[aaddam2]

just did a dyno day with JR 2.8 and i was rolling coal like that, but that is also with stagnant air in Chicago (600' above sea level). i usually dont see black clouds like that under normal driving conditions due to the wind swirling around. another deleted D was there was not putting out as much smoke, but i did make a tad more power

[fattoadray]

I finally got around to getting some Torque logs. I did 4 1/4 mile pulls and had a look at the data. I used custom extended PIDS from DWR (from original post). I'm not seeing anything jump out at me, everything looks normal. Torque reported 14.5s 1/4 mile times at 103MPH. (traction control disabled, transmission in sport, one foot from brake to throttle stomp) I changed to a brand new air filter for the last two pulls and didn't see any difference. Each run logged a maximum of 1.79bar intake 'boost' which may be an arbitrary number, but at least gives me an idea of how the compressors are working. I didn't see over 26PSI of boost, which may be the software being off, or an indication that something's wrong. BPC was talking ~35PSI under ideal conditions. Thoughts? I was really interested in getting some AFR data, but neither the regular nor extended PID worked.

What now? Should I get a high flow air filter, then go to a dyno with proper AFR monitoring? BPC had me convinced that something was wrong with the car (boost leak or similar). But after seeing your comments, I'm thinking I just need more air which replacing the air filter/housing may help out with. Any other suggestions if I'm missing something with Torque is appreciated.

[dmanb2b]

smoke would suggest boost leak, as does 26psi. Should be seeing 35ish on a 2+

[fattoadray]

I was expecting 35ish too, but didn't know if I could trust the Torque app to that degree.

I spent about 3 hours visually inspecting the charge air system for leaks and also performed a DIY smoke test at 10psi. I can't find anything obvious. All gaskets and seals were replaced when I performed the recent work. Does anybody know any other tricks to find boost leaks?

If those numbers are correct; I'm trying to visualize what size and where a leak would be for a 9psi loss. Or maybe one or both of the wastegates are not closing all the way... maybe? I'm trying to think how I'd go about testing those. (I did replace both EPDWs with OEM as well as all vacuum lines.)

[slowbrick]

I dont have BPC, I have another tuner and stage 2+ and Im running about 34psi full throttle. Not that much smoke either but stomp in second and it will smoke for sure. Im in FL. I replaced many of the things you did as well in your original post.

Since you are using extended PIDs, do you have the fuel lb/hr reading for comparison with others on here?

[fattoadray]

"I have had a bad experience with BPC. Long story short, when talking with them about purchasing a stage II+ tune for my 335d, I asked if any tweaking could be done to the tune if I wasn't happy with anything - because it is expensive. I was assured that I would be happy with the tune. Well, when I received it, the car ran too smoky for my liking. It went weeks of them telling me my car was the cause of the smoking and very bad fuel economy. I even took their recommendation of taking my car to a dealer for some tests which proved there were no issues with my car. BPC offered no post sale support for a tune that cost me $1,000. I even requested a refund and that my DDE gets returned to stock, and all they could do is tell me there was something wrong with my car. I was always civil when talking with them. At this point they stopped returning my emails. I do not recommend BPC for any of their products, I am very dissatisfied with their post sale customer service and support - especially for the high cost of their tune, which I'm still wondering the true source of. I have completely re-tuned my DDE meaning I completely lost $1,000."

More to come on this car's saga too for those who are interested in how to get a 335d - in any configuration - tuned and running exactly how you want it to!

[RL18]

Originally Posted by Lambobimmer

I have a BPC 2+ and it smokes about the same as yours. I did have an issue with their tune not allowing the ECU to throw codes and I had to send my ECU back about two months ago to correct this issue. My car has smoked a little more ever since they reflashed my ECU and I believe that they flashed me with their 2+ hot tune, which i believe adds a tad more boost. Prior to this reflash, I smoked much less.

Buy this intake filter. Connects directly to the MAF and flows as well if not better than ATM. I have owned both.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I agree with this. Had just the atm intake before without the air box they offer and experienced some smoke full throttle, threw this intake in and it’s cleared right up pretty much no smoke now

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by RL18

I agree with this. Had just the atm intake before without the air box they offer and experienced some smoke full throttle, threw this intake in and it’s cleared right up pretty much no smoke now

So you ran just the S&B filter from ATM without the airbox? I have been running ATM intake set-up for over 50K miles, almost zero smoke. That said it's with the airbox they provide, as designed.

Plenty others on here will vouch the same. The other filter does seem like it flows well, but not really a CAI without the airbox.

[RL18]

Originally Posted by dmanb2b

So you ran just the S&B filter from ATM without the airbox? I have been running ATM intake set-up for over 50K miles, almost zero smoke. That said it's with the airbox they provide, as designed.

Plenty others on here will vouch the same. The other filter does seem like it flows well, but not really a CAI without the airbox.

Correct. No air box. I’m sure the s&b flows a lot better with the airbox installed, and I’m not trying to put it down or anything, but I didn’t feel like paying the money for the filter with air box... I also didn’t like that the airbox is primarily steel which doesn’t do much insulating from heat but absorbs it... so I put this filter in which has double the surface area of the s&b, not saying it’s bringing colder air in but it definitely flows double the amount. Plus I wanna have something different

[dmanb2b]

Originally Posted by RL18

Correct. No air box. I’m sure the s&b flows a lot better with the airbox installed, and I’m not trying to put it down or anything, but I didn’t feel like paying the money for the filter with air box... I also didn’t like that the airbox is primarily steel which doesn’t do much insulating from heat but absorbs it... so I put this filter in which has double the surface area of the s&b, not saying it’s bringing colder air in but it definitely flows double the amount. Plus I wanna have something different

Nothing wrong with that FWIW, the steel box has a duct that feeds the OEM intake cold air duct from the front grill area, filling the box with outside air. I do notice more of a haze during summer temps vs. winter. Car is screaming right now with temps near freezing

[RL18]

Originally Posted by dmanb2b

Nothing wrong with that FWIW, the steel box has a duct that feeds the OEM intake cold air duct from the front grill area, filling the box with outside air. I do notice more of a haze during summer temps vs. winter. Car is screaming right now with temps near freezing

Originally Posted by dmanb2b

Nothing wrong with that FWIW, the steel box has a duct that feeds the OEM intake cold air duct from the front grill area, filling the box with outside air. I do notice more of a haze during summer temps vs. winter. Car is screaming right now with temps near freezing

Nope! Either way we both get to hear some wonderful sounds . And yes I knew that! I want to make my own air box using the air duct for this massive afe intake sometime... eventually lol. And I hear ya my D is lovin the temps too.