[sirdaft1]

Originally Posted by ibleedblue89

That's definitely something to keep in mind. As of the moment I'm still trying to decide if I want to go with a JB4 or use the cobb AP, but right now my main concern is identifying if the actuator rod adjustment is correcting my 30ff issue or just masking another problem. I'm thinking it may be my vacuum pump because on cold starts my brake pedal is rock hard.

You can use JB4 to adjust the default wastegate position with JB4 as well and it eliminates almost all of the WG rattle at the expense of increased lag.

[jsans]

Awesome, thanks for the info. Mine has been rattling for a bit

[naynay]

Originally Posted by lukepitt86

Am I right in saying that this can't be done on a rhd car? If so I'm absolutely gutted! Thought this was the answer to my rattle!!!

you can if you take out your downpipes and do it from underneath

[Shamza]

Originally Posted by naynay

you can if you take out your downpipes and do it from underneath

You can without taking them off, it's tight but achievable.

Post #21

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1090313

[sebeast]

Hey guys so for the longest time i had the typical annoying rattle under declaration. I finally did this last night and now the rattle is 90% gone i hear a tiny bit of a rattle that might be coming fromt the other wastegate. My question is how do i know if i tightened the rod too much? the car drives fine with no issues. Im just a little paranoid about tightening it too much and possibly hurting my turbo.

[335xMD]

So whenever I try to turn the actuator rod, the 10mm nut turns with it (ie trying to turn the rod retightens the 10mm nut...)
How in the world are you guys doing this without two hands in there to hold the 10mm nut while simultaneously turning the rod? I tried to prop a 10mm wrench in there while turning the rod without success...
Am I missing something?

[335xMD]

Originally Posted by 335xMD

So whenever I try to turn the actuator rod, the 10mm nut turns with it (ie trying to turn the rod retightens the 10mm nut...)
How in the world are you guys doing this without two hands in there to hold the 10mm nut while simultaneously turning the rod? I tried to prop a 10mm wrench in there while turning the rod without success...
Am I missing something?

So I ended up loosening the 10mm nut, then leaving the 10mm wrench on the nut & propped on the pipe facing the passenger side. This was the same way I tried before without success, but this time I managed to get a full turn of the rod while keeping the nut stationary. The wastegate rattle is still there, but sounds noticeably better. Gonna try for another full turn a bit later on!

PS strongly suggest spending $5 on a magnetic tool retriever for this

[MarcusE92]

I just had my turbos replaced 3 weeks ago under warranty, upon returning I heard a slight rattle on accel that I figured was maybe just a loose heat shield. after installing downpipes last weekend it got much louder and i do notice the rear turbo does have more than necessary play in the actuator rod. I loosened the 10mm nut but could not get the rod to turn with the wrench I had.. I was going to remove the E clip and pull the end off the flapper and turn that instead but I am sure I will loose the E clip and not be able to find a replacement. I am unsure what to do but BMW is telling me that since they replaced them per the bulliten that now all of a sudden the rattling is normal.....

[NotQuickEnough]

Want to try this on the weekend as well. How are the OG cars doing after this fix and years later?

[malgyver]

I did this when I had my DPs off for replacement. FYI I use the boost gauge hijack with my JB4.

Although the difference I noticed was a result of both going with new DPs and the wastegate fix, it was clear to me that my boost was building much earlier and quicker after adjusting the Wastegate.

Before I adjusted, I tried to actually push the wastegate flapper closed. Mine was so far out of adjustment that even with my hand pressure on the flapper, it was clearly open and would allow a lot of air to escape.

Previously, I wouldn't build any boost until maybe 1/3-1/2 throttle, and it would build slow. After the adjustment, I build boost just feathering the throttle. Now I get how BMW could advertise their torque numbers at such low RPM. Even if I feather the throttle at 1500 RPM, the boost jumps up instantly.

If your flapper is as far out of adjustment as mine was, then if you adjust it to close with 8+ inches of vacuum at idle, then you are going to notice a huge different in the low throttle response and power.

[NotQuickEnough]

Adjusted mine today and it made a big difference! I made only about 2 rotations.. probably could have done another 1/2 turn. But the rattle is greatly reduced. I only hear a slight rattle now when starting in 1st gear at very low rpms.

I also ended up making my own 4mm "wrench"



You gotta make it short enough to fit in there

[mirkwo0dforest]

1st post!!!!
So I've been trolling the hell out of these forums before I bought my 335i coupe. Anyway I bought it and didn't notice until the next day I had a rattle on start-up that went away after a while (not exhaust flap) and I kept getting reduced power half engine light.
I got the engine light EVERY single time I did WOT on 3rd gear pull and sometimes in 2nd gear if I ran it up over 5k. Needless to say I saw this post from last century and I adjusted my wg actuator last night.
HOLY COW! I though the car was okay, and now I'm seeing that this thing is pretty freggin quick. I must have only been boosting like 3lbs. After having it for 2 weeks and finally doing this I wish I would have done it day one! The rattle is pretty much gone, and this has cleared up all my 30FF lights and reduced power. And it's fast! YEEHAW! Can't wait to get my jb4 on now! Thanks guy from a long time ago who probably doesn't check this thread anymore but is awesome for doing the write-up.

