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      11-26-2019, 03:29 PM   #1
kazbek1
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New 9"Joying Android head unit, quick review

I installed this Joying Android headunit (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000...7dc64c4d0ybJNP) last week so I wanted to give a quick review on it. It's super fast, has a lot of storage, and allows me to download practically any app from the Google Play store. I use Spotify, Pandora, and YouTube for music/videos, Waze for navigation, and will be able to run the MHD app once I install it. I use my phone as a mobile hotspot so I'm always connected to the internet and can stream music from my phone via bluetooth.
Because I have the Logic 7 system, I had to purchase a MOST fiber optic converter thing: (https://avinusa.com/most-fiber-optic...7-e88-e89.html) in order to configure the audio.
Due to the size of the screen, I lost the separate seat warmer control switches that were located below the climate control knobs. I've read with other head units you have to relocate them in order to keep that feature. However, this head unit allow you to access the heated seat functions directly through the screen so I don't need to relocate it. All I do is disconnect it from the climate control module.
Anyways, I just wanted to share my experience. I did buy the head unit for $210 and it looks like they bumped the price up but honestly, I think it's still worth the price.


Last edited by kazbek1; 11-26-2019 at 03:55 PM..
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      12-08-2019, 04:20 PM   #2
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That looks really cool! Well done
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      01-05-2020, 10:49 PM   #3
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Any updates on this? Still happy?
Thanks
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      01-07-2020, 04:29 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by dan4081 View Post
Any updates on this? Still happy?
Thanks
Well I had to buy a MOST adapter for the fiber optic input because I have the stock Logic system. Without it, there would be no audio. If I didn't have the upgraded sound system, you wouldn't need it. Anyways, all the programs and apps run great but 50% of the time after I start my car, there's no audio. I have to restart the head unit 3 or 4 times until I finally get sound. I'm not sure if I wired it incorrectly, if it's the MOST adapter, or the head unit itself that's causing this issue.

Also, it keeps displaying everything in metric units so I have to go into the options everytime and change it. That part's annoying but takes 3 seconds to fix. The audio not working randomly is what's really bothering me. I'm sending the adapter back and getting a new one so I'm hoping that's the issue. I'll keep you updated.
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      01-08-2020, 07:29 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazbek1 View Post
Well I had to buy a MOST adapter for the fiber optic input because I have the stock Logic system. Without it, there would be no audio. If I didn't have the upgraded sound system, you wouldn't need it. Anyways, all the programs and apps run great but 50% of the time after I start my car, there's no audio. I have to restart the head unit 3 or 4 times until I finally get sound. I'm not sure if I wired it incorrectly, if it's the MOST adapter, or the head unit itself that's causing this issue.

Also, it keeps displaying everything in metric units so I have to go into the options every time and change it. That part's annoying but takes 3 seconds to fix. The audio not working randomly is what's really bothering me. I'm sending the adapter back and getting a new one so I'm hoping that's the issue. I'll keep you updated.
Total newb to the BMW world here . But not so new to troubleshooting. The settings issue sounds like it is losing memory. There is usually a requirement to have the HU connected to a constant 12 VDC source (either battery or an 'always on' connection via a fuse box).

The other issue with sound- do all the other functions of the radio seem to work? If so, it might be the MOST adapter or its connections, as that is the translator (roughly speaking) to send sound to the logic 7 system. If you have to restart the HU a few times, it kind of sounds like that is not getting signal or working properly. A troubleshooting step might be to pull it all out (while still electrically connected) and re-seat all connections/look for loose connections. I have seen a few other threads where people talked about a connection being loose enough that some vibration (like driving the car around) got the connection loose. Or it might be the driver of the HU - sending the sound signal to the MOST adapter, the adapter itself. If is plays at all, it is probably wired correctly, but might need some tweaking to 'make perfect'.

Good luck dude and let us know how it goes!

How are you liking the rest of the functionality?
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      01-08-2020, 01:38 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by activereality View Post
Total newb to the BMW world here . But not so new to troubleshooting. The settings issue sounds like it is losing memory. There is usually a requirement to have the HU connected to a constant 12 VDC source (either battery or an 'always on' connection via a fuse box).

