[Asonchadwick]

Originally Posted by 335stoner

not if its a gravity fed drain system, letting the oil fall into the pan is better in all situations

I was under the impression it was a pressurized bypass system.

[silverseal99]

Originally Posted by Asonchadwick

I was under the impression it was a pressurized bypass system.

It is. However, like a water leaving a garden hose, once it leaves the confines of the oil passage (i.e., returns to the pan) the pressure differential drops to zero.

[silverseal99]

In another post (UPDATED - Engine Swap - 335D Crankshaft Main Bearings and Bolts Question), Ground Zero queried whether it was normal for 335d oil to soot up very quickly.

Short answer is "Yes" when compared to a Chevy Duramax with 145,000 miles on it.

I apologize for any redundancies or errors in protocol here--I'm new to posting of this sort.

I have two 2011 335d cars--one stock with about 35K miles and one with 98K miles and a Frantz bypass oil filter installed (per my prior post). Both have very dirty oil very quickly when compared to my 2001 Chevy Duramax which also has a Frantz filter installed.

I blot test my oil routinely using a kitchen paper towel to provide a rudimentary assessment of oil cleanliness. I keep the blotted towels for subsequent comparison as the oil ages in the car. While the blot test provides a sense of degree of soot accumulation, it does not provide a measure of the size of the soot particles. Accordingly, I also periodically submit oil samples to Blackstone Labs for assessment of the overall health of my engine(s).

Regarding the blot test. Place a drop of oil onto a clean kitchen paper towel. Virgin oil blots out clear. As the oil accumulates soot, subsequent blots will tend to darkening shades of gray with a darker ring around the perimeter. Very dirty oil will have a darker "eye" at the center of the blot.

After 8,000 miles on a change, my Duramax blots out very nearly clear while both 335d quickly blot out dirty.

Normal full flow oil filters remove particulates down to about the 25 micron range while the Frantz filter removes them down to the 2-4 micron range. This tells me that, while the oil may be sooty in the high mileage car, the particle size of the soot is very small and thus less likely to be a major wear factor (depends on resultant particle diameter and oil film thickness in the journals).

There's a lot more to this story but that can wait.

[robnitro]

What's the oil capacity of the duramax compared to the 35d?
Are both still using dpf?

[nicklockard]

I generally love the idea of bypass oil filters, and I put one on my VW ALH Tdi. But that was a four cylinder engine with less than 4L of oil (about 2L oil per L displacement).

My 335d uses nearly 8 liters of oil which computes to 2.5L oil per L displacement. Another 1.25 L couldn't hurt, but how much can I extend my oil change interval? I currently run Shell Rotella T6 for 16,000 miles. it cost $73 for oil & filter.

With my driving, I don't think I could ever recoup the expense of a bypass filtration system. And I tow.

[Trail2go]

Silverseal99 has a detailed installation PDF on E90POST.COM but uses a Franz filter and is laying down on its side (what a mess to change). Instead I located the Insane Diesel Extreme X1 filter in front of the radiator. There is adequate room there, more than any place else.

I cut 2 strips of schedule 80 PVC pipe (could also use schedule 40) to avoid covering the openings in the curved housing opposite of the radiators ( sure what the openings are for, so didn’t want to cover up).


null

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As you can see, I countersunk in the pvc pipe (first attempt, put too high) thru which I put 1” long flathead bolts instead of the supplied bracket bolts. I tried using a multi-plastic pvc glue, put that didn’t adhere to the BMW plastic housing, so ended up using JB Weld epoxy.
Even thou I dry fitted the bracket assembly before gluing, the placement of the filter housing was a little off, so I bolted slotted extenders to the bracket as you can see in the second picture down.







Kit comes with a new billet aluminum swivel oil filter cap for the oil return line. I covered the house with stainless steel braided sleeve from Amazon (probably not needed)



I drilled a 1” hole in the plastic and added a rubber grommet for the return line to go through.



Drilled here for line coming from the oil distribution/sending block to the inlet on the filter housing.




I had my mechanic remove the oil pressure sensor on the factory oil filter housing, and attached it Bimmerworld.com oil distribution/sending block part # 100115300003. The out going hose is also attached to this block. There doesn’t seem from forum posts to be anything other than this to fit in this space unless you weld up something custom. This installation works on the e70 diesel, and from silverseal99’s PDF looks like it would work on the e90 diesel also. I now have functioning 1 micron bypass filter that is also easy to access to change the filter.

[silverseal99]

It's installed on its side but I left sufficient length in the hoses to stand it upright and let it drain a bit before I change the element. No muss, no fuss so far.

[Darkswarmer]

Originally Posted by Trail2go

Silverseal99 has a detailed installation PDF on E90POST.COM but uses a Franz filter and is laying down on its side (what a mess to change). Instead I located the Insane Diesel Extreme X1 filter in front of the radiator. There is adequate room there, more than any place else.

