[Emilime75]

Torque wrench prices are hard to swallow, but they're so critical(especially for what you're doing) that you should really consider spending the cash on something that WILL be accurate and keep working for a long time. Also buy them from a reputable source, not Amazon/ebay.

[KnighTT]

Ok, big update.

Yesterday I picked up a used complete longblock with CP pistons. Freshly rebuilt, had about 1200 miles on it, and cyl 6 rod bearing spun. 90k miles on the block before rebuild. $800.

Block is bored out to .20 over. CP forged pistons. All new timing hardware. Freshly rebuilt head.

So, we are going to put the CP pistons on the new Molnar rods on my 6 bolt crankshaft. The head is in perfect condition it looks like. I'm going to tear it down and verify all the valves and seals. Plus everything is going to get cleaned just in case there was any metal debris issues.

In any case, I now have CP pistons and a block ready to go back together.

I picked up a Quinn angle torque wrench 3/8 that is on the way. Oct 1 unfortunately as shipping is delayed. I think I can get the block ready to go by next weekend.

I'm pretty stocked now. I have a spare block now and a complete spare head. Those will be nice to keep around if I ever need to rebuild down the road.

Pictures to come this weekend as I get things cleaned up.

[NoGuru]

That is big news. Very cool, looking forward to pics.

[KnighTT]

Ok, got a good amount done today.

Swapping out the blocks on the stand.



Got the new block all cleaned up and inspected. A few vertical scratches in the bores so pulled out the flex-hone again.




Turns out the head is in excellent condition. Outside of a little dirt and grime, it just needs to be cleaned up. I'm going to do a full teardown, degrease, and just put it back together after I check each valve. I can easily tell all the valves were lapped already during the rebuild.





Getting the CP pistons taken off the old rods and getting the new Molnar rods installed.



That is one sexy box of goodies.



Checked the ring end gap for all of the pistons. Most top rings were .020 and 2nd rings were .024. Pretty decent as far as my research has gone.

I did make the mistake of pulling my engine apart and leaving the crank hub on the crankshaft. So I ordered the holder tool, which I will bolt to my workbench, so I can pull the hub off. I watched a video by Vehicular DIY on YouTube where he informs that there is a new crank hub and grip system that just came out for the N54. I decided to go ahead and invest in that for a bit more peace of mind about the hub slipping.



Next is to clean up the bedplate and then paint the block. I think I have enough after the other block and I like the idea of sealing up that raw aluminum so it will be easier to clean down the road.

I'll have to wait for a bunch of parts to come in this week. Head gasket is on the way as well as head bolts. I should have all I need to get the bulk of the block back together over the next week. I think the only thing I don't have, come to think of it, is the cam lock tool.

I am putting my 6 bolt crank in this block. I can't think of a reason to pay to get the 8 bolt crank ground down and then order a new set of rod bearings for that. My 6 bolt is in perfect condition. Even if there are a few less options in flywheels for the 6 bolt.

[NoGuru]

Something about shiny new parts that makes me go oooh ahhh.

[feuer]

KnighTT I suggest you not use the oem aluminum bolts to keep the engine on the stand. When fully assembled will get heavy and might snap them. Because how you need to arrange the tabs not all bolts carry equal weight. Bottom passenger has broke off on me once now I use subframe bolts (from VW/Audi I think)

[KnighTT]

Good point. I can't keep them on at that length much longer anyways. When I go to put the flywheel back on there will be a much larger gap between the stand and the engine. I'll have to find some new steel bolts for that.

Starting to realize the benefit of those side mounted engine stands I've seen.

[KnighTT]

Checking in on a few orders from FCP Euro and got curious about my past orders.

Just found out half of the gaskets I need to replace when I put it all back together I had purchased in the past from FCP. WOOT.

Got to love that lifetime replacement.

[KnighTT]

By a stroke of pure dumb luck, I was trolling around eBay for parts I am looking for and came across a used, never used, M3 rep front bumper and the guy happened to be just down the road from me. Made a deal for $200 and went and picked it up.



I'm going with the M3 rep bumper due to the nice open front grill for intercooler flow and the two functional side scoops for oil coolers. Plus, they are only about $315 if I ever have to replace it after a scrappy track weekend.

It is in perfect condition and has all the parts.

Anyways, onto the next steps.

This may seem familiar and that is because it is. Painting the second block just as I did the first. Duplicolor cast iron btw. Again, I just want to keep the raw aluminum clean in the future and a coating will help with that. Plus, it looks nice.






Got the cam ledges off. It is a bit dirty from sitting in the shop for a while. I did uncover a few things that we will need to address.

- Some of the tappets need swapped. A few are squishy. I have an entire other head so that's easy.
- One of the cam ledges has the cam seal grooves dug in. Luckily the ledge from my other head is in great condition. New seals on the way.





More parts on the way. I got the crank hub off the crank with some trickery. Some Driven break in oil on the way.

New torque wrench arrives tomorrow. Took forever to get here. I still need to paint the bed plate tonight. Then.....we can start to get things put back together.

[KnighTT]

Oh yeah....

I got a deal on a VTT cast valve cover and PCV system. All I need to do is source a dual catch can to plug it into. Pictures to come when it arrives.

[KnighTT]

Got a lot done over the weekend.

First of all, an interesting note, there is some differences in an 08 N54 block vs a 2010 N54 block.(I did not know...I wonder what else was revised)

Take a look at the bedplate sealant track in an 08 vs a 2010.

2008 - The passages come up just in front of the rear main seal. This way you can see them come out and then seal with primer.


