2011 328i SULEV fuel pump replacement problem

pixi018 · 10-16-2018, 06:05 PM

Good evening guys,

I have a weird problem with my 2011 328i. A month ago car started shutting off few times per day, usually at lower RPM's (pulling up from the parking or slowly accelerating after stop sign or traffic light). It shuts off, I start the car after that with no problem and continue driving with no issues for few hours, sometimes for few days and then again. I have no SES light nor codes. Been connecting OBD computer few times already with no codes.

I went to the dealer two weeks ago to preform the diagnostics, and they told me they pulled up the codes (I'm not sure how) and that Fuel pump and Fuel Pump Control module needs to be replaced and programmed. Not sure if the dying fuel pump has that kind of symptoms, also not sure what kind of symptoms failing control module has but anyway...

Then today weirdest thing happened. My car died on the middle of the street and I couldn't start the car again. It was cranking forever but couldn't start. So I figured the fuel pump finally died and I need to replace it. I pushed the car to the parking lot, wanted to call towing, and then 10 minutes after I decided to try starting the car again. It started with no problem, and I drove home (like 20 miles) with no problem.

Does anybody have the slightest idea whats going on here?

Thanks in advance

pixi018 · 10-16-2018, 06:08 PM

I forgot to say the car has 109.000 miles if that's important.

jor3l · 10-16-2018, 06:11 PM

have you changed the engine air intake filter? had a similar issue before and after changing and checking the intake connection never had the problem again

gbalthrop · 10-16-2018, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pixi018

...2011 328i. A month ago car started shutting off few times per day, usually at lower RPM's (pulling up from the parking or slowly accelerating after stop sign or traffic light). It shuts off, I start the car after that with no problem and continue driving with no issues for few hours, sometimes for few days and then again. I have no SES light nor codes. Been connecting OBD computer few times already with no codes. I went to the dealer two weeks ago to preform the diagnostics, and they told me they pulled up the codes (I'm not sure how) and that Fuel pump and Fuel Pump Control module needs to be replaced and programmed...

If you have a generic P-code reader, that is OK for reading DME codes, but NOT EKP (Fuel Pump Module) codes, as that P-code reader CANNOT connect to the EKP or most/all other modules except DME.

Call Dealer and get exact diagnostics they recorded in their system, including ALL codes read, what module those codes were in, Definition of each code, and any details or Freeze Frame Data related to each code, such as Number of occurrences, mileage (km) of occurrence, etc. You PAID for those diagnostics, GET the DATA.

The recurring stall and then Re-Starts OK sounds like aging fuel pump. NOT sure about the EKP (Pump Control Module) needing replacement though. Codes, Definitions & Freeze Frame Data is needed to properly diagnose -- that's why INPA/ISTA was created.

Get the Data and post back -- someone can help. Also, let us know if you have a laptop, are interested in installing INPA and doing your own diagnostics. It takes some time installing & learning, but worth it if you do your own work, and can change a fuel pump. K+DCAN cable is $15 - $45, and software download via BimmerGeeks site is free.

George

pixi018 · 10-17-2018, 01:06 AM

Thanks for the replies.

I did not change air filter. I could try, its cheap.

I will definitely call the dealer and ask for my codes and post it here. Replacing fuel pump shouldn't be a problem. I did it on e46, I don't think its much more complicated on e90. I didn't know failing fuel pump can have these symptoms. I thought either its working or not.

Fritzer · 10-17-2018, 12:45 PM

Well it sounds like something isn't getting to the engine. If you have never changed your engine air filter check it and get that done ASAP. A Mann filter is $25 on Amazon and it takes about 30 mins, so might as well get it out of the way regardless. While you're in there inspect the intake box and make sure everything is in order, nothing blocking airflow. Sometimes large objects can get caught up in there like leaves and clumps of dirt.

Likely it's the fuel pump in my opinion. Like you said it's not a very complicated procedure. But definitely get all the data from the dealership like gbalthrop advised.

ahlbe1cl · 10-17-2018, 01:23 PM

Generally speaking, it sounds like a fuel pump issues.

ctuna · 10-17-2018, 01:46 PM

Do you have an N52 or N51 engine?
The N51's have a problem with the Internal
Fuel lines in the tank becoming disconnected
or breaking.
If you have an N51 BMW will want to replace the
whole tank . There is a possibility it will be under
the 15 year sulev warranty if this is the case.
(Fuel pump is in the Tank)

BMW diagnostic setup for getting all the codes
is needed but you need to do a fuel pressure test
to see whats going on with fuel pressure.