I cut 2 strips of schedule 80 PVC pipe (could also use schedule 40) to avoid covering the openings in the curved housing opposite of the radiators ( sure what the openings are for, so didn’t want to cover up).


null

null
As you can see, I countersunk in the pvc pipe (first attempt, put too high) thru which I put 1” long flathead bolts instead of the supplied bracket bolts. I tried using a multi-plastic pvc glue, put that didn’t adhere to the BMW plastic housing, so ended up using JB Weld epoxy.
Even thou I dry fitted the bracket assembly before gluing, the placement of the filter housing was a little off, so I bolted slotted extenders to the bracket as you can see in the second picture down.







Kit comes with a new billet aluminum swivel oil filter cap for the oil return line. I covered the house with stainless steel braided sleeve from Amazon (probably not needed)



I drilled a 1” hole in the plastic and added a rubber grommet for the return line to go through.



Drilled here for line coming from the oil distribution/sending block to the inlet on the filter housing.




I had my mechanic remove the oil pressure sensor on the factory oil filter housing, and attached it Bimmerworld.com oil distribution/sending block part # 100115300003. The out going hose is also attached to this block. There doesn’t seem from forum posts to be anything other than this to fit in this space unless you weld up something custom. This installation works on the e70 diesel, and from silverseal99’s PDF looks like it would work on the e90 diesel also. I now have functioning 1 micron bypass filter that is also easy to access to change the filter.

This is awesome thank you for the pictures! This is the exact kit I'm looking at installing. Do you have any more pics of the installed oil feed line? Do you know if your mechanic had to move some stuff out of the way to install the block and then the sensor?

Thanks and cheers.

[Darkswarmer]

Ok, the 20% black friday sale at Insane Diesel got me to order this additional 1 micron filter kit same as Trail2go
shows above with pics. I plan to document the process for my car as well. https://insanediesel.com/products/vo...tallation-kit/

My justification:
I want to keep this car for many years to come, and I really like the idea of even cleaner oil / reducing engine wear / fewer CBU cleanings. Since I've already bought the tools and done my own first CBU cleaning, I'm invested, and would enjoy having to do it less often because I do drive it like I stole it

I'm planning to document the process and share my findings. Any tips from those of you who have added a 2nd oil filter on our 335d would be welcome and appreciated!

Wish me luck...

[Asonchadwick]

Any issues returning the oil back into the pan through the drain hole???

[Nadir Point]

Originally Posted by Asonchadwick

Any issues returning the oil back into the pan through the drain hole???

Any relatively low pressure point of entry will do. Soot particles initially range in size around 1Um, posing no real threat to wear rates. Initially. The problem comes in, and needs managed most, in applications where they are running long OCIs, and even in some cases, literally only ever changing filters. It is doable, in a carefully managed environment.

That problem is known by the term "agglomeration." It happens when soot suspended in the oil doing it's job, begins agglomerating, over time. When it doesn't get filtered out over time, wear rates increase. The delta between the typical full flow filtration capture size and the soot particle size above xUm is what wears out engines.

It happens fast, slow or anywhere in-between, depending on your oil service quality.

[Asonchadwick]

Originally Posted by Nadir Point

Any relatively low pressure point of entry will do. Soot particles initially range in size around 1Um, posing no real threat to wear rates. Initially. The problem comes in, and needs managed most, in applications where they are running long OCIs, and even in some cases, literally only ever changing filters. It is doable, in a carefully managed environment.

That problem is known by the term "agglomeration." It happens when soot suspended in the oil doing it's job, begins agglomerating, over time. When it doesn't get filtered out over time, wear rates increase. The delta between the typical full flow filtration capture size and the soot particle size above xUm is what wears out engines.

It happens fast, slow or anywhere in-between, depending on your oil service quality.

Ok so I can tap into oil drain plug with a tee then.

[Darkswarmer]

Alrighty guys. Excited to try this. Just got all my parts. Here's a quick video showing how I plan to use the Bimmerworld sending block (part number 100115300003) with the sending block that comes with the Insane Diesel kit for TDIs and BMW's (it's the brass one in the video). I'm sorry I don't know the proper names for everything and probably sound like a noob— I am not a mechanic Happy to be corrected on part names n stuff though:

I tested the oil filler cap that came with the kit and it fits just as snug as the factory one, so I'm good on the return line going thru the filler cap provided by the kit.

I am planning to let the car sit for 20 ish hours so the oil can drain down into the pan as much as possible before I try and remove the oil pressure switch (part #7 here https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_2328) and make a mess. I'm thinking to hook up the filter and lines and start the car and see if it complains about the oil pressure switch being moved to a new location BEFORE mounting the filter. Figure I'd wanna know that before I really commit and drill holes in the car to properly mount the filter...

