[MartinWake]

Hey guys today we just finished putting my engine back together, my new engine because my last one had rod knock after a OFHG change, anyways I think this engine is knocking too it sounds different and my mechanics didnt hear it in person but they say most likely it could be spark knock or pre detonation but to me it sounds like rod knock.

The car currently has cam shaft sensor error, is in limp mode, does not have all the nuts holding down the intake manifold maybe has some more bad sensors its a mystery car at this point and one thing too under 2k rpm its backfiring like crazy as if I had MHD turned all the way up and it does not have a tune, before I put the rest of 93 in the tank and octane booster the fuel in the tank is more then 1 year old so thats why the mechanics say it could be spark knock, it has new spark plugs but the last two injectors are disgusting.

So please tell me what you guys think I am gonna put the old video of the first engine and then the new engine thanks guys one more thing I can only hear knock over 3k rpm

First engine (rod knock): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m45...ew?usp=sharing



this engine:

[MartinWake]

Hey guys a little edit I just put the car inside the garage and when it is cold I dont hear that sound at all

[feuer]

Originally Posted by MartinWake

Hey guys a little edit I just put the car inside the garage and when it is cold I dont hear that sound at all

That is because the oil is thicker, more dense, when cold and make more pressure between the crank and rods. I’m so sorry Martin! Was this engine new new or you got it used? If this just started change just the rod bearings.

Other engine fail after OFHG replacement. This one also had that done. I remember you had to resurface the head because. N55 has oil pump electronically controlled. Not sure how exactly it work but I think it has something with these engines failing after OFHG replacement.

Some say engine need to be primed with oil. I have done many OFHG on n54 and n55 and have not had and issue and just recently started priming the engines with oil after repairs.

I honestly feel very bad for your misfortune and I know we are far apart but if you get me the car here I will swap those bearings for almost free of charge.

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by feuer

That is because the oil is thicker, more dense, when cold and make more pressure between the crank and rods. I’m so sorry Martin! Was this engine new new or you got it used? If this just started change just the rod bearings.

Other engine fail after OFHG replacement. This one also had that done. I remember you had to resurface the head because. N55 has oil pump electronically controlled. Not sure how exactly it work but I think it has something with these engines failing after OFHG replacement.

Some say engine need to be primed with oil. I have done many OFHG on n54 and n55 and have not had and issue and just recently started priming the engines with oil after repairs.

I honestly feel very bad for your misfortune and I know we are far apart but if you get me the car here I will swap those bearings for almost free of charge.

Hey bro thanks for the reply I am very sad tbh, I have been waiting more then a year to use this car and now the new engine has knock, we did change the OFHG but we primed it so I dont understand why it would knock. The engine was used from another car but has around the same miles as my old engine ~65k

At this point I think my only option is to sell it for dirt cheap or change the rods. I really don't want to sell it since I have bought so many new parts for it thinking it was gonna be good for me to enjoy, I even have a set of rod bearings in my garage I bought a while back for my old engine, Do you think if I catch the knock fast enough it can be fixed with a rod bearing change?

I highly appreciate your offer and tbh I want to do it because I know all the mechanics here are already itching to charge me an arm and a leg and quite frankly I have been paying it all since I really did think this was gonna be the last push for me to finally enjoy this car. If you can do me that huge favor I can try and figure something out, thank you.

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by feuer

That is because the oil is thicker, more dense, when cold and make more pressure between the crank and rods. I’m so sorry Martin! Was this engine new new or you got it used? If this just started change just the rod bearings.

Other engine fail after OFHG replacement. This one also had that done. I remember you had to resurface the head because. N55 has oil pump electronically controlled. Not sure how exactly it work but I think it has something with these engines failing after OFHG replacement.

Some say engine need to be primed with oil. I have done many OFHG on n54 and n55 and have not had and issue and just recently started priming the engines with oil after repairs.

I honestly feel very bad for your misfortune and I know we are far apart but if you get me the car here I will swap those bearings for almost free of charge.

Hey I just noticed you live in Chicago and that is pretty far from me, I am thinking of changing the rod bearings myself I have quite a lot of tools and I can buy more if I need what would you say is the most difficult part of a job like that?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by MartinWake

Hey I just noticed you live in Chicago and that is pretty far from me, I am thinking of changing the rod bearings myself I have quite a lot of tools and I can buy more if I need what would you say is the most difficult part of a job like that?

