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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Technical Forums > DIY Guides > DIY: Sticking Steering Column Lock Fix



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      07-27-2017, 01:15 PM   #133
florodebat
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yakev724 All the images included in the steering wheel DIY appears to be unavailable. This is a great DIY so I am wondering if you could re-upload the images?
Thanks
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      08-02-2017, 12:43 PM   #134
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I got the same steering lock problem in My E90.
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      08-02-2017, 12:46 PM   #135
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All the images included in the steering wheel DIY appears to be unavailable!!!
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      08-29-2017, 08:01 AM   #136
osianbw
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Angry

So I've developed this same issue with my e91 '06, my quote from the stealership was GBP 972. They say that only replacing the steering column will fix the problem. I'm going to take in to an indy and see if they can update the cars software and solve the issue that way otherwise they'll be doing the column too. I'm disgusted that BMW wouldn't offer any goodwill toward the repair, especially as this is a fault with their component!

I was interested to read this walk through but without the pictures it makes it difficult. I found yakev724's photobucket page and the images show up in it, but unfortunately you can't see all of them full size. Here's the link, even as thumbnails they should help you get the gist.

http://s293.photobucket.com/user/yak...?sort=3&page=1
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      09-24-2017, 06:03 PM   #137
berne
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredrik_Sweden View Post
I am glad I found this thread, I have had trouble with the ELV on my E91 -06 for about 1,5 years. I took it apart and lubricated all parts + tacking the electric motor apart and cleaned it for about 1 year ago.

2 weeks ago it started to show yellow light again after working perfectly for 1 year

So I decided to try the emulator after reading this thread. It works perfectly!

So I thought I could share some info about how I did it:

1. I have soldered the connection pins on the circuteboard.





2. No plastic casing for the curcitboard was included, so I made on in my CAD program and printed in my company’s 3D-printer






3. Connecting it to the car was super easy, about 20min job.

- Remove the kick panel, only 3 T20 screws.
- Put key into car and check that the ELV unlocks the steering wheel.


- Disconnect the battery in the trunk


- Disconnect the ELV-cable you can access it easy from the underside where you have removed the kick panel.


- Note that the ELV-cable connection-pins are marked 1 2 3 4. Number 1 pin must be connected to the number 1 pin on the curcitboard (it is marked).




- Connect the Emulator.

- Reconnect the car battery. And insert key. You will see a small LED on the curcitboard flash when the Emulator is working.

Best regards
Fredrik /Sweden

Visa har det bra☺️ Har samma problem, men kan inte få låstet att släppa så vet inte vad jag ska göra,
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      02-08-2018, 12:44 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sorin_nsk View Post
Hello,

I have a BMW e90 320d from 2005 with Comfort Access (keyless go) and I have experienced the same problem. After a week in the parking lot, my car got the yellow lock error and would not start for 3 days. I should mention as i think it is very important that the battery went weak and this most probably triggered the problem. I changed the car's battery and still yellow lock error. But this morning I went to have another try and the error was gone and the car started with no problem....and no error.

I I have read in this forum the problem might come back as this is a ELV locking system common issue.

I will be back with updates

Regards !
Sorin
ROMANIA

Hello my friends, my name is Mihai. I'm from Romania and I own a BMW E90 from 2006. I'm using it from 6years now. One night this summer my dear 👿 devil lock the steering wheel and a had to tow it at home. Just getting it down my crazy car starts without any errors stored in ecu. After Christmas happened one more time but this time a had to let it rest for three days. One error was stored: A0BD output wake-up line for pt can. After three days it was possible to use it til the end of January. From then was practically impossible to start it. After reading this post, thank you for the good and precise instructions, I've fallow all the instructions, clean the lock and did a visual inspection of it. Everything was like new. Then I have read the post of sorin_nsk and indeed was the door handle. I have keyless entry. After disconnect the Handel the car started without problems. I've done some more testing inserting the cable in the handle/no start locking steering pictogram, disconnect the cable start like new. In conclusion thanks to all for helping me. Good luck to all!
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      09-12-2018, 01:24 PM   #139
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Hi, I'm following these steps and have got to: Step 11 - Jack up front left wheel and turn wheel approximately 5 degrees

How would I go about getting to the pinch bolt if the steering is locked?
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      09-14-2018, 11:06 AM   #140
e90london
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Success!!

As a follow up to my above post...

I was getting the amber warning light, car not starting. Just before it happened I was waiting in my car for approx 1 hour, may have a left a light on and drained the battery. When I went to start I got the ding and couldn't get it started.

After attempting a jump start I tried to reset the software using an OBD cable, resetting the csv & elv setting, no joy. I then replaced the battery, according the the shop I had the original from 12 years ago! Replaced it but still got the warning and couldn't start.

I'm no mechanic but was refusing to part with the 'serious cash' my mechanic said it may cost to lift it and fix it, so tried the DIY. I ordered a set of Torx sockets and the 5 corner torx tamper proof bits from Amazon, both for £15. As someone else recommended I didn't remove the steering wheel, the cover in behind can be removed with a small flat head. I couldn't move the wheel to get at the pinch bolt as the wheel was locked. However, I could move the wheel the smallest amount, then used the seat belt to tie it in position, which enabled me to get at it from the engine bay. It was really tight but I just had enough space to get the wrench in.

Rest was straight forward. I removed the locking mechanism, which looked in good nick, and just reset the position to open and put it all back together. Car started first time! Only time I needed an extra pair of hand was to bolt the column back on and realign with pinch bolt in the engine bay. Once I figured out what I was doing and had the right tools it took around 2 hours to complete.

