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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum
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Central heating - thermostat and trvs
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11-05-2012, 06:01 PM | #1 |
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Central heating - thermostat and trvs
I've noticed nearly every trv in my house making a very annoying whistling noise now. Some louder than others. I'm pretty sure some are out of calibration too. Can anyone recommend reliable ones? I need about 20 so preferably not top whack ones. I noticed the heads unscrew, do you replace just the heads or the entire valve?
Also I would like to get a better digital programmable thermostat. I run our heating 24/7 so having it adjust the temp down from 20 to 15 overnight and some afternoons is very handy. Problem is our current one is crap, letting the temp drop too far then blasting it up and over the set temp. I would rather just have it top up. Anyone have any recommendations? Thanks |
11-06-2012, 01:59 AM | #2 |
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TRV - Drayton TRV4
Programmer - Honeywell CM907 or CM927 (wireless.)
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11-06-2012, 03:11 AM | #3 |
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Still going strong mate, almost 2 years on
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11-06-2012, 03:30 AM | #4 |
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Mine still fine also
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11-06-2012, 10:19 AM | #5 |
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Thanks Will
Might need a new boiler at this rate, just late last night i noticed the bloody thing didnt fire up but the pump was running. Same this morning. A bang to the side and the thing sprung into life. Will see how it goes now and get this new programmer. If i decide to buy all new valves can you get just the heads or do i need to change the entire thing with system drain down? |
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11-06-2012, 12:56 PM | #6 | |
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Got my T5 btw...
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11-06-2012, 01:19 PM | #7 | |
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Wireless controls are great but they do eat through a few batteries. I'd drain the system TBH, add some inhibitor when you re-fill though. Am an engineer for British Gas
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11-07-2012, 12:49 PM | #8 | |
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Are there TRVs on all the radiators? Oil heating mate, so how's the van, whats the economy like?
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11-07-2012, 05:45 PM | #9 |
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Trvs on all but the hall, lounge and kitchen
As long as I don't have to cut pipes I can handle a full valve change. Couple and spanners and some ptfe tape. Might help as I have air in the system despite bleeding the furthest rad and pump. Think it's playing havoc with my boiler and the auto air vent ain't helping. I still hear trickling water from the boiler. Just realised the bloody thing sometimes stops and cycles, hopefully due to air lock. |
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11-08-2012, 01:15 AM | #11 | |
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Is it an open vented or sealed system?
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11-08-2012, 03:29 AM | #12 |
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+1 for the Honeywell 907 / 927's... I put a 907 in my last place and it made a BIG difference to the comfort levels of the house and the heating bills!
For my new place, I've just ordered a couple of Heatmiser touchscreen thermostats (one for each heating zone), they can also be controlled via wifi / internet from my iPhone http://www.heatmisershop.co.uk/therm...hw-ts-wifi-p99 |
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11-08-2012, 03:35 AM | #13 |
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Pelger terrier 2's Will - I hear they are shit
They do appear to be working but whistle when they begin to close it seems It's a sealed/unvented system too - but I think there is air in there as boiler water makes trickling noise Thanks |
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11-08-2012, 05:22 PM | #14 |
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11-09-2012, 01:32 AM | #15 |
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I'm finding the drivers seat a tad uncomfy, but that's because my back is fooked.
Aside from that the van is ace, never had so many wanting looks, from blokes obviously (because secretly we all want to be in the A team.) I have put a motexion bulkhead in and carry around 800kg of tools and parts, and put the 19"s on now. But i still get 600 miles to the tank, which was £105 last fill. Computer shows 35mpg over long distances, mostly set cruise at 70. On single track "back country" roads it generally shows 37-40 mpg. Don't suppose it's that great, might go for DSG caddy next time, what does yours do mpg wise? Sorry for being OT. Back on topic, i've been buying heatmiser stuff for years, it's very good, them wireless enabled stats are said to be the nuts. However if your an apple fan you could wait for the "nest", do a search, already available in the US, set for UK sale (i believe in apple shops) soon. You can also get a range of battery operated thermostatic valve heads, that open and close dependant on a battery operated stat in that room, the boiler only fires when at least one room asks for heat. These are available from one of my suppliers, however it'll be a little more pricey and complicated obviously.
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11-09-2012, 02:52 AM | #16 | |
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Sorry to hijack the thread |
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11-09-2012, 03:06 AM | #17 | |
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11-09-2012, 03:51 AM | #19 |
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Most boilers new or old will utilize a switched live for a heating demand. Weather its a combi or system boiler. All that you have to do is wire in the wireless receiver where the clock is connected. Check first though as some are volt free so the wiring would need slightly altered.
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11-09-2012, 03:57 AM | #20 | |
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11-09-2012, 04:18 AM | #21 |
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I need a way of timing the use of our immersion heater. It's just a switch at the moment. Any recommendation?
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11-09-2012, 04:40 AM | #22 | |
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I think the whistling could be a mixture of poor quality terrier 2's and the pump speed on 3. I'm just testing the pump on 2 at the mo, first day today as that could be causing the whistling and the air in the system as the water hits the impeller. To top it off i think my flow and return pipes are connected the wrong way round on the boiler. As the temperature monitoring is attached to the return pipe by design (which is my flow pipe) this could be causing some of the short cycling. Yes the noise does go when i adjust the valves. Bloody things wake me up in the morning, only option is to open them higher so they close a lot later. |
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