The other issue with sound- do all the other functions of the radio seem to work? If so, it might be the MOST adapter or its connections, as that is the translator (roughly speaking) to send sound to the logic 7 system. If you have to restart the HU a few times, it kind of sounds like that is not getting signal or working properly. A troubleshooting step might be to pull it all out (while still electrically connected) and re-seat all connections/look for loose connections. I have seen a few other threads where people talked about a connection being loose enough that some vibration (like driving the car around) got the connection loose. Or it might be the driver of the HU - sending the sound signal to the MOST adapter, the adapter itself. If is plays at all, it is probably wired correctly, but might need some tweaking to 'make perfect'.

Good luck dude and let us know how it goes!

How are you liking the rest of the functionality?
Thanks so much for your help man. I have a couple questions if you don't mind looking them over'

1. Referencing the memory issue, you said "There is usually a requirement to have the HU connected to a constant 12 VDC source (either battery or an 'always on' connection via a fuse box)". What does this mean exactly? Here's instructions they sent me to troubleshoot myself before sending the MOST adapter back:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5c...1oS3Vfd2M/view

Mine looks like the picture on the left with both the red and yellow wire. What do you think I would need to do to maintain my settings? When I go into my settings and change it to the units I want, all is fine. When I turn the car off and then back on, it'll display the correct units on the screen between the speedo and tach but as the HU is booting up, it'll eventually switch to metric.

2. The original instructions had me connect the yellow wire from the MOST adapter to the yellow wire from my HU (BATT +12V) and the red wire from the MOST adapter to the blue wire from my HU (ANT-CONT). But the directions from the above link implies that both the yellow and red wire from the MOST should be connected to the same yellow BATT +12V wire from the HU. Is this right? I rewired it like this and it seems to have fixed the audio problem I think. I would just hate to go out to my car in a few hours and it be dead because the HU stayed on or something.

Besides the memory/audio problem, the HU is perfect. Very fast processor, large clear display, a lot of different features to choose from, and doesn't look too cheesy. Anyways, sorry if I just blasted you in the face with these questions all of a sudden. If you can help, I'd greatly appreciate it.
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      01-08-2020, 02:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazbek1 View Post
Thanks so much for your help man. I have a couple questions if you don't mind looking them over'

1. Referencing the memory issue, you said "There is usually a requirement to have the HU connected to a constant 12 VDC source (either battery or an 'always on' connection via a fuse box)". What does this mean exactly? Here's instructions they sent me to troubleshoot myself before sending the MOST adapter back:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5c...1oS3Vfd2M/view

Mine looks like the picture on the left with both the red and yellow wire. What do you think I would need to do to maintain my settings? When I go into my settings and change it to the units I want, all is fine. When I turn the car off and then back on, it'll display the correct units on the screen between the speedo and tach but as the HU is booting up, it'll eventually switch to metric.

2. The original instructions had me connect the yellow wire from the MOST adapter to the yellow wire from my HU (BATT +12V) and the red wire from the MOST adapter to the blue wire from my HU (ANT-CONT). But the directions from the above link implies that both the yellow and red wire from the MOST should be connected to the same yellow BATT +12V wire from the HU. Is this right? I rewired it like this and it seems to have fixed the audio problem I think. I would just hate to go out to my car in a few hours and it be dead because the HU stayed on or something.

Besides the memory/audio problem, the HU is perfect. Very fast processor, large clear display, a lot of different features to choose from, and doesn't look too cheesy. Anyways, sorry if I just blasted you in the face with these questions all of a sudden. If you can help, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Hey there!

No problem at all, we learn together!! Great to hear that the unit is working well (other than these small gripes/problems). I almost went with one of these kinds of units for my e92, but decided to get the Dynavin, mostly due to the US available support. I am sure some of these Android models are very nice and work great, I just wanted to ensure I could get assistance from someone from my local country haha! Also, I hit them up via FB, and they contacted me back in a super short period of time and answered all of my annoying questions!

Great job getting more documentation from the company! They sometimes seem to hide things on their website- it is available, just hard to find! haha.

First up, just to clarify, these appear to be two _different_ problems.

Problem 1. Settings not being saved at next startup (after some time has passed)
Problem 2. No sound at startup -Intermittently

They both have the commonality of being at startup, but they are different discrepancies (in all likelihood).

