[connorc996]

Hi all looking for some advice or if anyone has had the same problem , recently replaced the water pump and thermostat as my car was leaking a huge amount off coolant and turned out the pump was cracked everything was fine bled the system properly and was running perfect with no leaks etc now I’ve found that when the system is under pressure coolant sprays up in the engine bay so thought it was the expansion tank , changed that today and problem still persists which is making me think it could be exhaust gasses over pressuring the cooling system and causing the pressure relief valve to open and let pressure out spraying the coolant , hoping this isn’t the case as this would most likely be the head if this is the problem I know head gaskets going on the n54/n55 are very rare didn’t know if anyone has had similar issue or could shed some light , any help would be appreciated , thanks In advance

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by connorc996

Hi all looking for some advice or if anyone has had the same problem , recently replaced the water pump and thermostat as my car was leaking a huge amount off coolant and turned out the pump was cracked everything was fine bled the system properly and was running perfect with no leaks etc now I've found that when the system is under pressure coolant sprays up in the engine bay so thought it was the expansion tank , changed that today and problem still persists which is making me think it could be exhaust gasses over pressuring the cooling system and causing the pressure relief valve to open and let pressure out spraying the coolant , hoping this isn't the case as this would most likely be the head if this is the problem I know head gaskets going on the n54/n55 are very rare didn't know if anyone has had similar issue or could shed some light , any help would be appreciated , thanks In advance

You probably have an o-ring issue. I'd go through every connection and replace the o-rings.

However, first I'd put the car up on jack stands and or a lift, take the underbelly pan off; run the car and try and figure out where exactly the leak is coming from. The hoses themselves, for the most part, are very stout. The o-rings only last so long though.

[connorc996]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

You probably have an o-ring issue. I'd go through every connection and replace the o-rings.

However, first I'd put the car up on jack stands and or a lift, take the underbelly pan off; run the car and try and figure out where exactly the leak is coming from. The hoses themselves, for the most part, are very stout. The o-rings only last so long though.

The leak is coming out the header tank cap , it’s defiantly not a hose ,I’ve gave the car a thorough look through today the coolant reservoir smells of exhaust gasses and the expansion tank still holds pressure when the car has sat overnigh, my verdict is that I have a cracked block or cylinder liner after speaking to a bmw tech who has helped me out before , I don’t think it’s the head gasket as I have no mayo under the oil cap ect I think it’s exhaust gasses getting into the coolant system and over pressurising the system when under load making the pressure relieve valve on the cap spray coolant , I’m thinking of putting it back together and adding some head gasket sealant like k seal ultimate as it says it will fix a damaged or cracked block instead of completely stripping the the head and go deeper into my pockets I’ve already replaced everything on the cooling system other that my rad which looks fine , if the k seal doesn’t work I think I have to pull the head and investigate further worst case scenario will be a new engine and I think I would just get rid of the car at that point , anything else you can think of other than expaintion tank , water pump , thermostat , hoses as they have all be replaced by myself recently ?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by connorc996

The leak is coming out the header tank cap , it’s defiantly not a hose ,I’ve gave the car a thorough look through today the coolant reservoir smells of exhaust gasses and the expansion tank still holds pressure when the car has sat overnigh, my verdict is that I have a cracked block or cylinder liner after speaking to a bmw tech who has helped me out before , I don’t think it’s the head gasket as I have no mayo under the oil cap ect I think it’s exhaust gasses getting into the coolant system and over pressurising the system when under load making the pressure relieve valve on the cap spray coolant , I’m thinking of putting it back together and adding some head gasket sealant like k seal ultimate as it says it will fix a damaged or cracked block instead of completely stripping the the head and go deeper into my pockets I’ve already replaced everything on the cooling system other that my rad which looks fine , if the k seal doesn’t work I think I have to pull the head and investigate further worst case scenario will be a new engine and I think I would just get rid of the car at that point , anything else you can think of other than expaintion tank , water pump , thermostat , hoses as they have all be replaced by myself recently ?

Your situation is really an anomaly to an N54, N55, or N52 motor. I think I'm 10 years I've been on this forum you might be the only one who is reporting a cracked block or cylinder liner. I'm not saying that's not the problem.. Even a head gasket, on one of the engines listed above, is extremely rare. Idk what to tell you.

As far as keeping the car....

You have to determine how much is it really worth to you...

