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[louie_perm]

If so, in what way?

Also, what is considered "light"? Anything under 25lbs., for example? I've heard that my OE 159's weigh in the low 30's, but I haven't been able to verify that.

Is there a point where you have to start worrying about wheel durability or flexing? I see some wheels that claim as low as 17lbs. Most of these are branded "racing" one way or another.

I've also seen some wheels--Breytons, I believe--that claim around 20lbs. and are cast. Is that asking for trouble?

Or, should I just make sure the wheels are TUV (sp?) certified and not worry about it?

I drive around in the DC metro area with plenty of buckled asphalt, recessed manholes, and various potholes and road construction. Light wheels make sense to me, but I'm torn between dropping $3K-$4K on a set of 20lb. forged wheels, or staying closer to $1K for a set of 25lb. cast wheels. I plan to keep the car for a while--usually 8-10 years, as I drive less than 10K per year. My '01 Pathfinder has 44K miles on it, for an extreme example.

[Malek@MRF]

Lighter wheels make your car ride better and more responsive.

If the wheels are poorly made, you would have to worry about durability.

[spacedogg]

Originally Posted by Malekreza11

Lighter wheels make your car ride better and more responsive.

If the wheels are poorly made, you would have to worry about durability.

Good quick answers. I'll add a few more thoughts.

Lighter wheels = less unsprung weight. Do a Google search for "unsprung weight" and you should find some good material explaining what it is and why you want less of it. Basically less unsprung weight will give you better acceleration, braking, handling, gas mileage, etc.

I've heard that 1 lb of unsprung weight is equivalent of 3 lbs of weight on the car. So let's say you get lighter rims. And each rim is about 10lbs less than stock. That means you are knocking off about 40lbs of unsprung weight. This is equivalent of lightening your car by about 120lbs. That doesn't sound like much...but hey...it all adds up. You can see how it might be really beneficial for smaller cars and race situations.

[LOLrance]

Your choice in tires affect your ride quality more so then the weight of your wheels.

[John 070]

I have to wonder about economical lightweight rims.....I got 2-pc rims for my Nissan only $119 ea. One of them bent just like that on the highway. My $79 ASA's for my snows are only 21.5 lbs. So far, so good......hit one pothole....(although I wonder if these rims get damaged even if the lip isn't bent, have yet another set of 18's and no physical signs of damage and it shakes like a (*&()*&()& even with rebalance).

Overall, probably lighter weight is the best bet--heavy doesn't mean more durable either.

[TSM330i]

I have lightweight wheels and there is a great difference in the way the car handles the lack of rotational mass as well and the unsprung weight. You can actually feel that the car has an "easier" time accelerating and deccelerating. The car feels more nimble as well.

That being said, as for durability - if I were you I'd stick with 18" and go with a 40 series tire. I know the roads are similar in DC as they are in PA.

Also, to answer your question about durability - many of the high performance wheels have a superior manufacturing process to their casting - like spun cast. This allows for a more even distribution of aluminum and a better product than just standard cast wheels. I wouldn't go forged if I were you for everyday street driving. They just cost too much and you'll need to have two different locks on them to keep them from getting stolen

Check out Enkei RPF1, TR Motorsports TR1, Advans and OZ for good cast wheels.

[JoosyJoos]

Aren't TR Motorsports TR1's manufactured by Enkei?

Btw how are you're Advan RS'... those are my dream rims but I'm too afraid I'd curb rash them or do something equally as stupid.

[louie_perm]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm definitely going with 18" wheels and either 225/40R18 or 235/40R18 all around, which is part of my problem--there isn't as much to choose from in 18".

The top contender currently is BMW's Style 193 "Spider Spoke." I think it's an M-Sport wheel, and it weighs in at a reported 24.7 lbs. (18x8). The Ultraleggeras are another possibility, though the offset would require 6-8mm of spacers.

[VMRWheels]

Our 18x8.5" VMR VB3's are 23.5lbs each.

I would recommend 235/40/18 all around for a nice fitment if you plan on rotating.

-Charles@VMRWheels

[louie_perm]

Yes, I like your VB3's and haven't ruled them out. I was kinda looking for non-CSL possibilities. I like your 710's and 713's better, but I don't want to go 19". I could end up with the VB3's, however. They are a great deal, for sure.

[TSM330i]

Originally Posted by JoosyJoos

Aren't TR Motorsports TR1's manufactured by Enkei?

Btw how are you're Advan RS'... those are my dream rims but I'm too afraid I'd curb rash them or do something equally as stupid.

