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      09-29-2013, 12:06 AM   #1
NGEE
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Weekend brake job - questions

So I finally put the car up on jacks to tackle the brakes. Installed cross-drilled, slotted rotors and new pads. I have a couple of questions:


- Is it necessary to use a special tool for centering the rotors? I just eyeballed it.

- I didn't realize until after the install that the rotors are labeled "left" and "right" (must be a slotted-rotor thing?). So I had a 50-50 chance of getting it right. Of course, I lost. But at least I was consistently wrong - front and rear are both reversed. Does it matter? I've seen various youtube DIY videos and they show it both ways - slots going this way "/", and slots going that way "\". As long as they are consistent (purely for aesthetics) it seems like it should be fine.

- The right rear caliper needs to be replaced because the bleeder valve is broken off (I assume the dealer did this) . Do I need to clamp off the brake line before I remove it?

thanks!
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Last edited by NGEE; 09-29-2013 at 12:12 AM.
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      09-29-2013, 02:08 AM   #2
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if you are just driving your car direction of vents/holes/slots wont matter very much...

track or very aggressive braking/mountain driving might become an issue. personally, I would just wait until I was in there again... winter is around the corner... change them at snow tire install.

if they are cheaper rotors(like mine), then the internal vents will not be directional vanes anyways, and they would be the ones that matter most.

I have thought about this issue with my drilled rotors and haven't even got around to checking if they are the correct direction(have had my wheels off numerous times...). I just don't think it is a big deal.


as for centering... they should self center around the hub flange.
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      09-29-2013, 02:32 AM   #3
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Read it as blowjob.
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      09-29-2013, 02:50 AM   #4
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As Avocet said rotor direction should cause too much trouble for daily driving.

As for the Caliper you need to change. yes you want to clamp the line so that you dont get a bunch of air in the line. Will save you time for when you have to bleed them.
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      09-29-2013, 09:31 AM   #5
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The slot direction really doesn't matter, what does matter is the internal cooling veins and if they are curved to scoop air when the rotor spins, then having them on backwards will significantly impact cooling if running them backwards - if they are straight veins then it won't matter. My guess is they are labelled left and right because of the cooling veins, not because of the slots cut into the surface.
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      09-29-2013, 09:45 AM   #6
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Thanks guys - these are the cheap ones. Internal cooling veins are straight.
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      09-29-2013, 10:06 AM   #7
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Sorry duped my post when the database was down, if the veins are straight then you should be fine - slots seem to be manufacturer preference, some go one way others go the other way.
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      09-29-2013, 12:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadmn1337 View Post
As Avocet said rotor direction should cause too much trouble for daily driving.

As for the Caliper you need to change. yes you want to clamp the line so that you dont get a bunch of air in the line. Will save you time for when you have to bleed them.
Anyone have a good method for clamping the lines? I tried and crushed it - gotta wait until tomorrow to get a replacement.
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      09-29-2013, 01:14 PM   #9
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Please take no offense, but are you sure you should be doing this work? We are talking about the brake system here, which is critical to your safety and those who share the road with you. It's commendable that you want to tackle the job, but I suggest you get someone to help you who has experience in work on cars and doing brake jobs.

I would put the rotors on the correct side of the car, the manufacturer marked them for a reason. They make a tool called a brake line clamp(there are many verities) that clamp the rubber hose from the body to brake caliper.
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      09-29-2013, 01:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Please take no offense, but are you sure you should be doing this work? We are talking about the brake system here, which is critical to your safety and those who share the road with you. It's commendable that you want to tackle the job, but I suggest you get someone to help you who has experience in work on cars and doing brake jobs.

I would put the rotors on the correct side of the car, the manufacturer marked them for a reason. They make a tool called a brake line clamp(there are many verities) that clamp the rubber hose from the body to brake caliper.
ironically, brakes are damn near the easiest DIY job possible on a car. It takes like an hour to do brakes all around.
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      09-29-2013, 02:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Please take no offense, but are you sure you should be doing this work? We are talking about the brake system here, which is critical to your safety and those who share the road with you. It's commendable that you want to tackle the job, but I suggest you get someone to help you who has experience in work on cars and doing brake jobs.

