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      07-04-2018, 01:25 PM   #199
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Many folks in this thread seem to be very confused about what transmission is in their vehicle...

For the 328i/xi people: you most likely have the GM 6L45R, not the ZF box found in the 325/330. Make sure to double-check using your VIN or visual inspection prior to ordering anything.

If you've got the GM trans and are looking for an excellent write-up on installing a Zip Kit, check out this post by labrador . It was helpful beyond description when I did this work myself.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PCFree50 View Post
So my ex sells our young daughter her husband's 2002 330xi and says there is nothing wrong with it.
Well, after sitting for three years, the e-brake was locked up so we had it drug up on a flatbed and dropped off at my place. Rear brakes redone and I try to start it. Would barely run till it warmed up. Heard air leaks and found the secondary air pump hose blown out and the mass airflow tube cracked. Got those replaced and plugged in the scanner. First code P1508 Speed control valve Opening, solenoid control open circuit. Next is P0056 - Heater Control Circuit Bank 2, Sensor 2. Next is P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input. Finally, P1504 Idle Speed control valve closing Solenoid Control Open Circuit.
I take it down the road and realize the speedometer doesn't work and of course the MPG gauge also doesn't. Then there is a "sprocket" image with an exclamation point in it showing next to the shift indicator and in the center, there is a counterclockwise arrow circle with a triangle and an exclamation point in that. Brake, ABS and what I assume is the wear sensor lights are on. Service Engine Soon and "EML" lights are on. I slow down to turn around and hear the CV joints clicking and as I slow to a stop, the hard downshift from 3 to 2 then a slightly less jerk from 2 to 1...which led me here.
From reading the posts, before I drop $700-800 on tranny solenoids and other parts, I noticed some say it could be other issues not telling the ECM how hard I am driving?
Needless to say, it doesn't seem my ex's husband was very forthcoming with this car's issues (he is a salesman).
Any guidance would be most appreciative. I love the BMW's and had a '89 535i back in the day...best car I ever owned!
I'm sorry to hear of your misfortune. As a former salesman I can assure you that just like people from any walk of life, profession, or industry, there are both honest and dishonest ones. I'm not personally offended, but I just find it odd when people imply or outright state their belief that all salespeople, mechanics, etc are inherently dishonest, as if somehow there is a direct connection between their work and their moral standard. If this is one's experience, you've been giving your business to the wrong people. I also can't help but wonder why you'd take your ex's husband at his word that a 16-year-old BMW is problem-free.

But I digress.

Your 2002 330 does not have either the ZF or GM transmissions that are being discussed in this thread. You have the GM 5L40E.
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      07-04-2018, 04:49 PM   #200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCFree50 View Post
So my ex sells our young daughter her husband's 2002 330xi and says there is nothing wrong with it.
Well, after sitting for three years, the e-brake was locked up so we had it drug up on a flatbed and dropped off at my place. Rear brakes redone and I try to start it. Would barely run till it warmed up. Heard air leaks and found the secondary air pump hose blown out and the mass airflow tube cracked. Got those replaced and plugged in the scanner. First code P1508 Speed control valve Opening, solenoid control open circuit. Next is P0056 - Heater Control Circuit Bank 2, Sensor 2. Next is P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input. Finally, P1504 Idle Speed control valve closing Solenoid Control Open Circuit.
I take it down the road and realize the speedometer doesn't work and of course the MPG gauge also doesn't. Then there is a "sprocket" image with an exclamation point in it showing next to the shift indicator and in the center, there is a counterclockwise arrow circle with a triangle and an exclamation point in that. Brake, ABS and what I assume is the wear sensor lights are on. Service Engine Soon and "EML" lights are on. I slow down to turn around and hear the CV joints clicking and as I slow to a stop, the hard downshift from 3 to 2 then a slightly less jerk from 2 to 1...which led me here.
From reading the posts, before I drop $700-800 on tranny solenoids and other parts, I noticed some say it could be other issues not telling the ECM how hard I am driving?
Needless to say, it doesn't seem my ex's husband was very forthcoming with this car's issues (he is a salesman).
Any guidance would be most appreciative. I love the BMW's and had a '89 535i back in the day...best car I ever owned!
If the car had been sitting for a while, the battery may be bad. I've had some really weird electrical problems that were mysteriously solved by replacing a battery going bad. Not saying that is the problem here, or related to the shifting, but, that might be a good place to start regardless.
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      07-04-2018, 04:57 PM   #201
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I have been driving it around town on a daily basis hoping that any issues from sitting will "flush" themselves out. The battery seems to be holding a charge and starting every time. I don't want to take it too far till I replace the CV axle (part just arrived yesterday) as I don't want it to fail on the road. What is the sprocket image next to the shift indicator or the circle arrow with the triangle in the center of the display? EML?
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      07-04-2018, 04:59 PM   #202
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I know a stite where I go for my Saab that breaks down the VIN into a build list for the car. Does any such animal exist for the BMW VIN?
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      07-04-2018, 05:12 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCFree50 View Post
I have been driving it around town on a daily basis hoping that any issues from sitting will "flush" themselves out. The battery seems to be holding a charge and starting every time. I don't want to take it too far till I replace the CV axle (part just arrived yesterday) as I don't want it to fail on the road. What is the sprocket image next to the shift indicator or the circle arrow with the triangle in the center of the display? EML?
Just because the car starts every time does not mean the battery is good. I've always had to replace my batteries well before the point that it would no longer start the car. One tell-tale sign with my car, is that my AC will stop working when my battery is going bad. Get the battery load tested. Mine is rated at 95CCA; when it load tests near or below 70CCA, the car starts to have problems. The car will still start and run, but it has issues. Your local auto parts store should load test for free.

