[335dsleeper]

Did you ever get this sorted out?

Originally Posted by Got-Torque

New rail pressure sensor didn’t change anything, still going into limp mode with rail pressure plausibility codes...

Reset adaptions and see if it goes away? Tune related?

[335dailyD]

Has this issue been diagnosed?

[dslbimmer91]

Did you ever get this problem solved? I am dealing with a very similar issue and have not been able to figure it out. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Got-Torque

New rail pressure sensor didn’t change anything, still going into limp mode with rail pressure plausibility codes...

Reset adaptions and see if it goes away? Tune related?

[nicklockard]

Originally Posted by OmahaDZL

I asked the same thing... He responded via PM that hes been running 2.8 for a while....at first it was strong...but has gotten worse over time....

Hmm...maybe its not the pump...maybe the rail pressure sensor? Might be an idea to contact Rob about his spare one to try it out.

Resurrecting this thread because I have:

• JR 2.8
• EGR delete (race pipe)
• DPF, SCR delete (3.5" ATM turbo-back)
• ATM stepped intercooler
• ATM hot & cold side boost hose kit
• CP3R90 HPFP (Remanufactured from Whitbread) I had local shop install because I kept getting insufficient rail pressure codes with the R70

New fuel filter
New VCG
New pressure regulators and vacuum lines--turbos make 36 psi by 1950 rpm's.

Peak torque 459 ft-lbs @2052 rpm's according to Torque app
Peak power 308 hp @ 41xx rpm's according to Torque app
106 mph final speed on 1/4 mile
Heavy smoke on acceleration (but goes away with additives)

Last Friday, I got spanked hard by a 2011 335d with nothing but JBD on lowest setting and EGR delete/racepipe.

Before I had the R90 HPFP installed it was much faster. Only code I can see from the friday night runs was 004674; cleared it, and it's not come back. I'm kinda stumped.

Bad HPFP?
Badly installed HPFP?
Bad LPFP?

Things to log or check? I have Torque app.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by nicklockard

Resurrecting this thread because I have:

• JR 2.8
• EGR delete (race pipe)
• DPF, SCR delete (3.5" ATM turbo-back)
• ATM stepped intercooler
• ATM hot & cold side boost hose kit
• CP3R90 HPFP (Remanufactured from Whitbread) I had local shop install because I kept getting insufficient rail pressure codes with the R70

New fuel filter
New VCG
New pressure regulators and vacuum lines--turbos make 36 psi by 1950 rpm's.

Peak torque 459 ft-lbs @2052 rpm's according to Torque app
Peak power 308 hp @ 41xx rpm's according to Torque app
106 mph final speed on 1/4 mile
Heavy smoke on acceleration (but goes away with additives)

Last Friday, I got spanked hard by a 2011 335d with nothing but JBD on lowest setting and EGR delete/racepipe.

Before I had the R90 HPFP installed it was much faster. Only code I can see from the friday night runs was 004674; cleared it, and it's not come back. I'm kinda stumped.

Bad HPFP?
Badly installed HPFP?
Bad LPFP?

Things to log or check? I have Torque app.

I hate buying remanufactured car parts. Never had good luck with them. I only buy new or maybe used parts I know are in working condition. I hope you figure it out though

[robnitro]

Talk to jr/aarod. Even though I like them, I think it's their responsibility to help diagnose issues as their tune has different parameters than stock. The worst of the tuners don't even give error codes, but supposedly that was fixed...

[Yozh]

Nicklockard, log fuel pressure requested and actual. Same for boost, air mass. Add exhaust pressure, sped, gear, rpm and pedal position.

[lnxguy]

Run a R70, what's the point of a R90 without hybrids?

[OmahaDZL]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Nicklockard, log fuel pressure requested and actual. Same for boost, air mass. Add exhaust pressure, sped, gear, rpm and pedal position.

^^^ This...

Even if you contact AA and JR, they are going to ask you to do logging. My guess is that if its fuel, its sensor related, and not pump related. I was getting some pressure fall off and it was the sensor on the pump....easy peasy.

But if you are getting more black smoke its too much fuel...and too little air... so its likely a boost issue...but... logging will tell you.

Trust me this is part of our fun (or you have to make it part of your fun) of owning this car.

[Got-Torque]

Well, a little update on my car. My issue was described in this thread a page or so back. Ended up finding injector #1 was bad. Replaced the injector early 2018. This was after replacing the LPFP, HPFP R90, and rail pressure sensor based on some advice from others. Replaced fuel filters, red boost tube o-ring, and removed and tested all the pressure regulators numerous times. No vacuum leaks found either.

Once car was driving again, it had a new weird issue. It was a loss of power at the upper end. It acted as if once the high pressure turbo was done (approx 20-25 psi total boost) there was no transition over to the low pressure turbo. Max boost seen was about 25 psi. Still drove fine but no boost over 25. My meth injection is set to come on around 23 or so it would barely trigger it to start coming on. I tested pressure converters on numerous occasions, checked movement on actuator arms, checked for vacuum leaks, etc. Couldn't find anything wrong at all and no codes.

Got kind of fed up and didn't drive it for a while. Over the summer I got some recall work done, put a thermostat and water pump on it, put some tires on it. Let my son take it to college for a while. This winter it started having battery issues and excessive drain messages. I did find a 4521 code for charging pressure control, high pressure stage, control deviation. Charging pressure too high. ??

I put a new battery in last week after it was completely dead. I assume this resets all the adaptations when it is dead? I started driving it to work. Boost is back to normal (max is upper 30's or so), pulls very hard and no codes so far. So that is good news.