Job is easy. At least to me. I have done quite few. If you catch it early and don’t run the engine a lot it should be ok. The crank is much stronger than the bearings. The hardest part is the torque to yield sequence, 70 degrees + 70 degrees that require angle torque wrench. Get good quality socket because you don’t want the socket to jump on the rod cap bolt. They are single use and need to be oiled prior install. Also is important to keep it clean.

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by feuer

Job is easy. At least to me. I have done quite few. If you catch it early and don’t run the engine a lot it should be ok. The crank is much stronger than the bearings. The hardest part is the torque to yield sequence, 70 degrees + 70 degrees that require angle torque wrench. Get good quality socket because you don’t want the socket to jump on the rod cap bolt. They are single use and need to be oiled prior install. Also is important to keep it clean.

I believe this problem is very early on as I remember my old engine I ran it alot when it started knocking this engine I just heard it yesterday and I stopped using it, do you think I can tackle the job with the correct tools?

[feuer]

Originally Posted by MartinWake

I believe this problem is very early on as I remember my old engine I ran it alot when it started knocking this engine I just heard it yesterday and I stopped using it, do you think I can tackle the job with the correct tools?

I don’t know your skills but isn’t hard with proper tools

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by feuer

I don’t know your skills but isn’t hard with proper tools

A friend said he is willing to help me and he has does auto to manual swaps and other stuff do you think you can please list the stuff I would need so I can go buy them I would really appreciate it

[feuer]

Originally Posted by MartinWake

A friend said he is willing to help me and he has does auto to manual swaps and other stuff do you think you can please list the stuff I would need so I can go buy them I would really appreciate it

You will need:
-oil pan gasket and new bolts
-oil pump bolts
-rod cap bolts
-assembly lube
-bunch of inverted torx socket
-just regular torx for the oil pump sprocket
-skinny but strong screw driver to use to lock the sprocket with
-angle torque wrench
-small torque wrench 1/4. For the small bolts
-goose neck plies
-engine support
-few brake cleaner cans
- print out of the torque specs.

Oil pan, oil pump and al of those expect the rod bolts require either 90• or 180• so no need for angle torque wrench

The rod bolts are 70• plus 70• and you need angle torque wrench. Dip them in oil before you drive them in. Same oil that you use in the engine.

In order that I do it:

Remove the belt
Remove the control arms, sway bar links and tie rods from the spindle (not from the subframe)
Remove the steering rack form the subframe but don’t disconnect the steering shaft link
Swing the longer end ( passinger) back and towards under driver seat and use bungee to secure it
Drop the subframe.
Remove the oil steering pump from oil pan and use bungee to keep it away from oil oil pan
Drop oil pan. Then oil tube. Then oil splash plate. Then pump sprocket.
Remove two small torx bolts from the plate and pry it out from the pump
(these little bolts are easy to break so be careful)
(also the replacement bolts aren’t same!)
One is shorter ( is only one short in the bag)
The oil pump housing pump will tell you which go where.
If you put the longer (has a tip that isn’t treaded) into the location of where short need to go it will bottom out and snap when you torque it

Loosen up all rod bolts but don’t remove all the caps. Remove just 1 or 6 depending where you want to start.

Insert the straw of the brake cleaner can into the holes of the crank. Because the caps are loose if any debris will be able to wash away.

Use long goose neck pliers to push up then away and oil down the rod to do the upper rod bearing.

Make sure all your tools are clean and use assembly lube. Don’t use towers or rags. Use blue paper towels meant for auto repair clean up.

If you need assistance as you go we can FaceTime or Viber I guess.

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by feuer

You will need:
-oil pan gasket and new bolts
-oil pump bolts
-rod cap bolts
-assembly lube
-bunch of inverted torx socket
-just regular torx for the oil pump sprocket
-skinny but strong screw driver to use to lock the sprocket with
-angle torque wrench
-small torque wrench 1/4. For the small bolts
-goose neck plies
-engine support
-few brake cleaner cans
- print out of the torque specs.

Oil pan, oil pump and al of those expect the rod bolts require either 90• or 180• so no need for angle torque wrench

The rod bolts are 70• plus 70• and you need angle torque wrench. Dip them in oil before you drive them in. Same oil that you use in the engine.