A new or newer (CPO) car will run you $500 a month or $6000.00 a year plus higher costs for insurance.

A rebuilt N54, might cost around $3500 to 5,000.00 or so. So, one years worth of new car payments.


https://www.ghassanautomotive.com/pr...bmw-n54-engine

The above link could be a starting point, if you have to go that route

[connorc996]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Your situation is really an anomaly to an N54, N55, or N52 motor. I think I'm 10 years I've been on this forum you might be the only one who is reporting a cracked block or cylinder liner. I'm not saying that's not the problem.. Even a head gasket, on one of the engines listed above, is extremely rare. Idk what to tell you.

As far as keeping the car....

You have to determine how much is it really worth to you...

A new or newer (CPO) car will run you $500 a month or $6000.00 a year plus higher costs for insurance.

A rebuilt N54, might cost around $3500 to 5,000.00 or so. So, one years worth of new car payments.


https://www.ghassanautomotive.com/pr...bmw-n54-engine

The above link could be a starting point, if you have to go that route

I know it is very strange and cannot find any decent information of other people that have had the same issue I just cannot think of another reason for the coolant to be spilling out the tank cap as it was literally replaced yesterday and only leaks when the car is driven hard it’s really puzzling me I’m thinking of doing ofhg and oil cooler gasket while I’m doing the valve cover gasket and fully changing oil / coolant before I go to adding k seal into it , would like to avoid putting that through the car but cannot think of anything else.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by connorc996

I know it is very strange and cannot find any decent information of other people that have had the same issue I just cannot think of another reason for the coolant to be spilling out the tank cap as it was literally replaced yesterday and only leaks when the car is driven hard it’s really puzzling me I’m thinking of doing ofhg and oil cooler gasket while I’m doing the valve cover gasket and fully changing oil / coolant before I go to adding k seal into it , would like to avoid putting that through the car but cannot think of anything else.

What ever you DO NOT deal with Ghassan. If it isn’t mixing oil and coolant that doesn’t mean head gasket isn’t bad. All depends where the issue is. Also, that doesn’t mean is cracked cylinder liner (n54 doesn’t have those btw) or block. You said coolant pump was leaking. Was the engine overheating? How many times? How often? Also, have you confirmed if the replacement pump actually work properly? Same with the thermostat?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

A rebuilt N54, might cost around $3500 to 5,000.00 or so. So, one years worth of new car payments.


https://www.ghassanautomotive.com/pr...bmw-n54-engine

Nuh! It will cost hell of a lot more of you get Ghassan “rebuilt” engine. Here a list of where extra money would potentially go:
-another engine
-a lot of liquor for you to get over the mistake
-for physiological therapy
-attorney fee if you went burn his shop or beat him up

[connorc996]

Originally Posted by feuer

What ever you DO NOT deal with Ghassan. If it isn’t mixing oil and coolant that doesn’t mean head gasket isn’t bad. All depends where the issue is. Also, that doesn’t mean is cracked cylinder liner (n54 doesn’t have those btw) or block. You said coolant pump was leaking. Was the engine overheating? How many times? How often? Also, have you confirmed if the replacement pump actually work properly? Same with the thermostat?

Yeah the coolant pump was leaking so bad initially thought it was just the vent line hose which I replaced then had to replace the top hose to after the recovery mechanic ruined that and tired to temp fix it , I would say car overheated a fair few times and I had to limp it home between then and water pump change but only had the amber water temp light a few time and the red one once where I turned the car off and left for a good hour before I limped it home as I was stuck and had no other choice , it literally held no pressure at all crack was around 1-2cm in the bottom of the pump so changed it out with a new pump & thermostat and it works fine have don’t the bleed procedure a fair few time and can hear pump working and circulating as it should also when running the car doesn’t run hot or over heat it just pushes coolant out the relief valve on the cap when I drive it hard which makes me think it’s exhaust gasses getting to the cooling system through a leak in the combustion chamber ? The Bmw tech I spoke to said something about the cylinder lines but I think he meant cylinder sleeves and they defiantly do have them in the n54 unless I completely wrong but I don’t think I am in sure they have a aluminium block and cast iron cylinder sleeves/ liners ? I just cannot think of anything else that could be making that relief valve open every time the car is driven hard ?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by connorc996