To find out what motor you have do a free BMWvin check
onine with one of the Free BMW vincheckers.

CameroN7887 · 10-17-2018, 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctuna

Do you have an N52 or N51 engine?
The N51's have a problem with the Internal
Fuel lines in the tank becoming disconnected
or breaking.
If you have an N51 BMW will want to replace the
whole tank . There is a possibility it will be under
the 15 year sulev warranty if this is the case.
(Fuel pump is in the Tank)

BMW diagnostic setup for getting all the codes
is needed but you need to do a fuel pressure test
to see whats going on with fuel pressure.

To find out what motor you have do a free BMWvin check
onine with one of the Free BMW vincheckers.

An easier way of checking is popping the hood and checking the black tag on the underside of the hood towards the top that will say if your car is a SULEV vehicle, in turn giving you the N51 engine.

pixi018 · 10-17-2018, 09:07 PM

It is N51 SULEV.
I was reading forums about the SULEV warrant today.
Apparently they wont accept the warranty in all states. My car has been bought in MD but registered in VA. Will have to talk with the dealer about that.
When I did the diagnostics, service adviser didn't mention anything about that.

d1saster · 10-17-2018, 11:30 PM

I'm in a similar situation as you OP. 2011 328i with N51 engine registered in Nevada. Warranty doesn't cover it due to current registration out of sulev state. This became requirement in 2011. Earlier model doesn't matter where are registered.

I did my own diagnostic with ISTA-D and the problem is wire from left fuel level sensor shorted to ground. This weekend I'm gonna inspect the connections to see any damage. Hopefully it's the harness between the fuel pump and the tank cover and i can repair the insulation. If the damage is not visible and is deeper in the tank I'm planning on disconnecting the left sensor (not serviceable) and install a proper resistor to imitate always empty left half tank. In this case the fuel gauge should show half full until the left tank is empty but I'm worried if the suction jet pump will be active to transfer fuel from left to right half tank.

I can also try to replace the fuel pump which is supposed to have upgraded harness but I want to try the cheapest ways first.

ctuna · 10-19-2018, 12:01 PM

Its not the fuel pump but the lines that dissconnect or break in the
tank next to the fuel pump.

There was a long thread on what someone did to fix this.
on Bimmerfest

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...37079-5632.pdf

The guy in the thread on bimmerfest did replace the hose I believe.

might have been this one

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...&highlight=n51

These might be useful thank George

https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743

pixi018 · 10-23-2018, 12:14 PM

So I just replaced fuel pump. Put everything back. Car is cranking but wont start. Also I noticed car shows empty tank although its like 1/4 full.
Any ideas?

d1saster · 10-24-2018, 12:11 AM

You need to read BMW specific diagnostic codes. Also there's procedures with ISTA-D for fuel system diagnosis - fuel pressure, fuel pump function, repumping fuel function from left to right half tank, left and right level sensors readings.

Did you visually inspect the fuel hose connection on the pressure regulator inside of the tank? If that is broken or dislodged you will need some skills to repair it.

If the car is cranking but not starting looks like there is no fuel delivery. Proper diagnostic will tell if the pump is non operable. Also make sure all hoses and connectors are plugged in on the pump and top and bottom of the service cover.

How did you measure 1/4 tank full? If gauge is showing slight below 0 there is no signal to it at all. Proper diagnostic will show if gauge or level sensor is faulty. It might be wire shorting or not properly seated electrical connection.

Was your original pump with or without protective sleeve for the wiring harness? Is there sleeve on the new pump? Not of an importance but just for information.

