[Tambohamilton]

I didn't; I did that and the centre bearing together another time. I didn't need to unbolt the diff or anything to get the driveshaft out.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

I didn't; I did that and the centre bearing together another time. I didn't need to unbolt the diff or anything to get the driveshaft out.

OK. Thanks.

Another question: is it possible to remove the rear subframe without disconnecting the exhaust at the downpipe flange? That is, just leave the exhaust angled down off its mounts and guide the subframe on a jack out of the rear?
My front exhaust flanges are rusty, so hoping to avoid that battle, but don't want to cause unwanted strain there and end up with broken flanges either.

[Tambohamilton]

That's what I did, but maybe the 330d exhaust is very different from yours...

[eljay]

Very slow progress.
I disconnected the driveshaft and moved to disconnect stuff at the hubs.
First the parking brake cable. I managed to unclip the cable end, but the cable housing will not slide out of the knuckle. It's aluminum end fused to the steel hub. Lovely.
I think I may have to replace the cables! That means thecentre console has to come out. Not a hard job, but that's another day.
This is getting crazy and I'm nowhere near even at the half way point of this whole refresh.

[Tambohamilton]

It's always fun!

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

It's always fun!

With an emphasis on the first two letters!!

[nsjames]

Originally Posted by eljay

Very slow progress.
I disconnected the driveshaft and moved to disconnect stuff at the hubs.
First the parking brake cable. I managed to unclip the cable end, but the cable housing will not slide out of the knuckle. It's aluminum end fused to the steel hub. Lovely.
I think I may have to replace the cables! That means thecentre console has to come out. Not a hard job, but that's another day.
This is getting crazy and I'm nowhere near even at the half way point of this whole refresh.

clamp vice grip on the end, whack it with hammer to twist, remove cable.

heats out because you'll destroy the cable.

I assume you've reached in through the drum and released the little tab that holds it in.

[eljay]

Originally Posted by nsjames

clamp vice grip on the end, whack it with hammer to twist, remove cable.

heats out because you'll destroy the cable.

I assume you've reached in through the drum and released the little tab that holds it in.

Yep. I have tried vice grips, but the aluminum housing keeps crumbling under them. I think I will crack it at the next attempt. Well, might as well try and if it breaks, then, replacement it is. Even if I manage to get it out, I wonder how mangled/re-usable it will be.

BTW the bolt that holds the cable bracket to the spindle...yeah, it snapped in the spindle on both sides. There was plenty of penetrating oil and scraping off rust around etc. No heat as you said.
I am getting replacement spindles, so not so worried about that as much.

[eljay]

OK, some successful progress last night.
I got the brake cables out of the spindles. However, I'm not sure they are reusable, as the soft plastic is a bit mangled, but it may still work in the replacement spindles. We'll see.

Here is a quick procedure with an awesome tip from 3PedalJake that worked like a charm in removing the cables from the spindle:
1. Remove parking brake shoes
2. release cable end from shoe expander
3. Slide a long 7mm (1/4" drive) socket onto the cable end. It fits it perfectly!
4. Whack the socket and the cable will pop out the other side!

Before picture:


...and pics of the cable ends that I need to decide whether to keep. New cables are US$30 each.

[eljay]

Some other good news!
I managed to find a clean rear subframe with 20k miles on it from a 2011 car! Yay!
It comes with all control arms and bushings. If I didn't already buy all the new control arms and bushings, I would probably just use what's on the replacement subframe. But since I have new ones, I think I will still replace all the bushings on it. May be an overkill, but despite the low mileage that rubber has been in there for 10 years, so it's probably not the freshest. I will keep the main subframe bushings though and just use the Whiteline inserts in them.

I am still hunting for a low mileage diff to complete the rear end package.

Next up: remove the rear brake hardlines. I'm not looking forward to that at all! So far, my 11mm flare nut wrench already rounded one nut even though that's been soaking in penetrating oil for days.

[nsjames]

if the cables still operate smoothly clean that end up with a wire brush and re use it.

good luck with hardlines.

[Tambohamilton]

I'd definitely do the main subframe bushings while it's out. Even if you just go for OE M3 items. I guess that's more £$¥ though...

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

I'd definitely do the main subframe bushings while it's out. Even if you just go for OE M3 items. I guess that's more £$¥ though...

I'd love to, but that's US$220 for the four M3 bushings and about $100 for the OEM and they are backordered at FCP and RockAuto.

All the sudden that new factory subframe that comes with new bushings does not look that expensive!

Yeah, I'll look aroubd for options, but gotta draw the line somewhere.

[Tambohamilton]

Totally understand that. I hope you find something!

[eljay]

What's would be the difference in feel between OEM M3 bushings versus OEM 328xi bushings + Whiteline Inserts?

New regular bushings are $80 and I already have the Whiteline kit for them (which is $50), so $130 total vs $220 for M3 bushings. So, I think I'll stick with new regular bushings.

[Tambohamilton]

If you're going to use inserts, I'm not sure it's worth replacing the bushings at all. I could be wrong there.

All I've heard from folk with inserts is that they're fine, but they wish they'd just gone all-in from the start...which M3 bushings admittedly aren't, compared with solid aluminium or delrin etc.

Totally understand your reason for sticking with the stock + inserts though!

[eljay]

A bit of an update on this VERY slow process.
I fought with seized wheel liner bolts for a couple of hours trying to save the wheel liner. I sort-of succeeded, but man was that frustrating!! Two freakin' bolts. Yes, I used dremel cut-off wheel, but had to do it gently and the action fused the bolt to the washer, so not much help. Drill didn't work either and you gotta be careful grinding around the liner and plastic.


In other news:
The old one is out! Anyone need a subframe and rear diff?


Honestly, it's not as bad as I thought. But in the end, I'm glad I took it out, so I can clean and treat the rear body and the brake lines were really needing to be replaced.
I guess you can that I umm... "disconnected" the brake lines:


And new subframe was delivered today!


It looks so clean that if I didn't already buy all the bushings and new control arms, I would've probably just installed it as is. But since I have new parts, I will suffer replacing all the bushings.

[The Nightman]

How do you plan on removing the subframe bushings?

[eljay]

Originally Posted by Guy Fieri

How do you plan on removing the subframe bushings?

Willpower and magic!

But if that fails, I'll just use my hydraulic press while supporting the subframe on a transmission jack.

[eljay]

Still working away at it... didn't drive the car all summer. I miss it.
Almost there, almost there.

[eljay]

OOOKKK everybody...
I owe this community a big update.
While I was chipping away at the refresh, I did record a few videos along the way that may help some as I tried to summarize my research prior to the various steps.
These are not necessarily complete how-to videos, but more pointers and tips I wish I had before I started.

Stay tuned for upcoming post with links.

I am also gathering pictures from the above shenanigans and will update everything I've replaced on the car... which was pretty much most of the stuff under the car.

[tlow98]

Originally Posted by eljay

OOOKKK everybody...
I owe this community a big update.
While I was chipping away at the refresh, I did record a few videos along the way that may help some as I tried to summarize my research prior to the various steps.
These are not necessarily complete how-to videos, but more pointers and tips I wish I had before I started.

Stay tuned for upcoming post with links.

I am also gathering pictures from the above shenanigans and will update everything I've replaced on the car... which was pretty much most of the stuff under the car.

Nice. Can’t wait!