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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > E90 / E92 / E93 3-series Powertrain and Drivetrain Discussions > N54 Turbo Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications - 335i > Dynamic Autowerks n54 turbos



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      09-09-2019, 10:04 PM   #573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJC612 View Post
I think that because the exhaust manifold is not OEM, it just puts the turbo cartridge a few mm off from the stock mhi location. Just a slight shift in space that made that line in particular just not work. But -8 push on line fit like a charm. It is a big job, be prepared to have the car off the road for a while
Luckily i have the trusty ol minivan that's only half way through its warranty lol. I wonder if the RB high flow drains would completely alleviate that headache since its no hard lines. I know i need to replace my drain lines on my 106k mile car. I'm excited to see what I can hit on 93 only, until i can convince the wife that methanol is a necessity. Since she doesn't know about my car at all, just tell her the stock one is broken
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      09-10-2019, 07:16 AM   #574
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She doesn't know about your car?! Damn good luck with that mane and def keep that minivan close!
It would and to each their own but I'd say RB oil drains are a complete waste of money. If you decide you are gonna go the route of fittings with rubber line in between, It only took me 5 minutes and I made my own oil drains basically same fittings as you would get ordering from RB other than being stock diameter which is fine cuz they are not undersized at all. And like I said, the size is -8, easy.
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      09-10-2019, 11:55 AM   #575
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I will note with the stage 2's my downpipes took more finessing than usual to get the vband In place for the rear turbo, almost tighter? I hate aligning the downpipes to the remaining section of exhaust, it did seem tighter, I had to use a screwdriver to hold the gasket in for the flange then place the bolts onto the flange.

Side note: Also I broke stud into the head and cannot remove it, I tried welding it about 6 times with a mig and then using vice grips to remove it, and well it would shear every time.i tried to drill it out and use a bolt extractor, and well just the tip broke, and well I'm not removing a hardened steel with TiN or Cobalt drill bit. So I said, if I have issues I will drop the engine and trans with the subframe. So far 1 stud isn't a deal breaker in the case someone runs into this.
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      09-10-2019, 02:30 PM   #576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsource View Post
I will note with the stage 2's my downpipes took more finessing than usual to get the vband In place for the rear turbo, almost tighter? I hate aligning the downpipes to the remaining section of exhaust, it did seem tighter, I had to use a screwdriver to hold the gasket in for the flange then place the bolts onto the flange.

Side note: Also I broke stud into the head and cannot remove it, I tried welding it about 6 times with a mig and then using vice grips to remove it, and well it would shear every time.i tried to drill it out and use a bolt extractor, and well just the tip broke, and well I'm not removing a hardened steel with TiN or Cobalt drill bit. So I said, if I have issues I will drop the engine and trans with the subframe. So far 1 stud isn't a deal breaker in the case someone runs into this.
firstly, agreed.. DPs were much more of a pain to align with exhaust at the flanges. I also stuck a screwdriver through bolt holes and then sucked them together with hardware. My biggest learning there is leave the v bands on, but loose while you do this. That way downpipes can rotate into the ideal position while you torque them to the exhaust. Then once connected and flanges are tight, drive home the vbands with a long extension. Worked like a charm!
And wowow dsource that looks like so much fun
I also had problems with just one single stud. It would not come out of the head and felt like it was gonna snap if I fucked on it any harder. So I opted to run a dye over it clean up the threads and leave her be! Got a new nut on there and it worked again, like a charm. If anyone runs into that I recommend reusing the stud rather than risking breaking it.
Another sidenote, I have drilled out BMW LUG BOLTS with cobalt drill bits. It's a tiny stud, it could be done but it certainly won't be fun and snapping bits is a risk.
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      09-10-2019, 07:25 PM   #577
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Thats the thing that absolutely terrifies me, those studs are old and tiny, If I snap a bolt off in the block, I don't know what I would do. I don't have the mechanical prowess to drill it out, etc etc, and am afraid I would ruin the entire block. Then the wife would know all she needs to about the car....off to the junkyard.
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      09-10-2019, 07:26 PM   #578
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsource View Post
I will note with the stage 2's my downpipes took more finessing than usual to get the vband In place for the rear turbo, almost tighter? I hate aligning the downpipes to the remaining section of exhaust, it did seem tighter, I had to use a screwdriver to hold the gasket in for the flange then place the bolts onto the flange.

