[ajsalida]

Originally Posted by WhiteFury

So I just spent a few hours tweaking my software and trying to figure things out and did an adaptation reset on the transmission. Now it shifts pretty damn good still a little rough but the slow shift between second and third gear is gone!

Did you change the fluid or is it still redline?

Drive real easy for 50 miles or so and then slowly build up to full throttle pulls.

[WhiteFury]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Did you change the fluid or is it still redline?

Drive real easy for 50 miles or so and then slowly build up to full throttle pulls.

Yes still redline. I did about 15-20 miles and then put a little throttle on it, nothing much really tho.

I ended up adding a different gs19.ipo to the SGDAT folder of my inpa which gave me a E70 option or something and i reset the whole car.

Now I just gotta figure out if its possible to reset the transfer case.


I am wondering whether or not to change to lifeguard now, I mean its recommended so I probably will.

[ajsalida]

So I'm confused, I thought you already reset the TCU adaptations before? You def need an updated GS19.ipo file for it to run with Alpina flash. It complains but it runs and resets.

Also LMK if you can reset TC with INPA. Have not tried myself.

WRT redline, I am skeptical of the people saying you must use lifegaurd. Quite a few threads about the specs for redline meeting or exceeding reqs for basically any AT anywhere, and some in very high end machines. To me it sounds like ZF's way to guarantee a revenue stream, that shit is expensive esp if you don't treat it as lifetime fluid and want to change it every 40k or so.

[WhiteFury]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

So I'm confused, I thought you already reset the TCU adaptations before? You def need an updated GS19.ipo file for it to run with Alpina flash. It complains but it runs and resets.

Also LMK if you can reset TC with INPA. Have not tried myself.

WRT redline, I am skeptical of the people saying you must use lifegaurd. Quite a few threads about the specs for redline meeting or exceeding reqs for basically any AT anywhere, and some in very high end machines. To me it sounds like ZF's way to guarantee a revenue stream, that shit is expensive esp if you don't treat it as lifetime fluid and want to change it every 40k or so.

I tried before and it didnt work, I believe the new ipo file I got worked.
Yea I tried 2 versions. One let me select E70 and it reset all adaptions. Then the other allowed me to normally do it but it complained LOL

It worked. The lazy shift that was delayed and slow between 2-3 is gone at part throttle. My rough shift at WOT between 2-3 is gone! I can also vouch and confirm that when I downshift the rev matches are butter smooth.

Looks like I may just buy 5 more quarts of D6 and just change the fluid to that LOL

P.S: do you know how to use ncsexpert? I coded my car to roll windows up and alot of other stuff and it all works except the mirrors folding in, I coded that but it doesnt work at all.

[ajsalida]

I have used NCS, but I'm no expert There is a coding section here with a lot of info and smarter people.

[WhiteFury]

The only thing I don't like now is when I put it in drive from neutral I can feel a very slight jump when it goes into drive mode.

Wasn't like that before and when going into reverse it doesn't do that.

[WhiteFury]

Here are the two bump stops. Z4m on the left, z4 on the right. I grabbed the Z4. Did I get the right one? It's shorter and softer than the z4m version.

Part number for the one I grabbed is - 33536770350

The "z4m" part number was - 33507836826

Which was the right one?

[ajsalida]

Please read what you wrote, I am a little confused with the wording.

What matters is how they compare in length to the OEM XI rear stop. You want it to be 1" or so shorter. As long as that condition is satisfied, use the firmer of the two. I would tend to always go with M versions, so long as it is the right length, though of course the shorter one would work too.

[WhiteFury]

Originally Posted by ajsalida

Please read what you wrote, I am a little confused with the wording.

What matters is how they compare in length to the OEM XI rear stop. You want it to be 1" or so shorter. As long as that condition is satisfied, use the firmer of the two. I would tend to always go with M versions, so long as it is the right length, though of course the shorter one would work too.

I bought the Z4 bump stop. It came with a new dust boot. The Z4m doesnt. The Z4 bump stop is about 1/3 tp 1/2 inch shorter and a noticeably softer.

Maybe I should grab the M versions. I am thinking that since I am getting TCkline rear konis (which are 1 inch modified) that I will gain back 1 inch out of the 1.5 that I lowered. So the M version might be better but I am no suspension expert.

[WhiteFury]

Just out of curiosity lets say the tckline shocks that lower the car half a inch is too much or I am scraping. The spot on top of the perch where that washer goes that the top hat rides on. I can always put a big round spacer there and then put the top hat spacer on that raising the car by the thickness of the spacer right?