I would put the rotors on the correct side of the car, the manufacturer marked them for a reason. They make a tool called a brake line clamp(there are many verities) that clamp the rubber hose from the body to brake caliper.
No, I should not be doing this work. But I secretly hate my family.
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      09-29-2013, 08:57 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edrive90 View Post
No, I should not be doing this work. But I secretly hate my family.
Okay, make a joke, but you're the one who's put the rotors on the wrong side and crushed a brake line to the point that you need to replace it...
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      09-29-2013, 09:09 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Okay, make a joke, but you're the one who's put the rotors on the wrong side and crushed a brake line to the point that you need to replace it...
The best way to learn is by doing.

When my 335i were newer, it would randomly shut off unexpectedly, with no warning. I never had any problem having no steering and braking in heavy rush hour traffic, so I doubt the OP is going to cause harm to anyone....my .02
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      09-29-2013, 09:15 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John 070 View Post
The best way to learn is by doing.

When my 335i were newer, it would randomly shut off unexpectedly, with no warning. I never had any problem having no steering and braking in heavy rush hour traffic, so I doubt the OP is going to cause harm to anyone....my .02
I agree, but being tutored is not a bad thing, especially when it comes to the brake system.

And OP, an Easyout should be able to easily remove the broken bleed valve for you.
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      09-30-2013, 01:01 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
I agree, but being tutored is not a bad thing, especially when it comes to the brake system.

And OP, an Easyout should be able to easily remove the broken bleed valve for you.
Thanks, that's excellent advice considering I've replaced the caliper.

Will an Easyout help me easily remove you from this thread?
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      09-30-2013, 01:38 AM   #16
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The easyout may have saved you the trouble of replacing the caliper.

But it seems you've already done the work.

An set of easyouts is a good tool to have available if you're going to be doing your own work. A set of reverse drill bits is also useful.
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      09-30-2013, 01:38 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edrive90 View Post
Anyone have a good method for clamping the lines? I tried and crushed it - gotta wait until tomorrow to get a replacement.
Don't clamp brake lines, you are not going to save any time and you will damage the hose.
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      09-30-2013, 08:45 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minifridge1138 View Post
The easyout may have saved you the trouble of replacing the caliper.

But it seems you've already done the work.

An set of easyouts is a good tool to have available if you're going to be doing your own work. A set of reverse drill bits is also useful.
Thanks - I've got all the tools and done many taps but with 120k miles I just figured replacement was the way to go.

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Cleaner View Post
Don't clamp brake lines, you are not going to save any time and you will damage the hose.
Thanks - definitely learned the lesson on that one. Having never removed a caliper I was worried about catastrophic loss of fluid, but now I know that is not the case - it only drips. Clamping seems like a very bad idea. The only conceivable reason to do so is to cheap out on the bleed. Anyone replacing a caliper should be doing a full bleed anyway.
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Last edited by NGEE; 09-30-2013 at 09:03 AM.
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      09-30-2013, 08:53 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edrive90 View Post
Thanks - I've got all the tools and done many taps but with 120k miles I just figured replacement was the way to go.
Personally, I hate replacement parts because you never quite know what you're getting, so I prefer to keep OEM if not faulty. On my 1998 Nissan, the fronts (calipers) are original, and the rears have been replaced by me 2X on one side, 3X on the other. Lifetime warranty is one thing, but having to do the work over and over is another...quality is never the same imho.....fluid for the most part flushed every 2
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      09-30-2013, 09:06 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John 070 View Post
Personally, I hate replacement parts because you never quite know what you're getting, so I prefer to keep OEM if not faulty. On my 1998 Nissan, the fronts (calipers) are original, and the rears have been replaced by me 2X on one side, 3X on the other. Lifetime warranty is one thing, but having to do the work over and over is another...quality is never the same imho.....fluid for the most part flushed every 2
I always go OEM on non-maintenance parts. So I'll buy Hawk brake pads for example, but if I'm buying a caliper or a water pump, etc., I only buy OEM.
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      09-30-2013, 09:21 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edrive90 View Post
I always go OEM on non-maintenance parts. So I'll buy Hawk brake pads for example, but if I'm buying a caliper or a water pump, etc., I only buy OEM.
I'm not sure about BMW because I haven't gotten there yet (replacing original parts)....when I did the plugs I used Bosch because it seemed everyone said they are the same, just $4 cheaper ea. and green instead of blue....

But with Nissan, OEM is not up to snuff in that it is NOT what came with the car. Maybe mine is an exception since back in 1998 they were made in Japan. My first go round with brake parts were OEM, all made in USA. The rotor was clearly not the same as what came off the car, and the other problem is they have OEM equivalent, and "value line," which the dealer might be inclined to do a switcharoo.....
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