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Car dies while driving, random no start's
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07-14-2019, 12:29 AM | #1 |
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Car dies while driving, random no start's
I have a 2009 335i and its been acting very strange recently. I have seen a variety of behavior in the past 2-3 days, for example, it died (all electronics went black) for about 2 seconds while going 60 mph and then everything turned back on. It has also died at lower speeds (that time I had to actually start the car back up), and sometimes if I park and later try to start the car back up, all the electronics go black.
I know there was a recall for the power cable on the car and I took it apart a bit and sure enough, I saw the splice in my power cable where the recall was performed. I don't think this problem is related to that though. I know its not my battery either because it hovers around 12.5 volts and I load tested it and everything seems to be in order. Its not my alternator because I get around 13.6-13.9 volts when the car is turned on. The weird thing is, when my car is won't start, sometimes if I wait 2-3 minutes and try again, it will start up. I have also had luck going in the trunk and disconnecting/reconnecting the negative terminal to start it. I was thinking maybe I have a bad ground connection, but thought I'd post here and see if anyone has more knowledge regarding these types of issues. |
07-14-2019, 01:42 AM | #2 | |
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07-14-2019, 02:18 AM | #3 | |
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Its just weird that disconnecting/reconnecting my negative terminal turns my electronics back on when it happens. |
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07-14-2019, 02:49 AM | #4 | |
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07-14-2019, 02:57 AM | #5 |
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07-14-2019, 03:04 AM | #7 |
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I had the problem with the power cable but I fixed it in the past. There was some buildup on the terminal and I sanded it down so that cable could fit on completely. I do think a fuse has blown cause i was hearing a clicking in the fuse box when I tried to start the car. Ill also check the ground strap because heat is most likely the cause as I was running the car HARD at over 100 degrees.
Last edited by 320IN54; 07-14-2019 at 03:10 AM.. |
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07-14-2019, 03:07 AM | #8 | |
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Another thing that is often overlooked is the condition of the battery terminal posts and the battery cable clamps. Make sure they are very clean. If in doubt clean them so they ate nice and shiny, and pay special attention to the inside face of the clamps where they come into contact with the battery posts Last edited by N52bigblock; 07-14-2019 at 03:30 AM.. |
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07-14-2019, 03:33 AM | #9 | |
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07-14-2019, 09:20 AM | #11 |
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Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Holly, MI
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Alternator ?
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07-14-2019, 03:21 PM | #12 |
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07-17-2019, 03:25 AM | #15 |
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Good to hear. I have seen batteries bulge before. Not sure what causes it but my opinion is it is sulphation building up on the plates inside the battery and pushing out against the casing. How old was the battery? Was it genuine BMW?
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07-17-2019, 08:34 AM | #16 | |
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For you and anyone who keeps saying battery is fine because i measured the 12.5V. Thats not how a battery is measured. It has to be measured when its under load When is a battery under highest load?. The highest load is when ur cranking. ( Drawing most current) You can get a min max DMM (multimeter) and run it during cranking and record lowest voltage drop. Ideally should not go lower than 9.7V. In this case a battery will appear fine under no load, then when its under a little more stress it can collapse to below 8V and shut everything. There are meters that will load a battery and test is response curve but are not really needed for when a battery is really bad. |
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07-17-2019, 11:27 AM | #17 | |