I still have not been able to code my injector replacement and now need to register my new battery. For the life of me I can't seem to get any of the BMW tools I downloaded to work on my laptop or connect to the car anyway. My foxwell NT510 won't do either job.

For the time being it seems to be ok. I'll keep driving it now that the roads are better and see if the problem is really gone.

[klingon55]

Originally Posted by Got-Torque

Well, a little update on my car. My issue was described in this thread a page or so back. Ended up finding injector #1 was bad. Replaced the injector early 2018. This was after replacing the LPFP, HPFP R90, and rail pressure sensor based on some advice from others. Replaced fuel filters, red boost tube o-ring, and removed and tested all the pressure regulators numerous times. No vacuum leaks found either.

Once car was driving again, it had a new weird issue. It was a loss of power at the upper end. It acted as if once the high pressure turbo was done (approx 20-25 psi total boost) there was no transition over to the low pressure turbo. Max boost seen was about 25 psi. Still drove fine but no boost over 25. My meth injection is set to come on around 23 or so it would barely trigger it to start coming on. I tested pressure converters on numerous occasions, checked movement on actuator arms, checked for vacuum leaks, etc. Couldn't find anything wrong at all and no codes.

Got kind of fed up and didn't drive it for a while. Over the summer I got some recall work done, put a thermostat and water pump on it, put some tires on it. Let my son take it to college for a while. This winter it started having battery issues and excessive drain messages. I did find a 4521 code for charging pressure control, high pressure stage, control deviation. Charging pressure too high. ??

I put a new battery in last week after it was completely dead. I assume this resets all the adaptations when it is dead? I started driving it to work. Boost is back to normal (max is upper 30's or so), pulls very hard and no codes so far. So that is good news.

I still have not been able to code my injector replacement and now need to register my new battery. For the life of me I can't seem to get any of the BMW tools I downloaded to work on my laptop or connect to the car anyway. My foxwell NT510 won't do either job.

For the time being it seems to be ok. I'll keep driving it now that the roads are better and see if the problem is really gone.

How did you determine injector 1 was bad?

[rkstar9]

Is there any other way to get the pump puller tool other than aarod?

would someone be willing to lend me one? Im parting out my car and not worried about messing up the timing. just want the pump out.

not sure if hitting it w a hammer will mess up the pump
TIA

[lostsailor]

What does the hpfp bolt to? I broke this part while installing a new hpfp.

[RL18]

Just swapped my stock r70 for a r90.

Install was straightforward and pretty easy to do. Took me about 3hrs start to finish. The bottom bolt for pump is a little tricky to get because of angle but I use a long 13mm socket+flex joint+small extension and I was able to get the bolt loosened and I finished un screwing by hand. Left bolt closer to engine is a bit tricky too, I fully disconnected the hard line from fuel rail and pump to get a better angle, this also helps when you pull pump out later. Be careful tightening the flare nuts on hard line, you should hand tighten both ends then tighten both till you feel them begin to seat then tighten just slightly more on both, maybe 90 degrees more and it's tight. Also Special pump removal tool worked perfectly.

I used my foxwell schwaben scanner tool Did ->Service->Drive-> Motor electronics-> bleeding, fuel system. Primed the pump well over 400seconds cranked for about 10secs, exited function, ran function again to prime pump 140secs and cranked again for around 10secs and it fired right up. At this you can exit the function (I continued and it raised rpm to 2k for 10mins, this step isn't needed though).
Most importantly CHECK FOR LEAKS. Let car get up to temp. Shut car off, let sit for awhile, started it up, fired right off, drove around a bit. Came back home and checked for leaks.

No codes since, no limp from insufficient rail pressure, and no leaks. And it rips!!! Thank you for this DIY

[Yozh]

I need to do 10 min at 2k rpm. Just go for a drive.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by Yozh

I need to do 10 min at 2k rpm. Just go for a drive.

Did you mean "No" instead of "I"? It does seem excessive but it does sound pretty cool.

Believe me I went for a drive after

[Yozh]

Yes I meant no need. No need to sit there and spin your motor to 2k unnecessary.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by Yozh

Yes I meant no need. No need to sit there and spin your motor to 2k unnecessary.

I modified my original post, Thankyou for the clarification

[bluefish7]

So I'm still a bit confused on the new pump vs the old hose connections and how they changed it if anyone can help. Pics of old pump still installed and my new pump. So this yellow/white hose is supposed to hook in where? To the side port that now has a black cap on it? Assuming it tightens the hose back down onto the nipple?

[RL18]

Originally Posted by bluefish7@yahoo.com

So I'm still a bit confused on the new pump vs the old hose connections and how they changed it if anyone can help. Pics of old pump still installed and my new pump. So this yellow/white hose is supposed to hook in where? To the side port that now has a black cap on it? Assuming it tightens the hose back down onto the nipple?

Did you see my response to your post in the x5 forum? You have to completely pull that yellow hose and replace it with 3/8 fuel line and use some hose clamps to get it on the new pump

[bluefish7]

Originally Posted by RL18

Did you see my response to your post in the x5 forum? You have to completely pull that yellow hose and replace it with 3/8 fuel line and use some hose clamps to get it on the new pump

Ok now I see it, thanks. Where on the new pump does it go?

[RL18]

Originally Posted by bluefish7@yahoo.com

Ok now I see it, thanks. Where on the new pump does it go?

The bottom nipple is where it goes