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Which N54 rod bearings to buy?
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10-23-2018, 08:26 PM | #1 |
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Which N54 rod bearings to buy?
I needed to inspect my lower end and found that my rod bearings are not spun or "bad" but since the car is apart in my garage I may as well replace the rod bearings since I am already this deep in , they have some scoring, and I already bought the new rod cap bolts. Any bearing brand preferences? I see there are options for shot peened bearings, "KING" brand ones on eBay, etc. but I would like to hear from people who have bought and tried bearings already. I got a look at the numbers on my crank and all 6 of my stock bearings were the "r" designation of Yellow for upper and Red for the lower ones. I have attached some photos of the bottom ones I currently have.
Last edited by JonEQuest; 10-23-2018 at 08:33 PM.. |
10-24-2018, 07:32 AM | #4 |
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10-24-2018, 01:55 PM | #5 |
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I am still running stock, but will go with them when Blackstone says to do so. As you are already right there you should install new ones, even if stock. You put the time and effort to get to that point, be proactive and save yourself the trouble having to do them in a year or so.
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10-24-2018, 02:13 PM | #6 | |
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10-25-2018, 08:56 PM | #7 | ||
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10-25-2018, 09:35 PM | #9 |
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I definitely have to come back and share my triumph or tears. I am sure it will turn out good. I will straighten the windage tray that the rod bolt was scraping on. I removed the metal slivers that the windage tray left in my oil pan. I will have new rod bearings (for longevity, since mine were OK). I also just installed new catless downpipes since I had a bad turbo gasket. I figured if I am doing that job, I may as well put some upgraded pipes back in. I also found 2 more Easter eggs in a cracked left motor mount bracket AND cracked transmission mount bracket that I am replacing as I put things back together. After all that, the car has to run a lot smoother.
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10-26-2018, 10:08 AM | #10 |
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I've putted these German ones few months back.
More in my other thread: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1537653 |
10-26-2018, 11:09 AM | #11 | |
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[IMG] View post on imgur.com [/IMG]Wow you have done a lot of work to your car. Makes me feel like I've done nothing in comparison. |
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10-26-2018, 12:03 PM | #12 | |
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To be honest I never planned doing all of it, but as in your case, you take stuff off and it sort of makes sense to replace bits while you're there. Worst / best thing about this platform is, there is always something more you can tweak, improve upon! My current rebuild will make me very happy, but I already know that next year I need to save for double barrel HPFP or PI fueling to unleash new TD04H's ... it never ends |
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05-09-2019, 11:21 PM | #14 |
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All is still good!
I am updating that it has been months since installing new "King" brand rod bearings and I have run the hell out of the car with 0 issues to date. The bearings looked just like the OEM ones I swapped out. Besides the issue I had with King accidentally packaging some "0.25" bearings as "STD" (standard) size everything went smooth.
It really was an easy repair once you get to the actual rods. They rods have what's called "cracked" caps so just do one at a time to not mix them up since each one is cracked so that it perfectly fits onto the rod it came from. This is to have a large surface area bite that is exactly aligned. |
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05-10-2019, 08:16 AM | #15 |
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Do you have a model number for the bearings you got? Also, any special tools needed? I keep reading that measurements need to be taken and such
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05-10-2019, 10:48 AM | #16 | |
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The RaceEng website doesn't show the bearings but give them a call, they just got a shipment in. As for what else to replace, I bought the following: 11247589671 (rod bolts) x 12. I bought 14 in case I'm an idiot somehow. 11410426472 x 1. I'm not 100% positive this is the right part but I believe some of these bolts in the package need to be replaced when you remove the oil pump and baffle. 11417527092 x1. There's a pickup tube gasket that needs replacing as well. Don't think there's anything else other than that. Wish me luck boys! It may be easier just to leave the bearings alone and not fuck with it but I think it's worthwhile and I already have the engine on the stand so I might as well do it. |
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05-10-2019, 10:51 AM | #17 |
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Let me know how it goes. Been doing a bunch of research. And so far I've found that if you don't take measurements and put the right size in and/or have them milled so they fit you'll either be fine, or you engine will blow up lmao
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05-10-2019, 12:59 PM | #18 | |
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With that said, I picked up a handful of Plastigage strips (we need the green ones) at PepBoys the other day and I'll be checking the clearance using the old bolts to torque to spec. Also bought some Permatex assembly lube for the job as well. This is about as critical of a component as it gets so I'm realllly not trying to fuck anything up. If I do then I should have just left it alone. I should have some pics of the bearings off an 80k mile used 535i junkyard motor for you all to see, idk about you guys but I'd love to see more bearing condition photos on these cars considering all the spun bearings recently. Oh and I'll probably have some photos of my rekt bearings from the old motor but that'll be a few more weeks lol |
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05-10-2019, 03:16 PM | #19 | ||||
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2007 335XI SEDAN // JB4 G5 // BMS METH KIT // VRSF DOWNPIPES // AFE DCI // ER CP W/ TIAL BOV // MMP SILICONE INLETS // XHP STAGE 3 AT FLASH // TREBILA BEF // BMS OCC // VRSF EXHAUST // FUEL-IT STAGE 2 LPFP // VRSF FMIC // PRECISION RACEWORKS IGNITION SYSTEM // CATUNED COILOVERS // CIC AND COMBOX RETROFIT //
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05-10-2019, 06:22 PM | #20 |
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Per MMP the King bearings provide additional clearence over the stock bearings. When I had mine installed the plastigage checks were pretty much right on .002. Stock is .001. As Johny Quest (my spelling) said, do the plastigage checks for your peace of mind.
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05-10-2019, 08:07 PM | #21 |
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Ok. I'm just asking the question here because I don't know. Not trying to be sarcastic etc.
Why are rod bearings having to be replaced on an n54? From what I've read the internals in this engine are pretty stout from the factory. I've only read that the rod bearings on the e90 M3 engine have to be replaced. |
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05-10-2019, 08:30 PM | #22 | |
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2007 335XI SEDAN // JB4 G5 // BMS METH KIT // VRSF DOWNPIPES // AFE DCI // ER CP W/ TIAL BOV // MMP SILICONE INLETS // XHP STAGE 3 AT FLASH // TREBILA BEF // BMS OCC // VRSF EXHAUST // FUEL-IT STAGE 2 LPFP // VRSF FMIC // PRECISION RACEWORKS IGNITION SYSTEM // CATUNED COILOVERS // CIC AND COMBOX RETROFIT //
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n54, n54 rod bearings, rod bearings |
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