As mentioned in the video, between the two sending blocks (the Bimmerworld one and the bypass kit one) I am left needing another block plug. Going to stop by a few places to see if I can find one.

[Darkswarmer]

First mod on my BMW done successfully! I now have a working 1 micron filter added to my car! No leaks, no warning lights. Yay. I drove a few miles, did some hard starts and stops, ran the engine pretty hot and the car didn't complain and didn't leak. I think I"m done! Here's my victory lap / overview of setup:

I ended up not needing the brass, smaller sending block that came with the Insane Diesel kit. I teflon wrapped everything and tightened everything together on the sending block all the way to the nipple the hose fits over— BEFORE installing the sending block on the car.

I will say for anyone attempting this on the 335d you will have to get a bore scope or wire camera. You can't see the oil pressure switch or the sending block, and you have to tighten them both down completely blind unless you set up a camera. See video above.

For the mounting bracket, there was a convenient space of open frame just the right size for it, next to the driver suspension. I had to turn the wheel all the way to the right and reach far up into the wheel well with a crescent wrench to hold the nut still while I reached into the engine bay to tighten the bolt with the other hand. Then crank the wheel all the way to the left and repeat the process for the other bolt. You have to wrap your hand (holding a crescent wrench) around the suspension to get a good grip on the nut. It was... very difficult. Wife was laughing at me saying it looks like I'm humping the car. It was the hardest part for sure. Lower back is killing me today. Worth it though, it's a very solid mount right on the frame and leave clearance for other parts. I did the whole job in probably 6 hours. That's because I'm a noob though, I think most the folks here could do it in half that time.

Anyway, I did snap some pics with my camera scope tool I thought others here might find useful:

I rested my camera scope on the alternator and pointed it right at the pressure switch, and had my phone resting on the engine cover. That was literally the only way I could get a crescent wrench over the switch and loosen it while seeing what I was doing. No other way to see it. I strongly suggest letting the car sit for a day or so. This paid off for me because removing the switch only dripped oil like once every 5 seconds, which was manageable with a rag. Also I marked the pressure switch tightness so I knew where to put it back in case I couldn't finish the job.


Tightening the Bimmworld sending block with its banjo bolt back into the pressure switch hole. You can only see one copper washer in this pic but there is another one in between the sending block and the engine block itself. Remember to do this or you won't get a proper seal. I was able to get a 17mm socket and ratchet down there to tighten the banjo bolt.


Once the banjo bolt is tightened and the sending block is secure to the engine I was able to install the pressure switch into the sending block. I just reused the washer that came off with the pressure switch— it seemed in good shape. Because of the long fat electrical connector I wasn't able to use a socket (a deep one didn't have enough clearance) so I used a crescent wrench to tighten the pressure switch to the sending block.


I ended up loosening the sending block and pointing it directly towards the mounting bracket where the 2nd oil filter will go. Was way easier that way. Here's what that looked like after re-tightening:


And that's it! Finished with plenty of room, no leaks, no complaints from the car (so far!).

[Mik325tds]

Nice clean install! Thanks for the pics.

[silverseal99]

So I've had 2 years on my Frantz bypass filter installation. No significant issues (major leaks, degradations or other failures), but the bypass filter did not achieve the "clean oil" result I had hoped for. Oil remains black and filthy, but I'm confident that the filth is generally on the order of 2-4 microns or less (good from a wear perspective).

I recently performed a carbon buildup cleaning of my 335d which had never been done in the 115,000 miles it has on the clock. The substantial carbon fouling of the intake runners and the valves have made me shift my interest to installation of a Mann ProVent 200 in lieu of the bypass oil filter (I will probably need to remove the Frantz to make room for the ProVent). I live in "the late state of California" so deletes are not an option.

From what I have read, what others have reported, and what I have experienced with the bypass filter, I now believe the ProVent catch can would be an order of magnitude more effective in preventing carbon buildup. I will keep my oil clean with religious oil and filter changes...

OBTW, I left enough slack in the oil lines to allow me to upright or invert the Frantz for filter changes, so I haven't made a mess (yet!). That is, except for when I removed the oil fill cap, got distracted, and cranked it over before I replaced it... Tough getting old!

[Asonchadwick]

So for those who have installed these filters how much cleaner does your oil appear to be? I see the frantz doesn't appear cleaner but, who is to say without oil analysis.

[Nadir Point]

Originally Posted by silverseal99

Oil remains black and filthy, but...

What's the oil analysis report say? I don't remember ever seeing color tint as a value returned, and don't know if filthy includes wear metals or just soot levels.

Originally Posted by Asonchadwick

So for those who have installed these filters how much cleaner does your oil appear to be?

If appearance was an issue I suppose sending it to a lab for analysis would be overkill.