The sprocket image indicates a transmission problem. There should be a diagnostic code associated with it if you hook up ISTA or some other BMW specific software to read it. The triangle with a counter clockwise circle is telling you there is a problem with the Stability Control / Traction Control. Again, there is likely a diagnostic code associated with it.

All the lights on your dash could be resulting from a weak battery...maybe.
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      07-04-2018, 06:33 PM   #204
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No insult on the sales position as I use to be a sales trainer...I just referred to him offering a "sales" job...after all, I am the "ex"
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      07-04-2018, 06:43 PM   #205
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Any recommendations on software and adapter?
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      07-04-2018, 07:08 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCFree50 View Post
I know a stite where I go for my Saab that breaks down the VIN into a build list for the car. Does any such animal exist for the BMW VIN?
https://www.bmwvin.com/
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      07-04-2018, 07:12 PM   #207
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PCFree50 View Post
Any recommendations on software and adapter?
Really depends on what you are looking to do. Just pull codes and reset service? Or, full service capabilities, including coding and programming?

http://bavariantechnic.com/ for basic code reading, clearing, service reset, and very basic coding.

ISTA is great for dealer-level access, troubleshooting and maintenance.

There is an assortment of coding and programming software available as well, which can be found in the coding sections of this forum.
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      07-04-2018, 10:30 PM   #208
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BMWVIN.com lists the AT as an S205A option which I can't seem to cross over to anything
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      07-04-2018, 10:42 PM   #209
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How do I get to the E46 forum?
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      09-09-2018, 10:15 PM   #210
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Guys I have a set of 7 ZF solenoids that are brand new in box. My dad got them for his 2006 325i but sold the car before fixing it. He paid $395 (have invoice) at CTSC a few years ago but it looks like the price came down some since. Shoot me an offer via PMs I rarely go on here anymore.
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      11-15-2018, 01:56 PM   #211
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Yes, many months later! I have a 2004 e60 525i (140,000 miles) that is in flawless condition, except it is now doing harsh downshifts, 2 to 1 (or 3 to 2) when coming to a stop. Also, just standing still, food on brake, in sport mode, shifting from 1 to 2 and back creates quite a jolt.

I had the shop pull the pan, replace the filter, refill (level was low according to them) and reset the transmission. For $1400, they flatly said, "this will take care of that problem." Well, it didn't.