Side note: Also I broke stud into the head and cannot remove it, I tried welding it about 6 times with a mig and then using vice grips to remove it, and well it would shear every time.i tried to drill it out and use a bolt extractor, and well just the tip broke, and well I'm not removing a hardened steel with TiN or Cobalt drill bit. So I said, if I have issues I will drop the engine and trans with the subframe. So far 1 stud isn't a deal breaker in the case someone runs into this.
wow that sucks breaking one off tight spot.
I am in ct and some of mine were tough I was patient on stubborn ones sprayed pblet sit then with socket on bolt head giving light taps with hammer sideways just to break tension if not for the small taps and spraying I would have snapped one myself..
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      09-10-2019, 07:56 PM   #579
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So wondering if someone thinks a small boost leak would throw of my boost target so much..figured I would not make boost not overshoot..
Bq told me something up with car was having hard time with map..
I flashed back to mhd 7 till I figure it out..
To start just did turbos not long ago when I did I replaced all vacuum line with Platinum Cured Silicone Vacuum don't think that would be problem even though looks thicker outside but slightly smaller inside than stock was could be my eyes though..

also got vdo 3.5 t-map and burger harness so I did not have to repin.. and it is checked in mhd.. was thinking putting old 2.5 back and reflash and test drive...

anyway I had new pierburg boost solenoids here would be the log earlier here is log
https://datazap.me/u/cgn54/new-boost...og=0&data=3-24

then I installed old ones here is log
https://datazap.me/u/cgn54/old-boost...=3-24&mark=167

when I did that I took out the stock manifold absolute pressure sensor 13627585492 that is on intake manifold it was kinda grimy looking sprayed cleaner on it was still dirty put new o-ring reinstalled
would that effect over shooting boost...I have never replaced that yet??
I know t-map on charge pipe does actual boost but do they work together????
don't want to buy one if I don't have to but I don't understand do I need to change that one also to match my 3.5 t-map
lastly I have vrsf aluminum outlets with one small 3in silicone connector.
and relocated 2.25 inlets..
vrsf 5 steped intercooler
sorry long ramble so busy at work trying to get her running smooth thanks for any advice before I go boost leak testing
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      09-10-2019, 07:59 PM   #580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgbimmer View Post
So wondering if someone thinks a small boost leak would throw of my boost target so much..figured I would not make boost not overshoot..
Bq told me something up with car was having hard time with map..
I flashed back to mhd 7 till I figure it out..
To start just did turbos not long ago when I did I replaced all vacuum line with Platinum Cured Silicone Vacuum don't think that would be problem even though looks thicker outside but slightly smaller inside than stock was could be my eyes though..

also got vdo 3.5 t-map and burger harness so I did not have to repin.. and it is checked in mhd.. was thinking putting old 2.5 back and reflash and test drive...

anyway I had new pierburg boost solenoids here would be the log earlier here is log
https://datazap.me/u/cgn54/new-boost...og=0&data=3-24

then I installed old ones here is log
https://datazap.me/u/cgn54/old-boost...=3-24&mark=167

when I did that I took out the stock manifold absolute pressure sensor 13627585492 that is on intake manifold it was kinda grimy looking sprayed cleaner on it was still dirty put new o-ring reinstalled
would that effect over shooting boost...I have never replaced that yet??
I know t-map on charge pipe does actual boost but do they work together????
don't want to buy one if I don't have to but I don't understand do I need to change that one also to match my 3.5 t-map
lastly I have vrsf aluminum outlets with one small 3in silicone connector.
and relocated 2.25 inlets..
vrsf 5 steped intercooler
sorry long ramble so busy at work trying to get her running smooth thanks for any advice before I go boost leak testing
forgot I had er charge pipe with tial bov that I drilled taped 1/4 fitting kept thinking that was my issue..
so I switched back to phoenix charge pipe with stock dv with filters on end.. same thing
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      09-11-2019, 08:55 AM   #581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgbimmer View Post
So wondering if someone thinks a small boost leak would throw of my boost target so much..figured I would not make boost not overshoot..
Bq told me something up with car was having hard time with map..
I flashed back to mhd 7 till I figure it out..
To start just did turbos not long ago when I did I replaced all vacuum line with Platinum Cured Silicone Vacuum don't think that would be problem even though looks thicker outside but slightly smaller inside than stock was could be my eyes though..

also got vdo 3.5 t-map and burger harness so I did not have to repin.. and it is checked in mhd.. was thinking putting old 2.5 back and reflash and test drive...