2010 - They created a different path so that the sealant hits the rear main seal(doesn't help sealing) and then comes out the back of the block. I would suppose this is so you can actually see the sealant finish its run through the track when finished.



Also - Between the cylinders on a 2010 there is a line groove machined between each cylinder sleeve.

2010



2008 - No grooves.

[KnighTT]

Got the head stripped down.

- Only 7 tappets need replaced. Squishy.
- All the valves were lapped during the previous rebuild so I'll just have to do a light cleanup and check each seal.
- Valve seals will be replaced. No reason to think they are perfect.
- All the valve guides are smooth and I didn't feel any play.
- Both vanos filters were flawless. I'll replace the seals.
- All rockers are perfect.
- One of the cam ledges is shot but I had a spare that is in great condition.
- I'm going to use the 2008 camshafts as they are cast instead of hydroformed. Oh, and they have 100k less miles on them.



I was cleaning up the garage and storing spare parts I wont be needing. I found this under the car waiting for the rebuild. Man this thing needs cleaned. 169k miles. Reminded me that I need to get a magnetic drain plug.

[KnighTT]

Side note. Ordered the head PCV plug kit from VTT. The guy I bought the VTT valve cover kit from must have not ordered it. I'll be going ext PCV and a dual catch can setup right off the bat.

Onwards, I got the crank back in the car over the weekend while I patiently waited for my new torque wrench to arrive. I had to go down to Harbor Freight and buy it in person as I got tired of waiting for it(2 weeks). I'll just return the one that comes in the mail.

BTW...after using a digital torque wrench for 5 minutes I'll never go back. Especially with these angle torques. Great wrench.









After this my wrench arrived and I was able to get the main bolts torqued and the bedplate bolts.

I had to tear apart all of my assembled pistons and rods as I used some cheap Dremel wire brush from Amazon, to clean something, and 90% of the little bristles flew off like confetti all over my work area. So...I realized that they got all over my pistons stuck in the assembly lube. So those got torn apart and thoroughly cleaned.

I got two pistons in the engine last night. BTW, using Driven BR40 break in oil. Too many reviews on how great it is and Total Seal did a report on a bunch of break in oils and this one seems to be in the top three.

I am happy to report that turning the crank, even with 2 pistons in, is just buttery smooth. Makes me happy.

[NoGuru]

Nice, keep the pics coming!

[Emilime75]

Wonder if that groove between each cylinder is a control groove. Kinda like they do in concrete to help control the area and direction of a crack.

[KnighTT]

I wonder as well. It is just deep enough to allow coolant to pass from one side to the other under the head gasket(which doesn't sound like a good idea). Maybe just to keep the pressure equalized from side to side in the coolant jackets that surround the cylinders?

Just guesswork really. I will admit though that when building the bottom end, I like that the new block does NOT have a groove dug in-between each. IDK. I look at that groove and think failure crack.

[NoGuru]

Originally Posted by Emilime75

Wonder if that groove between each cylinder is a control groove. Kinda like they do in concrete to help control the area and direction of a crack.

In Concrete it's called an control joint, I was a Concrete Forman for 15 years before switching to IT over 10 years ago

I thought the same thing at first but I see no real gains from doing that.

[KnighTT]

Cranks, rods, and pistons are done.





This is the Quinn torque wrench I was talking about. Great design, texture, and feel when you use it. I think the size is perfect. I think I paid $127 after the 20% HF coupon.




I got the head back up on the bench and looked it over. I would not be surprised if the valve guides are new. The valve seats look great. I'll just test and refresh any that don't feel perfect. First thing is to clean the whole head back down to 100% gunk free and then we can get started putting it back together. I'll get that started in the next few days.

Now I'm just waiting for the FCP orders to come in so I can finish the bottom end.

[KnighTT]

The rest of my FCP orders come in today. Head work this weekend. Need beer.....

Hey, on to the candy.



I am pretty impressed with the weight and quality. Looks great. I honestly don't recommend these things for the cost. I got one basically unused for a good price and I'm a whore....

They sent me stickers!!

[Emilime75]

BS, after thousands of dollars spent, I haven't gotten stickers.

[KnighTT]

There we go.



So...the Loctite bedplate sealant says "Use By End 07/19". That's not good right?

[KnighTT]

Started and finished the intake side valve lapping last night. I ordered a two part valve lapping compound knowing that this head had already had a valve job recently. After seeing how good the valves were I figured just a fine grit lapping would get the seal surface back down to perfect pretty quickly. That turned out to be correct.








I had a few people comment about why I'm not using a drill method. I even purchased a special valve lapping tool for the drill the spins counter and clockwise automatically. Super slick. Never even used it. There is something I feel you need to do manually when lapping valves when you aren't in a machine shop. The tactile feel and sound of doing it by hand lets you know when you are done. It is very satisfying. That being said, I am sure when your valves need a lot of work, doing them by hand probably sucks. Especially on something like a V8.

Another FCP order coming in today. Cam bolts and valve seals I think. I'll try to get the valves done this week and then get the valves and springs back in the head. Maybe we'll even get the head back on the block in the next week.

I still have some cleanup to do with the cams and cam ledges. I need to soak one of the cam ledges and it has some oil baked into the recesses on the top.

I need to be honest here....I have had a deep desire to put this N54 build into an E86 this week. I love that car so much....I keep telling myself that it has a N52 and a N54 swap would not be a nightmare but....these projects have to end someday so I can actually DRIVE this thing again.