[Jklad]

I noticed my nut hanging out quarter of the way down my rod (lol) -- it had actually come loose on its own!!! I gave it 1.5 turns this morning and I can't believe it - sounds like a new car! No more rattle during startup, no rattle during falling revs or letting off the gas while in gear. Thanks mr 5, wherever you are!!!

FYI this is my third set of wastegates, were replaced at 81k, currently at 115k with original turbos. Boost great after this (knock on wood). Car sounded like a bunch of Tin cans for the last 15k miles

[Mohammed T.B]

@Mr. 5
i was tring to get 10mm nut lose the actuator rod turn too evry time i turn the nut!
should i hold the rod and get nut lose?

[Billit335]

That's exactly what you need to do

[Beisofmarko]

Mine rattles on cold startups and goes away after 30sec-1minute after RPM's drop, i tried actuator rod with my hand today, there is no gap between 10mm nut and end of the rod, Rod moves alot in my opinion when i move it with my hand..?

Rattling seems to come from under the car between motor and seats i think?

Could this be fix for me aswell, should i try loosen the 10mm nut and roll the rod further inside for 2 revolutions or so? I Have also JB4 but i have "stock" map and it still rattles..

E: tried to loosen 10mm nut, rusted and no change to open that, gave a bit lube and bought tiny 10mm wrench but still feels like im gonna break something for sure before it opens...

Also noticed that even when warm when i rev 3-4k rpm+ after i leave throttle it makes short sound that doesnt feel like normal for me atleast? also when i activate the powerfull map on jb4 that sound becomes louder, still no rattling after engine is warm, only small ticking right side of the block i think (standing infront of the car, facing motor).

any clues?

[long335i]

Originally Posted by Jklad

I noticed my nut hanging out quarter of the way down my rod (lol) -- it had actually come loose on its own!!! I gave it 1.5 turns this morning and I can't believe it - sounds like a new car! No more rattle during startup, no rattle during falling revs or letting off the gas while in gear. Thanks mr 5, wherever you are!!!

FYI this is my third set of wastegates, were replaced at 81k, currently at 115k with original turbos. Boost great after this (knock on wood). Car sounded like a bunch of Tin cans for the last 15k miles

if i do this, would it fix my lag? i feel like my car is lagging. when i press on the gas hard my car doesnt spin out anymore.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by long335i

if i do this, would it fix my lag? i feel like my car is lagging. when i press on the gas hard my car doesnt spin out anymore.

I'm not sure. If you have a lot of rattling, and have had it for some time, and if it's being cause by the rods being loose, it's possible that it may help with some lag. It may have helped slightly with some lag on mine, but hard to tell.

If you think you have lag, you would probobly want to first check all your vacuum lines and replace, then solenoids, before messing with the wg arm.

[sirdaft1]

Originally Posted by Jklad

I noticed my nut hanging out quarter of the way down my rod (lol) -- it had actually come loose on its own!!! I gave it 1.5 turns this morning and I can't believe it - sounds like a new car! No more rattle during startup, no rattle during falling revs or letting off the gas while in gear. Thanks mr 5, wherever you are!!!

FYI this is my third set of wastegates, were replaced at 81k, currently at 115k with original turbos. Boost great after this (knock on wood). Car sounded like a bunch of Tin cans for the last 15k miles

Wanna come over and do mine??

[greensto]

Anyone have any trouble finding their wastegate actuator rod? I've watched the video for the fix and there seems to be a very obvious rod that runs parallel to the ground from the rear to front direction. I have leaned around and tried taking pictures, but I don't see it. Is it possible that it could have fallen off? I still hear definitive rattling...

This is the picture I used as a reference for the actuator rod I found in the video for fixing this issue...




Mine...

[JDuke335i]

Originally Posted by greensto

Anyone have any trouble finding their wastegate actuator rod? I've watched the video for the fix and there seems to be a very obvious rod that runs parallel to the ground from the rear to front direction. I have leaned around and tried taking pictures, but I don't see it. Is it possible that it could have fallen off? I still hear definitive rattling...

This is the picture I used as a reference for the actuator rod I found in the video for fixing this issue...

Attachment 1252657


Mine...

Attachment 1252641

What year model is your car

[amond003]

Highly recommend doing this. I had bad wastegate rattle under decell and this cleared it up. Only a slight hint on initial start.