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Did you/shop note any loose or corroded connections at battery terminals or chassis ground? Did you/shop check for battery acid or water in the battery well? Did you/shop check for corrosion of the "Transfer Points" forward of battery? Did you/shop scan DME & CAS for any Fault Codes? WHAT WERE those FAULT CODES??? Did you/shop test old battery in any way, and if so what tests & results? Did ANY warning lamps/icons ever appear on the Instrument Cluster before or after a "shutdown" incident? I have seen batteries "flunk" an in-car "Load Test" where battery voltage read 12.5V or more with a voltmeter, but just clicked the Starter Solenoid and then showed ~ 10V instead of 12V+. That behavior is due to an internal fault or "Bad Cell" where once the voltage has dropped from the application of Load (Starter Cranking) the battery does NOT recover on its own and then crank the starter. You CAN recharge it and get a 12V+ voltage reading, but as soon as you apply load again, the same thing happens -- Starter won't crank and voltage drops to 10V range. I'm NOT guaranteeing that a faulty battery can't possibly fail for several seconds and then work again, but I can't imagine that happening if you are cruising at 60, with alternator operating and suddenly "all electronics went black" for several seconds, with normal operation returning after several seconds. What I CAN state is that in 55+ years of maintaining my own vehicles, I have NEVER seen such a thing, and I have NOT seen any scientifically-explained reported case of a battery causing such a thing. ANY loose B+ connection, or ground connection COULD cause such behavior. Also a bulging battery case suggests internal pressure, possibly from "Over-voltage" or system voltage in excess of 15V overheating the battery internally and "boiling battery acid.You can monitor System Voltage as you drive using "Hidden Menu 9.00". That is why I asked about liquid in the battery well, and condition of the "Transfer Points." In short, a "bulging battery" which still cranks the Starter is likely to be a symptom of a "yet-unidentified" fault rather than the CAUSE of the "shutdown." You risk damage to expensive Electronic Modules if there is an intermittent "disconnection" of the battery while the engine is running, due to a loose B+ or Ground connection. Please get codes read in DME at least (Generic P-Code reader at Advance Auto, etc.), and preferably ALSO in CAS module, and let us know the result of that Scan. George |
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07-18-2019, 03:27 AM | #18 | |
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07-18-2019, 03:39 AM | #19 | |
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I also did the hidden menu trick to monitor the voltage while driving and it hovered around 13.6-14. I got all these codes from the DME after it shut off: CDA9, CDA8, CDA6, CDA0, CD9F, CD95, CD94, 2F4C, 2DEC, 2DC3, 2C9E, 2C73, 2AB4. The problem was very consistent (would almost always shut off electronics when starting the car the first time) and I haven't seen anything weird since replacing the battery so i'm hopeful its gone. |
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07-18-2019, 03:42 AM | #20 |
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Not sure how old the battery was as i'm the second owner and only had the car about 6 months, definitely not genuine BMW though.
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07-18-2019, 11:24 AM | #21 | |
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Based upon everything you've posted here, there likely WAS an internal fault in the battery which caused intermittent shutdown, possibly related to internal battery temperature, and if there was a prior "Over-voltage" situation due to faulty Voltage Regulator, that was likely a primary contributing factor. I had just never seen a battery shut down for a second or two and then recover without recharging, so I am trying to learn from your experience. Was the old battery AGM or FLA? The two codes from the group you listed that seem most relevant (Bentley Definitions -- NOTE 2 different definitions for "2DEC", & 4 different Definitions for "2DC3"; check P-code or the definition provided by YOUR Scan Tool): P160A | 2DEC | Powermanagement Exhaustive Discharge P160B | 2DEC | Powermanagement Defective P15B0 | 2DC3 | Terminal 15 Sense Circuit Input High P15B1 | 2DC3 | Terminal 15 Sense Circuit Input Low P15B2 | 2DC3 | Terminal 15 Sense Circuit CAS Error P15B3 | 2DC3 | Terminal 15 Sense Circuit Range / Performance BMW Fault Code Lookup Definitions: 2DEC | DME: Power management, battery | msd80 2DC3 | DME: Monitoring, terminal 15 | msd80 Thanks for sharing your info so we can learn something, George |
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02-05-2021, 10:42 PM | #22 |
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Stopped driving the 2008 335i regularly and time resets on every start. Inpa codes point to potentially a bigger issue:
0x2E8D Intelligent battery sensor, signal transmission / P151A battery sensor terminal 15/30 wakeup malfunction 0x2DC3 Monitoring of terminal 15 / P15B2 Terminal 15 monitoring circuit - CAS (Car Access System) Same codes point to IBS as discussed here: https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/i...-help.1258336/ Battery is 6 years old, will likely start from replacing |
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