DIY Spring/Shock Install Question

Dan_Q · 03-08-2016, 07:05 AM

Tomorrow I'll be installing my new Eibach/Koni spring/shock setup. I purchased all of the parts that would allow me to fully build up the front shock assemblies without having to swap over any parts from the old assemblies. I figured it would be one way of saving some time when I do the install and the parts that are reusable are pretty inexpensive.

I see most DIYs will compress the old springs prior to removal from the car and then install the new assembly with them compressed. Like shown in the picture below. Since I already compressed the springs to get them installed to the strut, am I going to need to do that for any reason or will the assembly fit into place with the shock fully extended? Compressing the springs was a PITA and it will be even more so within the confines of the wheel well. If I need to do it then I need to pick up something other than my 18" crescent wrench that I used to turn the screws on my spring compressors.

feuer · 03-08-2016, 07:16 AM

Well, if you disconnect the tie rod from the upright and loosen up the control arms from the subframe you will be able to get the strut-spring assembly without having to compress the string. No alignment woul dbe required but you will have to tighten the control arm when the suspension is loaded. Now, in order to get the strut out of the clevis you will need a spreader tool. Is inexpensive and very useful tool. You can make your own as well. Take a look:

slupie · 03-08-2016, 09:08 AM

[QUOTE=feuer;19528937]Well, if you disconnect the tie rod from the upright and loosen up the control arms from the subframe you will be able to get the strut-spring assembly without having to compress the string. No alignment woul dbe required but you will have to tighten the control arm when the suspension is loaded. Now, in order to get the strut out of the clevis you will need a spreader tool. Is inexpensive and very useful tool. You can make your own as well. Take a look:[/QUOTE

I just did the same this past Saturday and I confirm that if you loosen both of the control arm bolts from the sub frame the whole spindle pivots down enough to get the top hats out without compressing the spring. Remove the front portion of the front wheel liner and two bolts per side from the belly pan closest to the control arm that is in line with the spindle. You'll see them once you are underneath there.

feuer · 03-08-2016, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slupie

I just did the same this past Saturday and I confirm that if you loosen both of the control arm bolts from the sub frame the whole spindle pivots down enough to get the top hats out without compressing the spring. Remove the front portion of the front wheel liner and two bolts per side from the belly pan closest to the control arm that is in line with the spindle. You'll see them once you are underneath there.

Exactly! I always disconnect the tie rod for the steering just do avoid any possible damage to the rack or the tie rods. I'm able to remove the strut/spring assembly and put it back on in 15 to 20 minutes tops (after the car up and the wheel removed of course)

davidwarren · 03-08-2016, 12:42 PM

you can also just use a 1/4 extension if you don't want to buy a special tool or grind something else down. Just know that it will round off after a couple times.

But yeah, loosen the control arms and you can swing the whole assembly down. disconnect the headlight leveler too.

brocklanders · 03-08-2016, 02:07 PM

There is a how to video from ecs on their site and on YouTube, where they do a strut and shock r&r on an e92.

Dan_Q · 03-08-2016, 04:33 PM

Many thanks for the advice. I should be good to go to install these. I'm regretting planning to do the front control arms with my next round of suspension work in a month or so since it looks like it would have been minimal work to just do them now. I'm very curious to see how the new parts will feel on the road. Spring weather has arrived in Colorado and I've been having a good time tearing up the canyons on weekend mornings recently.

Sered · 03-08-2016, 06:20 PM

I've never had to disconnect any suspension arms in order to get the shock body out. No spring compressor needed either.

I've also found that a crowbar-chisel can spread the clevis just fine.

feuer · 03-08-2016, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sered

I've never had to disconnect any suspension arms in order to get the shock body out. No spring compressor needed either.

I've also found that a crowbar-chisel can spread the clevis just fine.

True, but why advise someone to work harder when you can turn few more wreches and get the job done safely and neatly for the same time invested.

jwebb335xi · 03-09-2016, 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by feuer

Quote:

Originally Posted by slupie

I just did the same this past Saturday and I confirm that if you loosen both of the control arm bolts from the sub frame the whole spindle pivots down enough to get the top hats out without compressing the spring. Remove the front portion of the front wheel liner and two bolts per side from the belly pan closest to the control arm that is in line with the spindle. You'll see them once you are underneath there.

Exactly! I always disconnect the tie rod for the steering just do avoid any possible damage to the rack or the tie rods. I'm able to remove the strut/spring assembly and put it back on in 15 to 20 minutes tops (after the car up and the wheel removed of course)

Do you need a spring compressor once the assembly is off the car to safely take it apart?

PhaseP · 03-09-2016, 01:09 AM

Quote:

Do you need a spring compressor once the assembly is off the car to safely take it apart?

Of course!! The spring is in a lot of tension held by the top nut on the strut piston and stores a lot of energy in it in that assembly. If you remove that top nut without compressing the spring safely and securely spring will release violently and very dangerously flying away itself any other part in the strut assembly.

You have to have respect to the amount of energy it holds and can release even when compressing it with the spring compressor if not used correctly.

Some videos and links:

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...essor+accident

mweisdorfer · 03-09-2016, 10:43 AM

There is a great video on Bav auto on how to change the shocks and struts.