In order that I do it:

Remove the belt
Remove the control arms, sway bar links and tie rods from the spindle (not from the subframe)
Remove the steering rack form the subframe but don’t disconnect the steering shaft link
Swing the longer end ( passinger) back and towards under driver seat and use bungee to secure it
Drop the subframe.
Remove the oil steering pump from oil pan and use bungee to keep it away from oil oil pan
Drop oil pan. Then oil tube. Then oil splash plate. Then pump sprocket.
Remove two small torx bolts from the plate and pry it out from the pump
(these little bolts are easy to break so be careful)
(also the replacement bolts aren’t same!)
One is shorter ( is only one short in the bag)
The oil pump housing pump will tell you which go where.
If you put the longer (has a tip that isn’t treaded) into the location of where short need to go it will bottom out and snap when you torque it

Loosen up all rod bolts but don’t remove all the caps. Remove just 1 or 6 depending where you want to start.

Insert the straw of the brake cleaner can into the holes of the crank. Because the caps are loose if any debris will be able to wash away.

Use long goose neck pliers to push up then away and oil down the rod to do the upper rod bearing.

Make sure all your tools are clean and use assembly lube. Don’t use towers or rags. Use blue paper towels meant for auto repair clean up.

If you need assistance as you go we can FaceTime or Viber I guess.

Wow thank you bro I will start studying the process and on Monday I will order everything I need, today I went a picked up a jack and jack stands and got under the car I looked around to familiarize myself with it, A few people are doubting me but most are supportive, lol this might sound funny but I guess it really is my first big job. Again thank you for this info!

[Dcage]

mine sounds the same

Originally Posted by MartinWake

Hey guys today we just finished putting my engine back together, my new engine because my last one had rod knock after a OFHG change, anyways I think this engine is knocking too it sounds different and my mechanics didnt hear it in person but they say most likely it could be spark knock or pre detonation but to me it sounds like rod knock.

The car currently has cam shaft sensor error, is in limp mode, does not have all the nuts holding down the intake manifold maybe has some more bad sensors its a mystery car at this point and one thing too under 2k rpm its backfiring like crazy as if I had MHD turned all the way up and it does not have a tune, before I put the rest of 93 in the tank and octane booster the fuel in the tank is more then 1 year old so thats why the mechanics say it could be spark knock, it has new spark plugs but the last two injectors are disgusting.

So please tell me what you guys think I am gonna put the old video of the first engine and then the new engine thanks guys one more thing I can only hear knock over 3k rpm

First engine (rod knock): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1m45...ew?usp=sharing



this engine:

[houtan]

Originally Posted by MartinWake

Wow thank you bro I will start studying the process and on Monday I will order everything I need, today I went a picked up a jack and jack stands and got under the car I looked around to familiarize myself with it, A few people are doubting me but most are supportive, lol this might sound funny but I guess it really is my first big job. Again thank you for this info!

Any updates?

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by houtan

Any updates?

I sold the car. I was motivated to change the bearings but my mechanic had done it before when my first engine seized and I knew what was coming, two weeks of fun then knocking again. When you try to fix something over and over and over and it just does not work I think its best to leave it. No matter how much money I dumped into this thing it never ran right it always had something.

[E92William]

If you went through the trouble of getting another engine put in you should have replaced the bearings on it before putting it in the car tbh it must have had some wear already because there's no way it would spin that quick. But still it's pretty shitty that the N55 even has this problem to begin with when you can run an n52/54 on olive oil and it'll be fine.

[MartinWake]

Originally Posted by E92William

If you went through the trouble of getting another engine put in you should have replaced the bearings on it before putting it in the car tbh it must have had some wear already because there's no way it would spin that quick. But still it's pretty shitty that the N55 even has this problem to begin with when you can run an n52/54 on olive oil and it'll be fine.

I was 18 bro I put so much money into this car and the story of the "new engine" is a long one, ended with me suing the mechanic, he had it for 10 months there

and how was I supposed to know the next engine I got was gonna have rod problems too, its just insane

[E92William]

10 months? And I thought a mechanic having my n54 for a month there because it ate a belt was bad. I guess nobody expects the damn thing to just spin a rod bearing again. I'd stick with N54, this is an inexcusable problem for an engine with the same bottom end clearances as other engines that don't have these issues