Problem 2. Seems you might have fixed this with their updated wiring instructions. I agree it is odd that they seem to be instructing to connect both the red and yellow to 12VDC 'Switched' (not a car guy, so someone else can clarify if wrong - I am assuming 'switched' means 12vdc supplied once the key/ignition is 'ON'). The Adapter can get power from the accessory power, as the MOST Adapter does not need power if the radio is not on/in use.

Problem 1. What I meant here, by 12VDC constant - these HU's generally need a constant voltage source to maintain a 'volatile' memory. This is memory that is lost after being powered down. This is typically done by either tapping into a wire, or using a fuse tap (i prefer fuse taps, cleaner, and no cutting into OEM wires.

This can take a bit longer to isolate, as the HU might keep the memory, charged by something internal (small UPS or Caps), or it may continue getting accessory power from the car, so you would have to close the doors, lock them, then sit there for 20 minutes (i think that is the ACC relay cutoff). After that, the memory of the HU would be lost, and any settings would be factory defaults when you power back up - which will also make boot up a bit longer I would think.

The research I have done on my own e92 335i from 2008 is that the fuse panel on the passenger side, behind(actually in front of) the glove compartment has some 'always live' 12VDC slots. I'll be looking in there later this week to find a slot for me to use for my Dynavin unit coming in. However, (again from my limited understanding) these fuse boards are all a bit different based on year, model, options (the last being a major factor).

Refer to any manual that came with the unit for that constant power - or pop a link here and I'll see if I can decipher some of it .

- Thanks!
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      01-08-2020, 03:12 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by activereality View Post
Hey there!

No problem at all, we learn together!! Great to hear that the unit is working well (other than these small gripes/problems). I almost went with one of these kinds of units for my e92, but decided to get the Dynavin, mostly due to the US available support. I am sure some of these Android models are very nice and work great, I just wanted to ensure I could get assistance from someone from my local country haha! Also, I hit them up via FB, and they contacted me back in a super short period of time and answered all of my annoying questions!

Great job getting more documentation from the company! They sometimes seem to hide things on their website- it is available, just hard to find! haha.

First up, just to clarify, these appear to be two _different_ problems.

Problem 1. Settings not being saved at next startup (after some time has passed)
Problem 2. No sound at startup -Intermittently

They both have the commonality of being at startup, but they are different discrepancies (in all likelihood).

Problem 2. Seems you might have fixed this with their updated wiring instructions. I agree it is odd that they seem to be instructing to connect both the red and yellow to 12VDC 'Switched' (not a car guy, so someone else can clarify if wrong - I am assuming 'switched' means 12vdc supplied once the key/ignition is 'ON'). The Adapter can get power from the accessory power, as the MOST Adapter does not need power if the radio is not on/in use.

Problem 1. What I meant here, by 12VDC constant - these HU's generally need a constant voltage source to maintain a 'volatile' memory. This is memory that is lost after being powered down. This is typically done by either tapping into a wire, or using a fuse tap (i prefer fuse taps, cleaner, and no cutting into OEM wires.

This can take a bit longer to isolate, as the HU might keep the memory, charged by something internal (small UPS or Caps), or it may continue getting accessory power from the car, so you would have to close the doors, lock them, then sit there for 20 minutes (i think that is the ACC relay cutoff). After that, the memory of the HU would be lost, and any settings would be factory defaults when you power back up - which will also make boot up a bit longer I would think.

The research I have done on my own e92 335i from 2008 is that the fuse panel on the passenger side, behind(actually in front of) the glove compartment has some 'always live' 12VDC slots. I'll be looking in there later this week to find a slot for me to use for my Dynavin unit coming in. However, (again from my limited understanding) these fuse boards are all a bit different based on year, model, options (the last being a major factor).

Refer to any manual that came with the unit for that constant power - or pop a link here and I'll see if I can decipher some of it .

- Thanks!
Wow. Thanks for your in depth response. I really appreciate it. And yes, it sounds like what you explained is what's going on with my head unit: when my car is on and the HU is running, then I turn the car off and turn it back on within a few seconds or even minutes, the main screen pops right up (almost like it was just asleep and didn't fully turn off) and the settings remain unchanged. But if I restart the HU maunally and let it boot back up or an extended amount of time passes between shut down and restart, I see the displays initially show the correct units but then they change to metric after it boots up.

