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E93 - Jump Starting - What Could prevent the procedure.
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11-30-2020, 08:41 PM | #1 |
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E93 - Jump Starting - What Could prevent the procedure.
Hi Gents.
I'm at the point to attempt jump starting the car up and eventually raise the top up to put the new battery to it's place. Symptoms now: - No starter motor sound. - Roof up procedure dont respond to the key fob - trunk dont open with the front button/trunk button/remote I have noticed some attempts that the key fob sometimes live back so I can hear the click when pressing lock/unlock button. That's now gone. Anyway to check the remote's battery without taking it out to measure? How long we have to leave the fob in place to get a full charge. Can it only be charged in driving mode? Condition of the car now: - All wirings are done except one twisted pairs from the back of the car which I believe to be redundant. - No battery in the trunk. - Fiber optics are disconnected to the back of the car. - LH rear side panel is not installed. - Both doors are not installed. - Both seats are not installed. - Center consoles are not installed. Error codes throwing so far: CC-ID 24 – DBC Dynamic Brake Control Brake Assist Failed CC-ID 50 – Tyre Monitoring Failure CC-ID 50 – Runflat Indicator Failed CC-ID 74 – Brake Fluid Low CC-ID 97 – Multiple Restraint System Fault CC-ID 166 – Engine Coolant Level Low CC-ID 275 – Low Fuel CC-ID 286 – Fuel Low / Range CC-ID 354 – Start Assist Inactive 447 - salmon switch something 678 - wheel speed sensor It strange these last two are not listed on the most ccid table. I toped up engine oil/fuel/brake fluid/coolant basically everything I can top up but the codes are still there. Does that mean I have to reset it to get rid of it? I have noticed that when put the fob in place all the way, depress the brake(auto trans) and press the start button, the light on the dash went out for a split second. The jump wire is small and warm. To me it looks like if I get a bigger wires and clamps I might have a luck. Any thoughts are more than welcome as I have always unforeseen something that turns out to be important later Thanks in advance guys. Really appreciate your help so far. AK
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Project E36
Project E93 Last edited by Hamster93; 11-30-2020 at 08:53 PM.. |
11-30-2020, 09:23 PM | #2 |
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I'm not sure if I have forgotten how to english but your post is unbelievably difficult to follow any logic on.
So have you actually attempted to jump start the vehicle? Or are you asking whether we can guide you thru the process to jump start it? Also need to know some critical information like what the current system voltage is in the vehicle without it being jump started. |
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11-30-2020, 10:25 PM | #3 |
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My apologies mate. Sometimes I am in rush typing. I normally recheck reread and correct later on. English is also my secondary language but I'm learning.
I jump start the car but the motor start wasn't turning. Now I suspect I have too small jumping wires and loose clamps. No voltage as there's no battery in the trunk. When externally hooked up it shows healthy 12.7v on the meter. In driving mode with starter motor not on its job, it went down to 12.5v so I also clamp it up with a small 1A bike charger. |
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12-01-2020, 02:30 AM | #5 |
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Cheers mate. The thing is that the folded top stored at the back is obstructing so cant get the battery in place unless we pop the top up, which means no other choice than jump starting? Or I am missing something here please advise.
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12-01-2020, 10:20 AM | #7 |
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Great puzzle!
I don't have an E93, so I'm not going to watch the entire video, but I did watch enough to see that this dude seems to have the info you need... Google is your friend. (I'm guessing that by attaching the car with jumper cables to another battery, you can get to the point where turning on the ignition on your car accomplishes the "relieving the pump pressure" part that he mentions) Now, I want to know how you got the battery OUT if the roof was open and blocking access to the battery.... Oh, and btw, in the future, you really shouldn't try to jump START (i.e., turn on the engine) a car that has no battery installed. I've heard that that's really bad for the electronics in a modern car. Maybe others with more knowledge can chime in on that. |
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12-01-2020, 10:57 AM | #8 |
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Cheers mate. I have seen it. Looks like lots of work but if jump start don't work I might have no choice.
From what have been discussed from my previous post many months ago. We believe the shipping take the battery out then connect the external battery in the front then lower the top hence the trunk trim over the hydraulic motor seems to be untampered. Cheers mate. Yes there's a way to manually raise the top up but involve loads of work. Last edited by Hamster93; 12-01-2020 at 11:04 AM.. |
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12-01-2020, 12:44 PM | #9 |
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Opening Trunk when Battery Disconnected/Removed
Time to slow down & think about a simple electrical circuit.