Sorry it took me so long - yes, one curb shot on the Advan RS will completely destroy the rim. The rim is really concaved and the spokes stick out beyond the rim bead.

[John 070]

I thought 225/40-18 is the correct size for all around? At least that's what I did for my snows. Seems like 235/40 will be taller than stock.

Anyway, like I said, the one puzzlement I've had in aftermarket rims is having a set of 18's shake violently on the car (Nissan), despite no visible damage and 2 rebalances. Seems like hitting a curb can do "invisible" damage? Or, maybe it's the tire, but I just wasn't about to buy a new tire to replace one that was only 1/2 shot to experiment with a 3rd rebalance....just got new rims ($118 wasn't the end of the world though it was a tough pill to swallow)

[louie_perm]

225/40R18 all around is fine, but 235/40R18, 245/35R18, and 255/35R18 are also fine all around, as long as the offsets and wheel widths are correct. It doesn't matter that the 235/40R18's are slightly taller than stock, nor does it matter that the 245/35R18 is slightly shorter than stock. They all fit--if on the appropriate wheel.

Once you get to 265/35R18, you may have a problem in the front, because the 265's won't fit on an 8.5" wheel, and a 9" wheel may require some fender mods. Having said that, Dinan's wheel set consists of 4 identical 19"x9" wheels, and they run 265's on the front sometimes. I don't know what modifications they require, however.

[Gary@TireRack]

Originally Posted by spacedogg

You can see how it might be really beneficial for smaller cars and race situations.

This last statement is especially important and often overlooked.

Low torque, lightweight cars driven in autocrossing or race vehicles will get the most benefit. I've driven a large variety of wheel/tire setups on our E46, E90 and E92 test cars and found very little difference from 10lbs of unsprung weight.

[crqflier]

Originally Posted by Gary@TireRack

This last statement is especially important and often overlooked.

Low torque, lightweight cars driven in autocrossing or race vehicles will get the most benefit. I've driven a large variety of wheel/tire setups on our E46, E90 and E92 test cars and found very little difference from 10lbs of unsprung weight.

10 lbs per wheel/tire or 10 lbs overall? If you're saying 10/wheel, I'm gonna have to say no freakin' way. The single biggest pickup in road feel, responsiveness, and ride quality has been ditching OEM cast wheels for forged BBS on both my e36 M3 and my current e90 335i. In fact, I'd probably say this makes a bigger difference in overall daily satisfaction than the suspension mods that have followed.

[BlueLion]

Originally Posted by AW325xi

Sorry it took me so long - yes, one curb shot on the Advan RS will completely destroy the rim. The rim is really concaved and the spokes stick out beyond the rim bead.

pls...dont remind me

[motuman]

Originally Posted by Gary@TireRack

This last statement is especially important and often overlooked.

Low torque, lightweight cars driven in autocrossing or race vehicles will get the most benefit. I've driven a large variety of wheel/tire setups on our E46, E90 and E92 test cars and found very little difference from 10lbs of unsprung weight.

re-opening the thread......

Do you mean 10lbs per wheel?
Or 10 pounds total for 4 wheels and tires?

[Meeni]

Originally Posted by John 070

I have to wonder about economical lightweight rims.....I got 2-pc rims for my Nissan only $119 ea. One of them bent just like that on the highway. My $79 ASA's for my snows are only 21.5 lbs. So far, so good......hit one pothole....(although I wonder if these rims get damaged even if the lip isn't bent, have yet another set of 18's and no physical signs of damage and it shakes like a (*&()*&()& even with rebalance).

Overall, probably lighter weight is the best bet--heavy doesn't mean more durable either.

I've seen a set of ASA on a car parked on the street, they were bent beyond anything you would ever see from an OEM wheel. Sobering sight for whomever toyed the idea of cheap wheels.

[Marks_Lisnanskis]

I’ve replaced the factory wheels with a set of very light forged aftermarket wheels made of special strong aviation-grade alloy (by SMW), and I am very pleased with the resulting performance. I saved over 35% as compared with the original cast wheels – and I really feel the difference, especially at cornering. I also noticed that the gas mileage did improve somewhat (though not more than 5% - 8%). So this investment payback will be within a couple of more years, in addition to the enjoyment of better handling.

[streetpro]

I run OZ Ultraleggera 8+9x18 et40 235/265 tires and it is notable right away once changing to the winter set up (8x17 et34 225/45 all around) despite of more rubber (weight).
If I could get a set of light 8x17 I would definitely get them too.

[MILLER335I]

Don't forget tire pressure! That will effect ride quality and road feel as well.