Yeah the coolant pump was leaking so bad initially thought it was just the vent line hose which I replaced then had to replace the top hose to after the recovery mechanic ruined that and tired to temp fix it , I would say car overheated a fair few times and I had to limp it home between then and water pump change but only had the amber water temp light a few time and the red one once where I turned the car off and left for a good hour before I limped it home as I was stuck and had no other choice , it literally held no pressure at all crack was around 1-2cm in the bottom of the pump so changed it out with a new pump & thermostat and it works fine have don’t the bleed procedure a fair few time and can hear pump working and circulating as it should also when running the car doesn’t run hot or over heat it just pushes coolant out the relief valve on the cap when I drive it hard which makes me think it’s exhaust gasses getting to the cooling system through a leak in the combustion chamber ? The Bmw tech I spoke to said something about the cylinder lines but I think he meant cylinder sleeves and they defiantly do have them in the n54 unless I completely wrong but I don’t think I am in sure they have a aluminium block and cast iron cylinder sleeves/ liners ? I just cannot think of anything else that could be making that relief valve open every time the car is driven hard ?

You should have towed the car. Probably is the head gasket. Yes, liner-sleeve, I understand what you meant now. I have seen them cracked. I haven’t seen replacement part.

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by feuer

Nuh! It will cost hell of a lot more of you get Ghassan “rebuilt” engine. Here a list of where extra money would potentially go:
-another engine
-a lot of liquor for you to get over the mistake
-for physiological therapy
-attorney fee if you went burn his shop or beat him up

Lol...

Where or who would you get a rebuilt N54 from?

[connorc996]

Originally Posted by feuer

You should have towed the car. Probably is the head gasket. Yes, liner-sleeve, I understand what you meant now. I have seen them cracked. I haven’t seen replacement part.

Another think and one of the other things I am thinking (hopeing) could it be heater core or radiator ? As the car did have 2 bottles of stop leak go through it pre water pump and thermostat being fitted , would that cause pressure relief valve to open ?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by mweisdorfer

Lol...

Where or who would you get a rebuilt N54 from?

I wouldn’t. I would either do it myself which I have done or get used engine. I have worked on car that been at Ghassan shop. They are lying, stealing butchers not rebuilders. Stay away.

[feuer]

Originally Posted by connorc996

Another think and one of the other things I am thinking (hopeing) could it be heater core or radiator ? As the car did have 2 bottles of stop leak go through it pre water pump and thermostat being fitted , would that cause pressure relief valve to open ?

Heater core no, but radiator yes, if flow isn’t sufficient. You said exhaust can be smelled in the coolant. Buy a test kit. That will tell you if any exhaust from the combustion goes into the coolant

[connorc996]

Originally Posted by feuer

Heater core no, but radiator yes, if flow isn’t sufficient. You said exhaust can be smelled in the coolant. Buy a test kit. That will tell you if any exhaust from the combustion goes into the coolant

Yeah the coolant reservoir stinks of exhaust gasses and it still releases pressure when I open the cap the next day , would water temp run hotter then usual and continue to climb if it was radiator and flow wasn’t sufficient ? I’m just thinking if I put it all back together on Monday when I’ve done the valve cover gasket (waiting for part) and take it for a drive with water temp on dash and water temp stay normal but it still Sprays coolant could I rule out that the radiator isn’t blocked and that it’s most likely internal damage at this point ? Or could it still spray coolant and temp stay fine but it still be a blocked radiator ?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by connorc996

Yeah the coolant reservoir stinks of exhaust gasses and it still releases pressure when I open the cap the next day , would water temp run hotter then usual and continue to climb if it was radiator and flow wasn’t sufficient ? I’m just thinking if I put it all back together on Monday when I’ve done the valve cover gasket (waiting for part) and take it for a drive with water temp on dash and water temp stay normal but it still Sprays coolant could I rule out that the radiator isn’t blocked and that it’s most likely internal damage at this point ? Or could it still spray coolant and temp stay fine but it still be a blocked radiator ?