I'll look for the install manual and see if I can find something. It looks like I got the audio issue figured out (incorrect wiring configuration) which is great so now I just need to work on the memory. Phew, it's always something!
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      01-08-2020, 09:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazbek1 View Post
Wow. Thanks for your in depth response. I really appreciate it. And yes, it sounds like what you explained is what's going on with my head unit: when my car is on and the HU is running, then I turn the car off and turn it back on within a few seconds or even minutes, the main screen pops right up (almost like it was just asleep and didn't fully turn off) and the settings remain unchanged. But if I restart the HU maunally and let it boot back up or an extended amount of time passes between shut down and restart, I see the displays initially show the correct units but then they change to metric after it boots up.

I'll look for the install manual and see if I can find something. It looks like I got the audio issue figured out (incorrect wiring configuration) which is great so now I just need to work on the memory. Phew, it's always something!
Take a hint from NASA and how they handle things. Work the Problem and Solve it. When that is done, Work the Next Problem. It is an understood that there is always someething that will break or some challenge to overcome. Take it one step at a time and make it home .
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      01-13-2020, 07:28 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by activereality View Post
Take a hint from NASA and how they handle things. Work the Problem and Solve it. When that is done, Work the Next Problem. It is an understood that there is always someething that will break or some challenge to overcome. Take it one step at a time and make it home .
Absolutely! I'm usually a patient man but this head unit wiring BS is testing my nerves! The head unit was turning on/off and providing sound as it should for a few hours and then it went back to how it originally was. I might try to do the fuse tap that you were talking about.

I think I'm getting confused with some of these wires. Which wire (color) do you normally run to the fuse? AVIN needs me to send the MOST adapter back by today (they gave me a month and of course waited till the last minute) but wanted to try more wiring options before sending it back. I think I'm going to grab one of those fuse taps and see if that does anything.
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      01-13-2020, 07:48 AM   #11
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Hey man,

Crap! Yeah, getting down to the wire now (hehe sorry). Hmm, is it restarting while driving? Or is it just the sound being intermittent? For that 12 VDC hotwire - it should be pretty clearly labeled in their documentation for the unit or on the unit. To be clear here: This is a wire from the harness attaching directly to the unit (or should be) not a wire from the MOST adapter.

Link to an example of what I am talking about with a `fuse tap`: https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-Circui...34676336&psc=1
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      01-13-2020, 07:59 AM   #12
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It doesn't restart by itself or anything. When I start the car, sometimes I get audio. Other times, I have to sit there and restart the head unit like 3 or 4 times and then I get audio. Super annoying. I'm sure I have something wired incorrectly so I'm about to head to the store real quick and pick up the fuse tap. I just wasn't sure which wire I'm actually running to that tap.
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      01-13-2020, 08:19 AM   #13
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Oh gotcha, Does Joying have a support phone number or contact you can call? Or did they send any documentation or electrical schematic with the unit?
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      01-14-2020, 07:35 AM   #14
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Yea, I'm communicating with them via email. They didn't send instructions because it was just plug and play (they included a harness). I just sent the MOST adapter back to AVIN so I'm hoping that device was just faulty. While I wait for them to send me a new one, I guess I'll still try and troubleshoot the memory issue with Joying (broken English is a bit of a hurdle). There I'm definitely wiring something incorrectly.
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      01-14-2020, 07:37 AM   #15
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Oh and I bought a fuse tap yesterday to try and tap into one of the fuses behind the glovebox. I'm hoping that will solve the memory issue but I don't even know which wire from the HU I should be running to the fuse.
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      01-16-2020, 09:55 AM   #16
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For constant 12v, why don't you just run a line from the battery? There are a lot of videos on youtube about doing this for aftermarket installs. In fact, the PAC harness (if you are installing aftermarket and want to retain steering wheel controls) comes with a wire to run from battery to head unit. There are some videos on youtube that show how to run this wire to the front of the car from the battery.

For me, I can't find an accessory wire, one that will give power when key is inserted, not just when car running, so that the aftermarket head unit acts like the stock radio (power on radio comes on when key inserted).
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      01-16-2020, 10:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by orangedawg View Post
For constant 12v, why don't you just run a line from the battery? There are a lot of videos on youtube about doing this for aftermarket installs. In fact, the PAC harness (if you are installing aftermarket and want to retain steering wheel controls) comes with a wire to run from battery to head unit. There are some videos on youtube that show how to run this wire to the front of the car from the battery.