anyway I had new pierburg boost solenoids here would be the log earlier here is log
https://datazap.me/u/cgn54/new-boost...&data=3-24

then I installed old ones here is log
https://datazap.me/u/cgn54/old-boost...4&mark=167

when I did that I took out the stock manifold absolute pressure sensor 13627585492 that is on intake manifold it was kinda grimy looking sprayed cleaner on it was still dirty put new o-ring reinstalled
would that effect over shooting boost...I have never replaced that yet??
I know t-map on charge pipe does actual boost but do they work together????
don't want to buy one if I don't have to but I don't understand do I need to change that one also to match my 3.5 t-map
lastly I have vrsf aluminum outlets with one small 3in silicone connector.
and relocated 2.25 inlets..
vrsf 5 steped intercooler
sorry long ramble so busy at work trying to get her running smooth thanks for any advice before I go boost leak testing
Ask BQ if he hard coded the 3.5bar tmap into the bin file he sent you. If he did, AND you checked the 3.5bar tmap check box in MHD when flashing, I would guess it could result in the issue you are having. Just double check
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      09-11-2019, 11:54 AM   #582
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I don't want to derail this thread, but I plan on upgrading the Fuel Pump with the Walbro 525LPH, will it be enough with one pump? It seems like the most cost effective method to get enough fuel pressure + flow for port injection and driving the HPFP. Only concern is the current draw this pump, i'm guessing i might fry the EKP? Is the EKP "upgrade" necessary? DW Stage 2 turbos. Looking to run them up to 24psi.

Some data behind it:
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Last edited by dsource; 09-11-2019 at 02:20 PM.. Reason: broken link
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      09-11-2019, 01:04 PM   #583
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Will it be enough for what?
Yes, the current could fry the EKP.
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      09-11-2019, 03:30 PM   #584
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsource View Post
I don't want to derail this thread, but I plan on upgrading the Fuel Pump with the Walbro 525LPH, will it be enough with one pump? It seems like the most cost effective method to get enough fuel pressure + flow for port injection and driving the HPFP. Only concern is the current draw this pump, i'm guessing i might fry the EKP? Is the EKP "upgrade" necessary? DW Stage 2 turbos. Looking to run them up to 24psi.

Some data behind it:
The BPM4 is an awesome upgrade for more reasons than simple EKP module reliability. I myself will 100% be purchasing one. If you are running PI, you will likely run out fo fuel on normal pump gas on the low pressure when you hit 22-24ish psi but whether or not it is "enough" depends on your goals. The real issue with the stage 2 is it does not support E mixes as well because E is less dense has to be compressed more and more volune (flow thru pump) is needed to reach same power output but you get that cooler burn and less detonation. E blends work the pumps much closer to capacity. If you run stage 2 pump and PI with E mix, you WILL have pressure dips down to 50 = not desirable
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      09-11-2019, 07:36 PM   #585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJC612 View Post
Ask BQ if he hard coded the 3.5bar tmap into the bin file he sent you. If he did, AND you checked the 3.5bar tmap check box in MHD when flashing, I would guess it could result in the issue you are having. Just double check
thanks man but I had unchecked in mhd and he added that for map
took 3.5 t-map out put 2.5 back with old boost solenoids now is this log mhd 7
https://datazap.me/u/cgn54/log-15682...=0&data=3-5-24
it looks like from my other 2 logs I did need the new boost solenoids

not sure if valve cover is old maybe hairline crack somewhere never replaced just changed gasket twice would that effect my logs like that??
also I checked turbos before install mity vac 6 psi to close both of them
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      09-11-2019, 08:49 PM   #586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsource View Post
I don't want to derail this thread, but I plan on upgrading the Fuel Pump with the Walbro 525LPH, will it be enough with one pump? It seems like the most cost effective method to get enough fuel pressure + flow for port injection and driving the HPFP. Only concern is the current draw this pump, i'm guessing i might fry the EKP? Is the EKP "upgrade" necessary? DW Stage 2 turbos. Looking to run them up to 24psi.

Some data behind it:
You will cook your ekp with a 525, blow fuses, or both.
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      09-13-2019, 09:37 AM   #587
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What's up guys,

I got the DAW stage 2 + turbos installed and all I can do is laugh and smile!
Just thinking about the Amazing acceleration and pull gets me going again. Lol!