Also, ECS tuning has one as well.

feuer · 03-09-2016, 11:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

There is a great video on Bav auto on how to change the shocks and struts.
Also, ECS tuning has one as well.

That Bav Auto video instruction is pathetic. Tech is using a screw driver to spread the clevis after every thing is loosen up. Is just dumb to do it like that. Especially in that order!

03-08-2016, 07:05 AM	#1
Dan_Q Second Lieutenant 119 Rep 241 Posts Drives: F80 M3, F15 X5 50i Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Colorado Front Range iTrader: (5) Garage List 2018 M3 [9.50] 2015 X5 xDrive50i [10.00]	DIY Spring/Shock Install Question Tomorrow I'll be installing my new Eibach/Koni spring/shock setup. I purchased all of the parts that would allow me to fully build up the front shock assemblies without having to swap over any parts from the old assemblies. I figured it would be one way of saving some time when I do the install and the parts that are reusable are pretty inexpensive. I see most DIYs will compress the old springs prior to removal from the car and then install the new assembly with them compressed. Like shown in the picture below. Since I already compressed the springs to get them installed to the strut, am I going to need to do that for any reason or will the assembly fit into place with the shock fully extended? Compressing the springs was a PITA and it will be even more so within the confines of the wheel well. If I need to do it then I need to pick up something other than my 18" crescent wrench that I used to turn the screws on my spring compressors.
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03-08-2016, 07:16 AM	#2
feuer Major General 4277 Rep 9,209 Posts Drives: wife crazy! Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Chicago, IL iTrader: (5)	Well, if you disconnect the tie rod from the upright and loosen up the control arms from the subframe you will be able to get the strut-spring assembly without having to compress the string. No alignment woul dbe required but you will have to tighten the control arm when the suspension is loaded. Now, in order to get the strut out of the clevis you will need a spreader tool. Is inexpensive and very useful tool. You can make your own as well. Take a look: Attached Images
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03-08-2016, 09:08 AM	#3
slupie Lieutenant 103 Rep 475 Posts Drives: 07 328iT, Montego Blau Join Date: May 2008 Location: Bartlett, IL iTrader: (2)	[QUOTE=feuer;19528937]Well, if you disconnect the tie rod from the upright and loosen up the control arms from the subframe you will be able to get the strut-spring assembly without having to compress the string. No alignment woul dbe required but you will have to tighten the control arm when the suspension is loaded. Now, in order to get the strut out of the clevis you will need a spreader tool. Is inexpensive and very useful tool. You can make your own as well. Take a look:[/QUOTE I just did the same this past Saturday and I confirm that if you loosen both of the control arm bolts from the sub frame the whole spindle pivots down enough to get the top hats out without compressing the spring. Remove the front portion of the front wheel liner and two bolts per side from the belly pan closest to the control arm that is in line with the spindle. You'll see them once you are underneath there.
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03-08-2016, 12:42 PM	#5
davidwarren Captain 188 Rep 670 Posts Drives: 328,325, 325, 335, X5, 640 GC Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Louisville, ky iTrader: (0)	you can also just use a 1/4 extension if you don't want to buy a special tool or grind something else down. Just know that it will round off after a couple times. But yeah, loosen the control arms and you can swing the whole assembly down. disconnect the headlight leveler too. __________________ 2010 335i e90 Le Mans Blue/Chestnut Brown \| M-Sport \| 6MT
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03-08-2016, 02:07 PM	#6
brocklanders Major 107 Rep 1,428 Posts Drives: the uno, mineral white Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: houston iTrader: (3) Garage List 06 325 [0.00]	There is a how to video from ecs on their site and on YouTube, where they do a strut and shock r&r on an e92.
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03-08-2016, 04:33 PM	#7
Dan_Q Second Lieutenant 119 Rep 241 Posts Drives: F80 M3, F15 X5 50i Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Colorado Front Range iTrader: (5) Garage List 2018 M3 [9.50] 2015 X5 xDrive50i [10.00]	Many thanks for the advice. I should be good to go to install these. I'm regretting planning to do the front control arms with my next round of suspension work in a month or so since it looks like it would have been minimal work to just do them now. I'm very curious to see how the new parts will feel on the road. Spring weather has arrived in Colorado and I've been having a good time tearing up the canyons on weekend mornings recently.
	Appreciate 2 Quote

03-08-2016, 06:20 PM	#8
Sered Major 148 Rep 1,201 Posts Drives: 08 E90 335i Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Melbourne, FL iTrader: (3)	I've never had to disconnect any suspension arms in order to get the shock body out. No spring compressor needed either. I've also found that a crowbar-chisel can spread the clevis just fine. __________________ '08 E90 w/ just boltons '09 Z4 sDrive35i w/ just boltons
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03-09-2016, 10:43 AM	#12
mweisdorfer Major General 1909 Rep 6,968 Posts Drives: 2007 Black/Black 335i e90 Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Holly, MI iTrader: (0) Garage List 2007 BMW E90 335i [0.00] 2008 bmw x5 [0.00]	There is a great video on Bav auto on how to change the shocks and struts. Also, ECS tuning has one as well.
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