1) If Battery Removed/Disconnected, then NONE of the circuits in the vehicle are going to work, and if the B+ Terminal is contacting ground, when you apply jumper cables to Jumpstart Terminals under Hood you are creating a short circuit with SPARKS or worse. 2) What you need to do is get the trunk open & install a properly-charged battery. 3) If your Trunk Lid has NO mechanical key opening, there IS a WAY to apply voltage to the wire that goes to your trunk latch, same as the INSIDE Trunk Release Switch does when that is pressed. That switch of course will NOT work with battery disconnected. If you will provide your Last-7 Characters of your VIN, I will post wiring diagram & diagrams of specific location of Connector & Pin to which you need to apply current to open the trunk. George |
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12-01-2020, 01:26 PM | #10 |
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2008 E93 Boot Lid Drive Circuit & Component Diagrams
If my earlier info in prior thread was correct you have 2008 E93 335i?
If that is NOT correct please advise. Attached are following from ISTA related to 2008 E93: 1) Central Locking Drives wiring diagram showing Trunk Lid M17a motor; NOTE Gray/Green wire from X14270/12 to Trunk Lid Motor which is Chassis-grounded via Brown Wire; 2) Connector X14270 Installation Location, on Lower firewall side of Junction Box; 3) Connector View of X14270 showing Pin locations (Pin #12 needs 12V+) Apply 12V+ to Pin#12, Gray/Green wire, and Ground (-) Terminal of power source to Vehicle Chassis to complete the circuit; Done this way, it does NOT matter if Disconnected Positive Battery terminal is touching Chassis; you are ONLY powering M17a. You might try using a small 9V battery first, to see if THAT has enough "juice" to operate M17a. Please let us know how it goes. George |
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12-01-2020, 05:12 PM | #11 |
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100% you just need to put in the work to manually raise the top to install a battery in the trunk.
how did you get the battery out and then not be able to reinstall one? |
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12-01-2020, 05:18 PM | #12 | |
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So many mysteries here. But just to clear up one big hunk of the situation...I think it's fair to say that, NO, you will not be able to "jump start" the car without there being a battery (even a mostly dead one) in the car. So just move on from that and do the "loads of work" to get the top out of the way and install the new battery. That will probably move you ahead several spaces in this game. |
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12-01-2020, 08:22 PM | #13 | |
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Cheers mate. Only Doors, Front seats and mid console have been removed for transportaton/customs purpose.
At the end of the day I might have to manually raise it but that doesn't stop my curiousity how did they take the battery out in the first place as all involve trims are still intact. I love to experiment things with some safety margin and with some logically possible outcome. Quote:
Point number one has been taken care off. Fortunately my EUR 08 E93 335i auto still equiped with a physical key. Once open, theres a visible slot that I can squeeze a towel underneath the red distribution box.Cheers mate. That's where our logic tells us if they can get it out with untampered roof mechanism, we can get the battery in the same way, can't we? Last edited by Hamster93; 12-01-2020 at 09:03 PM.. |
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12-02-2020, 05:46 AM | #14 |
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Well, good luck, and keep us informed as to what happens.
Also, I'm curious, what country's "customs" requires that the front seats and console be removed for "transportation"? And who's the "they" that you suppose figured out how to take the battery out and then move the top into stowed (open) position? |
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12-02-2020, 08:36 PM | #16 | |
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Cheers mate. It's like a race car in some countries like in the UK, for example. We can use it but not going to registered to the road as it will be a bit more expensive. They import cars as usual no banning or anything. We just specify a custom declaration what we going to use for.
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12-02-2020, 09:08 PM | #17 |
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Guys. I have a good news to report. After a beefy jump starting wires and clamps borrowed from nearby mechanic, I can put the roof up, get the battery in, start the car up. No hassle
The new set, how ever, is not good enough for jump starting. It's better than the previous one I can hear the starter motor clicking sound. The negative terminal on the car is hard to make a proper contact and the clamps itself aren't that good. I would say if we can make a proper contact, like c clamp it to the terminal, we would be able to jump start it right away. So after the jump start fail and the top has no respond to the fob, I hook up a open top switch and luckily the contact is good enough. I'm able to raise the top up, put the battery in and start the car normally. Two things I have to mention after the top is up. The mysterious chopped wires are from the amplifier. There is another chopped pairs in the trunk which I will also have to connect. And prior to raise the top, I didn't check the LHS of the trunk. The wires were dug out of the wire way as they had to take the optics out. It could potentially obstruct the roof up procedure and cause damage. Thank you guys a lot for helping me out. All the time and effort are very much appreciated. AK PS stay tuned. |
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