[Kriterzz]

replaced the starter a month or so ago after the same issue and car started up fine, recently in colder months i had the issue once more leaving work but after a few tries it fired up. had the issue again this morning with no luck starting the car. jump pack didn’t help, battery reads 11.7v

any ideas?

[marvinstockman]

Try and read the battery voltage when you press the start button. If something is jammed, the battery will read something below 8 volts. Also, 11.7 volts means the battery is not being charged. When running, voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts.

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by marvinstockman

Try and read the battery voltage when you press the start button. If something is jammed, the battery will read something below 8 volts. Also, 11.7 volts means the battery is not being charged. When running, voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts.

i can’t get it running it won’t start right now last time i checked everything was working well just recently it hasn’t wanted to start every now and then i’m not sure what the issue is

[marvinstockman]

Whack the starter with a hammer a couple of times and see if it will start.

Again, what is the battery voltage when you press the start button?

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by marvinstockman

Whack the starter with a hammer a couple of times and see if it will start.

Again, what is the battery voltage when you press the start button?

starter is good she decided to start last night when i got home so it’s really an intermittent thing can’t really find more symptoms until it decides to not start again. most annoying kind of problem is the kind that doesn’t always show itself.

[jadams161]

Need a new battery and to have it coded and registered correctly.

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by jadams161

Need a new battery and to have it coded and registered correctly.

update
i read up on some threads to do with a relay and a battery sensor
car didn’t start this time but it tried to crank and all the lights started flickering while it was trying to crank then stopped
afterwards all the lights went back to normal but it was back to no crank and the relay clicking over and over repeatedly and then stopped and then back to it clicking only once every time i pushed the start. any ideas?
read something to do with an FRM module and the CAS
maybe a bad ground?
battery reads 11.7 on multimeter with the car off pretty sure it’s good

[Kriterzz]

also put a jump pack on it after it stopped trying to crank and it tried to crank once then went back to the no crank situation

[jadams161]

Just because the battery reads 11v on a meter doesn't mean it is good. You are not testing it under load and it hasn't been charged. Chasing the issue without properly charging the battery or having it tested is just a waste of time.
I have an Interstate battery that was in my 2011 328. It is 3.5 years old and "tested" ok. But would not hold charge and struggled to turn engine over after sitting overnight. I replaced the battery and car is fixed.

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by jadams161

Just because the battery reads 11v on a meter doesn't mean it is good. You are not testing it under load and it hasn't been charged. Chasing the issue without properly charging the battery or having it tested is just a waste of time.
I have an Interstate battery that was in my 2011 328. It is 3.5 years old and "tested" ok. But would not hold charge and struggled to turn engine over after sitting overnight. I replaced the battery and car is fixed.

ill go get it properly tested at an auto shop tomorrow, if it tests good there would that be a definite answer for me to say the battery is good and move on to other problems or is there things that can’t be tested for?

[jadams161]

You would most likely have codes for the intelligent battery sensor or any other system failure. But there are 2 braided ground straps on the car. The main one runs front the left motor mount to the frame. If that is green or original then it needs to be changed.

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by jadams161

You would most likely have codes for the intelligent battery sensor or any other system failure. But there are 2 braided ground straps on the car. The main one runs front the left motor mount to the frame. If that is green or original then it needs to be changed.

sorry if this is a dumb question but what does the color of a cable have to do with the battery being charged?

[jadams161]

It's a braided metal strap that's exposed so when it gets old and corroded it turns green

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C...b_b_asin_title

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by jadams161

It's a braided metal strap that's exposed so when it gets old and corroded it turns green

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C...b_b_asin_title

thanks ill give it a look in the morning and see what’s up

[Bims328i]

If you have a decent scanner you can check battery CBS for estimated % availability. If it is low percentage than likely IBS will tell you it's about to be toast. You normally see a lot of failures during the winter season too.

[Kriterzz]

was just the battery, didn’t know it can cause intermittent faults like that and not turn even with a jump. to all the homies looking into bigger and more serious issues from what you read on here take my idiocy as a reminder to just double check the simple stuff first <3

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Kriterzz

was just the battery, didn’t know it can cause intermittent faults like that and not turn even with a jump. to all the homies looking into bigger and more serious issues from what you read on here take my idiocy as a reminder to just double check the simple stuff first <3

Yes, a good battery would read around 12.6V at rest. Below 12V = not good.

[GoRomeo]

Lets remember that a battery can read 12v all day long that doesnt mean it can retain the charge for a period of time. Thats why its good to do a load test.

[Kriterzz]

Originally Posted by GoRomeo

Lets remember that a battery can read 12v all day long that doesnt mean it can retain the charge for a period of time. Thats why its good to do a load test.

exactly what i’ve learned today. was looking decent on the multimeter and i thought that was ok turns out it was absolutely fried even though it was perfect 2 months ago, a lesson for me and hopefully for someone else as well to help them avoid the same headache i had

[Kriterzz]

boys were back at it again she was happy with a new battery for the first two starts and then back to the same no crank no start. push started it to get home. any ideas once again?

[Bmw1939]

Originally Posted by Kriterzz

boys were back at it again she was happy with a new battery for the first two starts and then back to the same no crank no start. push started it to get home. any ideas once again?

Might be at the point to pay a reputable bmw specialist.

[Greyfox]

Do you have any non-BMW accessories?