Listed capacity for our cars is 8.2 L. One jug might be a bit shy once you dilute to 50%. Having a second on hand is a good plan. IIRC my BMW dealer isn't out of line on price.

I busted a radiator in my truck a few winters ago because the book capacity for my vehicle was incorrect, so my mix was weak after a flush. It sat in my unheated, detached garage for about a week of sustained single digits. A hygrometer was under $10 from amazon and is cheap insurance going forward.

Thanks for the reply. I was going to do a flush and a full refill in the next year or so when I replace the water pump (hopefully preventively), I guess I'll atleast do a full drain this time around as well.

[shuotong]

I am wondering if I do the radiator with this, would it give me more room since the cooling fan and radiator are all removed together?

[smass]

Originally Posted by shuotong

I am wondering if I do the radiator with this, would it give me more room since the cooling fan and radiator are all removed together?

You can remove the radiator however most of the work is done above and below it. Removing a radiator without damaging things is not easy. Just getting the old hose off the old radiator can crack things.

My pick and pull has an N52 X5 with the cooler which I can get for $10. Not sure I need a cooler but since it will be cheap and it was 115 degrees here yesterday.

[sam9116]

the additional oil cooler sits directly on top of the accessory belt and increases the risk of oil dripping onto the belt when the oil cooler gasket eventually breaks down. Unless I'm planning on doing a tune I don't think it's worth the risk

[edycol]

Originally Posted by sam9116

the additional oil cooler sits directly on top of the accessory belt and increases the risk of oil dripping onto the belt when the oil cooler gasket eventually breaks down. Unless I'm planning on doing a tune I don't think it's worth the risk

In your climate, you might benefit from faster oil warm up. Fluid/fluid heat exchanger has dual purpose, keeping engine cool (as much as coolant radiator can deliver) and warming up oil faster (this is old trick to meet emissions standards).
I was thinking to go same route, but in my case altitude is an issue, so I had to go full retrofit from 335 of oil cooler radiator as fluid/fluid heat exchanger won't do a trick here.

[CTinline-six]

Originally Posted by sam9116

the additional oil cooler sits directly on top of the accessory belt and increases the risk of oil dripping onto the belt when the oil cooler gasket eventually breaks down. Unless I'm planning on doing a tune I don't think it's worth the risk

Agreed, it isn't worth the risk if not tracking the car.

Originally Posted by edycol

In your climate, you might benefit from faster oil warm up. Fluid/fluid heat exchanger has dual purpose, keeping engine cool (as much as coolant radiator can deliver) and warming up oil faster (this is old trick to meet emissions standards).
I was thinking to go same route, but in my case altitude is an issue, so I had to go full retrofit from 335 of oil cooler radiator as fluid/fluid heat exchanger won't do a trick here.

Faster oil warm up is a benefit, but likely a minimal one especially if using a 5w30 or 0w40 oil. It isn't worth the minimal gains for the greater risk of oil getting onto the belt unless tracking the car in my opinion. Obviously maintenance and keeping up with leaks will eliminate this from the equation, but it's something to think about. I know on my car the OFHG leak seemed to escalate from a small seep to a larger leak rather quickly.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by CTinline-six

Agreed, it isn't worth the risk if not tracking the car.




Faster oil warm up is a benefit, but likely a minimal one especially if using a 5w30 or 0w40 oil. It isn't worth the minimal gains for the greater risk of oil getting onto the belt unless tracking the car in my opinion. Obviously maintenance and keeping up with leaks will eliminate this from the equation, but it's something to think about. I know on my car the OFHG leak seemed to escalate from a small seep to a larger leak rather quickly.

5W30 or 0W40 oils we use in these engines are not energy saving oils. Regarding of CCS value of oil, they will be thick at low temperatures. Heat exchanger will definitely do the trick as at around 0c without one, you will need at least 10km before oil reaches appropriate temperature to use engine safely to full potential. I am not talking cold starts here, but time to warm up oil.
I would not worry about oil leaking from exchanger gasket to belt. The gasket on housing will do that when it gets too brittle. Problem with heat exchanger gasket is that it is known to mix coolant and oil. Also, heat exchanger can fail internally and mix coolant and oil.
I still think you would benefit with this set up in your climate. Also, you can change gaskets preventively. You know well they will fail. OFHG will fail, cooler or not. But, based on my track experience without any cooler, oil will run much hotter than coolant, so with fluid/fluid exchanger you can keep in check temperature and put bit less strain on gaskets in that part.

[neilvan]

The E60 and E83 N52 cars all had this cooler as well as the E90 N52 in hot climates.

