[yonversace]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

10,000 mile OCI. BMW oil and OE/OEM filter. Been working well for me so far.

how often do you change ur transmission fluid? and have you ever replaced your transmission?

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by yonversace

how often do you change ur transmission fluid? and have you ever replaced your transmission?

I posted threads about my E90 at 200,000, 300,000, and 400,000 miles. They will answer any questions you may have. But short answer is the average OCI on the manual transmission is just under 100,000 miles. The transmission is original.

[e91Owner]

I think we need to add to this thread by discussing what type of oil to use. 🤯

[krhodes1]

It says right in the owner's manual of my 328i that BMW recommends NOT rotating the tires, and I never have - since I would have had to pay for it, and I am a cheap SOB. And they wear perfectly evenly on my RWD non-sport package car. Of course, I am not into doing smokey burnouts.

I follow the CBS for oil changes, which works out to once a year for both my cars, because I will never hit 10K in a year on either of them. Living in a humid climate I change the brake fluid every few years, and coolant every 4-5. Did a break-in change of the manual trans and diff when it got off the boat after Euro Delivery for the 328i, and again a 50K. For the 128i I bought used, I just went through and changed everything when I got it home with ~50K on it as well to baseline it.

I intended to change the plugs on the 328i this past summer, but didn't get around to it. No concerns about wear at 51K, but some concern about how nicely they come out of the head after 11 years. And maybe I will finally get around to installing the 3si I have had on a shelf for half a decade.

[Efthreeoh]

Originally Posted by krhodes1

It says right in the owner's manual of my 328i that BMW recommends NOT rotating the tires, and I never have - since I would have had to pay for it, and I am a cheap SOB. And they wear perfectly evenly on my RWD non-sport package car. Of course, I am not into doing smokey burnouts.

I follow the CBS for oil changes, which works out to once a year for both my cars, because I will never hit 10K in a year on either of them. Living in a humid climate I change the brake fluid every few years, and coolant every 4-5. Did a break-in change of the manual trans and diff when it got off the boat after Euro Delivery for the 328i, and again a 50K. For the 128i I bought used, I just went through and changed everything when I got it home with ~50K on it as well to baseline it.

I intended to change the plugs on the 328i this past summer, but didn't get around to it. No concerns about wear at 51K, but some concern about how nicely they come out of the head after 11 years. And maybe I will finally get around to installing the 3si I have had on a shelf for half a decade.

In the old days, BMW used to explain why it was recommended to not rotate tires. Their reasoning is (a) it may change the handling characteristics of the vehicle, and (b) the price of paying for rotation does not offset the prospective gain in tread life. I've always rotated tires on my BMWs simply because I have the equipment, tools, and facility to rotate tires. I estimate I gain maybe 5,000 miles of additional tread life, but really I do it mostly because its fun to hear the sound of the air impact gun (everyone loves that sound). Now what I have found on my BMWs with the sport package (3 of them have it) is the staggered tire set up causes the rear tires to wear at a faster rate than the fronts; it about a 2-to-1 ratio (i.e. 2 sets of rears for each set of fronts). For several hundred thousand miles on the E90, I did run a square setup where I could cross rotate tires and did not experience the faster wear of the rear tires. Funny though is the actual total miles per set remained around 35,000 to 40,000 miles.

Don't worry about pulling the plugs out at 11 years. The plugs are buried in the head below the engine cover and sealed by the coil. It will look brand new in down in the plug cavity and there will be no corrosive reaction in the plug threads. I have experienced concerning plug removal after 10+ years. When I went to change the plugs on my 1999 F150 after 12 years or so, I found the plugs (on the V6 engine) rusted to the point the flats of the plug were gone! I was able to get the plugs out because there was enough of the plug hex head to get torque on the plug to rotate it out. I did squirt some Kroil on the plugs before removing them. But the sparkplugs on the Ford Vulcan V6 are exposed to the elements.

[krhodes1]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

In the old days, BMW used to explain why it was recommended to not rotate tires. Their reasoning is (a) it may change the handling characteristics of the vehicle, and (b) the price of paying for rotation does not offset the prospective gain in tread life. I've always rotated tires on my BMWs simply because I have the equipment, tools, and faciliy

That's what it says in the manual as far as handling characteristics. But given three sets of tires on my car have worn perfectly evenly, what's the point? This isn't a front-driver with 65% of the weight on one set of tires like my Slolvo.

Of course, BMW's recommendation didn't keep the dealer from asking me if I wanted a tire rotation at every service under warranty (at my own cost...). And an alignment too - even though the car has perfectly evenly worn tires and tracks like a TGV. Sigh. As Nancy Reagan once said, "Just say no".

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

10,000 mile OCI. BMW oil and OE/OEM filter. Been working well for me so far.