For me, I can't find an accessory wire, one that will give power when key is inserted, not just when car running, so that the aftermarket head unit acts like the stock radio (power on radio comes on when key inserted).

This is a bit more of a comfort feature, and not need to tear the car apart- the 12 VDC constant is needed for the new HeadUnit to maintain a memory usually. Like settings, preferences, etc. It is easier (labor wise) to run this to the glove box, and tap into a circuit that already has this 12 vdc constant connection to the battery than to run the wire.

kazbek1,
Did they ever get back to you on what terminal/wire the 12 vdc constant needed to go to? If not, see if you can take a pic of the pigtails coming out of the unit, or any pics of wiring documentation you currently have. - isolating onto the HU harness's.

Good luck!!
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      01-16-2020, 11:32 AM   #18
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I disconnected the head unit so here are all of the wires/harnesses. The wire tap things is where I had the MOST adapter set up (I don't even know if that was correct). The canbus is the box at the top, the one in the center is the fuse, and the box to the right is where all of that connects to the car.

They verified that the 12v is the yellow wire. Any idea why I have so much of that wire?

So how do I go about sending a wire to the fuse box? Like do I tap into the yellow wire and run that new wire through the car and connect it to a fuse?
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      01-16-2020, 01:32 PM   #19
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Hmm ok, the really long yellow wire is most likely your 12 vdc constant wire, that is the one you'll want to connect in the fuse panel or run it to the battery. This should reduce wake up/boot times and also keep memory settings. I am not understanding why the yellow is going into the other connector though.

This sounds/looks like you need to try and get these pics to the company you ordered/getting support from and try to get on a phone call with them.


Those red clip things attaching to the wires are wiretaps- think they are sometimes called T-Taps as well.
These wire taps: did you install those or did they come installed?
If you did, what documentation was asking to tap in and what is to be connected to them?
If they installed them, is there any documentation about what needs to connect there?


Very interesting dude. You are gonna make it!
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      01-16-2020, 02:53 PM   #20
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Yea I'm not sure why the yellow wire is going to other connector either. I'll send them these pictures and see if they're able to suggest something I guess. They really aren't much help. They ask a random question, then take 3 days to reply back and it's not an answer to anything lol. It looks like the yellow wire is running to the head unit connector (left side of the picture), the can bus (top of the picture), the fuse (in the middle) and the connector for the car (right of the picture). Then theres the red wire (ACC) running from the can bus to the head unit connector.

The wire taps were for the MOST adapter that was giving me the audio issues. I posted linked the instructions about a week ago:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5c...1oS3Vfd2M/view

I sent the adapter back and they'll be sending me a new one so I just left the taps attached.
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      01-16-2020, 05:57 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazbek1 View Post
Yea I'm not sure why the yellow wire is going to other connector either. I'll send them these pictures and see if they're able to suggest something I guess. They really aren't much help. They ask a random question, then take 3 days to reply back and it's not an answer to anything lol. It looks like the yellow wire is running to the head unit connector (left side of the picture), the can bus (top of the picture), the fuse (in the middle) and the connector for the car (right of the picture). Then theres the red wire (ACC) running from the can bus to the head unit connector.

The wire taps were for the MOST adapter that was giving me the audio issues. I posted linked the instructions about a week ago:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5c...1oS3Vfd2M/view

I sent the adapter back and they'll be sending me a new one so I just left the taps attached.
Oh, got ya. I did not 'connect' that (hehe sorry). Really odd they have it set up that way. The Dynavin unit came with mostly plug and play items. Only thing i needed to connect was the long yellow to the battery - which I shortened and ran to the glove box -fuse panel.
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      01-18-2020, 11:01 AM   #22
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Damn, that sounds easy enough. At this point, I might just bring it to a shop and have them figure it out. I love working on my own car (mechanically, I can figure most things out) but when it comes to electronics, I'm completely lost. I'm hoping that if I already have the head unit out and I sound like I have some sort of understanding with cars, they won't overcharge me to just switch some wires around.
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