I love these turbos even though they've only been on for 3 days. DAW has provided exceptional customer with responding to emails. Im running an e45 mix BQ custom tune.
Mods: Mr 5 intake, BMS downpipes, Wagner performance evo 2 intercooler, BMS inlets, BMS PCV valve(just got it so not installed yet). Fuel it Stage 2 e85 pump.

https://datazap.me/u/brakthru/log-15...og=0&data=3-22

I'm getting between 500-550+ hp and 530-600+ tq. It's really hard to find perfect roads around here so logs vary due to traction. ECU tries to adjust power for the road surface. Log dyno is a good app. Those dynos with the highest power was crazy. The car was blazing fast! ECU had to adapt through to the different maps.

I'm still on original stock hpfp. No port injection or meth. Will eventially go with the Helix when im ready for more power.

The map is still being tuned. So, the final product will be better.

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      09-13-2019, 12:30 PM   #588
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Ok guys,
Disregard the last dyno. I think it's incorrect. It had a rmp spike or irregularity at the end when off throttle that i tried to edit out. So, I left the log as is. The spike or irregular rpm at the end wasn't stopping log dyno from accurate results. The car was decelerating. This one should be more accurate.

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Last edited by brakthru; 09-13-2019 at 12:49 PM..
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      09-13-2019, 04:43 PM   #589
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Originally Posted by brakthru View Post
Ok guys,
Disregard the last dyno. I think it's incorrect. It had a rmp spike or irregularity at the end when off throttle that i tried to edit out. So, I left the log as is. The spike or irregular rpm at the end wasn't stopping log dyno from accurate results. The car was decelerating. This one should be more accurate.

Attachment 2141019
This is what I was referring to, your low pressure fuel dropped to 50 which is too low. Your pump is not keeping up sir, even at only 20psi. Your car is begging for stage 3 lpfp lol
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      09-14-2019, 07:53 AM   #590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RJC612 View Post
This is what I was referring to, your low pressure fuel dropped to 50 which is too low. Your pump is not keeping up sir, even at only 20psi. Your car is begging for stage 3 lpfp lol
At these power levels, that's to be expected. However, the numbers you were looking at was after i was done with my full throttle run. There was 0 pedal and the throttle was closing because the run was complete and decelerating. Lol! I think the performance is Fantastic considering the power level!

I will agree that a stage 3 lpfp is next in order but no emergency.

Last edited by brakthru; 09-14-2019 at 07:59 AM..
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      09-14-2019, 09:09 AM   #591
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The power is def fantastic. I am happy you posted this log bc I was so on the fence about what to do with my low pressure fuel setup... stage 2 or stage 3, 450 or 525, BPM4 or no BPM4 bla bla bla. Now I know for certain Stage 2 is out. Stage 3 with BPM4 it must be. That particular flag was a lil misplaced, was just showing how low it got at the end but you hit 55psi low pressure at 5923 rpm man you need more fuel there is power left on the table it's dippinnnn
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      09-15-2019, 08:22 PM   #592
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So what do you think caused the front turbo drain line to be too long? Is the turbofold longer than OEM? since the rotating assembly looks to be the same I wouldn't think the clock would be off on that turbo...interesting.

I'm going to be getting the 2+ in a couple of weeks and DIY it in my garage. Seems pretty daunting, biggest thing i've done on my car so far is adjusting rear actuator rod and using the washer trick for the front because of rattle. Anxiety goes up every time i think about it.
Doing turbos really aren't that bad. The most difficult thing honestly - is getting the rear inlet on. Everything else is cake.

Make life easy - drop the subframe - it takes maybe 10 minutes.
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      09-15-2019, 09:29 PM   #593
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Doing turbos really aren't that bad. The most difficult thing honestly - is getting the rear inlet on. Everything else is cake.

Make life easy - drop the subframe - it takes maybe 10 minutes.
Yeah I plan on dropping it, like I said, having the car fall on me is my biggest fear.

I work on an Army base and they have an auto center that lets you rent the lifts and use the tools. It's only $7 /hour and $5 if you need to keep it in the bay overnight. So I think i'm def going to do that. I already have a nice digital torque wrench and my engine support bar. I just need to decide if I want to replace my 1.75" MMP inlets with OEM located 2" or relocated.

I think $120ish is a great deal to NOT have to worry about garage issues.
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      09-15-2019, 09:58 PM   #594
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Looks like VehicularDIY finally posted his numbers from the Stage 2 install he did

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