Since you've AVERAGED 25,000 miles (once around earth ;-) per year, MORE in early years of ownership, there were probably years where you did at least THREE Oil Changes per year on that OCI. MANY of us, at least since COVID 19, may only have put 2k or 3k miles/year on our vehicles in the last year or two. Please see Question BELOW.

Originally Posted by e91Owner

I think we need to add to this thread by discussing what type of oil to use. ��

And "Shelf Life in Pan". See BELOW.

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

In the old days, BMW used to explain why it was recommended to not rotate tires. Their reasoning is (a) it may change the handling characteristics of the vehicle... I've always rotated tires on my BMWs simply because I have the equipment, tools...

Different circumference between NEW tread & >50% worn tread is enough to cause (according to most tire shops) issues with AWD/ x-Drive components. When I get new tires in next few months, I will "Rotate" tires every 5,000 to 10,000 miles, using the 5th wheel/ tire I bought several years ago as a "Backup", so I ALWAYS have an "Equally-worn" tire to replace any tire that suffers sidewall or NON-repairable damage.

Yes, I have Conti RSC "Runflats", carry a tire pump and plug kit, and short of a blowout or sidewall damage, that should suffice, to at LEAST get me home. BTW, has ANYONE ever seen a blowout or sidewall damage to a Conti RSC?

ANYONE know any reason for maintaining same Rotation Direction of tire tread? That would prevent swapping wheels between Left/ Right sides of vehicle. If tire manufacturer does NOT specify that tread is "Directional", and there is nothing marked ON the tire sidewall to that effect, any reason NOT to swap side-to-side?

I have absolutely NO complaints related to the Conti RSC "Runflats", and intend to replace with SAME. And YES, I've used "High Performance" tires such as Pirelli's on Jags that only got about 15,000 miles before uniform tread wear forced replacement. So I KNOW what good traction is, and the Conti Runflats on the 328xi are excellent for hard cornering on back roads, hard braking, and stop-light get-aways.

Now that we've pushed THOSE buttons for OF (Opinionated-Folks ;-):

ANYONE ever had an oil analysis done on Full-Synthetic, such as Castrol Edge, where the oil has been in the sump for 2 years, 3 years, or even MORE, but less than 10,000 miles since last oil change?
Anyone had the OZS (Oil Condition Sensor) ever set Warning Light BEFORE the 15,000 mile OCI interval was reached?

My SWAG is that the "OLD" mantra for OCI for Conventional ("Dino") oil: one year (or 3,000 miles), is NOT applicable to Full-Synthetic. OBVIOUSLY the mileage is a lot more. WHY would the "time in sump" NOT be a lot more as well? However, I would love to see any scientific measurement of such things as acidity or corrosive properties, oil degradation or other "Oil Wear" factors, and the relationship to "Heat Cycles", Time in Oil Pan, or factors OTHER than mileage. BTW, I've NEVER seen a "Use By" or "Expiration Date" on an oil container -- have YOU?

ANYONE knowing of any such "Studies" or reliable testing that is published, Please provide a link.
George

[RayLivingston]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

ANYONE know any reason for maintaining same Rotation Direction of tire tread? That would prevent swapping wheels between Left/ Right sides of vehicle. If tire manufacturer does NOT specify that tread is "Directional", and there is nothing marked ON the tire sidewall to that effect, any reason NOT to swap side-to-side?

That is a left-over from old bias-ply tires. Modern non-directional radials don't care. In fact, here is a Bridgestone document that RECOMMENDS swapping sides:

https://www.bridgestonetire.com/lear...tire-rotation/

I'm sure most other tire manufacturers have similar recommendations.

[charlie_m]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

However, I would love to see any scientific measurement of such things as acidity or corrosive properties, oil degradation or other "Oil Wear" factors, and the relationship to "Heat Cycles", Time in Oil Pan, or factors OTHER than mileage. BTW, I've NEVER seen a "Use By" or "Expiration Date" on an oil container -- have YOU?

ANYONE knowing of any such "Studies" or reliable testing that is published, Please provide a link.
George

You won't find any oil life studies based on 'time in the pan' or 'heat cycles', but I suspect you knew that already. Operating time, and time under various temperature & load operating conditions *are* taken into account by various oil life algorithms. (Think ambulances or service trucks with high percentage of time spent idling).

https://etda.libraries.psu.edu/files...ubmissions/392
This paper has some interesting background on oil testing, sensors in use (as of 2009) and development of oil 'life algorithms'. This guy probably went to work for BMW after graduation

https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/ful...20294018770916
This is a little more recent paper, with supporting data for use of TAN as a parameter in estimating oil life (either in your CBS algorithm or periodic testing of your own oil). Relationship between TAN and TBN has been used for quite a while as a measure of oil useful life.

But yeah, this could be a long bikeshedding discussion; everyone has their own opinions, and I'm happy to leave it at that