Valve cover? That won't do anything for the problem currently. Radiators are cheap. I recently got CFS for around $100

[connorc996]

Originally Posted by feuer

Valve cover? That won't do anything for the problem currently. Radiators are cheap. I recently got CFS for around $100

Yes I know but I took the cover off earlier today because I was going to have a look at the head but realised you have to remove the cam shafts, vanos and I’d have had to get the timing kit to do the timing chain ect so didn’t bother untill I’ve delved abit deeper , so obviously I need a new cover gasket , and yes I know they are not expensive but I will not jus buy one pointlessly which is why I asked whether water temp could rule out if it’s a blocked rad ? Surely if the rad was blocked it wouldn’t over pressure the system enough to lift the cap without water temp rocketing ? Which is why I’m thinking if water temp stays fine when I put it back together but it still sprays coolant surely there is something else I.e exhaust gasses causing the pressure in the coolant system to get to high and coming out the cap & at that point I can rule out the radiator and say it’s internally like the head or block ? I mean I’m not a mechanic and have no background in it either I just do all the work on my own cars from watching videos and using forums like this but I am stuck on this one

[gbalthrop]

I don't have a turbo, and have NEVER worked on one, but what about Coolant at each Turbo? Have you investigated issues with coolant passage leaks in either Turbo (AKA Charger).

If it will idle fine, with NO Coolant leakage, and then the Reservoir is over-pressurized when boost occurs, that does NOT sound like a head gasket. Here is the procedure for removing turbo (rear) and I also attach a Coolant Flow Diagram for N54:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ntrol/1MMAkDuZ

A compression Test, and also leakdown/pressure test should give some clues to someone who fully understands the Turbocharger construction and cooling passages. I would NOT tear anything down as far as engine is concerned until properly tested.

George

[connorc996]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

I don't have a turbo, and have NEVER worked on one, but what about Coolant at each Turbo? Have you investigated issues with coolant passage leaks in either Turbo (AKA Charger).

If it will idle fine, with NO Coolant leakage, and then the Reservoir is over-pressurized when boost occurs, that does NOT sound like a head gasket. Here is the procedure for removing turbo (rear) and I also attach a Coolant Flow Diagram for N54:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ntrol/1MMAkDuZ

A compression Test, and also leakdown/pressure test should give some clues to someone who fully understands the Turbocharger construction and cooling passages. I would NOT tear anything down as far as engine is concerned until properly tested.

George

I did think this to start myself but then though that would this only cause the system to be under pressure when holding boost pressure then return back to normal when not on boost? Also If that was the case I couldn’t understand the header tank smelling of exhaust fumes and holding pressure till the next day ? Also the car boosts prefect and doesn’t seem like it had a leak that affects the turbos ? But thanks for you info and help I will defiantly check the turbos tommrow, also could you shed any light with my previous comment to “feuer “ to do with water temps and the rad and ruining things out ?

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by feuer

I wouldn’t. I would either do it myself which I have done or get used engine. I have worked on car that been at Ghassan shop. They are lying, stealing butchers not rebuilders. Stay away.

Good to know 😉

[mweisdorfer]

Originally Posted by connorc996

I did think this to start myself but then though that would this only cause the system to be under pressure when holding boost pressure then return back to normal when not on boost? Also If that was the case I couldn’t understand the header tank smelling of exhaust fumes and holding pressure till the next day ? Also the car boosts prefect and doesn’t seem like it had a leak that affects the turbos ? But thanks for you info and help I will defiantly check the turbos tommrow, also could you shed any light with my previous comment to “feuer “ to do with water temps and the rad and ruining things out ?

The turbos are cooled by oil & coolant. The lines are small in diameter.

[Hayk90]

All this talk and you still haven’t had the car inspected by a professional? You know they have test kits for exhaust gases? And there is leak down tests to check the integrity of the combustion chambers. Stop guessing and go get it tested.

[connorc996]

Originally Posted by Hayk90

All this talk and you still haven’t had the car inspected by a professional? You know they have test kits for exhaust gases? And there is leak down tests to check the integrity of the combustion chambers. Stop guessing and go get it tested.

I did a combustion gasses test today Andy initial thoughts where right it’s defiantly internal not really going to know what it is untill I pull the head ( could be head gasket , cracked block , wrapped head , cracked liner or water jacket ) does anybody know what’s involved when it comes I.e what I need To remove to actually pull the head and what I need to replace I know obviously I need a new head gasket once I’ve pulled the head regardless of wether it’s the gasket or not and I know I need to timing chain tool but other than that I’m not to sure what else is needed , also quite unsure on the vanos units and is there a certain way to remove them rather than just taking them off , could any body share any info on this as cannot find much info on this.