I fixed my left fuel sensor error by removing and reinstalling the existing fuel pump. When removing the pump I noticed that it didn't require turning it anticlockwise to unlock it. It was already unlocked and just pulled out. Seems like previous installer didn't do a good job (fuel tank replaced at 33k miles for unknown fr me reason). When installing back I made sure it locked. First when I inspected the wire harness still in the tank I think I saw chafed wires but after I removed the pump I couldn't find it. I hope it was just sign of rubbing insulation without damage. Since I didn't repair anything besides installing the pump properly I assume it was a bad electrical connection. It will probably come back when the extreme heat kicks in but the job is really easy knowing how to disconnect the hose connectors without tools (newtis.info to the T).

pixi018 · 10-24-2018, 08:35 AM

My car had issues like I described above. So the car was starting with and old fuel pump but shutting off randomly. I was able to start the car and drive before I put the new fuel pump in. Thats how I know there was a litlle bit more than 1/4 of a gas inside.
I replaced fuel pump yesterday. Put everything back. Connected battery back and notice my fuel gauge shows empty, and I couldn’t start (it was working fine before)
I opened the tank again reinspected all the connectors and lines again, everything was good. Pit everything back again, same issue.
So I thought I bought a faulty part, i took the new pump, but back the old one
But again the same.
Now, my fuel gauge showing empty is definitely connected with no start issue. The question is, what could I do wrong? I didn’t have any issues when replacing it, it was pretty much straight forward, all connectors and lines were properly deatached and them attached...

BimmerNugget · 10-24-2018, 09:29 AM

If you indeed have an SULEV (N51 engine), the fuel pump and fuel tank are covered under the SULEV warranty up to 15 years or 150k miles.

pixi018 · 10-24-2018, 01:16 PM

Wont cover it since the car is registered in VA

tlow98 · 10-24-2018, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pixi018

Wont cover it since the car is registered in VA

What are the parts costs?

pixi018 · 10-24-2018, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tlow98

What are the parts costs?

I just bought fuel pump for 200$.

I cant figure out what I did wrong when replacing it. I definitely did something wrong since my fuel gauge shows empty tank and the car wont start.

d1saster · 10-24-2018, 08:38 PM

You keep omitting the faults from diagnostics. You mentioned dealer suggested replacing fuel pump module so that might be it. Request the fault codes from the dealer so we can help. You can also check if the old pump is operational if you apply 9 volt current to it.

pixi018 · 10-25-2018, 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by d1saster

You keep omitting the faults from diagnostics. You mentioned dealer suggested replacing fuel pump module so that might be it. Request the fault codes from the dealer so we can help. You can also check if the old pump is operational if you apply 9 volt current to it.

Sorry, forgot to mention, the dealer didn't give me codes. I called few weeks after they did the diagnostic but they said they don't keep them in the system.

Anyway, the car was starting (but shutting off randomly while driving), also my fuel gauge was showing between 1/4 and 1/2 fuel level. As soon as I open the tank and replaced the part, the fuel gauge shows empty tank, and the car cant start.

All of that make me think I did something while I was replacing the fuel pump, but not sure what. Everything is connected properly.

Im not sure if fuel level sensor is stuck somewhere between the fuel hoses and thats why it shows empty tank, but would that cause car not starting? Or maybe Im just talking nonsense..

d1saster · 10-26-2018, 02:53 PM

Now that the car is not starting is the SES light on? If so read the generic codes with your reader and post it here.