Forward about a month, they would credit me toward a rebuild, or send me to a shop to have a rebuild. After reading this post, (thanks, zigsman!) I am going to go the solenoid route and mechatronix sleeve replacement to see if it corrects the problem. I also notice on the site they are selling the solenoid kid for under $300 now. I am having a local shop do the work when they can find the time, but will try to let all know how it goes. Thanks for letting the e60 guy post. If there are any words of encouragement out there they "yes, KNKLHEAD, this will correct your problem!" I would appreciate it.
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      11-15-2018, 03:49 PM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KNKLHEAD View Post
Yes, many months later! I have a 2004 e60 525i (140,000 miles) that is in flawless condition, except it is now doing harsh downshifts, 2 to 1 (or 3 to 2) when coming to a stop. Also, just standing still, food on brake, in sport mode, shifting from 1 to 2 and back creates quite a jolt.

I had the shop pull the pan, replace the filter, refill (level was low according to them) and reset the transmission. For $1400, they flatly said, "this will take care of that problem." Well, it didn't.

Forward about a month, they would credit me toward a rebuild, or send me to a shop to have a rebuild. After reading this post, (thanks, zigsman!) I am going to go the solenoid route and mechatronix sleeve replacement to see if it corrects the problem. I also notice on the site they are selling the solenoid kid for under $300 now. I am having a local shop do the work when they can find the time, but will try to let all know how it goes. Thanks for letting the e60 guy post. If there are any words of encouragement out there they "yes, KNKLHEAD, this will correct your problem!" I would appreciate it.
$1400 to change the oil? Why

Did they change the rectangular seal on the mechatronics unit?

Also resetting transmission adaptations after a fresh oil change is not recommended unless you can carry out correct adaptation procedure.
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      11-16-2018, 08:51 AM   #213
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It was $1400 to change the pan and the filter and top off with oil. Yes, Expensive. They realize they owe me $1400.

They did not change the mechatronics sleeve -- or at least they didn't note it.

I hope to follow up here when I can get the sleeve changed and the solenoids.
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      11-26-2018, 12:47 PM   #214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcastles View Post
Hi

I just wanted to come full circle on this post I started a few weeks ago. As suggested, I installed ISTA and read the pressures and fill times and sent to ZF. They responded very quickly, unfortunately it is bad news for me. Please see below

My Question to ZF:

I have a BMW 300xi with 110k miles. I am having an issue with delayed 2 - 1 downshift. I changed the ZF fluid, filter, internal gaskets, new solenoids and reset adaptations. The problem is still there but only when the fluid is hot, driving for at least 15 min. When cold, shifts perfectly and progressively gets worse as it warms up. I have listed the pressures and fill times for your review. I have driven about 150 mi since adaptations were reset. Is it unusual that clutch A and D are still zero? Would a valve body rebuild with a Zip kit solve the issue? Filling pressure and rapid filling time Clutch A: 0.00 mbar, 0.00 msec Clutch B: -274.0, 1.00 Clutch C: -300.0, -15.00 Clutch D: 0.00, 0.00 Clutch E: -28.0, 0.00

ZF response:

The adaption charge pressures look good. I believe you have a worn bushing. There are several shafts with brass or aluminum bushings, which wear over time. Once the transmission warms up, there is some leakage between a shaft and bushing. You typically won't be able to visually check them, because they all look good. There is a chance that you have a leak in the control unit, but bushing leaks are very common.

Eriksson Industries sells the bushing kits, Sonnax kits and ZF mechatronics.
Just wanted to follow-up on my post from a few months ago, hoping it will help others.

I finally was able to pull the valve body on my 2006, 330xi and install a Sonnax Zip kit. It is imperative to get the number from the separator plate since the kits are specific. Mine was A052/B052 (Sonnax Part No. ZF6-6R60-ZIP). I purchased the separator plate and Zip kit off of ebay.

There are some very good videos describing the details of the valve body on the ZF 6HP19. Not difficult but very time consuming and attention to detail otherwise you will forget where the check balls, springs, etc go. The most difficult thing was removing the old regulator valves from the valve body since they are very tight tolerances. The Zip kit contains exact replacements but contain an O ring to seal. It also contains the new style accumulators that have a spring for tight sealing rather than rubber, which wears out on the OEM.

The only obvious things I found were the accumulators were worn out and the D clutch regulator valves were loose fitting compared to the others. Pulled out with no effort.