My E60 N52 is the highest mileage and the only one to never need an OFHG replacement(YET). I have one waiting to go on my brothers E90 N52 as its a pretty easy replacement and if anything can run these hot running engines, why not(especially in winter climate they take forever to heat up).

I have yet to hear of a water to oil cooler fail but 1 extra gasket which is even easier to change I dont see much of an issue. Just keep an eye on both of them

[edycol]

Originally Posted by neilvan

The E60 and E83 N52 cars all had this cooler as well as the E90 N52 in hot climates.

My E60 N52 is the highest mileage and the only one to never need an OFHG replacement(YET). I have one waiting to go on my brothers E90 N52 as its a pretty easy replacement and if anything can run these hot running engines, why not(especially in winter climate they take forever to heat up).

I have yet to hear of a water to oil cooler fail but 1 extra gasket which is even easier to change I dont see much of an issue. Just keep an eye on both of them

There are some instances of cooler failing.
More common, actually very, is that sometimes gasket separating cooler from OFH leaks in place that separates coolant from oil line, and mixes coolant and oil.
Best thing is just to preventively change it.

[neilvan]

I agree I mean I'm sure it does happen but you are right; Change it when you change the OFHG because BMW apparently cannot make rubber gaskets correctly.

[edycol]

Originally Posted by neilvan

I agree I mean I'm sure it does happen but you are right; Change it when you change the OFHG because BMW apparently cannot make rubber gaskets correctly.

I think gaskets are really good. Problem is temperature to increase efficiency.

[dmytro98]

I can certainly see the use in this for getting your oil up to temp faster, but if you have cooling issues, as someone already mentioned, the 335 oil cooler is the way to go. I paid about $200 in parts for everything used with another $40 or so for new gaskets. at 6000 ft of elevation, when I was bedding in my brake pads, I had to do about 30 4 seconds stops at 50% brake so I did 30 or so back to back 40-80 pulls at wot, and temps stayed at around 240 the entire time in 50f weather. The 335i oil cooler Install is definitely far more intensive as it involves removing the front core support to sandwich in the bracket for the oil cooler but it's more than enough to keep the car cool

[edycol]

Originally Posted by dmytro98

I can certainly see the use in this for getting your oil up to temp faster, but if you have cooling issues, as someone already mentioned, the 335 oil cooler is the way to go. I paid about $200 in parts for everything used with another $40 or so for new gaskets. at 6000 ft of elevation, when I was bedding in my brake pads, I had to do about 30 4 seconds stops at 50% brake so I did 30 or so back to back 40-80 pulls at wot, and temps stayed at around 240 the entire time in 50f weather. The 335i oil cooler Install is definitely far more intensive as it involves removing the front core support to sandwich in the bracket for the oil cooler but it's more than enough to keep the car cool

It is a lot of work. I did it few months ago. I had oil temperature issues at High Plains Raceway so I went this route.
I managed to get oil cooler brand new for $200
The temperature stays at 110c when I am pushing the car very hard over Loveland Pass which is at 11,900ft altitude, and I do it once a week when going skiing at A-Basin.

[sam9116]

Originally Posted by edycol

In your climate, you might benefit from faster oil warm up. Fluid/fluid heat exchanger has dual purpose, keeping engine cool (as much as coolant radiator can deliver) and warming up oil faster (this is old trick to meet emissions standards).
I was thinking to go same route, but in my case altitude is an issue, so I had to go full retrofit from 335 of oil cooler radiator as fluid/fluid heat exchanger won't do a trick here.

it would be beneficial, but I have heated parking so it's less of an issue.

[8081M]

Thanks to johnmyster for the original post. It helped me take the leap.

[BizzleShniz]

For those people who actually do this modification there is some bad information regarding one of the cooling hoses. You should use 11537526941 instead of 11537522999 for e90 applications. While the 11537522999 hose fits, it has a bad clocking of the fitting that attaches to the radiator that is not ideal. Hope this helps.

[Ughandi]

I'll be tackling this soon on my e92. All parts acquired except the hoses (Still not quite certain what exactly what should be replaced to get the job done vs the "while I'm in there" work)

I plan on upgrading the rad to the spiffy CSF simultaneously, so we can reject more heat when the fancy computer decides we need to.

[The Nightman]

Originally Posted by edycol

I think gaskets are really good. Problem is temperature to increase efficiency.

BMW changed the gasket material spec from HNBR to FKM recently (see Elring catalogue). Hopefully FKM is more durable

https://polymerdatabase.com/Elastomers/HNBR.html
https://polymerdatabase.com/Elastomers/FKM.html