10-16-2018, 06:05 PM	#1
pixi018 New Member 4 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 328i Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Reston, VA iTrader: (0)	2011 328i SULEV fuel pump replacement problem Good evening guys, I have a weird problem with my 2011 328i. A month ago car started shutting off few times per day, usually at lower RPM's (pulling up from the parking or slowly accelerating after stop sign or traffic light). It shuts off, I start the car after that with no problem and continue driving with no issues for few hours, sometimes for few days and then again. I have no SES light nor codes. Been connecting OBD computer few times already with no codes. I went to the dealer two weeks ago to preform the diagnostics, and they told me they pulled up the codes (I'm not sure how) and that Fuel pump and Fuel Pump Control module needs to be replaced and programmed. Not sure if the dying fuel pump has that kind of symptoms, also not sure what kind of symptoms failing control module has but anyway... Then today weirdest thing happened. My car died on the middle of the street and I couldn't start the car again. It was cranking forever but couldn't start. So I figured the fuel pump finally died and I need to replace it. I pushed the car to the parking lot, wanted to call towing, and then 10 minutes after I decided to try starting the car again. It started with no problem, and I drove home (like 20 miles) with no problem. Does anybody have the slightest idea whats going on here? Thanks in advance Last edited by pixi018; 10-23-2018 at 05:51 PM..
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10-16-2018, 06:08 PM	#2
pixi018 New Member 4 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 328i Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Reston, VA iTrader: (0)	I forgot to say the car has 109.000 miles if that's important.
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10-16-2018, 06:11 PM	#3
jor3l New Member 0 Rep 7 Posts Drives: E90 320i Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Bogota, Colombia iTrader: (0)	have you changed the engine air intake filter? had a similar issue before and after changing and checking the intake connection never had the problem again
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10-17-2018, 01:06 AM	#5
pixi018 New Member 4 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 328i Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Reston, VA iTrader: (0)	Thanks for the replies. I did not change air filter. I could try, its cheap. I will definitely call the dealer and ask for my codes and post it here. Replacing fuel pump shouldn't be a problem. I did it on e46, I don't think its much more complicated on e90. I didn't know failing fuel pump can have these symptoms. I thought either its working or not.
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10-17-2018, 12:45 PM	#6
Fritzer No one sleep in Tokyo 943 Rep 1,507 Posts Drives: 2011 E90 328i//1995 E34 530i Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: San Diego, California -> Austin, Texas iTrader: (3)	Well it sounds like something isn't getting to the engine. If you have never changed your engine air filter check it and get that done ASAP. A Mann filter is $25 on Amazon and it takes about 30 mins, so might as well get it out of the way regardless. While you're in there inspect the intake box and make sure everything is in order, nothing blocking airflow. Sometimes large objects can get caught up in there like leaves and clumps of dirt. Likely it's the fuel pump in my opinion. Like you said it's not a very complicated procedure. But definitely get all the data from the dealership like gbalthrop advised. __________________ 2011 E90 328i, 1995 E34 530i, 1992 E32 740i, 1991 E34 525i
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10-17-2018, 01:23 PM	#7
ahlbe1cl Private First Class 30 Rep 106 Posts Drives: 2011 328i xDrive Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Michigan iTrader: (0)	Generally speaking, it sounds like a fuel pump issues.
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10-17-2018, 01:46 PM	#8
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,100 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Do you have an N52 or N51 engine? The N51's have a problem with the Internal Fuel lines in the tank becoming disconnected or breaking. If you have an N51 BMW will want to replace the whole tank . There is a possibility it will be under the 15 year sulev warranty if this is the case. (Fuel pump is in the Tank) BMW diagnostic setup for getting all the codes is needed but you need to do a fuel pressure test to see whats going on with fuel pressure. To find out what motor you have do a free BMWvin check onine with one of the Free BMW vincheckers.
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10-17-2018, 09:07 PM	#10
pixi018 New Member 4 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 328i Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Reston, VA iTrader: (0)	It is N51 SULEV. I was reading forums about the SULEV warrant today. Apparently they wont accept the warranty in all states. My car has been bought in MD but registered in VA. Will have to talk with the dealer about that. When I did the diagnostics, service adviser didn't mention anything about that.
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10-17-2018, 11:30 PM	#11
d1saster Captain 59 Rep 675 Posts Drives: F15 N55 & E93 N51 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Las Vegas iTrader: (0)	I'm in a similar situation as you OP. 2011 328i with N51 engine registered in Nevada. Warranty doesn't cover it due to current registration out of sulev state. This became requirement in 2011. Earlier model doesn't matter where are registered. I did my own diagnostic with ISTA-D and the problem is wire from left fuel level sensor shorted to ground. This weekend I'm gonna inspect the connections to see any damage. Hopefully it's the harness between the fuel pump and the tank cover and i can repair the insulation. If the damage is not visible and is deeper in the tank I'm planning on disconnecting the left sensor (not serviceable) and install a proper resistor to imitate always empty left half tank. In this case the fuel gauge should show half full until the left tank is empty but I'm worried if the suction jet pump will be active to transfer fuel from left to right half tank. I can also try to replace the fuel pump which is supposed to have upgraded harness but I want to try the cheapest ways first.
