2011 door actuator question

kris.lepine · 08-26-2015, 01:51 PM

I am new to the forum and have been searching the door actuator fixes for the last few days. Thanks to all the posts about diagnosing the problem I need to get a new actuator.

So I have found a lot of people have been ordering the double actuator kits and I would like to do the same, but when I look up the part number for a 2011 just one actuator is $200 and all the parts stores are listing that I cannot use the same as the double kit (143/146). They say the 143/146 can be used on the convertible but not the 4 door?

Does anyone know if I can actually use the 143/146 or am I stuck with buying the expensive one?

kris.lepine · 08-26-2015, 03:56 PM

Well I went ahead and ordered the kit from Tischer for $68. When I get it I will post on whether or not they fit.

As for my original problem with the actuator going bad... My lock and unlock worked fine with the remote and central locking and I was able to unlock using the inside door handle. But the door was stuck closed (drivers door).

I removed the door panel with the door closed and checked the cables, both worked fine.
I pulled really hard on the outside door latch (found a great write-up in forum), this did not work.
I then tried another thing found on the forum where you push in a cam in lock/unlock window and pull on the inside door latch at the same time, this did not work.
I ended up removing the rubber door seal from the inside and bending a piece of bailing wire to pick the latch from the inside of the car. I will post photos tomorrow.

kris.lepine · 08-31-2015, 09:19 AM

Ok so I got the part in from Tischer and after comparing the (07-09) right and left kit (51217263086) the parts (51217202143 - left kit part) to my actuator (10-11) (51217229461 - left). The mounting to the door, mounting for the cables, and wiring connection all match. There are some other cosmetic differences but nothing that appeared that it wouldn't work.

After installing the new actuator the only thing I found that was different is opening the door from the inside. Before if the door was lock I could pull the handle and it would unlock and open the door, now if I pull the handle it will only unlock and then you have to pull it again to open (not a big deal for me since I leave the auto-lock function off).

Hope this helps if you are looking to replace your actuators on a 2010-2011 and don't want to pay the $200 for a new actuator.

08-26-2015, 01:51 PM	#1
kris.lepine Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 2011 328i X drive Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Sioux Falls, SD iTrader: (0) Garage List 2011 BMW 328i X Drive [0.00]	2011 door actuator question I am new to the forum and have been searching the door actuator fixes for the last few days. Thanks to all the posts about diagnosing the problem I need to get a new actuator. So I have found a lot of people have been ordering the double actuator kits and I would like to do the same, but when I look up the part number for a 2011 just one actuator is $200 and all the parts stores are listing that I cannot use the same as the double kit (143/146). They say the 143/146 can be used on the convertible but not the 4 door? Does anyone know if I can actually use the 143/146 or am I stuck with buying the expensive one?
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08-26-2015, 03:56 PM	#2
kris.lepine Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 2011 328i X drive Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Sioux Falls, SD iTrader: (0) Garage List 2011 BMW 328i X Drive [0.00]	Well I went ahead and ordered the kit from Tischer for $68. When I get it I will post on whether or not they fit. As for my original problem with the actuator going bad... My lock and unlock worked fine with the remote and central locking and I was able to unlock using the inside door handle. But the door was stuck closed (drivers door). I removed the door panel with the door closed and checked the cables, both worked fine. I pulled really hard on the outside door latch (found a great write-up in forum), this did not work. I then tried another thing found on the forum where you push in a cam in lock/unlock window and pull on the inside door latch at the same time, this did not work. I ended up removing the rubber door seal from the inside and bending a piece of bailing wire to pick the latch from the inside of the car. I will post photos tomorrow.
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08-31-2015, 09:19 AM	#3
kris.lepine Registered 0 Rep 3 Posts Drives: 2011 328i X drive Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Sioux Falls, SD iTrader: (0) Garage List 2011 BMW 328i X Drive [0.00]	Ok so I got the part in from Tischer and after comparing the (07-09) right and left kit (51217263086) the parts (51217202143 - left kit part) to my actuator (10-11) (51217229461 - left). The mounting to the door, mounting for the cables, and wiring connection all match. There are some other cosmetic differences but nothing that appeared that it wouldn't work. After installing the new actuator the only thing I found that was different is opening the door from the inside. Before if the door was lock I could pull the handle and it would unlock and open the door, now if I pull the handle it will only unlock and then you have to pull it again to open (not a big deal for me since I leave the auto-lock function off). Hope this helps if you are looking to replace your actuators on a 2010-2011 and don't want to pay the $200 for a new actuator.
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