[propshaft1]

Had a similar issue with my E46 330d. Turned out to be the in-line fuel pump. Like mentioned above, get diagnostics carried out.

Hope it helps.

[grafton]

Originally Posted by propshaft1

Had a similar issue with my E46 330d. Turned out to be the in-line fuel pump. Like mentioned above, get diagnostics carried out.

Hope it helps.

hi mate,


thanks for the response, but as i said recently i have carried out diagnostics yesterday via ISTA D and K+DCAN cable



maybe i could change the inline diesel filter that sits next to the auto box underneath (not been changed since before start of 2018, maybe earlier), as that may have caused the injectors to have gotten gummed up...

[rasa bmw]

Originally Posted by grafton

hi mate,


thanks for the response, but as i said recently i have carried out diagnostics yesterday via ISTA D and K+DCAN cable



maybe i could change the inline diesel filter that sits next to the auto box underneath (not been changed since before start of 2018, maybe earlier), as that may have caused the injectors to have gotten gummed up...

fuel filter only needs changed around 30 k miles ..cannot harm to try though,do mine every 3rd service,used to do it every service on my old e46 330d

[grafton]

i have only just had chance to start looking at the car today and stripping away all the plastic top pieces around the engine bay bulk head and wiper area.

rain water has been somehow leaking down on to the top of injector 6 and around the top of injector 5 as well (judging by the faint rusty stain marks around inj 5)

so yeah the top of 6 is more or less water logged (the car is hardly ever used atm). Presumably that rainwater sat there for weeks has killed the piezo electronic unit?

so its not the nozzle but the top end, the bit that cannot be repaired ??

[jwilalex]

Originally Posted by Daviebrown

Bmw crimp in a short section of cable with a new connector on for the fusebox wiring repair, they certainly dont replace the complete cable. I agree the recalls should be completed but i think your problem lies elswhere. What you describe is symptomatic of a piezo injector failure. Your dcan cable will confirm this.

Well that’s not factual because I can confirm the entire cable run was swapped on mine. It very much depends on the garage/dealer, the state of the cable and any manner of other unknown factors coming together to make the decision.

[therealdb1]

Originally Posted by jwilalex

Well that’s not factual because I can confirm the entire cable run was swapped on mine. It very much depends on the garage/dealer, the state of the cable and any manner of other unknown factors coming together to make the decision.

And mine which is why I suggested they pull the cable through. TBH splicing in a short section is a bodge and another potential issue waiting to happen a few years down the line.

Still sounds like the recall is the least of the OP's worries at the moment as the electrical side of his injectors are full of water!

[therealdb1]

Originally Posted by grafton

Presumably that rainwater sat there for weeks has killed the piezo electronic unit?

May not have done. I would expect the piezo to be well sealed.
Remember water is conductive so it may be a case that if it is wet it is shorting out the control signal. Dry it out completely with a hairdryer or similar and then test it with your ISTA.
Check inside the connectors of 4, 5 and 6 for corrosion but if the contacts are clean you might get away with it.

Of course, you need to determine why water is getting in there and stop it otherwise you'll be back to square one!

[Daviebrown]

Originally Posted by therealdb1

And mine which is why I suggested they pull the cable through. TBH splicing in a short section is a bodge and another potential issue waiting to happen a few years down the line.

61129312133 is the part number for the kit that bmw use and supply to carry out warranty repair on the front end of the battery+ Cable and this is what was used on my own car, in some cases the rear end of the cable corrodes where it passes through the boot floor. So i guess in some cases it may be neccesary to replace the full cable.

[jwilalex]

Yep and depending what’s found on initial assessment some have had an entire fuse board (is that the right terminology?) because of the discolouration and possible (or actual) heat damage to where that B+ cable joins it. So every car is individual and could be one of 3 levels so to speak:
1) cable end repair as Daviebrown mentioned
2) the full cable replacement as I and others got
3) the full cable and the replacement fuse board

[grafton]

thanks for the updates regarding bmw e9x recall repairs

but back to the injectors, is there a specific injector puller tool that can be used in the e9x engine bay?, as number inj 6 is tight up against the bulkhead/scuttle panel area and underneath the diagonal cross brace too

[therealdb1]

Have you tried drying them out? You can do that in situ before you worry about pulling them. Why create work for yourself if it is not necessary?