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10-19-2018, 12:01 PM	#12
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,100 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Its not the fuel pump but the lines that dissconnect or break in the tank next to the fuel pump. There was a long thread on what someone did to fix this. on Bimmerfest https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...37079-5632.pdf The guy in the thread on bimmerfest did replace the hose I believe. might have been this one https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sh...&highlight=n51 These might be useful thank George https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...9&d=1539905743 Last edited by ctuna; 10-19-2018 at 01:20 PM..
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10-23-2018, 12:14 PM	#13
pixi018 New Member 4 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 328i Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Reston, VA iTrader: (0)	So I just replaced fuel pump. Put everything back. Car is cranking but wont start. Also I noticed car shows empty tank although its like 1/4 full. Any ideas?
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10-24-2018, 12:11 AM	#14
d1saster Captain 59 Rep 675 Posts Drives: F15 N55 & E93 N51 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Las Vegas iTrader: (0)	You need to read BMW specific diagnostic codes. Also there's procedures with ISTA-D for fuel system diagnosis - fuel pressure, fuel pump function, repumping fuel function from left to right half tank, left and right level sensors readings. Did you visually inspect the fuel hose connection on the pressure regulator inside of the tank? If that is broken or dislodged you will need some skills to repair it. If the car is cranking but not starting looks like there is no fuel delivery. Proper diagnostic will tell if the pump is non operable. Also make sure all hoses and connectors are plugged in on the pump and top and bottom of the service cover. How did you measure 1/4 tank full? If gauge is showing slight below 0 there is no signal to it at all. Proper diagnostic will show if gauge or level sensor is faulty. It might be wire shorting or not properly seated electrical connection. Was your original pump with or without protective sleeve for the wiring harness? Is there sleeve on the new pump? Not of an importance but just for information. I fixed my left fuel sensor error by removing and reinstalling the existing fuel pump. When removing the pump I noticed that it didn't require turning it anticlockwise to unlock it. It was already unlocked and just pulled out. Seems like previous installer didn't do a good job (fuel tank replaced at 33k miles for unknown fr me reason). When installing back I made sure it locked. First when I inspected the wire harness still in the tank I think I saw chafed wires but after I removed the pump I couldn't find it. I hope it was just sign of rubbing insulation without damage. Since I didn't repair anything besides installing the pump properly I assume it was a bad electrical connection. It will probably come back when the extreme heat kicks in but the job is really easy knowing how to disconnect the hose connectors without tools (newtis.info to the T).
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10-24-2018, 08:35 AM	#15
pixi018 New Member 4 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 328i Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Reston, VA iTrader: (0)	My car had issues like I described above. So the car was starting with and old fuel pump but shutting off randomly. I was able to start the car and drive before I put the new fuel pump in. Thats how I know there was a litlle bit more than 1/4 of a gas inside. I replaced fuel pump yesterday. Put everything back. Connected battery back and notice my fuel gauge shows empty, and I couldn’t start (it was working fine before) I opened the tank again reinspected all the connectors and lines again, everything was good. Pit everything back again, same issue. So I thought I bought a faulty part, i took the new pump, but back the old one But again the same. Now, my fuel gauge showing empty is definitely connected with no start issue. The question is, what could I do wrong? I didn’t have any issues when replacing it, it was pretty much straight forward, all connectors and lines were properly deatached and them attached...
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10-24-2018, 09:29 AM	#16
BimmerNugget Crazy Frog 543 Rep 1,211 Posts Drives: L.L.Bean Bootmobile Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: 560 State Street iTrader: (0)	If you indeed have an SULEV (N51 engine), the fuel pump and fuel tank are covered under the SULEV warranty up to 15 years or 150k miles. __________________ www.youtube.com/watch?v=k85mRPqvMbE
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10-24-2018, 01:16 PM	#17
pixi018 New Member 4 Rep 9 Posts Drives: 2011 BMW 328i Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Reston, VA iTrader: (0)	Wont cover it since the car is registered in VA
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10-24-2018, 08:38 PM	#20
d1saster Captain 59 Rep 675 Posts Drives: F15 N55 & E93 N51 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Las Vegas iTrader: (0)	You keep omitting the faults from diagnostics. You mentioned dealer suggested replacing fuel pump module so that might be it. Request the fault codes from the dealer so we can help. You can also check if the old pump is operational if you apply 9 volt current to it.
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10-26-2018, 02:53 PM	#22
d1saster Captain 59 Rep 675 Posts Drives: F15 N55 & E93 N51 Join Date: Oct 2012 Location: Las Vegas iTrader: (0)	Now that the car is not starting is the SES light on? If so read the generic codes with your reader and post it here.
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