Bottom line, this solved my 2-1 hard/delayed downshift. I did reset the adaptions and the transmission shifts perfectly through all gears and no delay when the fluid gets hot. I have driven about 100 mi so far and still good.
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      11-26-2018, 01:25 PM   #215
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Nice, thanks for following up!
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      11-27-2018, 10:20 AM   #216
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Thanks for the info.

Glad you resolved it.
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      11-27-2018, 04:10 PM   #217
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What fluid are you running? My car ONLY likes ZF lifeguard 6. Twice I've had a shop put in different fluid (and only a few quarts) which caused horrible shifting and odd behavior. Had it refilled with ZF lifeguard 6 and at 166k miles it drives and shifts like a brand new car.
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      11-29-2018, 12:32 PM   #218
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Only ZF Lifeguard. I wouldn't put anything but OEM in that transmission. The Zip kit rebuild made the difference, in my case.
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      12-18-2018, 04:48 PM   #219
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SUCCESS!

Hey, guys, while others tried other stuff, here's a post I made in another forum. I am not an e90 owner, don't tell anyone!

Hi, everyone. Paying it forward!


I get so much info here, I wanted to go over my troubles with my beloved 525i with 140,000 miles on it. It rides as nice and any new car I have test driven, bu t who wants a new car payment?


The issue was, while coming to a normal stop, regular p, fooon brake pedal, the car would jerk hard when downshifiting, I am guessing gears 3-2 and 2-1. It was driving me nuts. It felt as if someone might be hitting me from the back end and it was very noticeable. t also drove me crazy that mechanics would say, "I think that's normal." ARGH. I might also note when backing out of my garage, slight downhill, I had to press the brakes much harder than I thought I should, not sure if that's related.


I took my car to an Auth'd BMW dealership in the State of NY (for now I will not say the dealership's name, as they've been very understanding. More on that later.) They said, no problem, we can fix that by dropping the pan, ensuring fluid levels are right and by definition, putting in a new filter (part of the pan?) and Transmission reset. I was specific when I asked (for this 2004 with 140,000 miles) "will this correct the problem?" Thinking, maybe I have to trade it in. Cheerfully the client specialist said, "Yes, this will work." Sadly, same issue the instant I got the car back. I took the head mechanic for a ride and he did acknowledge the problem. The services manager said he'd try to find me a deal on a third party that could rebuild my transmission. He suggested he'd offset further costs by $1400. We'll see. That's where forums like this are so valuable. I did a bunch of research on this issue and found quite a bit. This doesn't work, that doesn't work, this doesn't work -- but I found lengthy posts about solenoids and sleeves that looked promising.

Fast forward. After reading tons and tons of info on my specific transmission (I think it's a ZF GA6HP19z.) I decided to buy a solenoid kit and mechatronics adapter from CTSC from Klaus, who was awesome. (I have no relationship to Klaus or this company except one-time happy customer,.)

https://www.thectsc.com/products/sol...ft-36-115.html
and
https://www.thectsc.com/products/mec...p21-44-45.html.,

I asked around town and found a great (albeit extremely busy!) transmission shop called Buchholtz Transmission. Mark the owner is the nicest, most honest guy ever, and great/knowledgeable guys in the shop,. Any way, I told him we were in this together, I wanted to have him install these two PNs, I'll take the chance, but needed to wait quite a while for him to fit me in. (Understandable -- these guys have unlimited work!)

He finished my car this afternoon. Wow. No jerk,!!!! Smooth as silk! Downshifts are unnoticeable coming to a stop (the way they should be!). I hugged my wife when I got home, told her I now don't want to buy a new car (that she gave me the thumbs up to do!) Now, it could be new fluids, the reset, the solenoids or the mechatronics sleeve -- but this combination seemed to do the trick. And yes, could there be a further issue? Sure! But at least we know the transmission/hardware is fine! I hope this helps someone else out there. I found this info on an e39 post in another forum. (Mark, you are a great guy and the world is better because of you.)

"
So: Before you spend $5000 on a new transmission or a rebuild, this may work for you, too. I am looking for a credit or compensation from the Auth'd BMW shop for my $1400. They've been very good to me and I am confident they will do the right thing and possibly credit me.


I hope it helps others.

"The best car on the road? One that's paid for." - free advice
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      12-18-2018, 04:50 PM   #220
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By the way, I think it was user Zigsman and Demas that helped me significantly!
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