[grafton]

hi yes i have used some scotts workshop towel to gently put into the very fine gaps and soak up some of the rusty rain water, but access around inj 6 is extremely tight (well they all are apart from 1, 2, 3)

the slide on rubber trim piece that runs the width of the scuttle panel may have been at fault (sits under the removable cabin filter plastic piece), all the fine grit and gubbins in there may have opened up enough to let water drip down, drop by drop onto inj 6

[jacbo]

Originally Posted by grafton

thanks for the updates regarding bmw e9x recall repairs

but back to the injectors, is there a specific injector puller tool that can be used in the e9x engine bay?, as number inj 6 is tight up against the bulkhead/scuttle panel area and underneath the diagonal cross brace too

The panel which holds the cabin filter comes off pretty easily. The cross brace is also easy to remove - it's 2 screws holding it on. One is hidden under a plastic tab which twists off using a flat head screwdriver. If i remember correctly, for the 2 screws you need an E45 and E50 socket.

For injector removal, I used an ebay injector slide hammer which worked a treat. Was less than £20.

[grafton]

will this tool do the job? what size are the threads on top of the injectors M14 x 1.5?

it's £22 delivered

Images attached below

[jacbo]

Originally Posted by grafton

will this tool do the job? what size are the threads on top of the injectors M14 x 1.5?

it's £22 delivered

Images attached below

thats the one I have yeh. M14 is the thread.

i assume you have an M57 engine? see here for a decent guide. the guy used a more DIY slide hammer setup but for sake of £20 i'd get the ebay slide hammer. https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1290545

make sure you get new copper seals. they can get stuck as well

[grafton]

alright thank you, i am going to disconnect the battery now and also try and put the gearbox in 'N' and out of of park, in case it needs moving off the driveway (worst case scenario)

and try and unclip the injector fuel return rubber line hose off without the snapping the grey or black plastic pieces, before starting on the inlet removal

[grafton]

i have now finally got round to installing 2 brand new bosch injectors into cylinders 5 and 6. I have refitted everything and charged the car battery, and the engine cranks over fine but will not start up.....

do i need to 'code in' the injectors for the engine to actually start and run? why would the engine not be starting?

i hope its now only something simple..... any help leading me to the cause of this issue would be greatly appreciated.......

thanks

[jacbo]

Originally Posted by grafton

i have now finally got round to installing 2 brand new bosch injectors into cylinders 5 and 6. I have refitted everything and charged the car battery, and the engine cranks over fine but will not start up.....

do i need to 'code in' the injectors for the engine to actually start and run? why would the engine not be starting?

i hope its now only something simple..... any help leading me to the cause of this issue would be greatly appreciated.......

thanks

new injectors need coding in.

and it takes a lot of cranking to get the fuel back into the injectors after removing the solid fuel lines for the car to start

[Daviebrown]

You don’t need to code them to start it up, you need to bleed it with Dis Or Ista, give it a squirt of easy start or deoderant in the air intake and it should start up.

[grafton]

thanks, the car did eventually start after literally 30 seconds of constant cranking over, now i need to code them in, as soon as i get the chance

is it simple via ISTA+ (D)?

[gaz_ball]

I had a similar cutting out issue with my 2009 E91 335d. A bit stuck after replacing the diesel filter and running various injector related tests, which all seemed to look OK, I put it into a local specialist. They also concluded that the injectors looked good and were really struggling to find any problem, even struggling to replicate the issue. They told me they remembered similar symptoms on an E90 in the past that related to the DME relay and so offered to replace that whilst it was in, just on the off chance (they had one on the shelf and it was only a few quid so I thought might as well). I can't tell you that's what solved the problem but it hasn't happened since and so it might just be worth you trying.