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      08-02-2020, 12:58 AM   #1
aphael
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E92 328i 3 stage intake PCV hose help

Hey guys i just tore into my car to swap the 3 stage intake. I assumed this was a easy drop in swap but after removing the intake manifold, I found that the pcv hose setup is different. I got my 3stage im from a 530i 2007 with 2 ports that are going to an oil separator, which has 2 holes coming out from it.

I have a 2007 328i which originally has 2 ports from the intake going directly into the pcv. Right now I am totally confused and need help on what hose I need to buy to route it directly into the pcv port on the back of the engine.

Any help is appreciated, I have to get this car running asap as it is my daily.
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      08-02-2020, 03:25 AM   #2
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This might help:
https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1689858

You can ultimately ditch the PCV “nugget” from the 5er 3IM and run a piece of vacuum hose to the port on your valve cover.
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      08-02-2020, 03:50 AM   #3
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You use your stock 328i hose. It plugs right in to the 3 stage manifold if the manifold is a dual port. Just get rid of the oil separator and all that bs the 3 stage has attached to it from the donor cars pcv system. I too used a 530 manifold for my 328, just make sure you test the disas before putting the 3 stage in place


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      08-02-2020, 04:29 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92William View Post
You use your stock 328i hose. It plugs right in to the 3 stage manifold if the manifold is a dual port. Just get rid of the oil separator and all that bs the 3 stage has attached to it from the donor cars pcv system. I too used a 530 manifold for my 328, just make sure you test the disas before putting the 3 stage in place


So are you saying I can completely remove the oil separator on the intake manifold and run the line directly there? exactly as the original?

I saw another post where they plugged up one of the lines by using a pcv hose angle connector with heating element. and also running the vacuum line.

I'm not sure but I just had my pcv recall done, is it the same part as I may reuse it since I did not break it in removing, also have a new one but may return
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      08-02-2020, 04:53 AM   #5
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Yes when you take off your pcv hose from the stock manifold you will see it has two ports. These go perfectly into the 2 ports of the 3 stage manifold. Keep your stock pcv heater just swap it over since it's the updated one to be sure. There's no reason to plug anything unless you have an early model 325i or bought the manifold from an early 330i, they had the single port manifold version. Get rid of all the oil separator and such.

Here's how the hose looks on the 3 stage, bottom manifold.
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      08-03-2020, 02:31 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92William View Post
Yes when you take off your pcv hose from the stock manifold you will see it has two ports. These go perfectly into the 2 ports of the 3 stage manifold. Keep your stock pcv heater just swap it over since it's the updated one to be sure. There's no reason to plug anything unless you have an early model 325i or bought the manifold from an early 330i, they had the single port manifold version. Get rid of all the oil separator and such.

Here's how the hose looks on the 3 stage, bottom manifold.
Thank you so much, it fits beautifully, now I have a problem with my cheap INPA cable as it cant be detected. Thanks for all your help!
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      08-03-2020, 01:33 PM   #7
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Make sure you go on device manager and set the cable to COM1 and data transfer speed or whatever to 1ms or it won't recognize the cable. Sometimes you might have a couple devices in the COM part of the device manager none of which say they're the cable itself so you kind of have to fiddle around changing different ones to COM1 to get it to recognize. You should always use the bimmergeeks one regardless but glad it helped
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      08-03-2020, 05:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92William View Post
Make sure you go on device manager and set the cable to COM1 and data transfer speed or whatever to 1ms or it won't recognize the cable. Sometimes you might have a couple devices in the COM part of the device manager none of which say they're the cable itself so you kind of have to fiddle around changing different ones to COM1 to get it to recognize. You should always use the bimmergeeks one regardless but glad it helped
or you just use another com port setting and change it in the obd.ini text.


avoids confilct with hardware ports.
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      08-04-2020, 12:51 PM   #9
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it doesn't really have to be COM1. But the COM port listed in obd.ini has to match the actual COM port in your device manager, which could be almost anything. But more than likely, it is COM1 because people don't really use serial ports much anymore.
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      08-04-2020, 01:53 PM   #10
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I meant because you're plugging it to a usb where anything can be used as COM1 or so I think. All I know is it worked for me
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      08-04-2020, 02:11 PM   #11
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Right, but the Bimmergeeks instructions make it seem like it has to be on COM1 to work, but it doesn't. It's just that by default, obd.ini has it set to COM1, so instead of pointing people to edit obd.ini to set it to whatever your actual COM port is, they say to change your cable to COM1. It actually doesn't matter either way, they just have to be the same in both places.
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      08-05-2020, 03:28 AM   #12
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Got it to work, had some sort of bad driver I guess for the INPA which made it have no script. Just ordered my disas from FCP euro as they were bad. Large one moved like 20% and small one didnt even move. Really interesting 50$ project turned into 800$
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      08-05-2020, 03:51 AM   #13
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I've had good luck fixing up disas that moved slowly. If they don't respond at all or have shaft play they're usually gone. The two on my car were sluggers and now are in good shape. But you're of course better off with new oem ones.
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      08-05-2020, 03:53 PM   #14
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Yeah unfortunately, the small one didn't move at all and the large one had a lot of play with the flaps. I was thinking of rebuilding them but I don't want to ruin my engine if I messed up. Also, these are the old versions of the disas. I have been reading your posts as well but you may have the newer version of the disas which are usually just oil failures.
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      08-05-2020, 07:34 PM   #15
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Yeah I took mines apart this afternoon. While these I got from the junkyard are from an x3 2008 and are the new version, the design isn't perfect. The small disa has a rod that goes all the way through to prevent play that's all good, but the large one has a split rod because Bmw ofc had to use the same length rod on both lol which is likely why the large one ends up getting play and snapping off

Either way all fcp Euro stuff is new and should be the latest revision so
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      08-05-2020, 09:22 PM   #16
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Never thought to compare the two. I wonder if that's actually the reason.
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      08-05-2020, 11:34 PM   #17
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Wondering what oil or grease to use on the disa valve gears. The ones on my car I just reused the old grease. Could silicone lubricant spray be fine? Or should I use some 20w50 I got laying around.
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      08-06-2020, 12:45 AM   #18
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I think in one of the forums someone used silicone lubricant and jb weld to seal them back together or formic acid
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      08-06-2020, 12:54 AM   #19
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Oh no I don't mean to seal the casing. I mean I'm between the gears inside the disa and the motor worm gear. I used silicone lubricant and I'm testing it right now I don't think I'm liking it too much I think it might be causing sticking but I'll have to confirm and try with motor oil

EDIT: the grease works fine I just had a dying motor. I'm using oil now instead of it and I think it's quieter with it. Either way I like the film the oil has on the gears instead of the very thin nothing the spray lubricant does
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      Yesterday, 09:02 AM   #20
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I would use a thicker silicone grease.

something that will stay on there when it's warm.
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      Yesterday, 07:37 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aphael View Post
I think in one of the forums someone used silicone lubricant and jb weld to seal them back together or formic acid
That's what most of the rebuild kits recommend. You literally melt it back together with the formic acid.
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      Yesterday, 07:40 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E92William View Post
Oh no I don't mean to seal the casing. I mean I'm between the gears inside the disa and the motor worm gear. I used silicone lubricant and I'm testing it right now I don't think I'm liking it too much I think it might be causing sticking but I'll have to confirm and try with motor oil

EDIT: the grease works fine I just had a dying motor. I'm using oil now instead of it and I think it's quieter with it. Either way I like the film the oil has on the gears instead of the very thin nothing the spray lubricant does
It is a good idea to lubricate. I believe I used white lithium grease.
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