Thanks yakev724 for the original post , images seem to be working fine for me and I would have been lost without them. Fingers cross she holds up!
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      06-30-2019, 11:52 AM   #141
rathersmart
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my ELV was actually toast. my solution required an ELV emulator

Step 1 - Tools Used
Step 2 - Set up good lighting to the steering column area
Step 7 - Remove lower steering column shroud
Step 8 - Unscrew the lower kick panel
Step 9 - Remove the lower kick panel
Step 10 - Remove the rubber steering column shaft boot I actually couldn't remove it so i just undid it from the bulkhead and moved it up the shaft
Step 12 - Remove pinch bolt
Step 13 - Remove clock spring connectors
Step 14 - Remove steering column bolts
Step 15 - Remove steering column lock connector
Step 16 - Remove 2 wire harness clips along column
Step 17 - Remove steering column
Step 18 - Remove 3 "Torx Plus Security" Bolts I used the 5 point security bits
Step 19 - Remove plastic cover and mechanism

New Steps
new step 1 - drill a hole on the opposite side of the housing to punch the pin out. there is a hole on one side to install the pin and you will see it clearly. on the opposite side of the housing there is no hole. drill there to punch it out. the pin is what allows the lock to pivot. one red circle is the pin and the second red circle is the approximate location to drill

new step 2 - plug ELV emulator into the ELV connector

installation is reversal of removal

Last edited by rathersmart; 06-30-2019 at 11:58 AM..
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      11-11-2019, 09:04 AM   #142
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Question

My 2012 E93 broke its ELV some weeks ago, in an opened position. I think the E90 models changed though over the years, it's still called E9x but these models got the dreaded ELV in the steering column designed back in, with the same issues as the older that was referenced in the start of this thread.

So, it's currently at the BMW dealer who says its out of warranty, and their "fix" is to replace the whole steering column (as before...) and they want more than $2000 for this.

Aside from the obvious annoyance that BMW keeps doing these shitty designs with the expensive fixes, does anyone know in what way these newer E90 models are different from the one in the OP in this thread?

I'm considering getting one of those 4-pin ELV emulators just to get it working so I can drive it from the BMW dealer to an indie who could just swap the steering column to a used one or actually fix the lock.

I'm also trying to get BMW to handle it out of goodwill as this issue seems like a super-common thing and is simply based on low quality / bad design from their part, but I don't have any high hopes.
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      11-19-2019, 01:04 PM   #143
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I have a 2007 bmw 328xi, Ive had the red steering wheel lock for awhile now, Im having my CAS be reprogrammed to act as if its a 2009, and then I am going to replace the steering column with a used one also from 2009 without the steering wheel lock mechanism. Would this work?
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      11-19-2019, 01:05 PM   #144
jtaliene92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckman View Post
My 2012 E93 broke its ELV some weeks ago, in an opened position. I think the E90 models changed though over the years, it's still called E9x but these models got the dreaded ELV in the steering column designed back in, with the same issues as the older that was referenced in the start of this thread.

So, it's currently at the BMW dealer who says its out of warranty, and their "fix" is to replace the whole steering column (as before...) and they want more than $2000 for this.

Aside from the obvious annoyance that BMW keeps doing these shitty designs with the expensive fixes, does anyone know in what way these newer E90 models are different from the one in the OP in this thread?

I'm considering getting one of those 4-pin ELV emulators just to get it working so I can drive it from the BMW dealer to an indie who could just swap the steering column to a used one or actually fix the lock.

I'm also trying to get BMW to handle it out of goodwill as this issue seems like a super-common thing and is simply based on low quality / bad design from their part, but I don't have any high hopes.
Good luck trying to get BMW to pay for it, I tried that and they wont even recognize that its a bad design.
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      11-22-2019, 05:28 PM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtaliene92 View Post
Good luck trying to get BMW to pay for it, I tried that and they wont even recognize that its a bad design.
Actually BMW Sweden told me they would cover it on goodwill if the local BMW representative agreed. They were the ones who suggested I should call them. But then they screwed it up somehow, so now they won't pay for it..

Anyway, they also want an exorbitant amount of money for the steering column part, around $2100 (even without labour), which is crazy in itself as the OEM part costs $600 or so and the job of switching it is like 1 hour max. I think BMW does this to scam the insurance companies as normally the end customer won't pay for it.

I too found the columns used in good condition (from cars the same milage as mine) for around $300, including the ELV, so one option for me is to just get a used one as you suggest and let an indie swap it out. But yes I heard the CAS on the pre-2009 E90's is part of the problem so in your case, you might just end up in the same situation again if you do it I guess. Swap it and then sell the car
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      09-25-2020, 08:02 PM   #146
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Thank you so much, I was installing my a msport wheel the other day and used an impact to zip out the 16mm holding the wheel. It wasn't until I was done installing the wheel that I got the ELV warning. It was a lot of fun to remove the module . The silicon grease I used was super lube, you can get it from Ace Hardware or Harbor Freight. I was unable to move my steering wheel at all, but if you have the steering wheel at top dead center you can get away with a short 8mm wrench. For the Torx Plus Security bits I just used a flat head screw driver from my I fit it kit, the bolts arent torques down very much so it was easy to take out. Also make sure not to turn the wheel when you have the steering column removed, otherwise you risk ripping the clock spring cable which I did.
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